Cuz
-
Posts
2,309 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by Cuz
-
-
JaxShooter,
The AET barrels (especially the TiN barrels) are most common "plating cutters". The good news is that you will probably be able to shoot plated with no ill effects after "lapping" the barrel with about 2000 FMJs.
Spook,
I'm also having problems with Berry's 180gr hollow points in my SV AET Sight Tracker. I've already put about 2000 Montana Gold and another 1000 or so Zero JHPs thru it. I had been sitting on the Berry 180gr HP's until I ran out of the others, but after hearing about everyone's problems I decided to load up a 100 and test. I shot a box of 50 and they looked like a shotgun pattern on a 8x10 target at about 30 feet. Very depressing. Normally I'd have a small ragged hole at that close range. I also have some 180gr flat points that I loaded up but haven't tested yet. As soon as I test all my bullets (.38/.40/.45) I'm going to call Berry's.
-Cuz
-
Forgive my ignorance here, but...
What is the difference between the holes along the top of the barrel and a compensator? I think they're called popel(sp) holes but I'm not sure.
I see some SVI guns with a Hybrid type barrel with circular holes in the top and others with a compensator and I'm just wondering if they perform the same function. Can someone enlighten me? Is there a big difference performance wise between the two?
Thanks,
Cuz.
-
Well, like the topic description says... I'm having some weirdness on my RL550B where I have to pull the handle back about 1/2" or so to raise the ram slightly, otherwise it doesn't quite clear the primer sticking up from the primer cup. The press came w/ pre-setup small and large primer feed bars, and I haven't messed w/ either of them, but the problem is present in both small rifle (.223 Rem) and large rifle (.308 Win).
What do I need to tweak to cure this?
Thanks,
Monte
I think this may be a lubrication problem. The spring under the primer cup is no longer backing up the piston after you seat the primer. I just went thru this and ended up having to lube the arms/linkages with heavy grease. Dillon said there was an incredible amount of pressure in those parts and light oil type lubricants won't work. When this happened to me it was because my press started to stiffen up during use. After I lubed it up and ran it for a hundred rounds or so to work the grease in it returned to normal.
Just a thought...
-Cuz.
-
45, when you chrono, let me know how your load specs. I am still tinkering with loads. As stated in my first message, it is coming in just shy of major @ 160. I am going to try bumping the powder and shortening the case to 1.170.
In my SVI with AET barrel it takes 4.85gr TG to make major with a 180gr Zero JHP and an oal of 1.200.
-Cuz
-
Some more chronograph data.
Just finished the Ky State Match and here is some stats on my current load
Gun: Para 16-40 limited
Brass: WW
Primer: WSP
Powder: 5.2 gr Tightgroup
Bullet: MG Flat Point 180 gr
OAL: 1.175
Temp: 75 %
velocity: 939,943,929. Average 937. Power Factor 168.8
5.2 gr sounds pretty hot for an oal of 1.175. Does your brass show any signs of high pressure?
-Cuz
-
Congratulations Julie,
Welcome to New England. Looking forward to seeing you at the ICORE matches at S&W over the winter months.
-Cuz.
-
I've called him 3 or 4 times in the past few weeks and he's answered every time.
Very helpful when you're trying to work out a problem.
-Cuz.
-
In other news, I don't think I mentioned here, they said they are working a new process that will improve consistency. Stay tuned.
Good luck to you. Nothing is ever easy anymore...
-Cuz.
-
still tumbling, gonna send bullets, loaded ammo and pulled bullets back to Berry's early next week.
I've tried them out of four different guns with no luck, so at this point I am not willing to blame a fincky AET.
DP,
Are you sending them back so they can check them out and test? Or is it for a refund?
When you experience tumbling is it determined by the oblong holes in the target or is there some other noticeable difference? I'm sitting on 5k of the 180gr HP and may use them mostly for plate matches where I won't see any holes in the target. I'm assuming that accuracy will be noticeably off even at distances of 30ft, is this true?
Maybe I should consider sending them back and exchanging them for another bullet type that comes in double-struck, or just trade them for 45cal bullets...
-Cuz.
I'm loading up my 2nd box of 2K now. So far, all the bullets I've miked out are .401 or better. I'm thinking that the moral of the story with Berrys is to pay the extra and wait a tad extra for the double struck.So far, I'm extremely pleased and will probably order another 10 to 20K based on this.
Eric,
The hollow points aren't offered in double-struck. Have to pick a different bullet type to get those.
-Cuz.
-
DirtyPool,
Any update on the tunbling rounds???
-Cuz.
-
Who/Where is the best source for Para .40 Limited mags?
How many rounds are you getting and what parts are you using?
Who can tune them?
Sold my production gun, and I am going to us my 35% off certificate to get a Para Limited and want to know the best source for mags.
I've gotten a bunch from Dawson Precision and never had a problem. With his +2 extensions I can easily fit 20 in a mag. No tuning was necessary, they worked perfectly right from day one. Join his shooters club for $5 and get 5% off your purchases and free shipping. Can't beat it.
-Cuz.
-
The paperclip thing is the key. It needs to hold the case in the shell plate, and cannot cock or skew it at all.
Now why didn't that occur to me??? I just installed the EGW-U die about a month ago and have been crushing every 25th case ever since. Gotta look into that...
I knew I shouldn't have suffered in silence.
-Cuz.
-
Yes! 1320 ft. Finally. Whoa, I've been playing this stupid game for the last 45 minutes!
-
I'm an amateur. Couldn't even break a 1000 ft.
Gotta go practice some more...
