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Cuz

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Posts posted by Cuz

  1. 147's with fast powder will make the softest steel load, but slower bullet means slower strikes on the plate. Personally I like heavy bullet steel loads because they kick less and bang quieter.

    I ran 124's at major in 9X21 and super for years, never saw too many separations. One nice thing is they splat real nice on steel.

    Making Major with a 124gr bullet is a bit faster than I'd want to push a plated bullet. What do you think the minimum PF should be for a steel plate load with a 115 and a 124gr bullet?

    -Cuz.

  2. I've read in more than one location that plated bullets work best when the velocity is under 1000 FPS. Does that rule out the 115 and 124 gr bullets as a viable plated bullet for 9mm?

    Both of them need to exceed 1000fps just to make minor before considering a safety cushion in case the chrono is off.

    I am also looking for a decent Steel Plate load in 9mm and am wondering whether to go with 115 or 124 gr bullets. They will be strictly copper plated (Berry's or Rainier). Would I be better off with a 147 gr bullet?

    Thanks,

    -Cuz.

  3. But recently my primers have been jumping right out of the spent-primer catch chute. They sometimes land in the spent primer cup, but 2/3 of the time they land on my primer slide (causing a jam) or mostly just all over the floor.

    Help! :rolleyes:

    +1. I've been battling this same problem for the past few months and it's quite annoying. Hopefully someone can help.

  4. Hi, I'm in the market for a used 625 and am confused by the -3, -4, -8 models. What is the difference bewtween them and which are the more desirable ones?

    Here's a partial listing of differences, but from what I've learned here there is some overlap between the changes where they may have been using up some of their part stock.

    -Cuz.

    S&W Model 625 History

    Model (Changes)

    625-2 (models prior to 1989)

    625-2 (model of 1989, full lug)

    625-3 (1990 - longer stop notch in cylinder)

    625-4 (45 Colt instead of 45 acp)

    625-5 (1991 - 45 Colt)

    625-6 (1993 - drilled and tapped under rear sight)

    625-6 (1995 & 1996 - switched from square to round butt)

    625-6 (1997 - started including locks in boxes)

    625-7 (1998, started using machine injection molded parts, and removed firing pin from hammer)

    625-8 (2001 - Started putting key Lock on sideplate)

  5. To work well in the AET, the plated projectiles will have to be .401 or larger to have a chance. If you go with one of Schuemann's "Ultimatch" conventionally rifled barrels, they shoot plated or lead bullets about as good as any other conventional barrel.

    Thanks for the info. Mr. Schuemann says 40 cal plated bullets need to be .402 or .403 to work well in his AET barrels. I can't seem to find any of those...

    -Cuz.

  6. I need to be able to shoot plated bullets out of my SVI 40 cal limited gun with AET barrel. I was thinking of having SVI build me a new top end without an AET barrel in the hopes it will shoot plated bullets accurately. Their website says all their barrels are Schuemann. Can anyone tell me if it's just the AET barrels that dislike plated bullets or is it all 40 cal Schuemann barrels? Based on info from Mr. Schuemann I would tend to believe it's all of his 40 caliber barrels.

    Thanks,

    -Cuz.

  7. Nemo,

    Why are revolver shooters hostage to Federal primers? I don't get it?

    Federal primers are much softer than the rest which allows for a nice light trigger pull in a Revo. When you lighten the trigger pull you also lessen the force with which the hammer will fall and strike the primer. That means with non-Federal primers you may get light strikes and failures to ignite if the springs are too light.

    -Cuz.

  8. Thanks guys. I'm leaning towards the Zero's ;)

    It seems that Montana Gold has been just a little cheaper than Zeros lately. I don't know about lower quantities but the case price (2500 bullets) ends up being a couple bucks cheaper per 1000.

    -Cuz.

  9. First check the barrel of the yoke where it goes into the cylinder and make sure it is clean. deposits in that are can slow cylinder rotation and give you a problem with timing.

    Gary

    Oh Gary,

    Say it ain't so. I got a revo because I hated cleaning guns and figured it would run longer between cleanings than my auto. Now I was told last night that the timing is off on my 625 and it's got me bummed. Of course, the fellow that pointed it out to me also said I should probably clean it first to see if that fixes it, but I'm wondering if there's another solution??? Man, I hate having to clean a gun while it's still capable of firing. I usually wait until it stops working and then clean it and I'm sure this one can go another few thousand rounds before needing to be cleaned. No "lookers" in my safe, they are all shooters and they are all dirty.

    -Cuz.

