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Cuz

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Posts posted by Cuz

  1. So now to the question. How can I clean the internals of the gun without taking it apart. How about the polymer safe stuff???? with the straw to shoot it down in there. Or should I just take it apart and clean it???

    How often do you completely tear down the gun to clean it??

    Flyin40

    I've never taken mine apart that far. Are you supposed to strip it down past the regular "field stripping"?

    -Cuz.

  2. Let me know next time we are shooting together I will go over it with you. (maybe Bass River first Sunday??)

    For now, super glue works great grinning-smiley-026.gif

    Thanks RGS. Not sure I'll be able to make it to Bass River. Unless the weather is bad, then I may be free.

    I noticed you beat me at Manville. It's not fair, without being there to heckle you I can't have any negative affect on your score. :)

    -Cuz.

    I use liberal doses of slide glide on all the internal moving parts.

    I think BE developed it for wheelguns but named it slide glide so the bottomfeeders wouldn't feel left out :D

    Works for me.

    Dave

    Hmm, I hadn't thought of Slide Glide. I just switched to using fully synthetic motor oil (5w30) for lubing my autos and I guess my revo too. Someone recommended it to me and it seemed to make sense. Especially when you can get a quart for under $5. That'll last a long time.

    -Cuz

  3. Plano boxes are the best things I've found. The number 3700 holds 22 eight shot moons. I use the 3600 for my 625 moons.

    Wallmart also sells a knock off brand that work just as well.

    +1 on the Plano 3600 boxes. I can put 30 loaded clips in them and they fit nicely in the side pocked of my Dillon range bag. Round_Gun_Shooter turned me on to them a few months ago and I couldn't be happier. You can get them at Dicks Sporting goods for $3 if you have one around you.

    -Cuz.

  4. Do to recent events, I found myself without an open gun to shoot. So I decided to go through the collection and find something to shoot at this weekends USPSA match. I have a Model 19 4" and decided that I'd try my hand at this round gun thing. I caleld up Chris @ Ready Tactical and he sent me out a holster & speedloader holders. He made the holster that day and sent it the next. Talk about service!

    You must be a righty. Us leftys can never get a holster that quick. Nobody ever has anything in stock and it's almost always a special order... :)

    I also shot my first USPSA match today with a wheelgun. I've been toying with it for the past month, and since this was going to be a qualifier match I figured it was the perfect opportunity to shoot it and get qualified at the same time. Of course I don't think I did as well as I'd hoped but I must say it was more fun than I thought. I may have to split time between Revo and Limited now...

    -Cuz.

  5. Thanks for all the input guys; I certainly didn't expect to get this much feedback. I want to look it over and will probably offer him $40 for it since its an old unit.

    Doug

    That would be reasonable especially since it's no longer servicable by Dillon.

    Then you could use it till it breaks and by that time you'll know for sure if you need to replace it with a big one or a smaller one.

    -Cuz.

  6. New or used, the big Dillon is the only tumbler you should consider. It's next in line on my list. My max purchasing threshold on used electronics that are out of warranty is 50%. And that would only be for something that is in outstanding condition.

    The only reloading decision I ever regretted was not going for the bigger tumbler. A bigger tumbler means you can wait longer before you have to tumble brass. As it is now with my small one I put it off until the last minute and then tumble about 10 loads consecutively. That works out to about one solid 2 or 3 day weekend of tumbling every other month. It's been working perfectly for the past 10 years. I almost wish the darn thing would break so I could replace it with a bigger one. I hate to replace something that works fine.

    Get the biggest one you can afford and don't look back. Based on what Dillon said about the model you are considering I would pass unless you can score it for around $40 max. Otherwise put the money towards a new one.

    -Cuz.

  7. Nemo, my "main" 625 is exactly what you described. It's a 625-6. MIM guts, frame-mounted firing pin, no lock. Some people have reported seeing 625-6s that still have the hammer-nose, so apparently they're not all the same.

    (BTW, I wouldn't worry too much about the lock, it comes out easy!)

    Besides, you will need that hole in the side of the frame to install Randy Lee's cylinder release for lefties.

    I'm still waiting to hear more about it Randy!!!

    -Cuz.

  8. Kill all the hackers and let God sort them out....naw...just kill them. God doesn't need to waste his time.

    FWIW, Norton is absolutely worthless. I just bought the high-zoot version and I'm still having all kinds of virus nightmares. It won't even detect a lot of what's out there and it updates at least once a day.

    What's the right choice for personal anti-virus these days? McAfee?

    It's not always the products you use, it's your computing habits that may need to change. For one thing I bet you are logging onto your Windows box with Local Administrator privs which is just asking for a disaster. You need to restrict your ability to hurt yourself so when some piece of spyware or trojan does slip past your defenses it won't be able to do as much damage. Norton is a very good product. You may not like it because you bought the antivirus software and what hit you wasn't a virus but a piece of spam or something else. You must have a layered defense in place and it has to start with a hardware firewall. This is true even for the home user. Spend $40 on a Linksys router and let that be the first line of defense. From there you need a software firewall, something like the ZoneAlarm which is free, or the more encompassing ZoneAlarm Security Suite ($60) which is an "all in one" firewall, antivirus and anti-spam program. Then, because no anti-spam/spyware program ever gets more than 60% of the crap that's out there you need another anti-spyware program like Webroot's SpySweeper ($35/year). And, you need to make sure they are being updated regularly. Plus, you need to make sure your computer is being updated with all the patches from Microsoft. If you are still running Windows '98 you can forget about it because there are so many holes in that which are no longer being fixed by Microsoft. Right now the only two Windows Operating Systems that can be effectively patches are Windows 2000 and Windows XP (all flavors). Also, STOP USING INTERNET EXPLORER as your web browser. Switch to something like Mozilla's Firefox so you don't make yourself vulnerablel to the many IE exploits.

