Frankly

Yeah I know, I'm more curious than vindictive, I don't care if somebody walks my trail as long as they don't do anything bad or sue me.

I know nothing about game or trail cameras but I'd like to get one or two to install at my home range for curiosity's sake and maybe to catch trespassers. Ideally I'd like a camera that would be able to send images directly to my cell phone. The range is a bit too far from my home to pick up my regular WiFi network and I really don't want to have another monthly bill for cellular service so manually using a card reader is OK if broadcasting gets expensive. I'd also like a long battery life since I'm lazy. And cheap too haha... I know, impossible but I'd love to hear some practical suggestions that will save me hours of having to read dumb Field and Stream or Amazon recommendations. Thank you!

I like my Criterion. Starting to think how you fit and mount the barrel matters a lot - lapping the receiver, making a tight tap in fit by freezing barrel and/or heating receiver, using green Loctite, shims, buying known combinations of barrels and receivers that fit tight. No prom jokes please

Not sure if Airsoft is legal down there but it's popular in Japan....

But I need a TACTICAL heated vest so I don't look stupid. I'm sorry but what is the matter with layering and wear wool and fleece, maybe throwing a heavier coat on when you're standing around? The guys who work all night in the wet freezing cold making snow at the ski areas (ice cold water hoses being aerated by compressors) ~ one of the coldest jobs you can imagine ~ just wear simple clothes. Same for ice climbing. Is this a Texas thing?

You're generalizing or missing points in your reading. I can't speak for others but I said the PCC close paper hoser targets are BS as are the too easy shotgun/pistol targets, the gimmicky targets and the high round counts with a lot of worthless shots. IMHO do less but more satisfying targets, cut the round counts and par times, and use targets that don't need to be reset manually to speed the entire match up so we aren't standing around all day. If my round count is dropped in half all the better, I just spent 12 hours for 5x3 = 15m of shooting, that means 98% of my time wasn't shooting. With less targets you could increase the challenges or even recycle stages by simply moving the start box to the opposite side or further back, increase distances, make people reverse directions, kick a hay bail over to make the stationary positions different. What I'm saying is simplify the matches for the organizers not the shooters!

The other point was made that PRS is growing and likely siphoning off shooters. It makes a lot of sense that older shooters will move towards PRS since it has cool gear and less standing around. Easier for older folks to do ~ And the guns are fun to play with if you can afford them. Remember a lot of guys are engineers or technicians. I know it's cringe worthy to say "downgrade" or make things easier, I was always that guy who wanted things to be more challenging not less. But older men with kids out of the house are really the target demographic - guys with enough spare time and money to devote to a hobby/sport. When I was 40 with young kids I was working all-nighters to build my business and as much as I wanted to, I was't blowing off an entire day or a few hundred bucks for "just me". I honestly don't know how younger family guys do it, not a criticism but unless you work as a government contractor the math is wonky. Had a marketing pitch back in the 90s for skiing companies arguing this point. They'd run an ad of some dude hucking a 200' jump... cool picture. And I'd say, "I'd see you have the cliff jumping jackass demo covered..." and then show the stats that proved it was 50-year old intermediates driving the sport with their $$$. Same goes here. We all want to aspire to greatness but it helps if we can achieve something positive on our way up the ladder. Or we'll go shoot PRS with fellas our own age.

I'm the duffer who hasn't gone to a match in two years in spite of having invested and even trained with all the nicer gear, the stupid looking baby stroller, etc. My excuses are mainly that I have pretty bad arthritis (lots of injuries, 59-years old) and that standing around for 90% of the time and then trudging out to reset every five minutes is not a fun day. I rather be moving than waiting. Otherwise I don't mind the drive or the expense since I don't do it every weekend. I like the camaraderie, good people for sure. I wish everything was steel and thrown clays so there was zero resetting and the whole affair was faster to run through with par times around a minute to 90 seconds. My perfect match would start early and be done early with a lunch and beers afterwards. I'd gladly travel to a fun match like that several times a year, spending $2-300 per. Let the hardmen stay for round two in the afternoon if they wish but I still have a lot of outside work to do ~ Isn't the idea to show proficiency with three very different kinds of firearms? So give me a holster draw and a mag change on pistol, some sporting clay throws (i.e. how shotguns are meant to be used) and some prone rifle shots at medium range. That's how the guns are traditionally used and the most applicable situations outside the sport. Shooting a string of knock downs with a shotgun aimed at the dirt can be a rush but it's kind of a waste, so are all the gimmicky targets, poppers that 9mm can't pop, ridiculous slug targets, etc. What is the point of shooting 5 yard paper with hoser rifle ammo really? Just to copy what other matches do? Run up the round count and time so it feels like you did something? I'd be happy running the same bay twice. Maybe do something simple like run one clockwise and then counter clockwise. Would be fast to run through and get people shooting. Bigger and more complex isn't always better. Honestly I love talking with people between shooting but standing around all day in sun/rain to hurry up and wait sounds like the military to me. Taping paper and resetting a death star in a puddle is not fun.