  10. Well, I got my 10k x 200 plated hp, as replacements, and I"m testing them tomorrow.

    They were supposed to give me the same price, but somehow it worked out to $64/k delivered this time, so I am rapidly losing my sense of humor about all this. <_<

    DP40,

    Why the switch to 200gr? Aren't they the same size as the 180s? Please keep me informed as you start to shoot them.

    Thanks,

    -Cuz (feeling your pain).

  11. Does anyone know if the cylinder release that Randy Lee was supposed to be developing is available yet? Last I remember it was for the newer model 625s with the lock hole in the sideplate and was supposed to be geared for lefties. I'd love to see a picture of it if anyone has one.

    Thanks,

    -Cuz.

  12. I just returned 6000 Berry's 180gr HP's because they don't work in my AET barrel. Hopefully they will allow me to exchange them for some 230gr 45acp bullets. I'm going to buy myself 10K of Montana Gold 180gr JHPs and be done with this problem once and for all. Yeah they cost more, but they work and I don't have the time or money to deal with these problems.

    -Cuz.

  13. BTT bump.

    Due to a SNAFU in shipping it took a while, but I got the new samples. I'll load some tonight and report tomorrow afternoon.

    Are these the ones that are supposed to be .401 in diameter?

    I'm anxiously awaiting your results as I've got about 7K bullets here and I'm not having much luck with them.

    -Cuz.

  14. Well, this is no longer a decision I have to wrestle with. I just ordered the big Dillon tumbler and big media seperator from Brian. Now I don't have to feel guilty about letting the brass pile up. I guess the only thing I'm missing now is a big ol 25 lb bag of rice from Sams Club, or walnut shells from Petco (have to check which is cheaper). I've always bought my media from reloading places online, but I figure to be using a lot more now and the shipping gets expensive. Time to find a local option.

    -Cuz.

  15. Looking at my tumbler that crapped out on me online it is actually rated for 1000 cases which I can only use less than 1/2 of that. I think it is actually too small. I know if I don't get the Dillon I will regret it so I'm just going to get the Dillon. Hopefully it will last for a few years.

    Pete

    Pete,

    What timing. I've been wrestling with this decision for the past couple of years. I have finally given up waiting for my old Midway tumbler to die. It's about 12 years old and going strong, but it's just too small. In fact, I had stopped tumbling my brass about 3 months ago and now it's piling up so there's just too much to spend 4 or five days tumbling small batches for a couple of hours at a time. I was just trying to decide if I needed the media seperator or not. I decided I do.

    One other note, if you buy them from our host here you'll save money on the shipping. Brian's shipping costs are actually cheaper than Dillon's. I did look at the other tumblers and they do look nice, but I've had such good luck with Dillon products that if I don't buy it I know I'll regret it.

    -Cuz

  16. I agree, USPSA could sponser a classifier match for JM over a weekend and get some baselines. He could probably shoot them at home and mail in the results! I'd trust him.

    Maybe we can just email him a bunch of the classifiers and let him set them up himself too. Forget the USPSA sponsorship, he may just do it for the fun of it...

  17. Cuz,

    I don't know much about the Berry's. I just know some shooters that ran them in their guns. From what I've heard their plating is very thin. Are you using a lot of crimp? I make sure (especially with plated bullets) that (like IAN27 points out) there is no real crimp. Crimping can cut the plating too. I think it's the No1 cause of trouble with plated bullets for most shooters. Most of us don't have those cool AET barrels ;)

    I'm curious what Berry's will say about it.

    BTW, is your AET barrel TiN-ed? If so, it could take considerabley more time to lap it for plated. That TiN is as hard as a diamond.

    Yes, my barrel in TiN. I pulled a couple of bullets and there was no noticable marks. I'm using a Lee resizing/crimping die and I turn the die down just about a 1/4 turn past contact. Very little crimp.

    -Cuz.

  18. All:

    Thanks for the Kind words....I am not mad at ANYBODY, just extemely frustrated in myself for not being able to convey my thoughts in a positive and useable manner.

    SAM KEEN

    Hop,

    Actually that's not true. I've read many of your posts and they never confused me at all. In fact I actually found them helpful and useful. So unless you were really trying to confuse me and screw up my revolver game you must be mistaken about your inabilities. So maybe some times on a particular subject you may actually care deeply enough about to want to help someone you can't find a way to type it all up so it reads the way you mean it to. You know what I do when that happens? I send them my cell # and ask them to call if they want to discuss a topic in more depth. Sometimes you can say in 10 seconds more than you can type in 30 minutes. In any case, I'll miss your posts.

    -Cuz.

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