Gregg K

That actually happened before the shooter was at the line, while targets where being taped. Well if this guy was not up to the line to shoot and was doing this while others were taping, I can see where it would be considered rehersing and doing a personal walk through. You see this at some matches where a guy walks the COF with tape in his hand and never tapes a single target, they just walk the COF pausing at each firing point and checking out the targets. Some SO's get real tired of this tactic and have a low tollerence for it. He should have been taping or wait for the walk through if he had not already received one.

Also be sure to drop check your load into your barrel to see if the projectile contacts the rifling. I have changed projectiles before and loaded them to the same length only to have them contact the rifling before seating in the chamber because the profile of the bullet was different. I don't know how much free bore you have in the Glock but you should always check for contact with the rifling since this can cause pressure to spike.

A speed load at the last firing point would be the same as dropping the mag on the ground while doing a tac load or a reload with retention. The rules state that if you fire the next shot without properly stowing the magazine, it is a procedural. It makes no difference if it was the last firing position, the gun was fired before the mag was stowed..penalty.

Sure, the S&A is a good choice. You can get it arched or flat. You can also get it for regular or thin grips. It's almost always drop in. I don't know if your Mil-Spec comes with the ILS in the mainspring housing or not, if it does you will want to get the internals for the S&A. No problem with it fitting in the box.

Thanks for sharing the video. It's always nice to see what's going on at other clubs.

It says 3 yards. I would not have a problem with 3 feet as you list. From my experience 9 feet is too far away to be able to maintain control.

I don't care much for this old language from the LGB 4. Try and stay within 3 yards of the shooter. Move as necessary. Don’t let him run into you if he is moving. Do NOT ‘hover’ over the shooter or put yourself in a position that will distract the shooter. 3 yards is too far. You can't stop a shooter from turning and facing you if you are 3 yards away. I'm thinking about a match that I had to smack the side of the pistol with my left hand and step into the shooter to keep him from turning and facing everyone up range, 3 yards would have been way to far away. You were there Jamie, I don't know if you saw the details from where you were.

I would say no. It would at least be a prop malfunction and you would be due a re-shoot. Common sense would would say that if you put a falling steel plate down with enough force that it went all the way down and popped back up that it is neutralized. Some falling steel needs a cushion to land on so that it doesn't bounce. It's not the shooters fault provided that it was just plain falling steel and wasn't designed to come back up like some reactive targets.

Does the powder slide work back and forth? If the powder slide is not working it may be because you left out the powder funnel or it's not adjusted low enough to contact the case. The powder funnel is what bells the top of the case and guides in the powder. It is dropped in from the top into the powder die. Be sure to install the fail safe rod that returns the powder slide to its starting position.

Your division capacity in SSP is a max of 10+1. You can load up to this amount or as close as you can get to it. You would load your mag to its capacity up to 10 and be topped off with one in the chamber. Whatever capacity magazine you use, they must all be loaded the same up to your division capacity. Your gun must be capable of fitting in the IDPA box with the magazines that you are using. You can start the stage with a magazine that hangs out the bottom of the gun so long as the gun still fits in the box with the magazine inserted.

I had a problem with the indexing arm not being pushed back by the spring too. At first I thought it was the spring but when I took it all apart I found that a lot of old junk was packed under the index arm and the pin it rotates on. I used to neglect this when I cleaned the press but have found that it pays to remove the arm and clean it from time to time to keep it indexing the primer wheel properly.

One more for get the 650 if for no other reason to get the powder check. I have seen enough people ruin guns because they loaded on a 550 and missed checking the powder. It may save your gun or your hand and you can't put a price on that. The 650 is way faster too.

I have seen some 1911's with the big base pads that had to have an angle cut on the front edge of the base pad to fit in the box.

Same here. The folks at Comp-Tac compete so they understand what you need. Give them a call and tell them what you need and that you need it for IDPA. They will take care of you. http://www.comp-tac.com/

Here is the problem. The rule book states.. 7. Obtain a valid classification and maintain it by shooting the classifier at least once every twelve (12) months (except master class shooters). It doesn't say in what the shooter is to be classified in. Due to the lack of proper wording a shooter could get a valid classification in SSR within the last year and then go sandbag ESP. The rule should of said 7. Obtain a valid classification and maintain it by shooting the classifier at least once every twelve (12) months for each division he will compete in except (master class shooters).

