Morgan

To remove glued in FO turn the slide over and soak in acetone for about 15 minutes, then poke out the remainder with a toothpick.

Turn the slide over and soak the sight in acetone. It'll take half an hour or so, but the fiber will turn to goo and you can push it out with a wire.

Aker.

Wilson pins don't back out, but they break. The best I've found are the Caspians. The rear notch is a little wider than most, at about .128" rather than the more traditional .115", but the pins don't walk and they last well. I've always opened my rears up to .125"-.130", so they work out perfectly for me.

Not exactly true. Loading longer reduces the PEAK pressure, or spike, which is the main reason cases (and guns) fail. Try loading Clays short in .40, reducing the powder charge to get the same velocity as a long-loaded .40. Guess which cases will blow (and guess how I know).

Tom sez: "It would not be legal for production or SS." Which will, no doubt, be used for promotional purposes - "so good that it's been outlawed for competition!" I recall another sight manufacturer making similar claims. Shame they're not allowed, really - then everyone would know what a joke they are.

Check to see if there's an industrial plating outfit in your area that will do hard chrome - you'll have to detail strip and just take them the parts, but you'll get it faster, no shipping mess, and waaaay cheaper. Local place here does $90 for a small parcel of parts, equalling two pistols. They can also bead blast or polish stuff first.

When you're dry fire practicing (you do dry-fire practice, right?), after each run try to REMEMBER where those hits on target would have been. If you don't know, you're not even trying to call the shot.

It isn't a standard Lee die, though it is made by Lee. It's actually 0.001" undersize, hence the "undersize" designation. It works great. On VERY rare occasion with Glocked brass it will crush/shave the case where it bulges - I just toss that case. Otherwise, all the brass drops right in a case guage.

Cy - regular (think daily) dry fire will "burn in" most techniques, especially when you're changing something. You've got to practice it until it becomes the norm, overriding your old programming. Live fire will confirm that you've sucessfully reprogrammed your mind.

Slightly lightened slides, three different .40 S_I builds, 10# ISMI recoil, 17# main.

Another big thumbs up for Steve Moore in Denver. Three STI builds, all wonderful - great with other guns, too.

Try Dawson Precision.

Monster - Steve M narrowed mine and drilled it for a fiber optic, so the sights are set up just like my STI's, CZ's, and M&P's. Didn't cost much...

The Hogs are - they're good on grass, dirt, gravel, sand... They're even okay on concrete.

Sounds like the barrel may be short chambered - most S_I guns will run rounds over 1.200" without trouble. Any good smith can fix, if that's the case.

They don't get called "painted ordinance" for nothing!

I've got the mid-height Turf Hogs - I really like them, comfortable and good traction.

I would avoid the Wilson adjustable rear sights - they over-harden them and the rear of the body breaks. They don't break at the front like some Bo-Mar designs do... I've had great luck with Caspian rear sights if you want adjustables. Be aware they have a bit wider notch (about .125).

Tiny - I reload, but this was with factory ammo. The problem guns are worse with aluminum cased ammo, but exhibit the problems with brass cases as well. The gun is now off with my local CZ guru - happy days on the horizon!

I've noticed I do something strange occasionally when I'm on a roll - my visual focus will be on the target, or maybe a little forward of it, but my eyes will be centered stereoscopically on the front sight. So I'm seeing two targets, but in focus, and the sights superimposed, but a bit blurry. Vary rarely I've noticed the opposite - lens focus on the sight, stereo vision on the target. I don't make these things happen, they just do - as long as it's working I just observe and shoot.

That's why I'm ranting - ANY gun, especially a production gun, shouldn't need anything out of the box to function, ever. For the price of my top-of-the-line, fancy-schmancy Shadow that doesn't work, I could buy two M&P's or Glocks that I would be willing to strap on my hip and wear into harm's way without any testing - unfired. And I've had two of said Shadows, and several other 75's, with exactly the same problems... CZ could make fantastic inroads into the civilian and police communities, but they're simply not trusted due to the extraction/ejection issues. Yep, and he says that because he's seen my CZ's and several others, with the exact same problem. Fix 'em, they're the best, but they shouldn't need fixing... Yep. Funny though, my 2011's (four of them), which are supposed to be finicky, fragile toys, all run like stink from brand new. Of course for the cost they'd better. I'd happily pay an extra $100 for a CZ that I wouldn't have to wonder "will this one run or not?"

They're not just pretty good guns - they're GREAT! Perhaps my luck has been extraordinarily bad... And the second one isn't working yet - I hope to hand it off next Sunday .

I love CZ's. LOVE THEM. Especially the SA and Shadow models with the upswept beavertail. They point great, shoot great, track great, look great... I'm a Limited shooter at heart, and find the SP01/Shadow to be a FANTASTIC training gun (I'm lucky enough to get to train a lot, but mostly with 9mm). But fully a third of all CZ's I've owned or seen have ejection (and sometimes extraction) problems when they're BRAND NEW. I'd love to get them authorized for duty carry by my department (about 1500 sworn, who now get to choose from a fairly extensive approved list for carry), as they are very easy to shoot well, but that would be a joke due to their ejection/extraction issues. At the IACP conference this month the CZ police guys (seperate from CZ-USA, it's complicated) offered to send us some for T&E. I laughed. We've de-authorized guns that didn't have nearly as many problems, as we don't have time to work on them and people's lives are on the line. I have a Shadow, tuned by the custom shop, that wouldn't reliably eject. The ejection was erratic, and about once a magazine the case wouldn't eject and another cartridge would feed in under it. Not a stovepipe, as the expended case was still trapped in the slide, but not really a true double feed. Back it went to CZ-USA. They tuned it and sent it back. No love - still did it. Thankfully, I live near a CZ guru who knows how to make them run, and he helped me out. I just bought a new Shadow (not the custom tuned, as the aforementioned guru has graciously agreed to tune it for me), as I'm probably giving my old one to a newer shooter as a congrats for making B class, and after six rounds it DID THE SAME DAMN THING! Can't make it through a single magazine! This is a brand new gun, and I expect it to perform it's function as a gun. The ejector is squared, not tuned at all, and it's CZ's top of the line, the best of the best. My prior experience with about 10 CZ's has been similar - when they run, they're fantastic shooting machines, but about a third need extra power extractor springs and the ejector to be dressed before they'll work. What's the deal with this? Why can't they make 'em work out of the box? Why don't they open the ejection port to alleviate some of this problem? There are guys that know how to make them work, and I know the factory can make them work, so why don't they do some QC? Aaaaarrrrrgh!!!! *Whew*. Thanks for letting me rant! Please, please don't tell me how reliable your CZ has been - I've seen enough to know what the problems are, and your superlative luck will only make me sad. Did I mention how much I love CZ's?

Agreed. I'll probably end up selling my stub-tailed 75's... Thanks for sharing the photos!