Salsantini

It matches perfectly. I'll post a pick once I get a chance to put the cylinder back on the pistol.

My first pistol was a Nickle plated S&W Model 19.. It was purchased for me by my father over 35 years ago. He purchased it from a friend and the gun had some scratches on the cylinder. I kicked around the idea of having the cylinder re-plated but thought it would more than the cost of just replacing the pistol. I've had people say just sell it and get a new pistol. Well I can't do that. It is special to me because dad gave it to me and it is a reminder of him. Recently I decided to just have the cylinder refinished. The gun is a bright shiny nickel. I contacted a company called Mahovsky's Metalife located in Grand Valley PA. They said they would strip, re-plate, and polish the cylinder for $52.00 including the return shipping. I Just received the cylinder back today and I am very impressed. I wanted to give this company a shout out for a great job at a very reasonable price.

I have a EGW strong side safety that I like. Here is a link to the Amby. The strong side is the same width. https://www.egwguns.com/hd-ambi-thumb-safety-blue

Pics of the finished product.

Looks Like The Grand Canyon! Thanks for posting the pics.

Can you take a pic of this? Interested in how this looks.

Had Innovative Custom Guns make a custom Steyr AUG A2 Rail for my A3 rifle. Waiting for the rail to come back from Paint

I use an app on my phone called iSnipe. You can put in bullet weight, velocity, etc. and it will give you the drop. Very handy. http://www.isnipe.ca/

Have you had any feeding issues with the Mean Arms Endomag?

I thought about welding the part of the trigger bar that engages the striker block. Decided it is not to go that route. With the standard Apex sear the pistol no longer has light strikes. Trigger has a clean release. As MemphisMechanic stated is better to have a safe firearm with a good trigger.

I have an LWRC lower and think I would like to convert this to a 9mm AR. What mag blocks have you used?

Here is a pic on one of my SS guns. I like the SS color.

The Trigger was already at its most rearward position pressed up against the frame. At this point removing material from the sear won't make a difference. If the trigger allowed for more movement this would work. But short of taking material off of the trigger I don't see this as an option.

I have an two SVI pistols and pistols with the EGW safeties. Similar feel to both.

Here are two 1911's I had reworked by Innovative Custom Guns. Jim Milks does wonderful work on 1911 pistols. He is also a master with welding and cosmetic work!

I built a dedicated upper using a CMMG barrel and .22 kit. I would recommend you use a Boone Packer S&W 15-22 magazine adaptor. The best .22 mags I found are the S&W mags. With the adaptor the bolt will lock back and the bolt release works. https://www.redi-mag.com/product/better-mag-s-22-rimfire-magazine-adaptor/

The worst thing I've seen is someone pointing a pistol at my stomach! Not a very nice feeling.

Apex sear and striker block are all you need. I had my M&P.40 pro done by Dan Burwell. Great trigger. If you know what you are doing with a little polishing on the Apex parts you can get a very nice trigger. I used the stock striker spring with these two Apex parts and was able to get a trigger that was as nice the Burwell one. Don't change any angles on the parts. Just smooth them out with 2000 grit sand paper. Then use a felt tip on a Dremel and some polishing compound. You'll be very pleased

I've had this issue with my M&P.40Pro. Worked fine for years with the standard trigger and he Apex sear. After I installed the FSS kit it was having 2 or 3 light primer strikes each match. Could never get the FSS kit to be reliable in my pistol. Went back to the original setup and have had no issues. I chalked it up to my pistol is on the extreme end of the manufacturing tolerances and just won't work with a FSS kit.

Actually the most comfortable FSS trigger I've tried for the M&P is an Agency Arms Trigger. The Safety in the trigger is much wider than in the Apex trigger.

So I finally got around to installing the Apex FSS trigger in place of the Agency trigger. Same result as I had with the Agency trigger. I set the trigger bar loop as far back as possible so it did not release the sear. Then I opened it up so it was just releasing the sear at the most rearward travel. The striker block does not fully depress. Went back to a Apex standard sear with the factory trigger. No issue. The striker block fully depresses with this setup. I guess my pistol is at the far end of the M&P tolerance levels. Ok with the standard sear. Not with the FSS sear.

I didn't think to go over the process of switching the springs. Here is how to exchange the two springs. Check to confirm the pistol is unloaded. Field strip the pistol taking the slide off the pistol and removing the recoil spring and barrel. To replace the spring in the trigger pack punch out the roll pin in the rear of the frame. Pull the trigger to the rear and lift up on the trigger pack at the same time(there is no need to completely remove the trigger). The trigger pack should slide straight up. Unhook the factory spring from the trigger bar and the pack and replace it with the kit spring. Slide the trigger pack back into the frame and punch the roll pin back in place. To replace the spring under the striker block push in the plunger in the slide that holds the extractor. You can then remove the extractor and the striker block will come out(you do not need to completely remove the extractor; you only need to slide it out enough to allow the striker block to drop out). Exchange the springs depress the plunger and the striker block in at the same time and slide in the extractor back into place.

I have a 6" SVI. I've shot an Atlas. The Atlas is a really nice pistol. But my SVI is a much smoother cycling pistol. Both will do what you need them to do.

I too like the ruggedness of the MRO sight!

Well that is a shame. This was on my radar. All my LWRC Ar-15's are flawless...