David Olhasso

Interesting views that many have on sights and other modifications in production. A division that I believe was intended to be a "bring what you got" division has been messed up by those that must make restrictive rules that they think "level the playing field". The bottom line is that many of the rules concerning production division are BS. 1) Any combat capable type sight should be allowed. All of my carry/defense guns have trijicon sights on them. If the gun doesn't come with trijicons, I put them on. Other people prefer fiber optic. Still others prefer plain black target. And some may even want an adjustable sight. Since a sight is typically an off the shelf item and can usually be installed by the shooter themself, why would any sight replacement not be legal in production? Why are my completely practical carry guns, with completely practical sights, potentially not legal because they might not come from the factory they way I set them up. Again, just stupid rules. 2) De-horn/carry bevel jobs should be allowed. So my Sig 229 with a bobbed hammer and carry bevel job is not legal in production? Why do some consider my completely practical modifications to my 229 an unfair advantage in production? Give me a break. 3) Any grip replacement should be allowed. It is amazing that I cannot recontour a glock grip, nor on a metal gun replace the factory plastic grips with wood ones, but I can put all the skateboard tape I want on the slide, frame, and grip of a production gun. Skateboard tape is NOT practical for a duty type gun, but replacing the factory grips is!! And the idea that "if the factory sells the part" then it is OK to use is stupid. Just because one factory decides to sell a 3rd party hogue grip while another doesn't shouldn't make it legal for one and not the other! 4) The XD is not a production gun? Give me a break. I know it is technically a single action, but based on the other guns allowed in the division, how can the XD not be allowed? Hmm... Maybe the way the rule is written is the problem and not the XD? just my opinions. I'm sure plenty of people will tell my why I am wrong.

I concur with the Gorilla. Blade-Tech Dropped & offset holster.

My wife and I were at the local indoor shop/range and I saw this guy with what looked like a space gun to me at the time. He was drawing from a holster, shooting 4 shots at what seemed full auto speed, performing an amazing reload, and then shooting another 4 shots in the blink of an eye. I saw that he was shooting at brown cardboard at 10 to 12 yards so I figured he was peppering the paper with sporatic hits. When he pulled in his targets, I saw that he had two targets with the centers covered by hundreds of tan stickers. After I saw that, I was hooked. I had never seen a match and knew nothing about the sport. All I knew is that I wanted to be able to shoot as fast and as accurate as that guy could. He taught me well.

1-How often does this happen? 2-Is the Primer Station Retain Tab (#12930) properly adjusted. 3-Are you using military brass? 4-Are you using Federal primers? If so, then #2 and #3 above are VERY important. 5-Are you sure you are using the small primer slide (#20317) rather than the large primer slide? 6-Are you using the correct shellplate for the brass?

Carry at least five on the Belt.

1. Read Brian's Dillon Reloader faq. 2. Save your money and buy a 650 (with the casefeeder!). 3. If you shoot one caliber ALOT, save alot of money and buy a 1050.

Yes this one has a very difficult HF. 100% open: between 10.4 and 10.6 100% limited/lim-10: between 9.1 and 9.3 100% production: between 8.73 and 8.75 admin edit: David, USPSA doesn't want the high hit factors posted (pretty silly, I think). We don't want to get BE in trouble with Sedro, so I am going to do some creative editing. Kyle F.

1.165 for a 9mm JHP is WAY too long. For the zero 147, 1.10 to 1.13 is about right. I wouldn't worry about a devation of .005 at all.

Get a 40. A 135pf 40sw load is sweet to shoot. And yes, having a idpa gun that can backup your limited gun is a great idea.

.16 splits at 25 yards -- all C's or better? At 10 yards maybe, but at 25? Even with an open gun! Those aren't splits you will see on my timer.

The best compromise is the Adidas GSG-9 or something similar. Cleats are good when the ground is soft and wet, but stinks on hard dirt or wood. Also makes standing on fault like scarry. Hiking boots or better on dirt or wood, but can slip & slide in wet grass. Smooth soled shoes like tennis shoes are best for indoor ranges. The GSG-9 has a sole similar to an indoor soccer cleat. They do well on dirt, grass, wet grass, concrete, and DRY wood. Wet wood is still quite scarry. The mid height boot gives good ankle support without the weight or stiffness of a true boot. They are acceptably water proof and most people feel they are durable enough.

