Waltermitty

...I guess, my neighbour wouldn´t be very amused, if I´m going to try this... I hear that. My dream is to go buy me a place just outside the city limits where I can do what I want. I kinda like the Clark compound near Minden......

Wait a minute, you're gonna practice?!?!? That's like cheating you know! You're just supposed to show up on match day like the rest of us working stiffs and SEE WHAT HAPPENS!! I guess that's one benefit of living a mile South of Ankle Scratch Oklahoma, you can just step out the back door and pop a few practice rounds off. Just be sure to shoo the cows off the range first.

Yessiree! Follow the link below for directions and more info. http://ipsc.okcgunclub.org/ If it's your first trip please be sure to obey speed laws in Arcadia if coming in from the West and the same goes for Luther if coming in from the east... We'll be there about 7:30a for set up with registration at 9:30a and shooting about 10am.

Also posted under match announements. Come on out and give it a whirl.

Dust off that wheel gun and come play a game designed for you wheelgunners.

I'll be anxious to hear how you do. My "A" gun is showing some slop...

That's definately one of the Good News/Bad News points about the course. It's good that you know the rules better, the bad news is you somehow have to find a way to have the same amount of fun shooting at clubs that don't follow the rules.

While there are several good instructors out there, you will be hard pressed to find a better choice than Troy. Good luck in getting your course set up.

Come on out and enjoy our monthly match. The forecast may include a chance of rain, but living through the longest drought in history we don't get scared much; now if we smell smoke it may be a different matter. While I have shot a stage in the rain, I have never shot one on fire. (not that the place couldn't use a good burning off) We'll have some fun no matter what....

Yeah, I trashed two stages (4 mikes total) to earn my second place finish. I did win the last two stages but is wasn't enough to equal Bubber's *clean* match. I still got goals though. Did ya'll notice that Bubber is in the top 20 "B" class shooters on the USPSA website?!?! That almost makes me know someone famous.

Here's an off-the-wall opinion; I think Starline is the superior brass for moon clip guns. The web of the case is the smallest of the commercial brands I have measured. I prefer a small amount of movement in the moon. My reloads are consistently faster with Starline than any other brass, and since I don't lose it I don't mind the slightly higher price. Get an order of Starline send half off to be plated and then test it out to see if the nickle is actually helping. In either case you'll have excellent brass.

Punny, very punny.

The Ti has a special finish on it; chamfering will breal that. I haven't chamfered mine and I don't believe it needs it. The Ti cylinders look like they have a chamfer built in. Look at it before you buy a tool.

I don't know. I posted pictures of the cylinders in their current condition on page one of this thread. The "A" gun is the top gun with the most rounds through it. The "A" gun has ~25k+ rounds through it with about 2,500 through the Ti cylinder. The "B" gun is a new gun with ~1500 rounds through it with about 500 rounds through the Ti cylinder. So if it is as good as the SS it'll be about this time next year before I know it. At this point it's anybody's guess. But if you dig around in the very dry and boring discussions regarding Ti physical characteristics including tensile, elongation, and fatigue characteristics, there is potential for them to last a very long time. Factoring in the reduced weight, everything interacting with the rotating mass of the cylinder should last longer even under competition stresses including hands, stars, stops and frames. It's an interesting study for me anyway...

The inserts I saw were very small half moon shaped pieces inserted in the inpact zone of the notch. It looked like it could be very effective, but quite labor intensive. My guess is that a new cylinder would be cheaper.

If you are "upgrading" (gaming?) to a Ti cylinder, use your old star/extractor to make it easy. Then all you have to worry about is gap and play. Save the "new" star and your "old" cylinder for another day. But it's really premature for all of you to be changing those wonderful SS cylinders before some of us martyrs suffer the pain of technology development and risk. Really, I'm thinking of all of you.

That might be interesting with the Ti cylinders.... Certainly makes my ears perk up...

I'm not dissapointed at all! It sounds like you're taking a prudent path.

ok that was wrong. Ah the miracles of modern science in medicine.

You didn't include contact information in your post.

There's just some things I shouldn't have to see....

Bubber, I would have to say your controlled, almost delicate, operation of the trigger is a factor as well. (I'll have to watch closer to see if he holds his pinky out when shooting) Some of us are a bit more brutish. I'm confident my lack of finesse has contributed to my cylinder mortality in the past. I'm trying to learn that splits just don't matter very much in the overall scheme of things.

I've worked on several guns and then hard-chromed them. On either a revo or auto, I would definitely advise doing the action/trigger job first, then sent it off to be plated, understanding that you may need to do a little minor touch-up after it gets back. My hard-chromed guns have some of the best actions I own. Good luck! +1

Yep, it looks like a direct clone of the SS system.

Mike, You’re definitely thinking logically, but based on my trials and tribulations going through my first SS cylinder you are way more than half gone with your current cylinder, and spending money to hard-chrome it will be throwing good money at an unsalvageable part. There are two reasons I wouldn’t plate the SS piece. First, the main problem is the underlying strength of the SS substrate. Stainless steel (which by some definitions isn’t actually “Steel”) is a compromise. Market forces pushed the manufacturers to produce SS guns because the vast majority of us can’t (or don’t want to) properly care for steel guns. The first choice for high stress gun parts is a good carbon steel primarily due to its fundamental strength. So any rational chrome plating thickness (.0003” to .0005”) on your SS cylinder would not impart the functional toughness you desire. The only way to alter the underlying strength of the part with chrome would be to re-machine your cylinder for oversized dimensions, plate up to about .010” thickness, then re-machine again to spec so it would work. This of course would be prohibitively expensive with debatable outcomes. Secondly, the area where you want the chrome metal to go is problematic. Plating is one of the electro-deposition technologies where the substrate (your cylinder) is grounded (electrically) and the chrome (in a positively charged solution) is deposited on the part. Large flat areas are perfect for this (think large steel bumper face) however, recesses and notches are horrible (think of the back of the bumper and assorted nooks and crannies) due to the Faraday Cage Effect. The Tennessee elevation and Kentucky windage needed to get the part to come out properly would be huge. My motivation to consider the Chrome on carbon steel route was to get the strength of carbon steel with the rust and abrasion resistance imparted by a thin, although variable, layer of chrome. This is how I did my Limited guns in the past. I would buy a blue steel gun, get it tweaked and broken in good, and then send it off for hard chrome. The areas that were “thick” needed the protection and the “thin” areas were generally protected, lubed, and/or out of sight. The end product would have been a pretty attractive piece that should have a dramatically longer service life. Even in the very thin recess areas the rust and abrasion resistance would enhance the tough substrate. I would stick with the MIM cylinder stop to be the sacrificial component in the system and flog it like a rented mule. IMHO you’re living on borrowed time with your current cylinder. That was my experience anyway, and I found myself having to beg S&W to do a rush job on a cylinder replacement (which they f’ed up anyway) so I could make a Section Championship because I reached a point where a new cylinder stop wouldn’t make it through one long match. So, if it was me, I would go ahead and order my next cylinder and cylinder stop and replace them the next time it throws by (or sooner). Then the old parts can go in your spare parts bin for an emergency. Which gets you back to the question........ Here's a picture of the boys "A" & "B". (A is Above) About 2500 hard rounds through "A" probably 500 rounds through "B". "B" is also dirty from this weekends matches. more close ups, dirt probably is clearest marker I couldn't get the "B: picture to add to the post above....