pskys2

Revolver Neutral as in everyone shoots a Revolver. Courses are standard you will have to think and plan to try to get only 6 shots at each position. And then I'm sure Sam will come up with some where it's impossible. It's not like an ICORE COF where they make it so you can shoot the course without a standing reload, there will be many standing reloads, but everyone will be doing them.

If the trigger feels like it is stacking, gets heavier, at the end of the stroke it could be not enough arch in the mainspring. A longer strain screw would most likely fix it. Severe cases of the mainspring not being arched can lead to the mainspring knuckling and and actually freezing the action at the end of the stroke. However if you feel a drag or hitch in the trigger stroke, are getting light strikes and the longer strain screw doesn't help. You may need to pull the side plate off and check it for broken pins. I've had the hammer pin and trigger pins break on various Smith Revolvers and they can cause some weird pulls. To check the pins just put the tip of your finger on them and see if they wiggle. They will bend if you put too much pressure on them, but they shouldn't wiggle around.

I've seen a couple of the JM's with rough chambers/sticky extraction, check that. Other than that whichever is cheapest/best deal would be the one to go with. I have a PC625 with the 5.25" sculpted barrel and shorter cylinder and see no advantage other than it came with a "Classic" Front Sight base, which means you can pop the sight out without tools.

Had both and used extensively, go with the Blade Tech. Then use a Dremel to shape it to your style.

Hmmm, interesting thought. Being a descendant of the Clan MacGregor and Keith/Dickson would make it fun. McGrgrTarTan.bmp McGrgr Crest.bmp

Think I have a Weigand Replacement Blade?

The FP is retained by a pin thru the side of the frame, need to take the sideplate off, on earlier versions. As Bob said it looks like they might have changed it on these models. If it does retain the FP when you pull it out you can then remove the FP & Spring from the rear.

Hey Joe, want to sell or trade that Millet?

I actually stripped out a couple of Sight Screw Studs and had a Millet split the threaded bushing once. I kept trying to use a .250 FS, it was just so close to being right! But alas had to get the .300 and it worked fine. If you are bottomed out on the threads, there still will be daylight under the sight. If it's still hitting high you may just have to go the next FS taller. Most 5" work with a .360 Rear and a .300 FS though.

If they are tumbling you will usually see a profile of the nose of the bullet, those pix look like a tear. Revo shooters swear by Clays, always liked it in a 1911 also. You can go down to .468 for Taper Crimping without problems with Jacketed Bullets, you'll start seeing bulged cases if you go too tight. With Plated Bullets you can cause problems with too tight of a crimp that results in cutting thru the plating.

Had a Caspian Wide Body in the 90's so they may have changed since then. If they haven't it's not a drop in replacement. The Swenson is made to fit under the grips, and the Caspian I had actually had a notch milled into the frame for the offside retaining arm. You might be able to whittle one down, but I don't think the spacing is the same. Call Caspian and ask them to be sure.

Even experienced RO's make mistakes, you are commended for stepping up and trying. It's always stressful to DQ anyone and you must be sure it is warranted. But when it is, you have to be quick and deliberate. Might be that a DQ with the first guy would have resulted in the others being more careful. Luckily no one discharged a round. Once had a competitor discharge a round while reloading and it looked to me that it went over the berm. No hesitation on my part, he was done. Even though he didn't believe, and argued, he had not done it. Remember the competitor can argue that what he did was or was not a penalty or dq'able action. He can't argue your statement of what you say he did. Learn from what you think you did wrong and work to be better. An RO Class will help you both as a Competitor and a Club Member. Good Luck.

Late timing is due to Hand/Ratchet wear. When shooting at the speed most of us do, late timing isn't a problem. It usually shows up when you go real slow, and/or try to stage the trigger, for those pesky long shots!