A big match is NOT like any other match. That is why it is called a big match! Don't try anything new or different. Local matches are for experimenting, not big matches. Don't try engaging a target on the move at a distance you have never done. Don't try copying the GM who is engaging half a target from an awkward position. Don't try to burn down every stage. Never shoot at 100% of your ability. Don't shoot at 70% of your ability either. Realize that the match is longer than a typical local match. Realize that with more rounds, the results of a single stage matter much less. Don't worry about the next stage or the previous one. Concentrate on the stage at hand. Treat each stage the same way you treat a stage at your local match, but only shoot at 85-90% of your ability. You will be amazed at where you place if you shoot at 90% of your ability and don't have any misses or no-shoots!! Have fun.... Its only a game

I switched to the Beretta mostly because I do not lock my 226 back on the last round. My traditional 1911 grip and meaty hands do a great job of holding the Sig slide stop down and preventing lock-back. In IDPA, a 100% lock back is essential. In IPSC, a 100% lock back in a 10-round division gives you one more "tool" in the toolbox. I understand that Sig may be working on a new slide stop and grip to prevent shooters from stopping the slide lock.

Interesting: I was the first GM in production division and that was 100% with my SIG 226 (aluminum frame and all). I guess that I have 20k to 25k rounds each of my 226s. They are both utterly reliable and shoot much better groups than I can. The only thing to ever break on my Sigs was an extractor that wore out and one of the roll pins holding the firing pin/extractor block in the slide. This year I am shooting a Beretta Vertec which also has an aluminum frame. No problems yet. If you are shooting 130pf loads, you change your recoil spring when it gets worn, and you keep you gun lubricated, then I see no reason why an aluminum framed gun cannot last for at least 70 or 80 thousand rounds. Of course, some will break at 5k rounds and some won't break to 500k rounds, but I believe the neither is the norm.

The HILL sucks. It will kill an overweight 30 something shooter. Avoid the HILL. Rent a golf cart or at least bring a wagon. Drink lots of water. Use bug spray. The stages will probably not be over difficult, but they won't be easy either. It is Hot, Cold, sunny, clowdy, rainy, humid and dry in Barry during July. Have at least one butterfly pork sandwich. Sunblock 30 or better. Don't miss!

If you shoot USPSA production, then I suggest promag 10-round mags. They are cheap and work nicely. For Holsters, I have always preferred Blade-Tech. For production, the dropped & offset is fantastic.

egw sear, 21lb mainspring, 1.5lb trigger. done by George at EGW.

As a non-pro GM, I really hate the idea of creating yet another class or designation. Even worse, I hate the idea of forcing me to pay more to compete in a match. I know that there are many better GMs than me out there. When I go to a big match, I know that there are a large group of GMs that I have almost no chance of beating. I still go to those matches even though I know I won't win. If you were to force me to pay more to shoot those matches, there would be one less GM attending.

Try the Sig 226 9mm (the ST if you want a really heavy gun) or Try a Beretta 92 variant (either the straight Vertec grip or the traditional grip) or Try the LDA in 9mm or 40. Each have their pro's and con's but all are great SSP/production guns.

TiteGroup: Very Accurate, Very snappy. 320: Accurate, somewhat snappy Clays: OK accuracy, soft shooting. All meter and chrono acceptably. No reason to use anything but small rifle primers in a competition 40.

I have fairly large hands and on every handgun I shoot, I always adjust my grip to hit the mag release. For a while I had a button on my sti which allowed me to hit the button w/out adjusting my grip, but it ended up costing me too much when I had "thumb freeze": you know that feeling when the thumb is on the button, you are pushing as hard as the awkward postion will allow, but the mag just won't start dropping.

I haven't shot the p99 in production, but I have shot production with a Beretta Elite II and a Beretta Vertec. Both berettas I have shot were great in production. The only drawbacks with the 92fs are the sights and the slide mounted safety. If you always remember to flip the safety off once you drop your hammer and the sights don't bother you, then the beretta is perfect.

I saw a 5lb yesterday at the NE IDPA championship. I believe it was GB Custom (bgcustom@odyssey.net). By the way, this match was awesome!

It sounds like a cool match with great stages and a fantastic prize table. Unfortunately all shooters shoot each day, and many people just can't justify 3 days worth of hotel, car rental, and at least some missed work for a non-nationals match.

Forward falling poppers suck. They always suck. Any mechanical device intended to make then not suck will not work. Forward falling poppers that activate moving targets suck more. A match which has a stage in which 4 targets are all activated by the same forward falling popper also sucks. Just my humble opinion.