-
My "normal" standard deviation is 4-10 for 40 cal major Limited loads with mixed brass and 6-12 in 9mm major Open loads with mixed brass. My minor 9mm loads run 4-6.
You can drop them down using one brand of brass, good metering powders, smooth press operation, and an EGW U die to get consistant case tension.
How many strings are you measuring this across? How many rounds per string?
I ran 5 strings of 10 rounds each. My Standard Dev. runs between 10 and 22. My Extreme Spread runs between 37 and 84. Is that "normal" for a load using mixed brass?
I don't want to have to measure every charge. With Titegroup powder my 550B powder measure should be pretty accurate and relatively consistent. Although I do notice quite a drop off depending on how much powder is in the hopper. I try to keep it around 3/4 full all the time.
-Cuz.
Making Major, I want an avg. of 170. No round should be under 165pf.Been running the same load for 5 years. I go to chrono with confidance. Heard lots of whining about "slow chrono's" at some matches. No problem for me.
You won't be able to tell the difference between 167, and 170pf, until you get minored.
Are you shooting strings of 10 rounds? Are you shooting a 40 or 45? With my limited gun in 40 cal and a 180gr bullet it's tough to average 944fps (170pf) and have no rounds dip below 917fps (165pf). Plus, then I get some rounds up near 1000fps which seems dangerous. I've checked some of my fired casings and some of the primers have a small ring around the indent from the firing pin. Is this a sign of high pressure?
-Cuz.
-
Thanks for the info. That solves part of it. Now what is "normal" for an extreme spread and standard deviation?
-Cuz.
-
Ok, I've got the chrono and I've checked my loads. What am I supposed to be looking for?
What is an acceptable "extreme spread" and "standard deviation"?
How can I influence either of those measurements?
As best I can tell they are a function of my Dillon powder measure.
I'm loading 40 caliber, 180 gr JHP (Zero's at the moment), and am using mixed brass, fired once or twice. I know I can clean things up by using only one brand of brass, but that's just not an option right now.
Also, is it just the average velocity that needs to make Major? Or should all shots in a string be above Major?
I just need to know what I should be striving for now that I have a chrono.
Any help at all is greatly appreciated.
Also, is there a picture of what primer flowback looks like? I can't find it.
-Cuz
-
Remove the safety and grip safety. Pull the mainspring housing out. Place the spring where it's supposed to be, insuring that the hammer strut is on top of it, of course. Hold it in place with one hand. With the other hand, slide the mainspring housing in part way - this will hold the sear spring in place. Re-install the grip safety and then the safety. Push the mainspring housing into place, insuring that that hammer strut sits properly on top of the mainspring cap.
Sounds like you're trying to fit things together in a real tricky order and making it a lot harder on yourself
Ok, I didn't know I was supposed to be removing the safety and grip safety. I did get it in after another half-hour of messing with it. I think I'll try your method next time.
Thanks,
-Cuz.
-
Ok, I give up. I need advice. I've got an SVI Limited gun and I'm trying to work thru some mag problems that keep sticking. During this testing I've had to remove the sear spring for a number of reasons. Each time it takes forever to get the damn thing back in. What am I doing wrong? SVI just sent me a new one to try, but it's taken me 30 minutes and I still can't seem to get the stupid part installed. What am I missing? The slide is off, with frame upside down, but everytime the middle "finger" keeps going in front of the trigger bow instead of behind it. When I stick a screwdriver thru the mag well to push the finger behind while inserting it then the taller outside finger gets stuck behind the grip safety and won't budge. I did get it installed twice before, but don't remember which of the 100 methods I tried worked. What gives??? I know it has to be easier than this.
-Cuz.
-
Great stuff here guys. I've been wondering this for some time but couldn't seem to figure it out. I think I've got it now, but will save these posts to re-read a few times.
-Cuz
-
Nice piece. Great to have some good gun publicity on TV.
-Cuz.
-
Thanks for the input. Are you saying the light fixture stays screwed to the plastic screen? Out of the box it looks like those tiny screws won't stay screwed into the side of the screens. A better design may have had the screws going in front to back instead of the sides.
The CED is a nice unit, but it's a bit more than I want to spend when you factor in the infra-red screens.
-Cuz.
-
I know there's a ton of info on this sight about chronographs, but I'm looking for one that will be used strictly indoors. The indoor lighting kit is a little different for each manufacture of chronograph. Can anyone offer any advice on which one is better? Or, if not better (since that's subjective), how about just durable? I just rec'd a Shooting Chrony Beta Master chrono, and while the chrono itself seems like it would work ok, the screens and lighting kit don't look like they'd last more than two trips to the range. Is anyone using this kit? I'm going to try and return it.
Can anyone offer any advice on which chronys have better indoor lighting kits?
Thanks,
-Cuz
-
I don't know any Windows users...
be
Wow... It's sure been a long time since I've heard that...
-Cuz.
Not That It Matters, But I'll Be Seeing Ya.
in Revolver Forum
Posted
Hop,
Actually that's not true. I've read many of your posts and they never confused me at all. In fact I actually found them helpful and useful. So unless you were really trying to confuse me and screw up my revolver game you must be mistaken about your inabilities. So maybe some times on a particular subject you may actually care deeply enough about to want to help someone you can't find a way to type it all up so it reads the way you mean it to. You know what I do when that happens? I send them my cell # and ask them to call if they want to discuss a topic in more depth. Sometimes you can say in 10 seconds more than you can type in 30 minutes. In any case, I'll miss your posts.
-Cuz.