About $100 for cheap new Amazon stroller and Rino mounts. Cut the baby stuff out and throw a back pack in. Eberlestock UpRanger works great.

Decided to stop messing around with yard sale junk, you don't find strollers unless you get lucky.... Bought the cheapest new stroller off Amazon, Baby Trend for $79 I think. Cut and unscrewed the tabs holding all the padded baby seat material so tubes were clear. Added Rhinos yokes for guns. My Eberlestock UpRanger fits perfectly in place with room for a small cooler or pack with drinks, etc. Also has a decent cup holder and you can squat sit over the front wheel. Pushes well over rough trails but the wheels are not the largest, stay on the path. Only downside is that folded it's still large. I drive a station wagon and it takes up more than half of the rear carrying space. Fine if you drive solo but not if you buddy has something similar, you'll want a larger car or truck.

I figure you want a trim fitting shirt because any gathering or fluff near your belt is going to cause problems and even be less safe. Which is a problem when my meat underneath my shirt is jiggling and if I get worse I'm going to need a sports bra.

Search for refurbished Vortex and there is a company that sells their refurbs, I've bought a Razor 1-6 II and a Viper 3-15ffp with no problems and they have been great scopes. My only complaints about the more expensive Vortex scopes is that they are the heaviest in their class and you absolutely need a throw lever because the zoom rings are tighter than a midget prom date. Why Vortex doesn't just build the throw ring into the design is beyond me? I had a Trijicon 1-4 Accupower that was light, reasonablely priced and decent glass... Sometimes I kind of wish I stopped there but the Razor 1 to 1 illumination is superb even with my astigmatism that makes red dots blobs. Agree you don't want FFP for 3Gun, I pretty much only use 1x or 6x so there is no point to it. I love it for longer range and target shooting though. I've owned a couple Strike Eagles and they are fine for the price, you can still recoup most of the cost and now that the 1-6s are only $219 on sale how can you complain? However if you have $400 you can get a used Trijicon 1-4 like above and it's a really decent scope if you can get past the 4x (which was standard up until a few years ago).

Can’t we blame Springfield just for the sake of being Fuddy though?

Atlas 2011 and Sig P365 (and Glock 19 in bedroom lock box).

Turns out it really was a fat bead of paint. Only a few seconds of sanding cleared it up. Achieved the nice tight fit as desired. Such drama, thanks for reading.

Use your semi to start. Go shopping at a specialist shop or attend a field day. Swing a bunch of guns, see what fits and feels right. Then wait for a good used example to come up. Adjustable combs, butts and even ribs can make the gun work even better. I have to shoot clays for clients socially otherwise I wouldn’t, I don’t care for it, feels like golf. I have owned a Beretta 391, Browning BT-99, Beretta 682 combo, etc. Honestly I’m tempted to get a 1980s vintage Remington Wingmaster and put an adjustable stock on it, call it one and done. It’s odd to bring a pump gun but they work well.

Well... in case nobody answers here's what I found with more search engine diligence. It might help somebody here down the road. From places like AR15.com so probably not the most reliable expert opinions but most people said that doing the frozen shrunken barrel and heat expanded upper was the way to go. Freezing the barrel 24 hours gets it as small as possible whilst heating the upper with a heat gun or torch isn't as large a gain (Steel versus Aluminum). Others used Scotch Brite on the barrel extension and others used a progression of 200-400-1000 grit Aluminum Oxide on the receiver throat. Most used a rubber mallet and wood block but sparingly, not full force. The few with calipers reported 0.003" difference being too tight and how far the heat/freeze technique moved. Some Benchrest National Match shooter claimed to be the world's expert on this and tried to hold court. Other guys argued for loose fits. Some people typed in ALL CAPS. The rest of the gun internet is scary. All these guys mentioned only being able to get their barrels inserted halfway with hand pressure, versus mine that will go the first 1/8". My experience with calipers is limited but I found a 0.009 difference between barrel and receiver so I have a lot larger move than the guys above. My dealer finally came around and said that properly applied Cerakote was no thicker than anodizing so don't blame the Cerakote. But he did say that about half his Aero uppers ran tight and he did the heat/freeze technique when needed. Looking closer, I suspect that the Cerakote must have gathered at the front of the receiver throat. Perhaps I caught the Monday hungover shift? But I'm going sand off as much as I need to get my barrel inserted halfway, freeze and heat, and lube the extension with lots of Aeroshell. I'll have the rubber mallet ready and can also use the barrel nut to pull it tight. I hope it's not such a big move that the receiver cracks but if I can get the barrel extension half way in I should be safe. Also learned that heating and freezing parts is used in the Aerospace industry so it's definitely legit. Thanks for the help! Har Har

