Prebaned

Don't need a shell plate or case feed plate. You already have the powder funnel. Set it up on your ss without the fail safe rod and push the cases into the die with your hand and manipulate the belcrank as you would while setting up powder charges on the 650.

No issues with Titegroup and H335. Few things to add besides making sure you have full powder bar throw. I have my fail safe rod spring compressed 1/2, polish your funnel inside and powder measure to a mirror finish. I always make my final powder adjustment of the bolt in a clockwise turn to take out the slack. Fill hopper at least one inch above the intergraded baffle. Finally I throw 10 charges after final adjustment. Also always empty your powder measure hopper when done if you want to see through your hopper next time.

Here is a copy of the link Had same issue. Your alignment issue is probably going to be fixed by adjusting the indexer block #16776. Dillon makes a tool that slips on the primer punch to aid in adjusting the block. The block should push the shell plate to the detent ball and no more, not the detent ball "pulling" the shell plate to final position. You are out of time. Actually too advanced. The instructions are very specific and will set you up right. It can be done without the tool with a calibrated young eye. I have found a adjustment manual online that includes the index timing that may help you. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?/topic/194251-650-shell-plate-timing--fixed--indexer-block Post #12 Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

what is that? I tried Google..is that the case trimmer? Nothing more than a tool head with prep dies installed. The advantage of the 650 is to speed up rifle reloading progressively with a two step process. Although many ways to do it and not the cheapest, this works for me and is the fastest plus I don't have to touch brass more than twice to produce loaded .223. This is of course with a case feeder. .223 setup on xl650 My set-up is as follows. . . LUBE Brass with shine version of DCL Brass prep tool head Station 1 - Dillon .223 Carbide Sizing/Decapping Die sized to 85% Station 2 - Empty naked to the wind Station 3 - Dillon 1200b Trimmer with custom insert pin and attach vacuum. Trim die set to size the other 15% which makes sure the case does not spin. Station 4 - Empty naked to the wind Station 5 - Lyman M Die -set to knock of any inside burr and put a extreme very slight flare in less than .002 Wet Tumble Cleans off any lube out side and more importantly gets ride of all lube from the inside of the case necks, also makes the cases look brand new. Hornady pocket ream primer pockets if necessary. Loading tool head Station 1 - Lee Universal Decapping Die to clear flash hole of any debri as added insurance. Station 2 - Seat primer, drop powder Station 3 - Dillon Powder Check Station 4 - Redding Competition Pro Seating Die Station 4 - Lee Factory Crimp Die to take out the slight flare from the M die and employ a slight crimp. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

Get a prep tool head, you're going to need it. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

It's bad enough that rifle reloading is a two step process on a progressive press so I stopped making it three steps. Get a wet tumbler, I have the new FA which is great. Unless your brass is really bad with corrosion and/or mud covered skip the pre tumble. My dies have seen no wear. I now roll like this which deletes a whole separate depriming process and deletes another tumble process to get the lube off. .223 setup on xl650 My set-up is as follows. . . LUBE Brass with shine version of DCL Brass prep tool head Station 1 - Dillon .223 Carbide Sizing/Decapping Die sized to 85% Station 2 - Empty naked to the wind Station 3 - Dillon 1200b Trimmer with custom insert pin and attach vacuum. Trim die set to size the other 15% which makes sure the case does not spin. Station 4 - Empty naked to the wind Station 5 - Lyman M Die -set to knock of any inside burr and put a extreme very slight flare in less than .002 Wet Tumble Cleans off any lube out side and more importantly gets ride of all lube from the inside of the case necks, also makes the cases look brand new. Hornady pocket ream primer pockets if necessary. Loading tool head Station 1 - Lee Universal Decapping Die to clear flash hole of any debri as added insurance. Station 2 - Seat primer, drop powder Station 3 - Dillon Powder Check Station 4 - Redding Competition Pro Seating Die Station 4 - Lee Factory Crimp Die to take out the slight flare from the M die and employ a slight crimp. Clean loaded rounds in two process. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

When loaded it can be heard through a insulated hardwood floor. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

I run it to I can't take it no more and get tired. I put a heat sink on it with thermal paste. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

Mine is set so the camming pin is 1/16th of a inch off the case insert slide when the handle is all the way aft with a seated primed case in station 2. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

Yes On my XL650 trim die I have one on top and one on the bottom. I have the RCBS set screw type and just can not get the set screw tight enough. I put shot under the set screw and they some times still move. I bit the bullet and ordered the Hornady crossbolt nuts with the flats. They seem to be the best type that clamp the whole die diameter without relying on a set screw jammed into one tiny spot on the threads. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

