Cuz
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Posts posted by Cuz
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Last I spoke to Larry he said he contacted headquarters and they said it was OK to post on the clubs website. I also have an email from Dave Thomas indicating I can make copies of the video (the clubs got copies on DVD) so long as I give them away fro FREE. At about $.50 a DVD it is a great way to introduce new shooters to the sport.
How can I get a copy on DVD? Can I order a copy direct from USPSA?
-Cuz.
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Thanks for the info. I'll keep these numbers handy.
-Cuz.
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Can someone tell me what the max oal is that will function reliably in a Glock 34? In my 40 calibers it seemed to be more of a function of what oal would work reliably in the magazines. Is this also true of the 9mm? I'm looking for a MINOR PF load that I can shoot in both a Glock and an STI. I'm figuring 3.8 - 4.0 gr TiteGroup and a 124gr Berry's RN bullet.
Thanks,
Cuz.
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On a 34, before anything else, get a decent set of sights to replace the factory plastic.
What are the preferred sights to install in a Glock 34? I mean other than Dawsons?
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Thanks for all the info. I already shoot Zero and Montana Gold bullets in 40 cal, but want plated bullets for the 9mm since jacketed aren't allowed at some of the ranges I shoot at. I was avoiding the 147gr bullets to keep the cost down. That's kind of why I'm going to 9mm to begin with. I'm looking to get a Glock 34 to get a little extra sight radius. I figure all I need to do is switch the sights and I'll be good to go. I'm hoping it will be plenty accurate for the local plate matches.
-Cuz.
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John Johnson
702 645-7542
email:brassmanbrass@cox.net
Thank you.
-Cuz.
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Checked it just now. Seems to be working just fine.
Bill
Then it must be a DNS issue or some other problem with my ISP.
Could you please get me the guys phone # or email address? I remember his last name was Johnson, but I can't remember his first name.
Thanks,
-Cuz.
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I can't get to the www.brassmanbrass.com website anymore. Actually it's been about a month or longer since it stopped working. Anyone else having problems getting there?
Can someone give me a phone or email address for them?
Thanks,
Cuz.
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Thanks for the input. I was leaning toward the 124gr bullets but wanted to hear what others had to say. So far I will go with 124gr at least for my first 5000 bullets.
-Cuz.
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Help, I have to make a decision in order to get in on a bulk purchase deal. I don't even have my 9mm handgun yet but I'm planning to buy 5,000 bullets. How do I decide which bullet weight to go with? I'm planning on two 9mm pistols, a Glock 34 and an SVI/STI 2011 type with 5 inch barrel. I plan to use them for steel plate matches and Production class USPSA matches as well. Any advice is greatly appreciated as I need to make a decision in the next week.
Thanks,
Cuz.
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Is anyone else having problems getting magazines to drop free on their Ruger MK III? I've been told it has to do with the magazine disconnector safety but would like to confirm if this is true. I've checked a few other shooters guns with the same result. None of the magazines drop free if the slide is locked back. Anyone know of any info to remove or disable this function to get the mags to drop free?
Thanks,
-Cuz.
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Im have been using the 124 gr. plated bullets at ca 1050 to1100 fps without any problems. I prefer the 147 gr. plated bullets at ca. 900 fps, they seem to be more accurate in my guns and knock the plates over more easilly.
Thanks for the info. I was hoping to stay with the 115 or 124 gr because they were a few bucks cheaper. I figure if it's just for plates, why not save the money. That savings alone would cover the cost of powder!
-Cuz.
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Sounds to me like one tight ratchet, because of the slop of the cylinder on the yoke you need to take a moon clip with some spent rounds and stuff it in cylinder then carefully check each cylinder for bind on DA stroke and bind on the trigger return. That one cylinder that is freezing sometimes needs a little taken off the ratchet.
Coat it with majic marker, then dry fire, then inspect and you'll see the shiny spot where you have to take off a little. Use a small hand file.
Would that be the very same spot on the ratchet's where Jerry Miculek says in his video to never touch???
I'm too chicken to mess with the ratchets. I'm thinking I'll just leave it out of time for now since it's only a little off. Since all my shooting with it is pins/plates/uspsa type action shooting I don't think it will matter. I will keep an eye on it to see if it gets worse or not.
-Cuz.
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The trigger freeze started happening when I replaced the original hand with a standard size replacement from S&W. It only happens on one cylinder, and not every time. It's not the cylinder stop because I've specifically watched to make sure. As best I can tell it's the hand moving up to engage the ratchet and getting stuck rather than rotate the cylinder. It's like the hand is hitting the ratchet too close to the center and jamming into it rather than sliding off to the right and rotating the cylinder. Does that make any sense? It's just enough to throw off my shot when I'm shooting because of the slight hitch when firing. Don't really know how else to explain it. I did go back and install the original hand that came with the gun today to test and it fires fine, but the gun is out of time. S&W also sent me an oversized hand to try which I was going to install today when I discovered it didn't fit. I thought I'd ask about which side to stone before touching it.
How much play should there be for the hand in the window of the frame? Should it be a tight fit or a loose fit?
Thanks,
-Cuz.
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Hello,
I'm trying to replace the hand on my 625 to correct a timing/trigger freeze problem. I just found out that oversized means too wide to fit thru the slot in the frame. I'm guessing I just need to stone it down a bit to make it fit. My question is does it matter which side I stone? I'm assuming it does. One side is going to be much easier to stone because it's completely flat. The other side has the three pins sticking out that go into the trigger. I'm hoping it's the easy flat side I'm supposed to stone, but my luck doesn't normally run that way.
