Cuz
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Posts posted by Cuz
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I watched the video and from what he says, he is using a Norton India type stone. From looking over the Brownells catalog it appears to be a 6 x 1/2 x 1/2 inch stone, but is it a medium or fine grit? I don't think he says it or I just didn't catch it. Can anyone help here? Do I want the medium or fine grit stone?
Also, what kind of file is he using? He says it's flat on one side so as not to ruin part of the metal he's working on, but I couldn't quite catch what he says about the file. Can some one tell me what kind of file I need to do the work he talks about on the video? As best I can tell he only seems to use one stone and two files.
Thanks,
-Cuz.
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Most likely when you had the action worked on, the rebound spring was cut and no stone work completed. Just guessing who did the work, but if it is the same that did our mutual friend from Manville, that was the problem with his also. It is an easy fix for the experienced, but will take time otherwise.
Are you shooting ICORE at S&W next week?????
Regards,
Well, When I ordered the "Trigger Job" DVD I also ordered a Miculek spring kit which I thought would reduce the trigger pull, and also an EDM fibre optic front site. But when I read the installation instructions it says you also have to grind down the strain relief screw. I wonder if the spring kit is even necessary if I just shortened the screw. I think from many posts I've read here the mainspring and rebound spring work as a team and need to be "compatible" in some sort of way. I guess it's time to watch the video to see what kind of stone and files I need to order now. You are correct about the gunsmith. I will go and watch him install the front site for me since I can't do the drilling, but I think I'll watch the video and see if I can't do the stoning stuff my self.
ICORE at S&W? I don't have any idea what that is? I've never been to S&W, although Springfield is probably only a couple of hours from me. I'll send you an email for info.
-Cuz.
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What does it mean when the trigger sometimes gets hung up during the return motion when firing? If I fire very fast it seems to work all the time, but when I fire slower in double action mode sometimes the trigger doesn't always return all the way forward. It also feels very rough during the forward motion after firing.
also, I just ordered the Jerry Miculek "Trigger Job" DVD, but was wondering if the video is accurate for the newer model S&W Revolvers with the keylock in the sideplate?
Thanks,
Cuz.
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Congratulations. But wait till you find out diapers cost more than ammo. That was an interesting realization. Enjoy.
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Also, I am trying to find a holster that will fit my 5" barrel. Other than CR speed & Blade-tec that's all I can find.
You can also try the Safariland 002 Cup Challenge holster or the Universal "Extreme" holster available from Shooter's Connection.
I tried looking for the Universal Extreme holster at shooters connection but couldn't find it. Can you provide a bit more info or a link?
Thanks,
-Cuz.
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Greetings,
The PC625 has a forged hammer. You can(dare I say it?) cut off the spur and Dremel the back of the hammer to match the contour of the frame - this will lighten the hammer by a good 30% which will do a lot in conjunction with balancing out the rebound slide spring and mainspring forces. The trigger work is pretty well outlined in Jerry's video and there are a variety of spring kits available( hopefully in Europe too).
~Randy
Randy,
Can I see a pic of your hammer somewhere?
Thanks,
-Cuz.
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Bet you can't wait for Taser training!
It really only hurts for a few seconds and then goes away as compared to the pepper spray.I took a taser blast in one of Massad Ayoobs classes. It hurt like hell, but I was able to draw and return fire rather quickly. Of course, Mas wouldn't let me have a loaded gun when they hit me so all I really did was draw and dry fire at a plate rack. I tried to convince him to let me do it with a loaded gun but he would have none of that. They even took my pocket knife away from me before the blast "just in case". I'm glad I did it tho. Now I know I can respond if necessary. Lest any of you think I'm superhuman or anything, it was just a single blast with the Taser, not actually getting shot with the prongs. The short blast hurt enough, I don't think I could have done anything but drop like a rag doll if it were a sustained blast from being shot with the prongs.
-Cuz.
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Cuz, I think it will be just fine.....order from Brownells and keep your receipt in case it doesn't dial in and you need to trade it for the .312. I know I've used the .360 with factory front on a couple revos over the years, can't quite remember which guns and which bullet weights, though....