Your best plan for your dollar would be get the Lee set. I have it set up on my 650 and when set up properly it sizes my Glocked brass perfectly and shoots fine in my non-Glock handguns. No need for a U die or any undersized die. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

While I respect everyone's approach to the ski jump, I wouldn't spend a dime on buying that product. I did a "fix" for free with items I had but the material would cost around $3.00 if you had to buy them. Keeping with the true Dillon blue theme a plastic electric outlet box which is about .45 cents is as close to color as it comes. I cut a little piece out of the box and shrink sleeved to the end of the chute. I had black shrink sleeve in stock so that's what I used. Blue can be had but it would cost me around $2.00 to buy. Slips on and off as needed. And looks like it was made to live there. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

Great videos!Look into changing your rinse method. Cut your time in half and no lost pins. My post #30 works great. Ditch the separator strainer in the tub. Just pour the dirty water out of the tub into a sink untill you see the pins/brass about to free themselves out. You will get the hang of it quick. After about three rinses dump everything into the media separator over a bucket and stir up the brass with your hands for about 5 minutes. All the pins will fall into the bucket not all over the floor. No magnet needed and quick. One thing I learned is that DCL does not like to come off well with dry media even with mineral spirts added. I changed up my method to cure this. I lube, size, trim first then wet tumble. If the brass is really dirty to the point of interfering with the dies dry tumble first but I have not found a need to do that. Towel dry works fine for me and I run screaming hot water over the brass in the media separator, shake a few times and throw the on a towel and use another towel to rub over them a few times. Makes drying time much quicker. Of course you can always bake them on a cookie sheet at 170 degrees for 15-20 minutes and the come out nice and dry but not so tasty....LOL Good luck and happy cleaning. Artie Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

With 650 only strong mount. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

To much Lemi-shine will turn brass pink. Spots come from hard water and soap not completely rinsed off. If using a dryer I would put in a shoe dryer rack that is static and does not spin. Dropping brass in a bag free falling 12 inches over and over again will not be good for the brass or dryer. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

I enjoy it. Get the .047 pins Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

Those of micrometer adjustment knobs are mighty fine looking and very practical in switching powder drops with different loads. I would need four and it's just too pricey so I went the old-school cheap route and I just put a dab of blue Loctite on the threaded adjustment screw. Holds perfect but doesn't address the issue of changing drops easily. I have more time than money right now and this seems to work for me. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

1 I roll with the Frankford arsenal media separator and a 5 gallon bucket. The separator is well built, all I do is I rinse the brass in the tumbler when done a few times and pour out the dirty water into the sink just before the brass and pins start to come out. Maybe three or four times. Then I put the media separator on top of an empty 5 gallon bucket and dump the whole drum, pins and brass into it. The separator catches the brass as the pins fall through the holes of the separator into the bottom of the bucket. Then I just keep mixing up the brass with my hand untill all the pins have gone through the separator into the bottom of the bucket. I usually do about 600 at a pop. When done I just grab the bucket full of pins and dump it back into the tumbler drum no need for a magnet or separating works really well. 2 You will lose the pins before they wearout. I went with the .047 pins to avoid any stuck pins in the flash holes. 3 Works best for me. I have used straight up citric acid from Walmart in the caning good section Balls brand. 4 Towel works great. In a rush I have rinsed the brass in screaming hot water then threw them on a cookie sheet into the oven at 170° for about 20 minutes when no one was home. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

Just ran a ten shot string 62*F .222/5.56MM 55gr FMJBT W/C Hornady H335 24.1gr Trim 1.750 +/-.002 OAL 2.219 (mid cannalure) Light crimp CCI 450 SRM 2677AVG FPS AR15 16 inch 1/9 twist barrel Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

Check that little flat head Allen screw that holds the spring cap on the primer punch is tight. Mine got loose and would not retract the punch fully and baffled me for days why I was getting hang ups. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

Was a iPhone typo. Meant to type 50 but 59 came out which is probably closer anyway. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

I notice if you don't resize a case and powder drop you will get a different reading. Full shell plate with a unsized case in number one, ram up and get your reading. Every time you change your flare put a new unsized case in number one and fill the shell plate. Also the installed primer should not matter since the oal isn't effected by the center of the case head when in the shell plate. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

I put two layers of blue painters tape over the speaker grill and trimmed it with a razor. Looks like it was made that way and it is 59% quieter. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk