Waltermitty

This statement by Randy is the money quote. I would buy a plastic cylinder stop and replace it every 500 rounds (like a shock buffer) if it would stop the notch peening. I was also considering a suggestion from Bubber that I buy a blue cylinder. I think it is a valid hypothesis that the steel could be tougher, get it set up then have it hard chromed for wear. Then I became infatuated with the notion of the Ti experiment.... I'll try to get some super closeups of my Ti cylinder with ~2500 miles of abuse...er...um...use.

Just to clarify my post above, Spook, I do not have a Ti cylinder in my 625, mine is the standard stainless stock part. You make a good point though, maybe this issue wouldn't be as likely with a Ti cylinder because the stop wouldn't get slammed so hard when the wheel comes around. I guess my initial thought was that the stop might wear faster with a Ti cylinder because the cylinder was quite a bit harder. Hmmmmm......wonder if both could be true......making it a wash? Randy? Waltermitty? The newer MIM cylinder stops are pretty much drop-in, from what I've seen. The older ones usually can stand a little fitting work to make them function properly and smoothly. I told you guys you needed to give me a couple of seasons to completely test out the Ti cylinder concept; at least until after Nationals anyway. Yeah, I went through MIM stops a little slower than I went through primers, but I definately learned to carry an extra right away. The first stop went 1.5 years, the next one went 6 months, the third went about three months and the 4th went in between stages at a match in OKC. At that point I decided to replace the cylinder. I don't have nearly the miles on the Ti(s) that Randy has. So I just don't know what the limits will be. So today I'm carrying two guns in my bag and an extra cylinder stop just in case. I'll let you take a look at them next time I see you. Are you coming to the ICORE Regional in Arkansas?

Yeah, before the class he couldn't even SPELL CRO, now he R one! Seriously, the class will help your game even if you don't work much. (I'm sure they'd let you RO a squad HOP if you showed up...) +1 on shooting with Mike, BTW he's a LEFTY! For all you Southpaws using "right handed" revolver ergonomics as an excuse for not shooting revo, come watch Mike win the match.

ROTFLMFAO!!!!!! ROTFLMFAO!!!!!! Oh! And Thanks!!

I'm all signed up and have received confirmation. They're using online squadding this year. Should I get on and get a revolver Supersquad started? Last year it seems like there were 5 of us(?).

"Can't Remember...um...something starting with "O"" [what was I talking about?]

Congrats, and welcome.

...while observing the 180....

SSGT Reeves. Thank you very much. May I drop and give you 20?

I'm going!

Brother Mike, Can you share what you run your trigger pull to in pounds of force?

You'd have to get the side plate off and see what's happening in the mechanism. If you've lowered return spring force (by cutting coils or swapping springs) the hammer main spring pressure may be too high to allow a reset. I did have the end of a cylinder lock spring break off one time and give return problems. That one was hard to figure out because it made the lock hard to reset. I have the DVD. It does not address the keylock.

You should send it here: http://www.thisisbroken.com/

[wispering] Sorry, I meant the offer to buy to go to SpeedStick.

I put it in the urban myth category. The 625 will fire rounds without a moon, but they are slow to extract because they won't engage the ejector star. I haven't heard of using magazines being a big problem with the auto shooters, and frankly, if you're having memory problems to the degree that it would be a major issue, you'd probably still find yourself at the range with out eye/ear protection, a holster, targets, staple gun, etc, sooooooo.......... What you do is buy 100 moon clips from Ranch Products for $25.00 and moon up your ammo before you leave the house. I moon up entire matches before I load the truck. Keep in mind, if you shoot IPSC under current rules you must reload after every 6 shots. So you can shoot a 7 or 8 shot gun in revolver division, but the moment you lose track and pop that 7th primer you're in Open class. How many IPSC shooters here can count to 6? BANGBANGBANGBANGBANGBANG*click*

I'm coming up on ~2000 .45ACP Starline 230/185 lead/Berry's plated through mine ranging from 125pf ICORE loads to ~175 IPSC loads. I'm not seeing any sticking. I turned a sub 7 second El Presidente at my last match. My reloads don't seem to be my limitation. I shoot too slow and yank the sights off the "A" zone. Of course, if I were you I'd put that SS cylinder back in. I'll give you $50.00 for that old used Ti cylinder. I'll even pay shipping.

Wish I could,Bubber. Randy is shipping my 627 this week and I'd like to use it with ya. Gracious! you spell like an Okie! I will absolutely be at the ICORE Midwest Regional Championship (who knew they had one???). I'll also try to get our club application in the mail this year for the OKCGC ICORE affiliation. We'll be running a classifier match in January whether the range burns or not so make plans to do the Old Fort Revo match on January 15th, the OKC 3 gun on January 21st, then the OKC ICORE Classifier match January 28th. If we don't burn up or freeze we'll have another OKC ICORE match February 25th that will probably be the Australian Postal match. Then we'll go shoot the MWC the very next Saturday, March 4th. The Doubletap Championship is March 24th, 25th and 26th and that gets you through the winter. Come on out and reload alot to stay warm!! BTW Bubber, which way is SouthWest Oklahoma??? Dern Waltermitty, I cain"t always tell which way I'ma goin, I jes know it's either thisaway or that away an ifin I shows up I went tha rat way. Sry Are you gonna post this over in the match area too?