This is for a standard extractor not an Aftec, or some springloaded design. Unless you like to drop a round in the chamber and then drop the slide, once it's set it usually will last at least thru a heavy shooting season. I've seen several methods but the minimum is to take the slide off, barrel out and push a round under the extractor. Then rotate the slide and the round should not move. I took an old empty case and drilled a hole in it, put in a piece of mechanics wire with a loop at the end to hook to a trigger scale. There is a recommended pound rating for the case to pull out, 26 ounces. Weigand even makes a gauge and Brownells sells it. Check here for more info. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=10261/learn/1911_Auto_Extractor_Adjustment

Check the Extractor tension, it may be letting the case slip down and contact the follower. Or your feed lips are spread too far and the follower is sitting too high. Use the search engine to look for Tuning Mags.

I used 4.2 Titegroup with the Missouri 230 grain bullet at 1.255 OAL for 743f/s. They are supposed to be a bit softer than most of the commercial loaders. Didn't notice anything bad. All lead bullets will smoke, under certain weather conditions, or indoors, it can be pretty noticable. 3.7 Clays gave the same velocity. All in a 1911.

I just ordered the Ranier 200 RN and was wondering what OAL you use? I load with Titegroup and will start at the lower end of the lead load data per their reccomendations. 1.240 to 1.250 OAL. With 5.4 Titegroup I was getting 875 f/s in a 1911.

I had good luck with 4.2 Clays and 1.240 for 767 f/s. Start at 4.0 Clays and go up, should just make major, watch for any pressure signs as you work up. If you aren't going to a major match where they chrono, you should be OK with 4.0.

With the barrel out, put the slide stop thru the link and make sure it seats squarely on the barrel lugs. You should be able to then wiggle the link, it should not be tight enough that the link can't move. Then if it runs, it should be ok for a few more rounds, think Manny makes you shoot a couple of thousand. I'd keep the old link and put it back in afterwards when sending it back to STI.

Just curious what is the weight differences of Standard Wood (not slimlines) and G10? Had Pachmayr on my Caspian Race Ready w/std guide rod and it came in at about 42 oz. but my scale isn't very accurate. Put on a pair of old chopped up wood grips and the weight fell to 39 oz. much more comfortable within the weight restriction. But I want a decent pair to put on, wood or G10?

Sounds like Josey Wales or Blondie in the Good, Bad and Ugly!

You're in Mesa, Az. Start visiting, joining Rio Salado or other local matches. Help, watch, talk and I'd bet in a short while you'll be offered a rig to borrow for a match, with some training. Then you can see what they actually are using. Mesa is home to a big USPSA club with lots of top shooters. Be humble ask a few questions and listen intently.

No. Too light can cause frame battering. You can use different weights to affect the way the pistol settles from each shot. But it won't have any affect on muzzle velocity. Of course taken to extremes, say 3 or 4 pounds and that's a guess as I don't have a clue what the minimum weight would be that would cause trouble, could allow the action to unlock prematurely and rupture the case causing lower velocity, but the velocity drop would be the least of your problems then.

Yes. Structured Valid Practice is the best, work on fundamentals don't do courses, etc... The difference between doing ok point shooting and consciously seeing the front sight is one you were doing on the sub conscious level. My best matches, big matches, were always preceded by weeks of solid practice and a week off before the match. My worst invariably came after trying to cram in practice, new techniques at the last minute. Try practicing draws with 2 shots at say 10 yds. when you can do that on demand with "A"'s smoothly, move back 5 yds. Throw in a few head shots, about every 2 mags. Keep doing that with maybe a reload thrown in when the mag is out for several weeks, then go to the next match and just shoot and have fun. Don't think of seeing the front sight, unless it's a tough shot then try to focus without thinking of it. Sooner or later it will become second nature.

Depending on the bullet/lube and the tightness of the endplay and/or the gas ring, I've had lead/lube start dragging on the cylinder. My guess that's what the problem is. I've got a M28 that does it with some bullet combo's. But my M29, which I use only 240 LRN in, and M625 don't suffer with that problem.