And that's the whole problem with the light through the channel rule. The 3/4" gap from the body should be the end of the story as far as spacing from the body.

When you tighten down the shell plate, be sure to leave it to where it turns freely and remember to tighten down the set screw that keeps the shell plate bolt from turning. If you don't lock down the shell plate bolt, it will get tighter as you load from the shell plate turning to the right and after a little while the shell plate will be too hard to turn and blow the indexer ring. Maybe this is how your ring broke. Not to worry, Dillon will replace it.

I'll try to remember to take the instructions with me to work on Monday and scan them. The instructions do say that if the primer punch is not centered in the shell plate that you probably weren't pushing the block against the indexer ring hard enough when you tightened the 2 screws. Be sure the block is not slanted left or right when you tighten it. It's easier to have someone push the handle all the way forward when making the adjustment. I just used a bungee cord to hold it. It took a little playing with mine to get it right.

The index block is what the ring indexer contacts on the down stroke to rotate the shell plate, it's a block attached to the bottom left side of the press and has an angled surface that contacts the ring indexer. I'm going by memory but I believe the old style blocks are about 1.675" from top to bottom. The instructions that come with the new blocks say that the new ones measure 1.775" but the one on my press is 1.875". Basically, you put an alignment tool over the primer punch with the handle pushed all the way forward and then adjust the block to contact the indexer ring, this will hold the shell plate in the proper position while the primer seating punch is up. The shell plate may relax into the ball detent when the handle is in the neutral position but that's OK since the primer has been seated. Measure your block to see how tall it is and if you have the old shorter one I would call Dillon to get the new type with the tool and instructions to adjust the timing. The index block is part number 18 on page 50 of the Dillon manual for the 650. http://dillonhelp.com/manuals/english/XL650_v6_1.pdf?

There is an adjustment for timing the priming. Older 650's had a shorter index block and didn't contact the ring indexer as soon as the newer models. Adjustment of the index block changes when the primer punch comes up through the shell plate and how it centers itself. A tool and instructions are available from Dillon for the adjustment. It sounds like you have found the problem since it worked fine until you did the caliber conversion. The adjustment of the locater tab gets over looked a lot.

I forgot to add that when I switch from his old style 200 grain to the new I had to bump up the powder .2 grains to keep it above 165 PF. If I remember right, they come in at 168 with 5.0 WST. I could get away with 4.8 WST with the old style bullet.

I have been using them for a while. I'm loading them with 5.0 gr. WST at 1.220" COL. I have been through 30K of his old style and 15K of the new in one gun with no problems. I liked the way the old style cut a hole in the target like a SWC but he doesn't make that style any more.

I have been running Virgil's 10 round 9mm mags for the last year. I got some of his original batch. They are the best running magazine in my gun. CMC 38 super mags can be made to work decent but need a bit of work. All this is with 147gr. projectiles loaded long. As far as 9 round mags for those that think it's more gamey for IDPA, the Springfield style MetelForms are the best. The Metelform followers are pretty sorry and most need a little work to get them to lock back consistently. The little foot that engages the slide stop is sometimes bent down and doesn't engage properly and when you bend it up, it drags the front of the tube so you have to grind the front of the follower for clearance.

The top is 54"X20" and the bench stands 39" tall. It's a little tall but the casters will make it easier to wheel down the hall from the living room when I have to hide my junk. I called a friend in another town and he called his local Home Depot and they said that they had 5 of them, by the time he drove over they only had 2, they said they sold 3 in the last 1/2 hour. They were also $79 and had the same part number as the online one.

Since you mention 9mm I have to say get the 1050. I have both and have my 1050 setup for .45 and the 650 for 9mm and wish I had the 1050 kit for 9mm. When you pickup range brass there always seems to be a few military crimped primers in the bunch. If you use the 1050, swedging the primer pockets is one of the stations so no big deal, on the 650 it screws up the whole deal and you end up having to re-index everything to get cranking again and zap, here comes another to tick you off.