Cuz
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Posts posted by Cuz
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the question is, what's right by the classification system
Since you asked, I'll tell you exactly what I would do. I'd call Sedro and explain the problem and let them make the call. My concern is maintaining the integrity of the system and the intergrity all of those involved. If HQ feels the scores should stand, I would support their decision.
Is there an "allowable" margin of error when setting up a classifier? There can't be zero tolerance for measurements. Just curious as this topic taught me a few things I didn't know about classifiers and how much they meant. I just assumed that they were a fun way to see how you stacked up against the rest of the shooters in the game. Apparently it's significantly more than that. Forgive my ignorance on this one.
-Cuz.
I'd like to thank everyone who took the time to reply to my original post. I have gotten a lot of good insights and was able to contemplate many sides of this issue which did not initially come to mind.Admins: Please close this topic.
-Chet
Oops. Sorry, I posted before I read this...
-Cuz.
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I need an external hard disk, USB interface preferably, to backup some files from my laptop and fiances laptop occassionally. Something that will last and not lose our data. Doesn't need to be huge, 20G or so is fine.
Any recommendations?
The reliability of an external hard drive is inversely related to the importance of data stored on it. Do you really need 20 gig? For backups you may want to consider a 2 gig memory stick. Since it has no moving parts it may be more reliable. Or how about a DVD burner? You can put up to 4 gig on a re-writable DVD or up to 8 gig on the dual layer versions.
-Cuz.
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I am due to be getting my 3 140's and a 170 back TODAY!!!!!!! WWOOOOHHHOOOO
Cameron,
How long did it take to get them done?
-Cuz.
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In the end, there are 1911 based firearms that shoot 1.125" .40 fine. Heck, my Limited gun shoots Speer Gold Dot HP's out of the box all day long (and why I've carried it concealed once in a while...20+1 baby!). For competition though, I want to make my platform as reliable as possible and the best way for most 1911 based pistols is to load them long.
SPC Richard A. White, Senior Medic
249th MP Detachment (EACF)
Camp Humphreys, ROK
Did I just read that right? Reliability is more important for competition than for protection? I'm sure you didn't mean it that way, but I just couldn't pass it up...
-Cuz.
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If I were going to purchase magazine tubes and send them to Bevin to be tuned I would call Bevin and get his advice on which tubes he thought would work best in my caliber in my gun.
I went thru this back in October and called Bevin to discuss. He prefers the STI tubes because of the ridges that run down the tube. There is less of the tube in contact with the ammo so there is less friction. The SVI tubes have one big indent so more of the tube contacts the ammo which = more friction.
-Cuz.
If I were going to purchase magazine tubes and send them to Bevin to be tuned I would call Bevin and get his advice on which tubes he thought would work best in my caliber in my gun.
That thought had crossed my mind, too.
I guess I will do that. 
Already did that and Bevin said to get STI. If I got this right he said that the SV tubes have more surface area dragging the rds, (flat indent on the side) where the ST tubes have smaller crimps that touch the rounds with less surface area, so less drag on the rounds. It made sense so I sent him some STI tubes, got them back, and am pleased as punch...
If you don't mind my asking, when did you send him the tubes? How long did they take to get sent back? Just curious.
-Cuz.
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I wandered into a gun shop in Huntsville Ala. last weekend as I was passing through town.
I havn't owned a revolver for quite some time and thought I would take a look at their display.
I discovered a new in the box Model 610 Classic hunter with a 4" barrel.
Smith made a very few of these back in 2002 and discontinued them soon after.
A new one is quite a rare find.
It has a great feel and balance.
I might just have to try my hand at revolver.... if I can figure out how these moonclips work
Tls
Tls,
Did you buy it or is it still available? If you don't buy it I'd like some more info on it please.
Thanks,
-Cuz.
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CUz, we ran 5.9 W231 with 230LRN for over 10 yrs.......Dont remember the chrono data, but they worked well in the comp gun and took the heavy pins too!
