Prebaned

Mine has the same amount of play or slop as your video shows coming out of the box brand-new. The play is all in the mainshaft where it is connected to the crank. The 650 uses a mainshaft pivot pin to connect the main shaft to the crank, unlike the link arm pins that are threaded and have nuts. Ideally you would want a zero clearance between the mainshaft flats and the crank ears. Since the pivot pin is only held in with a setscrew in the middle, there is no way to tighten up that play without using shims or make a pin with threaded ends in which you can tighten the nuts on the outside of the crank to squeeze it closer to the mainshaft flats. I was quite annoyed at that design myself when I saw all the slop in it, but it doesn't seem to affect the performance now but overtime it may get looser from wear of steel against aluminum. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

Worked for me. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?/topic/195117-%2E223-LC-Neck-tension Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

I found no need for a thrust bearing. The free and effective method has work for me. Properly adjust the index block to pull the shell plate to the detent ball instead of the detent ball pulling the shell plate into final position. Dillon make a alignment tool for this that goes on the primer punch. Clip a coil off the detent ball spring, tighten the shell plate bolt as tight as you can and still have no drag, one drop of oil under the bolt head and tighten the set screw. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

Dillon die has a stuck case remover. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

I think I had two issues. One was to much lube left in the necks after sizing that was cured by wet tumbling. I have a carbide expander ball on my Dillon sizer so no more lube in the necks as it really isn't needed with the carbide ball for smooth operation.The other was, although I was within headspace spec I was on the long side. Squeezing shorter by a few more thousands seemed to get tighter neck tension lower on the neck. I'm still within headspace spec on the Dillon case gauge but closer to the shorter side. So to answer your question, yes, I screwed down the sizing die. I actually used my trim die which is a sizing die. My carbide dillon sizing die sizes 90% of the case while I have the trim die do the other 10% as I want a good hold of the case while trimming to avoid spinning the case in the die.

I got it now. I adjusted the trim die down 1/8 more and that gave me a little shorter on the case gauge. The head was .001 under the high cut on the Dillon case gauge. The low cut is .005 lower than the high cut. I now have the head .004 under the high cut. Now with that the headspace set properly it seemed to tighten up the necks at the shoulder more. I resized the batch again and wet tumbled the DCL off this time. I think I went a little to much with the DCL in the necks and didn't clean them enough in the walnut media to remove the lube in the necks. The wet tumble seemed to get it all off and no set back issue. Next time no more lube in the necks and I think I won't have any setback issue. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

New one for me, Lake city once fired brass. Sized w/Dillon carbide die and trimmed with Dillon RT1200. Can't seem to get it right. Outside neck is .2415 avg. inside is .217-.218 on a resized case. Bullets are Hornady .224 FMJBT 55gr W/C. Bullets come in at .2225 avg. Loaded dummy outside necks are .2455 avg. Tension should be around .004 on average. What I have read is setback should not occur under 25lbs. of force. When I push the bullet into a metal block on the side of my bench I get it to move with a lot of force from my thumb pushing the head of the cartridge. I don't know how to measure it in pounds but it does move. Question is, being the tension number seems right, is my setback test at fault and no reason for concern exists? Maybe I'm putting to much ass behind the head? Anyone have a more repeatable way to check for setback? Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

That is the load I am going to use. The 450's have a .025 thick cup while the 400's are .020. I can't bring myself to buy the #41's even though the anvil is spaced a tad further away then the 450's. The thicker cup is good enough for me. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

Read the Gempro 250 is the best for the money with great reviews. That said I cheaped out and got the Lyman micro touch for $47.00 with no complaints. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

Had same issue. Your alignment issue is probably going to be fixed by adjusting the indexer block #16776. Dillon makes a tool that slips on the primer punch to aid in adjusting the block. The block should push the shell plate to the detent ball and no more, not the detent ball "pulling" the shell plate to final position. You are out of time. Actually too advanced. The instructions are very specific and will set you up right. It can be done without the tool with a calibrated young eye. I have found a adjustment manual online that includes the index timing that may help you. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

If it's not a steal get a new one well worth it. Few upgraded parts since then that I noticed mine has that the one you are looking at does not. Powder measurer old-style with springs and no bell crank failsafe system and old type of coating on powder bar. No grease zerks Old style shell plate indexer ring Old-style case feeder bracket which was much taller. I would check the ram for play in the bore of the casting, if that is sloppy I would pass. The parts in the picture look to be quite oxidized also, as I said I would pass unless it's a super deal. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

Can't speak for the 1050 but on my 650 I had a issue with advancement. The rotary primer disc would advance when it felt it wanted to on its own terms. Drove me nuts. Powder all over the shell plate was the indicator. After reading up and trying the usual fixes of leaving the bolts only hand tight and a drop of oil on the pin, the only fix needed and has been working 100% is the polish job. Seems the primer indexing arm is a stamped part with less than smooth edges. The little pawl that engages the holes on the rotory primer disc needed a good debur and polish and never skipped beat since. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