Wish I could,Bubber. Randy is shipping my 627 this week and I'd like to use it with ya. Gracious! you spell like an Okie! I will absolutely be at the ICORE Midwest Regional Championship (who knew they had one???). I'll also try to get our club application in the mail this year for the OKCGC ICORE affiliation. We'll be running a classifier match in January whether the range burns or not so make plans to do the Old Fort Revo match on January 15th, the OKC 3 gun on January 21st, then the OKC ICORE Classifier match January 28th. If we don't burn up or freeze we'll have another OKC ICORE match February 25th that will probably be the Australian Postal match. Then we'll go shoot the MWC the very next Saturday, March 4th. The Doubletap Championship is March 24th, 25th and 26th and that gets you through the winter. Come on out and reload alot to stay warm!! BTW Bubber, which way is SouthWest Oklahoma???

I stumbled up to a match one day in late '97 and asked the assembled group (some motley, some fair) if I could play with them. I had seen some fellows on the cable TV running around and shooting stuff and one of the locals had sent me there because they were known to play said "ipsick" game on that day/time. They asked me what I had to shoot so I showed them the S&W 6906 and two hi-cap (12 round) mags I had. I had an Uncle Mike's holster of some sort that would come off with the gun when I drew it. They told me I was limited but I didn't say anything back because I was new. I suppose if I had shown up with a cap and ball revolver or an RPG I would have played wherever they put me until I figured out the rules. Today I am a Revolver fanatic, but I've gone through my Glock period, Limited, and Open classifications. I don't have an L10 or Production card, but I can see where they would entice certain groups. I am also enthusiastic about three gun. What will the future hold? I don't know, but I'll be there as long as I'm able.

Yep, if Federal ever goes out of the primer business we're in deep kimchi.

I'm in the process of building a back up gun to my old main gun. So I've thought about the same things. Of course, you're not going to get anywhere if you aren't reloading your own ammo with Federal primers, so I'll make that assume and move on. In my view, the biggest change for the money comes from a new spring set. For less than $20.00 you can get a name-brand reduced power set that will drop right in and function. Now, some of the grey beards here cut and bend their factory springs so they don't even spend that much, but I'm the kind of guy that wanted to keep my old factory set up nearby (in case I made a mistake) so I could put it back and have a working gun. Of course, after you get a little farther along you'll want to reduce power even farther. Then you'll have something extra to cut and bend. I had S&W do a chamfer job on a replacement cylinder they installed for me. While it seems to be a popular mod I am underwhelmed by the cost/benefit. I use Starline brass in Ranch Moons for a "loose" clip fit. With a good crimp I don't see much difference in a chamfered cylinder. I'll address this again later... I'm a big fan of the "fiber optic" front sight and white outline rear. The front sight is less than $30.00 and I think the W.O. rear sight kit to fit your Smith is something like $12.00. I'm using Jerry's grip (does that make me one of "Jerry's Kids"?) and as you progress I think that getting a grip that's right for you is very important. We're getting up into the $70.00 range, so if you can try before you buy I would advise it. Some folks *really* don't like Jerry's grip, see if you can find out if you're one of them before you shell out the cash. Good advice has been given about getting a trigger job. But as Jerry puts it (on his trigger job DVD no less) all a trigger job is, is putting several thousand rounds of wear on a new gun so you don't have to break it in. IMHO the spring kit will give you 80% of a typical trigger job (not a Randy Lee job of course!) the rest you can get in your first year of shooting. In closing I will break down and recommend one last (and most expensive) modification; I think the Ti cylinder from the 325PD is the Mack Daddy in the 625. It will cost you close to $150.00 to buy and it will have to be fitted to the gun. It weighs *much* less than the stock part and greatly reduces rotating forces (both from rest and while in motion). It also looks to me like it is made with proper chamfers built in. There, I said it. The other stuff that comes next begins to cross out of the "plug and play" category and into the "black arts" of modifications. Maybe when you've dropped in some of the doo-dads above and had some success you'll be inspired to start carving chunks off of your hammer or radically altering your lockup. In the meantime you've got some shooting to do.

So how would a person buy one of these trinkets? Here is his web site. http://www.apextactical.com/ Call him for the price, send him the cash, he sends the hammer. You fit the sear and play a little and you are off and running. Merry Christmas, I had seen the website, but couldn't figure out how to order. Thanks.

So how would a person buy one of these trinkets?

You think a trip to Barry Il in July qualifies as the "Family Trip" your wife wanted to take last year....

Man, I'd be there but the commute is just too far. Seriously, I used to live in Decatur and would be there, but.... We are trying to get a club formed up here in OKC. Do you ever make it out West?