The .360 Milletts don't quite work with the factory front site. I dialed mine all the way down and it still shoots about 4 inches low at 50 feet. Looks like I'll be ordering that .300 SDM site sooner than I had planned. I actually did pretty good with it at a plate shoot today. The rack was only about 40 feet away so aiming at the base of the plates worked fine.
-Cuz.
Is it worth replacing the factory rear sights for Millet? If so, what is the recommended SDM/Millet combination with a 5" barrel?
Hey Mike,
The Millett rear sight assembly is absolutely worth the investment--better by far than the factory unit or the aluminum Weigand replacement blade. Go with the .360" Millett and the .300" SDM f/o up front.
Mike
I just checked out the SDM webpage and they are recommending the .250 front site with the Millett .360 rears. Is there a big difference? Why might I want the .300 instead of the .250?
EDM Website quote:
"Example: existing front sight height .250" existing rear sight height .360
Use .300" high Super Sight and .410" Millet rear."
-Cuz
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I've been using Montana Gold bullets for quite some time now and have had nothing but good luck with them. However, I can purchase Zero bullets for a little bit less money and was curious what everyone here was using. How are the Zero bullets??? The Montana Gold bullets always function perfectly in my SV and would assume the Zero bullets would be the same? Should I try a few thousand Zeros and see how they are or should I continue being loyal with Montana Gold because they've never let me down?
Thanks in advance,
Pete
Oh Pete, now you've done it. I was using MG but switched to Zero cause they were over $10 cheaper (per 1000) thru Chuck at Shooter's connection. I haven't even started loading the 2000 I bought and now you have me thinking about going back to MG. I've had no problems with any of the Zero's I've shot in .45 and I've gone thru around 4k so far. My SV won't be ready for a while yet so I still have time to decide. Maybe I'll go Zero in .45s and MG for my .40 shooting. Decisions decisions...
-Cuz.
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PRO EARS
By RidgeLine Inc
made in the USA by a Shooter. Nice guy Dan Nigro made in WestCliff Colorado!!!!!
WWW.Pro-Ears.com
All his stuff is first rate and he helps with JR shooters and at the Steel Challenge
I sugest the Dimension 1 = yo can have a normal conversation and the gun fire will not come through.
Made in the USA buy Americans in a nice town.
+1 on the Pro Ears. I tried a few of the better ones before I called the guys at Ridgeline. Initially it was the 5 year warranty that got me to try them. Now you couldn't pay me to give them up. I have the Dimension 1 and they're great. They may take 4 batteries, but they seem to last forever.
-Cuz
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Cuz, I think it will be just fine.....order from Brownells and keep your receipt in case it doesn't dial in and you need to trade it for the .312. I know I've used the .360 with factory front on a couple revos over the years, can't quite remember which guns and which bullet weights, though....
Thanks Carmoney. I ordered the .360 site and also a set of Pachmayr grips. Only I didn't get them from Brownells. I don't mind supporting them, but I can't afford to throw my money away either. Natchez had the rear site for more than $15 less. And the grips were over $7 less. That's a savings of over $22 on a $50 order. When I get the SDM front site I will order from Brownells as their price is reasonable for them.
-Cuz.
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The Millett rear sight assembly is absolutely worth the investment--better by far than the factory unit or the aluminum Weigand replacement blade. Go with the .360" Millett and the .300" SDM f/o up front.
Mike
Will the Millett .360 work with the factory front site on a new model 625? I'd like to put the Millett rear site on now and change the front site down the road.
Thanks,
-Cuz.
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As soon as I'm finished with R112mercer's 625 and Underlug's 627 , look for a new fiber optic front sight and nifty new cylinder release which is lefty friendly and uses the hole left when the competition shooters remove the hammer lock( sorry, not available for the older frames)
Randy,
What kind of timeframe would you guess for those parts? Are we talking within a monthor so? I'd be interested in both the site and cylinder release. I'm a lefty with a new 625 so keep me posted.
