glockdude1

Need some feedback please... What have you guys found was the most accurate 45ACP bullet... Montana Gold, Nosler, Rainier, Berrys, etc., etc. Is there much difference in HP vs. RN bullets for accuracy?

Found the barrel...thanks guys

Thank you...wil give them a try

HELP!! Does anyone know of a Briley 5" or 6" Oversized 45ACP Non-ramped Barrel...NOT A DROP-IN I have been waiting 2 months and Briley doesn't have any

HELP!! Anyone know of a Briley 5" or 6" 45ACP Non-ramped Barrel that IS NOT a drop-in barrel I have waited 2 months and Briley doesn't have any

I bought 1,000 Wolf Primers and I would ONLY use them in my practice shoots.. For matches, I did not trust them, since I had 4% non-shoots with the Wolf Primers.. As the other guys mentioned, they are very hard and my Glock striker was too light for 100% to fire..depends on your gun I would go with Winchester or CCI primers

3.9gr at such a short OAL doesn't seem to be the load that works best.. I run 4.1-4.2gr N320 at 1.140 and it has a medium recoil and burns pretty clean.. I would think that 3.9gr would dirty up your gun more..

I have a Sig 1911 Match Elite and i love it.....paid $899 for it on sale a few months ago... If the STI Trojan is anything like the STI Edge, it is probably a great choice..

Try 4.2gr at 1.115 OAL.... Experiment with your powder loads....make up 20 rounds of 4.0, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, etc., and see which one is the most accurate...

Thank you...will try that also

I blew my 1911 Sig barrel up and have been looking for a Briley 5" or 6" Match Oversized Barrel (Not a drop-in) that is Ramped and w/bushing... Does anyone know of any new ones out there to buy??

I blew my 1911 Sig barrel up and I cannot find anyone that has a new Briley Oversized (No Drop-ins) Match 5" or 6" barrel w/bushing.. Does anyone have one???

Go get a G34...you will love it..... Keep your G35 for shooting Major Limited matches.. If I'm not mistaken, you can buy a 9mm conversion kit for your G35 and then you would have the best of both worlds, but I am not sure whether the conversion kit has a long compensated slide, which the G34 has and it is great..

I had boxes of Wolf Primers of both small and large pistol primers.....I just sold all of them because, in my Glock 34, I would get an average of 3 no-fires per 100....the primer was struck and was indented, but no fire.... I would stay with Federal, Winchester or CCI primers and pay the little bit extra...

I also have a 550B and have had a couple squibs in my 9mm and blew the barrel up in my 45 cal. 1911.....I posted my distress on this forum and EVERYONE suggested I buy the flexible light and look into each casing after the powder is dispensed, before placing the bullet on the casing.... I followed their suggestion, and haven't had a problem since......AND, I think that I won't listen to music while I load...distracted me too much..

On primers, if you cannot find CCI's, go with either Federal or Winchester primers..whatever you do, DO NOT GO WITH WOLF PRIMERS!!!.....out of 100 Wolf Primers, 4-6 of them won't fire and you might blow your gun up if you are shooting timed events....VERY INCONSISTENT!! I ran Berrys 124's and 115's and they are OK, but Montana Gold 124 CMJ's are awesome, so I run them exclusively now with 4.0 of Titegroup..147's are too sluggish..

In my Glock 34, using WW231, I run 4.4gr with a 115gr bullet and 4.0gr of powder with my 124gr CMJ MG bullets...great loads... If you load too light to lessen the recoil, your gun may not cycle well (stovepipes) and you may not be as accurate if you shoot timed events, because the sights may not lay down as fast to get off another accurate shot..remember, having just the right amount of recoil is GOOD

I would take your gun to a gunsmith and have it gone through...Titegroup is a pretty fast burning powder, so your shells should come flying out of the slide, even using 147gr bullets..

I use CMJ's and my gun is cleaner....also, I don't feel comfortable handiling thousands of rounds of FMJ's....handling lead that much will transmit through your finger pores..not good for your health, you know...

There is nothing wrong with practicing with 115gr, as long as you load it to give you the same recoil feel as a 124gr or 147gr.....I shoot inexpensive 115gr practice rounds with WW231 and 4.4gr....I shoot competitions with a 124gr bullet, using N320 and 4.2gr.....they feel close in recoil, so why not keep your costs down... Your loads depend on your gun, so do a little experimentation and go with what works for you....

I would try Montana Gold bullets...work without an issue in my Glock 34 Gen 4....Berrys are cheaper, but like the ole saying..."you get what you pay for" and there is a reason they are cheap...

I have a Dillon 550B....great machine..... I load 9mm for my Glock 34 and have tried EVERYTHING as far as powders, bullet weights, primers, and here is my suggestions for you.. If you have the money, get the N320 powder from Brownells...with hazmat fee and shipping, it is $52 a pound, but worth it...if that is too much for you, go get some Titegroup or WW231 powder...they work good also.. For bullet weight, go with 124's !!!!.....115's are too snappy and 147's are sluggish...124's are juuuust right!! Primers.....DON'T GET WOLF PRIMERS...THEY SUCK....get either Winchester or CCI Work up some different loads, pick one, and go with that...I drove my self nuts trying all the powders and bullet weights.... Glock 34's like N320 and 124gr FMJ or CMJ bullets from Montana Gold...

I ordered 2 pounds of N320 and it cost $104......didn't want to order more than 2 pounds in case I didn't think it was better than the cheaper Titegroup...

I just had my Sig 1911 blow up....I reload also, and I was in a competition when it happened....every round sounded fine, but I must have had a squib (probably from not having any gunpowder in the casing) and then I fired a round right after the squib and it blew my barrel up ($300 mistake)...after this happened, I bought a cheap 'snake light' from the dollar store and I now reload by sitting up high and the light shines into each casing to verify that I have gunpowder in each one before I set the bullet on the casing....haven't had a problem since..

A lot depends on whether you shoot slow rounds or whether you shoot in timed events.... In timed events, you want enough recoil so the front sight jumps up and settles back down quickly, so you can get your next shot off faster.. The 115's are too snappy, in timed events, and not as accurate.. The 147's feel soft, and will not get the front sight to settle quick enough, in timed events, thus they are not as accurate.. The 124's are just right....snappy enough to settle the front sight down, in timed events, and wicked accurate...great compromise... A lot depends on fast burning vs. slow burning powders.... Tite Group will add a little snap, so it might work OK with the 147's WW231 is a little slower burning than Tite Group, and it softens the 115's N 320 is a great powder for the 124's and a lot of people run this combination and LOVE it !! ...it is expensive to obtain, since I could not find it in any store, so I ordered it through Brownells and paid a hazmat fee, plus shipping, so it was $52 a pound, but I think that it is worth the cost...