alma

I had this issue putting LPA Dawson FO rear sights on my CZ TS. I ended up removing material from the rear side of the triangle that slides into the slide notch (how that makes sense). Once uI had it fit it left me with a slight gap between the sight and the gun in you are looking at it from the side. The moral of the story is I should have removed material from the bottom of the sight first since the "triangle" was slightly to tall for my gun causing the base to be wider than it should have been. I ordered the same sight for my CZ SP01 Shadow Target Custom but that one drifted right in with no problems.

What tape or holster ate you using? If production division then I assume your holster (likely kydex) covers that area. The grip tape might change the fit of your gun in the holster and would certainly shave away bits of kydex with every reholster or draw.

Accuwedge is better than nothing but doesn't compare with the JP Tension Pin. It is, however, much easier on the wallet and doesn't make it any more difficult to take the gun apart.

I am sure the answers would be within reach via a search but what do you see as the issues with the Gen 4s? I don't have any experience with them.

Change log?

Let me stress the importance of having a consistent Glock trigger reset technique. Hopefully when your shots break you only release the trigger far enough for it to reset (the loud "click") and you are not not letting it all the way out every time.

I tried most DIY triggers and springs. I don't like the feel of the heavy trigger Springs. It affected my reset and I would rather have a more positive reset than a slightly lighter trigger. I used reduced power striker springs (4 lb) and that makes a big difference but after installing one of those you should try to stick with Federal primers (or maybe Winchester if you get desperate). I bevel both sides of the safety plunger and cut two coils off of the plunger spring. This helps to smooth out the two-stage feel of the pull considerably. I preferred the Glock OEM 3.5 connectors when you could get them. Installed over travel and pre travel set screws into the trigger housing. Polish everything else. Back when it was legal I also used an original Vanek style trigger bar where the trigger had been removed and repinned at a slightly different angle. The trigger safety was also profiled more to the trigger pad and the made some modifications to the engagement of the trigger safety to engage earlier. Doing everything right should give you a pull just north of two pounds. You should find some Glock friends who have had Production legal race triggers installed and see how they feel.

The Shadow / SP01 side stop is a bit longer than the stock one on the 75B so it may help. http://czcustom.com/CZ_slide_stops.aspx

Yes

+1 for Ghost Stinger

I forgot to ask what kind on trigger you have in your G34. That can make a huge difference.

Controlled drop

You can shoot a highly point all the way to C class. It is more the Indian than the arrow but still the point is valid. Minor misalignments with sight alignment on a gun with a short sight radius will result in a greater error down range.

I reread your original question. I wasn't giving you options for mounting to ELS with the quick release option. I think you can just screw the holster directly onto the ELS belt using the top two holes at a minimum. You could likely modify it for additional holes like I have done with the TMMS.

It really shouldn't be an issue. I you want too be a good shooter then one why or other the finish it your gun should be getting trashed.

I got my M card shooting a Glock 34 and love that gun. I left the sport for several years and wanted to change things up a bit coming back in so I switched to CZ. On more than one occasion I have debated switching back to my 34 thinking that I might still perform better with it because of all of the years I have had on it. In the end I chose to stick with the CZ because I don't want to waste time changing too many variables on my rig, I want to get comfortable with one set up and then shift focus towards improving my shooting, not constantly trying to get ahead through equipment improvements.PS, just sold my 34 to remove the temptation to go back.

Also, is you want to buy a high end Shadow in DA/SA or SA then keep an eye on the classifieds here. You frequently see very nice CZs being offered with all of the most desirable enhancements. For example on the SA side http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=192877&view=&hl=&fromsearch=1

I can't answer your question directly about whether the Short Reset DA modification can make the trigger just as good as the SA because I don't own a 75 SA. I suspect, however, it's incredibly close when done right. A well done DA/SA trigger in SA is around 2lb with almost no pretravel.

Those are the factory models, not the ones that CZ Custom has worked on so these won't have as good of a trigger or the short reset out of the box. The core is the same gun but without the some of the action/trigger work, accuracy work, and other upgrades. If you like to do your own work then get the base model and build it up over time. If you aren't then you can order one that has all of the upgrades and custom work done already so all you have to do is drop a bit more cash up front. Here are two of the top end CZ Custom guns but if you buy your factory Shadow from CZ Custom they should be able to perform any specific upgrades that interest you. http://czcustom.com/cz75shadowcustomblk.aspx http://czcustom.com/czcaccushadowliteblk.aspx There are also some great threads here and on czfirearms.us about DIY trigger jobs and recommended reliability tweaks. CZ Custom, CZ USA, and Cajun Gun Works sell some great parts for doing your own work/upgrades. You can also consider Matthew Mink's Automatic Accuracy for top of the line competition work on CZ guns. http://automaticaccuracy.net/

The way the stage is set up it certainly makes the most senses to shoot it on the move. Perhaps it's the perfect example of when to shoot on the move even though in this case there stage designer attempted to dictate it. It can be hard to set up good stages but USPSA is a freestyle competition and shooters should be left with some options of filed courses.

Center of Mass (CoM) kydex. Hand made and lots of attention to detail.

It's also very strange that they have you shoot from a box at the end under a port but don't require that both feet be in the box. One foot out is out. Is this Outlaw USPSA?

Yeah, they can't tell you to do that in USPSA.

Is that a CZ that you are shooting now? If so then let me know it you ever need any minor gunsmithing done to it. I think I saw you shooting a M&P or something previously? How are your double action to single action transitions going. I see just a little bit of a lean on that very first shot like you were hoping the gun would go off a bit sooner. Nice reload!

Regarding #4, one method is just making it a habit to never put a half full magazine in your magazine pouches. Stick them in a pocket after your stages until you have a chance clean them (if necessary) and top off.