Any help/advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
-Cuz.
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The untrained, sane, human brain doesn't think "KILL" first. The untrained, sane, human brain will think "PROTECT" first. A solid, trained, soldier or L.E. officer would probably think "KILL" the attacker rather that "PROTECT" the victim but not the average person. I guarantee that when the attack began all that entered Bruces mind was "I have to protect Buddy" not "I have to kill that Pitbull". when the only way to protect Buddy was to draw and shoot that is what he did because it was still about protecting his friend.
Bruces actions were totally normal and he did absolutely nothing wrong.
I have extreme training in attacking aggression with extreme prejudice therefore I know that if I were walking my dog Ben or walking with my 5 y.o. son and some Pitbull came at us I would shoot the Pitbull first but I know that if my wife were walking down the road with my 5 y.o. and a Pitbull came at them she would get between them by grabbing up my son rather than drawing her gun and killing the aggressor
Well said. I agree. I guess that's why I go over these types of scenarios in my mind quite often. I'm always thinking about how I should/would react in such situations. Of course, you never know until it happens and then you rarely do what you thought you would do.
-Cuz.
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Nemo,
Please, Please, Please don't think I'm trying to be a jerk, but I've read your post and I have a question. I also walk my dog on occasion, and often am out walking with my two small children (or playing with them in the park) so I've given this (or similar scenarios) some thought. At the first sight of a charging pit bull or other ferocious dog coming my way I would have my hand on my gun and would place myself between the animal and my kids/pet. The dog would have only a few seconds to decide on a course of action. At the very first sign of agression I would shoot it. I know it's not really fair to the animal but I don't care. I would rather shoot the dog and deal with the consequences than ever allow it to sink it's teeth into my loved ones.
Also, I've watched dogs fight before. Once the pit bull engaged Buddy why wouldn't you use the gun right from the start to try and break up the fight rather then step into the middle of it? I'm assuming part of the reason is because when this stuff happens it tends to happen real fast and often times rehearsed plans go to crap. Usually the whole mess is already over before your brain can even process what just happened. I only ask because I want to try and learn from the mishap.
-Cuz.
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Cuz,
What are the size of the floor joists and will the safe be over or near a support beam/wall?
Rich
Floor joists are 2x8 (or more like 1.5x7).
Cuz, over on thehighroad.org there are some good discussions on safes with participation from a couple of safe dealers. They discuss ratings, thickness and so on. Covered a TON of things I didn't know about safes.Thanks. I'll check it out.
Pier & Beam house..? Crawl under there with a few cinderblocks and some 4x4s and shore that puppy up a little where the safe is to sit. $30.00 worth of materials, a friend and a 12 pack should get it done in an hour... of actual work.
Pier & Beam??? Here in New England we have good old fashioned basements. In fact, the basement under where I want to put the safe is already finished so I won't be able to support it with a jack support either.
Thanks for all the info. After reading thru the replies I now agree that extra money for the 3/16 walls is not worth it. Better to put the money into fire protection. Then I can also keep valuable photos and other documents in the safe as well. I'll go with 10ga.
Also, I went looking thru my basement and found that in one corner of the room I've selected there is a beam running under the floor joists that should provide extra support to help prevent sagging. It wasn't my first choice location but I think it will work out ok.
Thanks,
-Cuz.
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I'm looking for a new safe. I'm trying to determine if I need to step up to 3/16" sides or if 10ga walls are strong enough?
Also, how much weight is too much for the first floor of a normal New England stick built home approximately 30 years old? I know that's a real hard question to answer, but I'm just wondering if a 1200 pound safe is too much weight for the floor to support. Any help anyone can provide is appreciated.
Thanks,
Cuz.
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www.brassmanbrass.com has 1000 9mm fo $18 + shipping
I can't get to his website. Is anyone else having problems or is it local to me?
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In order to run factory length 9mm in an STI 9/38Super magazine you need a caliber specific follower and a spacer that fits behind the follower against the back of the magazine.
Does this spacer come with the magazine?
If I order a 9mm mag from Dawson do I need to tell him I want to run factory ammo so I'll get a different follower and the spacer???
Thanks,
-Cuz.
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I've run Rainier 124s at around 1350fps for years with zero problems.
Is accuracy the same as jacketed bullets? USPSA accuracy is much more forgiving than steel plate accuracy.
-Cuz.
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Thanks for the info guys.
What do you mean by the "spacer"?
-Cuz.
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I'm trying to get a feeling as to the reliability of STI 9mm mags off the shelf. Do they work or do they need to be tuned?
I have some Bevin tuned and some Dawson tuned 40 cal mags that are flawless. The Dawson's came tuned and worked since day one. The ones Bevin tuned didn't work until he tuned them.
Do I have to go thru all this for the 9mm mags too? I plan to use the 126mm size so that's all I'm concerned about right now.
Thanks,
-Cuz
G34 Or G35 With 9mm Conversion Barrel?
in Glock
Posted
Help. I was about to buy a Glock 34, when it was pointed out to me that I should consider a G35 with a 9mm conversion barrel. Is there a big (or any) difference between them? I must admit it would be nice to be able to go back and forth between the 9mm and 40cal with just a quick barrel swap. Does the barrel have to be fitted? Or are the Storm Lake barrels for about $100 a drop in fit?
Would I also need to swap out recoil springs as well? Not that it would be a big deal.
I guess my question is if there is any difference between the G34 and a G35 with a 9mm barrel conversion?
Thanks,
-Cuz.