-Cuz.
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I'm sure I have a few extra hammer blocks down in my parts box--if anybody needs one let me know.
Is this because you don't use them or you are overly paranoid about losing one??? Sorry, I had to ask.
-Cuz.
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AzShooter & R112mercer,
Thanks for the detailed info. I wish I knew what part was the "hand". I think I'll copy off both sets of instructions and save them til I work up some more nerve before attempting. I'm not very good with small springy parts at all.
-Cuz.
It's a good idea to dryfire the gun and watch the parts move when the sideplate is off to get an idea of the relationship between the parts. It'll start to make sense after a few pulls.
Thanks, but this is what got me in trouble the first time I took the side plate off. I pulled the trigger and the hammer block popped off and I couldn't figure out where it went. For some reason the correct location didn't seem right. I ended up grabbing a new model 66 out of the safe and opening that up to see where the part went. Thank goodness I actuall had another of the new style S&W revolvers. All of my other ones are older. Once I put it together and put the sideplate back on I was afraid to take it back off.
-Cuz.
It's a good idea to dryfire the gun and watch the parts move when the sideplate is off to get an idea of the relationship between the parts. It'll start to make sense after a few pulls.
Do the old clear plastic side plates fit the new yoke screw ??
(granted you don't have to have one but .....)
There's a clear plastic side plate available? Where can I get one?
-Cuz
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Here is my new Limited gun in .40
Nice gun. I'm jealous, my SV is still over a month away. Time moves soooo slowly when waiting for a new gun. That's why I had to buy a S&W 625 revolver to make the time go by faster...
-Cuz.
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Cuz,
I would leave it in. It is a great benefit for very little or no penalty.
Patrick Sweeney, who frequents these boards, has written several books on the workings of the S&W revolver. In it you will find tips on disassembly and trigger lightening as well as other stuff.
Tinkering with my revolver is almost as much fun as shooting it
dj
Thanks for the info. I wasn't being totally honest when I said I removed it. Actually I had a local gunsmith do a trigger job on the revolver and when I got home I noticed it was missing. I called him up to ask about it and he said it was a useless part and he takes them out whenever he does a trigger job on competition guns. I guess I'll ask for it back.
-Cuz
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AzShooter & R112mercer,
Thanks for the detailed info. I wish I knew what part was the "hand". I think I'll copy off both sets of instructions and save them til I work up some more nerve before attempting. I'm not very good with small springy parts at all.
-Cuz.
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Best instructions out there is a DVD by Jerry Miculek called Trigger Job, compete action tuning for Smith & Wesson revolvers.
You can order it through Brownells.com or www.GunVideo.com or call 1800 942-8273
Can you confirm if it covers the new model 625?
Thanks,
-Cuz.
Not sure if the current video shows MIM hammer and trigger parts. They can be tricky if are not used to them.Those little parts jump out from everywhere
Regards,
Yeah, that's what scared me when I took the side plate off. I wasn't expecting to see so many parts in there.
-Cuz.
I just received my VCR tape from AGI (American GunSmith) on the S&W revolvers. It covers all revolvers starting with dissassembly, cleaning, TUNNING, and reassembly. The gun is taken all the way down so you can see each part. The video can be obtained through AGI 1325 Imola Ave, West #504 Napa, CA 94559 (707) 253-0462Enjoy, Walt
p.s. It also shows you how to handle those springs that want to jump out at you.Which video did you get? there are two on S&W revolvers. Neither mentions anything about the newer revolvers. Does it say when the video was created?
Thanks,
-Cuz.
Not sure what's going on with my posts, I think my Browser is screwed up. It's putting all of them in the same reply. Oh well, don't-cha just love computers???
-Cuz.
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Mike, Dan,
Thanks for the replies.
Cuz, I hope I didn't hijack your thread.
thanks again,
dj
DJ,
These threads don't belong to anyone. They belong to everyone. I'm just trying to learn as much as I can so whatever direction this thread takes will provide me with valuable knowledge. I have another post somewhere asking about pictures and instructions so I can work up the nerve to take my revo apart and do some polishing. When I took the sideplate off there were a few more parts in there than I was expecting to find. I figured out the hammer block dohickey doesn't seem very important in a competition revolver. Is there any reason I should keep it in? I already took it out.
-Cuz
Best spring kit I've found comes from Vic Pickett. It's a bit pricey but will give you a reliable trigger somewhere in the 6 pound range with no other work done to your gun.The kit has a mainspring that has been chriogenically treated so that it should last forever. It also comes with two different rebout springs. One if you will be using Federal primers only and another that works even with Winchester.
You can get in touch with Vic at Ultimate Accessories, 1-480-985-0005
Thanks for the info. I found their website but it doesn't look like the store part is up and running so I'll have to call Vic to get more info.
-Cuz.
Best spring kit I've found comes from Vic Pickett. It's a bit pricey but will give you a reliable trigger somewhere in the 6 pound range with no other work done to your gun.The kit has a mainspring that has been chriogenically treated so that it should last forever. It also comes with two different rebout springs. One if you will be using Federal primers only and another that works even with Winchester.
You can get in touch with Vic at Ultimate Accessories, 1-480-985-0005
Thanks for the info. I found their website but it doesn't look like the store part is up and running so I'll have to call Vic to get more info.
-Cuz.
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Anyone know where I can get some pics or instructions for taking apart (and putting back together) the action on my new 625? I am hoping to find something online with detailed pics that explains what the parts are and how to put them back together once removed.
Thanks,
-Cuz.
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There are a number of methods to reduce mainspring tension, but the worst of them is to simply loosen the strain screw. Even when loctited in place, loose strain screws can sometimes gradually back out under the vibration of firing the gun, then you get a click at an awkward moment. On my S&W revos, I usually use a combination of shortening the strain screw and re-bending the mainspring, to achieve the proper tension (which for a competition revolver is as light as possible and still get 100%--not 99%--ignition reliability). Even the aftermarket springs will often need additional adjustment to accomplish the goal--given that reality, I prefer not to spend hard-earned bucks on spring kits when I can get delicious results using the factory parts. The tension on the rebound spring should be reduced proportionally. Replacement with an aftermarket product is an option, but here again, the existing factory rebound spring can be easily cut to the right tension, so why bother?
Mike
Thanks Mike,
The only problem with what you say is that it requires knowledge about how to bend the spring or how many coils to cut off. I don't have that. I figured by buying a drop in part I could eliminate "me" from the equation. On a similar note, rather than replace the front site with a fibre optic, why not just drill out the existing sight and insert a fibre optic rod? The existing sight seems like the perfect blank for doing this to.
-Cuz.
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I'm trying to figure out what's the difference between installing a Brownells reduced Power Rib mainspring or just backing out the strain screw a turn or two?
Also,
The reduced power kit comes with 3 different rebound springs. Does anyone know what weight spring comes in a new 625?
Thanks,
-Cuz.
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Got them sights in and installed finally. I love them! I had a blast trying them out last weekend. Thanks ya'll!
Here she is all decked out with the new sights, Miculek grips, and a trigger job. I hope to be practiced up and ready to compete with it the first of the year!
Those sights look nice. Does the SDM fron sight just drop right in? It looks like all that's needed is to push out the pin, switch sights and put the pin back. Is it really that easy? Do you have to drill a hole in the sight or is it already there? I have a brand new 625-8 that I want to install them in.
Thanks,
-Cuz
It really only hurts for a few seconds and then goes away as compared to the pepper spray.
p.s. It also shows you how to handle those springs that want to jump out at you.
Help With My 625
in Revolver Forum
Posted
Thanks for the info. I'll keep this post handy when I actually get around to taking it apart. Luckily I have two similar revolvers so if I can't figure out how something goes I can use the other one as a reference. As for the front sight, I don't have the capability to drill out the EDM sight. I just don't have a steady hand for that. Thanks,
-Cuz.