So I had an Aero Precision upper Cerakoted and they did the inside where the barrel extension slides in. I have a new Faxon pencil barrel I want to use and it is such a tight fit that I can only "get the tip in" about 1/8". There is no lip of paint build up and the Cerakote guy did an otherwise good even job (except he hasn't yet returned my call with my complaint.... going on 48 hours.). I'm not super experienced but I tried some other barrels and they were also tight, one went about 1/2" with full hand pressure, the others were only 1/8". I've built several naked guns with tight barrel to upper fits that needed some thermal expansion/contraction (heat the upper, freeze the barrel) and some good wacks with a rubber mallet/wood. But nothing to this degree. I fear bending the pencil barrel or having it seize partway in. Right now I plan to return it and have the guy make it right, if I can not use a mass market quality barrel then it's no good to me and he needs to fix that. BUT... if I have to, what is the best way to open up this upper throat without introducing some sort of cant or warp? I also would like to understand this better in case the seller offers to fix this, the last thing I want is a sloppy fit. I imagine there is a drill chuck wire brush out there, any advice what size and kind to get? Or are we looking for a gunsmith with a lathe? Or just start over with a new upper (which might be cheaper in the end). Frustrated because it would probably be my best build yet and it does look great but cripes! Thanks

I want a picture of a chapped Tiger's ass, would make a great avatar. So do you clean the chamber before the barrel or do you clean the barrel then the chamber? Because all those micro shavings you're getting out of the chamber are going down your pristine barrel, either by a patch or a bullet.

I'm getting more serious about my ammo testing and my bipod and bags are not cutting it anymore. I've never shot "Benchrest" and do not own any sort of rifle rest but I'd like something solid and easy to use with AR15 type guns rather than conventional bolt guns. I want something of decent quality - better than a Caldwell plastic $30 rig - but probably not an expensive competition benchrest kit either. I don't need screw levels on each leg or anything ridiculous like a Ransom Rest. $100-$200 is what I'm expecting. Any suggestions? If you tell me to just get a rabbit ear bag that's more than what I've got. Secondly, for ammo testing and shooting the tightest groups possible, what is a short primer on how I should hold and fire? Maintain shoulder contact and a firm handgrip, slow trigger pull? Do I want the gun locked down 100% with no shaking in the scope (albeit only 6x, not 30x)? Do I want to build my rifle's platform, get it locked down on target and only lightly mount and pull the trigger or am I looking to brace the rifle and push-pull to make myself one with it and shoot it as though I'm prone? Thanks

GunCat in this thread is too modest to promote himself but he is one of the best 3Gun gunsmiths in the business and knows the Franchis having done mine.

Having owned both M2s and 1301s their build quality is similar. 1301 will have softer recoil but require more frequent cleaning. And at least the earlier 1301s are lighter and quirkier, especially the bolt release. They are also fast guns, if all you do is a mag dump you can shoot it empty in a second or two. The M2 will be stouter but more reliable, especially when dirty. It also feels more solid to me. But you'll notice slugs more. Their manual of arms are very different, I find the M2 (and Steoger, Franchi clones) to be more logical and simple to me. Now I use a Franchi that with gunsmith work comes in at the price of a new unmodified M2. Other than one spring being in a different position I can not find any difference from the M2 other than the shape/cosmetics of the stock. To me I'd use a good smith for opening up the loading port once and done, rather than spending all Summer tweaking it. And the other often overlooked job a good smith can do it align your slug and birdshot POA/POI which rarely agree out of the box. The funny thing is that Beretta owns ALL the above mentioned brands.

https://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/barrel-parts/rifle-barrels/ar-15-barrels-fluted-stainless-steel-rifle-length-prod84773.aspx?cm_mmc=cse-_-Itwine-_-shopzilla-_-100-030-106&utm_medium=cse&utm_source=connexity&utm_campaign=itwine&utm_content=100-030-106&avs|Make_3=AR-15&avs|Manufacturer_1=criterion+barrels+inc&avs|Cartridge_1=AJO_223%2bWylde 18" Fluted Stainless Criterion Barrel nice and tight into an Aero upper, shoots 1/2 MOA with 77gr. Weighs 2.15 lbs (~34ounces) and isn't pencil thin. I've had 5-6 16" guns prior and I like the extra length although I am thinking of adding a heavier stock, like a Magpul UBR to balance the rifle. And I think I will probably end up building a lightweight billet gun down the road (and keep both).

"But it's a dry heat." lol I've read reviews where they try to explain the relatively heavy pull weights are grit free and break like glass, etc.

Recent production Sig P365, hopefully all the kinks are worked out, seems fine. It shoots the best of all the small 9mms I've tried and the extra capacity is a bonus too. G19 with light at home.