DougC
Thanks Doug.
That sounds more reasonable. After my last post of 5.0 gr W231 I rechecked the loading manual and it says 5.8 gr of W231 to make 900 fps.
-Cuz.
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Rule #1: You must have a chrono. Rule #2: 195PF is the minimum. Once you've gotten there, then flatpoints and hollowpoints are icing on the cake.
Your revo may well be faster than your 1911, which is why youneed the chrono. without it you do not knwo what you're actually getting from a load.
Pat,
I know I need a chrono, but I don't have one yet. Probably because I don't have an outdoor range to use it at and I don't like having to spend the extra money for lighting to make it work indoors. My range just isn't suited for it. I figure if I follow the load books and aim for someting in the 850 - 900 fps range I will be close. Since my guns are relatively new I'm sure it will be safe. It's tough to screw up a 45 acp load if your careful.
All 3 of my loadbooks pick Winchester 231 as the most accurate powder at the 900 fps load (measured from a 5 in barrel) so I may start there. I figure 5.0 gr of 231 will be a good place to start. Then I'll see how it does on the pins and go from there.
thanks,
-Cuz.
Do the guys at the range go by their local bowling alleys,They maybe able to get a good used pins.Just a thought!
Jeff
I'm not sure where they get them from. They have a decent supply, but they do shoot them a lot. I remember last year someone said the bowling alleys were switching over to a newer plastic pin that doesn't hold up very well to shooting. I've never seen one tho.
-Cuz.
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Thanks for the info everyone. Last night I tried shooting 4.5 gr WST with the 225gr lead FP bullet but I didn't like the way it felt. I'm thinking of going back to Bullseye or maybe 231 powder to get the hotter load. I hear a lot of good things about Winchester 231 and lead when loaded on the hot side.
Sorry to hear you guys aren't getting to shoot many pin matches. Up here (MA/RI) there's one going on within an hour of me almost every weekend thru the summer and fall. Sometimes towards the end of the season the pins run out and they switch to plates. I have a light load that works pretty well for plates. I think I find pins/plates even more fun than USPSA, but I won't admit that on this forum.
-Cuz.
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Can someone offer some advice as to what velocity I should be loading for to get a good pin load? I want a .45 load to shoot in both a 1911 and a S&W 625 revolver. Without having pins to test it on I'm guessing that loading to a particular velocity is the way to go. I'm expecting the 1911 to chrono slower than the revo since the barrel is shorter.
Thanks,
-Cuz.
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Since everyone is on the belt subject, what are you all using for keepers? My CR speed keeper wore itself out pretty quickly. Do you just buy extras? Or go with the leather snap type that the cops use?
Thanks,
-Cuz
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Christopher,
Thanks for the file. Very handy. Much better to have a spreadsheet on my computer than to have to use the online versions out there.
-Cuz.
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Are both the +1 and +2 pads legal for limited?
Only the Dawson +1 basepads are legal in limited. The +2's won't fit in the gauge.
Thanks. Now I can place my order.
-Cuz.
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I tried a search but got nowhere fast. Hopefully this is a simple question. I want to put Dawson basepads on my STI 140mm mags. Are both the +1 and +2 pads legal for limited?
Thanks,
-Cuz.
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Shortly after getting married, my wife informed me that no individual gun could cost more than her ring since it had to be the most expensive non-car product in the house. I can buy as many as I want, as long as I keep each one under that limit.
Damn Rob,
I could easily live with those rules. Heck, she only has one ring right? I guess the only pre-requisite is that you would like to have know that BEFORE you picked out the ring since you would be setting the ceiling for some years to come.
Of course, I'm sure she would let you "upgrade" the ring at any point in the future as new gun prices continue to rise...
-Cuz.
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Thanks for the info guys. Now that I got it back from the gunsmith I just need to get out there and test, test, test.
-Cuz.
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If memory serves me right I think you have to take the spacer out for the SVI. Give it a try and see if it holds the gun securely.
I did. Neither way makes that big a difference. That's why I posed the question. It's not held as solidly as my Para in the same holster.
-Cuz.
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Bullseye smokes more.
My search for the perfect powder centered around smoke with lead bullets. Except for Universal Clays, I never had any accuracy or SD problems with anything I tried.
Did I misunderstand you? Does the above statement mean all powders except Clays produced good accuracy? Was Clays better or worse than the others?
Thanks,
-Cuz.
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Tim,
You must use the full or half moon clips. Your rounds are moving forward away from the firing pin. How do these even eject without a clip?????????
Ranch Products has some good moon clips. They are the cheapest I've seen yet. Something like $25 for 100 delivered. Check them out at www.ranchproducts.com
-Cuz.
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Can someone answer a question for me? I just bought a Safariland 012 holster for my SVI Limited gun. For some reason it doesn't seem to have a firm hold on my gun. My question is should I remove the spacer when using an SVI gun? It seems to hold my Para really well.
Thanks,
-Cuz.
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While I love TiteGroup for .40 jacketed/plated loads, you'd have less smoke using blackpowder in either the .40 or .45
Plain Old Clays is what you need for .45 lead loads. I haven't found anything better.
How does it compare to good old fashioned Bullseye? I've never tried Clays, but it seems that when ever I do try a new powder I always come back to Bullseye in 45.
-Cuz
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I would go with 4.5 grains...but one caveat...titegroup with lead make lots of smoke...the super-smoker 1500....its bad.
Have you tried CLAYS?
if not give it a try. what did you not like about WST?
IMO 231 is a better(more accurate, less smokey) lead bullet powder than titegroup
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harmon
Well, it looks like I may have been mistaken. What I thought was an accuracy problem that I was blaming on WST powder turned out to be a gun problem. I had a dinged up barrel crown and a bent guide rod. Damn, I can't believe WST did all that to my gun
It's in the shop now getting a new bushing fitted, barrel recrowned and guide rod fixed/replaced. I should have it back tomorrow and will re-test next week. Man, I can't believe all the time I wasted trying to find an accurate load for this stupid gun. The fact that just about all test loads shot fine in my 625 revolver should have been a tip off, but sometimes I can be pretty stubborn.
-Cuz.
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Cuz, my 626-6 has MIM parts and a frame-mounted firing pin.
Some 626-6s still have the hammer nose.
I guess I should have stated that I was writing all that down while the woman at S&W was reading it out of the book. I thought I got it pretty accurate but maybe I missed a bit here and there. It's more of a "guide" than a "bible" I guess.
-Cuz.
One thing I have learned in dealing with S&W. The lists like those quoted here are only a guide. They used up any and all parts in the parts bins before a final change was completed.There is a lot of mismatch in the fitting room depending on who worked faster during the piece work era. Nothing is cast in stone.
regards,
Well that would certainly explain the overlap in the date ranges.
-Cuz.
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At what point did S&W start using frame mounted fireing pins in 625 revolvers??
I got this info from S&W a while back. You may find it useful, it's from the standard catalog of S&W guns I think:
S&W Model 625 History
Model (Changes)
625-2 (models prior to 1989)
625-2 (model of 1989, full lug)
625-3 (1990 - longer stop notch in cylinder)
625-4 (45 Colt instead of 45 acp)
625-5 (1991 - 45 Colt)
625-6 (1993 - drilled and tapped under rear sight)
625-6 (1995 & 1996 - switched from square to round butt)
625-6 (1997 - started including locks in boxes)
625-7 (1998, started using machine injection molded parts, and removed firing pin from hammer)
625-8 (2001 - Started putting key Lock on sideplate)
-Cuz.
Poppers And Power Factors
in Miscellaneous BEginners
Posted
You guys are making my head spin. Did I log into the wrong forum this evening???
-Cuz.