    Hopefully you are all starting to see how many things must be done to insure your safe computing. It's not an easy task and takes effort. But, if we ask BlackDragon if it would have been worth it to prevent his attack I'll think he'll say yes.

    Eric, I am not meaning to jump on you here, I just happen to be at your post when I decided to respond. This isn't meant to be directed at you but just some general info for BlackDragon and the rest of you to let you all know what's involved in keeping your computers safe. There's a lot more I could include here for corporate level protection but I'll stop so I can get back to reading the other messages. :)

    -Cuz.

  9. I've been loading on a 550 for the past 10 years and have considered upgrading to the 650 a few times. In the end I always come to the conclusion that the 650 is just not enough of an upgrade (to me) to justify. I'm happy with the 550, it's been flawless, but I only load 3 pistol calibers (.38, .40, and .45) so it's a very simple press that just keeps working. I plan to upgrade to a 1050 but have been putting that off becauase there's always a new gun I'd rather have. Someday tho I will get it.

    -Cuz.

  10. As many have said, keep the crimp to a minimum! ;)

    Ivan

    PS how much are you paying for the plated bullets?

    I

    I'm following DirtyPool's lead and going with Berry's on the bulk purchase plan. Right now the base price for 1000 of the 40 cal 180 gr hollow points are $51.77 plus shipping. Me and a few friends already have an order for 30,000 bullets put together and are waiting for a few others to jump in. Don't know yet what the shipping will be but we'll have about 1000 pounds to ship. As I understand it anything under about 180gr will fit 2000 to a USPS flat rate box. Others won't fit. Once I get the complete order together I'll call Berry's to get the shipping estimate.

    -Cuz

  11. my GS said 1.200 so that's where I load em'. I'm going to try some short, minor loads soon, but they work fine out long.

    DP,

    Hopefully you've been shooting the Berry's for a bit now. Do you still like them? Would you get them again?

    Do you know if the copper coated bullets will work in a Scheumann AET barrel?

    Thanks,

    -Cuz.

  12. If we're talking traditional Second Chance main event style pin matches, where you need a lot of poop to move the pins back and off the tables, the round-nose stuff just isn't going to work all that well.

    If you try to do everything with one bullet style you're going to have to compromise the performance somewhere. Round-nose stuff loads the fastest, obviously, but it's really not very good at moving bowling pins when the hits are a little edgy.

    I guess I would recommend using a 230-gr. FMJ or RNL for everything but pins, and use the 255-gr. lead SWCs for pin-shooting.

    If you really want one bullet to do it all, I suppose my recommendation is the 230-gr. XTP, but that's too expensive for volume shooting (for most of us, anyway)....

    Thanks Carmoney. I am looking for one bullet to do everything and understand I'll be compromising a little by not getting the best bullet for each job. I also want to stay away from lead if I can help it and was hoping to pick from the three bullet types I attached in a previous message. All are 200 gr from Berry's. I'm not sure what Second Chance pin matches are but these will need to move over 2 ft. back and off a table. Can that be done reliably with a 200 gr bullet?

    -Cuz.

  13. Cuz,

    Of the 3 I like the middle one, flat point round shoulder.

    I have shot some of the semi's like that and they reloaded OK for what I was doing with them, yes they were quite accurate....But that was out of my gun. <_< Yours may not like them.

    Of those 3....

    1 Flat point round shoulder

    2 Semi wad cutter

    3 flat point trunicated cone.

    Good luck.

    HOP

    Carmoney, got any other suggestions.....You're the pin shooter!

    Thanks Hop.

    I appreciate your taking the time to provide info. I'll add what Carmoney chimes in with to the mix before making my final decision. I guess the hollow points are out for now and the FPRS are in the lead.

    -Cuz.

  14. My call:

    Flat nose, if you can get a good radius and not a square/trunicated cone type.

    Semi wadcutters, Might want to roll the nose edge. ;)

    Trunicated cone, seem to work about the same as Semi's

    Hollow points.

    Good luck, Maybe Carmoney will add his .02 dollars. ;)

    Hopalong

    Hopalong,

    Thanks for the info. Of course, like all good advice it just generates more questions. If I'm reading you correctly I should favor the Berry's 200gr RS (Round Shoulder, like a RNFP) over thier 200 gr FP (Flat Point). I'm trying to attach a pic of both for comparison.

    Can you verify? Thanks,

    While I'm asking 20 questions why not one more. Do you think the 200gr SWC would be any more accurate? I'm talking about distances of 100 ft or less.

    -Cuz.

    post-4806-1144458504.jpg

    post-4806-1144458511.jpg

    post-4806-1144458606.jpg

  15. Cuz,

    I can't tell you about pins, I'll let Carmoney get that. But there in NO better a profile for speed reloading a 625/25 than the FMJ, TMJ or Plain ole "ROUND NOSE" bullet.

    Hopalong

    I agree that FMJ is the best and fastest reload, but what comes second? Hollow points can't be much different than the round nose flat point lead bullets I'm currently using. I figure the copper coating might even offer less friction than lead if that's even an issue.

    As is often the case, when trying to find one bullet to serve multiple purposes you can't always get the BEST because what's best for one purpose is not best for another. I'm looking for the happy medium bullet that will work well in all cases.

    -Cuz.

    It's not so much a matter of speed, but of consistency. I agree with Hop and Carmoney.

    I just re-read my original post. I guess I shouldn't have asked what was BEST because I already knew it was a FMJ bullet. Sorry I mislead you guys. I want the best bullet to serve me in all shooting applications (ICORE, USPSA, Plates, and Pins).

    -Cuz.

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