I would like a billet one myself. Replacing one sucks after you aligned the platform and primer punch. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

Tried the RCBS set screw lock nuts, even with lead shot under the screw I could not get them to stay put without completely striping the Allen. Going the Hornady route when money allows as these have flats to tighten with a wrench. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

I tried the one nut and it loosened on me from motor start torque over time. I found two act like jam nuts with a little blue Locktite. I also mounted the switch box on the strong mount with a piece of sheet metal that required no alterations or holes in the strong mount or switch box. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

I used a super custom roofing nail. Clipped the head off of one side. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

Sounds like maybe the cutting blade is in the die. Back out the motor a bit and try the motor again. Installed .223 die touching shell plate plus 1/4 turn down gives me proper case gauge headspace. This leaves a small amount of threads exposed and small chip window but works. I installed a lock nut under the tool head also. Vacuum attachment with foam spacer to keep from riding up. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

Last week a broken .223 carbide expander ball after 10 cases through a new carbide die. Today while on the XL650 universal depriming tool head run of .223 Bam...... This one is going to suck since I had the platform adjusted with the alignment tool and the primer punch aligned also. Dillon has been great on the replacements so far. I sure am happy I went with Dillon. Any other company I would surly get grief. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

Just the 45 angles where the case is first entered into the locator. Some cases with beat up extractor groves were hanging up. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

I crushed plenty of cases. I found when all else is greased and adjusted properly, high speed results in two issues. Short stroking and I actually out speed the cam insert slide. This happens on my universal depriming setup when I go crazy. After I polished the locator ramp angles and normal speed is used the problems are non existent. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

I bough a couple of the Dillon billet tool heads. While they add bling, are easy on the eyes and chicks dig them I think it is just a visual effect. The billet may me stronger than its cast twin, I believe you will flex your platform before you flex the cast or billet head. Tool marks are horrific and downright offensive on a otherwise good looking head. The big negative for me is the new billet heads are actually more sloppy than the original cast ones. Would be nice if they milled them a little oversize so one can hand fit the tongue flange for a nice snug fit. I for one do not subscribe to the claim of a loose tolerance made for better feeding. I believe they are made loose so they will fit in every machine and they don't have to hold tight tolerance's in the manufacturing process. Never the less the look good just not worth the price for me to buy more. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

Here is how I roll with .223 on the 650. There are many ways to do it but this works for me. .223 setup on xl650 My set-up is as follows. . . Decaping tool head Station 1 - Lee universal decapping die. Station 2 - Empty naked to the wind Station 3 - Empty naked to the wind Station 4 - Empty naked to the wind Station 5 - Empty naked to the wind Wet Tumble brass LUBE Brass with shine version of DCL Brass prep tool head Station 1 - Dillon .223 Carbide Sizing/Decapping Die Station 2 - Empty naked to the wind Station 3 - Dillon 1200b Trimmer with custom insert pin and attach vacuum. Station 4 - Empty naked to the wind Station 5 - Lyman M Die -set to knock of any inside burr and put a extreme very slight flare in less than .002 Dry Tumble to remove lube as there is no more sizing to do. Hornady pocket ream primer pockets if necessary. Loading tool head Station 1 - Lee Universal Decapping Die to clear flash hole of any debri. Station 2 - Seat primer, drop powder Station 3 - Dillon Powder Check Station 4 - Redding Competition Pro Seating Die Station 4 - Lee Factory Crimp Die to take out the slight flare from the M die without crimping. Without a doubt get the case feeder and plates. Quick change tool head kits for every caliber make the swap over fast and maintain your die and powder/flare settings. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

I keep them until they split or can't hold a primer. The ones that are not easy on the eyes are shot in private and I leave them where they lie when done. Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

The fundamental difference between the two is Dillon does not touch the case wall. The Lee has a carbide ring in the base that is approximately .005ths larger than the sizing ring. This carbide ring will only size the very bottom of the case towards the head if your sizing die doesn't get close enough, this is to guaranty it will fit a case gauge by removing any bulge by the head. I just set the crimp to remove the flare and no more. I use the LFC die on all my tool heads. Dillion's taper crimp die has a very nice smooth gradual taper. Adjusting crimp is not so nice. The LFC die has a short taper insert that can stick a little to the brass and leave a little ring mark on the mouth of the case. Polish up the the insert where it contacts the case mouth makes it smoother. Adjusting the crimp is very nice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the replies. After an exhaustive extensive research I settled on the carbide .223 die. I know I will never outlast the die other then maybe crack the carbide insert, but other than that I chose it because of the ease of force needed and the less likeliness of getting a stuck cartridge. In the whole scheme of things it is relatively inexpensive when I compare all the other reloading paraphernalia I have from Dillon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk