thompsoncustom

How you like that czechmate hammer?

I'm not sure if the tac sport barrel will work if you look at the pics on CZ USA website the ramp seems to be different along with some other minor differences. tac sport http://shop.cz-usa.com/ProductDetail/047004940706_Barrel-Tactical-Sport-9mm cz 75 http://shop.cz-usa.com/ProductDetail/0420049201_Barrel-9mm-7585

hmmm if the only difference in the TS barrel is the OD that sounds like a great option.

I was thinking that was just for the sp01 but either way that price is outrageous for a threaded barrel it cost 125 more for some threads. I have the handles and some taps and dies but probably not what I'd want on the barrel. Still would be cheap to buy a 6in and buy the die and do it myself and send it to CGW for recrowning. Might just get some bar stock and build a comp to seems easy enough Tho this one looks promising. http://yhm.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_7&products_id=118

No threaded barrels are not readily available but 6 inch barrels are so it would just need cut down, threaded, and recrowned. I've thought about running a doctor sight as they make slide mount that go right in the stock sight dovetail. Kneelingatlas great work with the airsoft comp. I wonder how far you can take the airsoft Chinese stuff. They make a knockoff doctor sight for 40 bucks I might give that a shot and if it doesn't work just throw it in the trash as cheap is it is and get the real thing. Lonewolf comps are pretty cheap but i'm not sure I'm loving the design but if it works I guess I wouldn't really complain.

Good to know. I hate plastic in the first place so I'll probably just have to get a metal one sided mount.

What I was thinking is getting a old surplus CZ 75 and throwing a comp on it, C more serendipity, Comp hammer and your normal internal upgrades, undercut the trigger guard, turn the beaver tail up what I can. I don't have a mill so I'm not sure if I want to put any cuts in the slide with a dremel/file but I'm sure I can if the slide needs lightened. Would love you hear any ideas. I'm just throwing things around right now and seeing if this is a project I want to do. Again not a competition gun just a range toy.

I'm building the gun so no big deal there. Thanks for the tip on the steel shooters lots of responses there.

Just had a quick question on modding the stock mount that comes with the serendipity. Instead of using all 6 holes could I trimmer off the back holes on both sides to give me some more room by the ejection port without causing problems. I think 4 screws(2 each side) should work fine but wanted your guys thoughts. I know I could just get a different mount but this is a cheap project not a comp gun.

I'll probably throw it on a old surplus CZ 75, no plans on competing with it just a range toy. I see a lot of 3+ ports available but not a lot of 2 port comps. I'm guessing less gas works better with less ports.

I've got some time on my hands and some money burning a hole in my pocket so I might make a Open style gun just for target shooting at home. I've never had any experience with any Open guns but I'm guessing that the compensators are mostly for major loads. Is there any that work great for minor? I posted the above in the Open pistol form and one of the members said this might be a better place to ask. So you steel shooter have any recommendations.

I've got some time on my hands and some money burning a hole in my pocket so I might make a Open style gun just for target shooting at home. I've never had any experience with any Open guns but I'm guessing that the compensators are mostly for major loads. Is there any that work great for minor?

Looks great

I think the lowest I ever measured my 75b was just under 2lb SA with fresh oil. It can be done but like Kneelingatlas said it would be best to do it your self and work out any issues that arise. CGW has a adjustable lifter arm for the firing pin block and is something you will need, I ramped the block a little and than adjustable the lifter as far as it would be and still have a working firing pin block. Now you mix this with the CGW disco and you have a short reset. But if you get the shadow (non block) CGW disco you can fit it for a even shorter reset. Your going to need about every aftermarket part they make and than some, I polished everything and used 56% silver solder to fix the sear cage 100%, Made a skeleton trigger bar and fitted it with silver, polished tool steel pins that the sear and FPBL ride on, fitted number 19 pin I think, so it can be done but it takes for work.

Indeed and I'm guessing that's why CZC didn't go that route and that makes prefect sense. I might have to give CZ-USA a call and see if I can get a hold of the stock bushing and play around with it.

The internal stock bushing not the aftermarket 1911 style.

How hard is it to remove the bushing? if it's not extremely hard seems like the pay off would be worth it, a accu bushing in any gun and still run production. Tho it wouldn't be as friendly the gun could still be cleaned.

Ya I like the look of the outside 1911 style bushing but it doesn't make much since to do it that way because if you can do the same thing internal than you could use it on about any CZ and not have to worry about it being legal. I wonder if CGW would design a internal one.

Nice to see a report from Meat like ballistics gel, I wish we had more reports like this give a real world view of how the bullets going to do. Nah they just renamed the black talon you can still buy it now as the PDX1 oh and it's not black but it still has the nasty hooks in the back.

post some pics when you get it done would like to see it.

I've done some work with silencers and loads and ben is right. For the quietest bullet use something heavy like 147 to 170 and a fast powder, the heavier the bullet the faster pressure builds so you end up using less powder. Here's a example say you have a 147gr load with 4.5grs of power pistol so it's just under 1000fps you have to quit 4.5gr converted into gas after the bullet leaves the barrel. Now if you have a 168gr loaded with 2.8grs (I can't push it faster with aa2 safely) of aa#2 you have about half the gas to cool. It's not so much the speed once your under subsonic but the amount of powder your using and type. Also I would try to keep pressure on the higher end so you get a complete burn instead of using a powder that's to slow and leaves the can a mess. Now if you only have 147gr just pick a faster powder or if velocity is your goal pick the powder that gives you the best velocity with the least amount of powder. Hope this helps. Dan

This website is where I got mine. Bought there multi pack which is 3 feet of each color. http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/store/index.php?cPath=8_22

I run orange seems brighter than red to me but not bright as green. Blue seems to be the brightest by far in absolute sunlight but falls off quickly the darker it gets and i've never found any use for yellow it doesn't work for me in any light.

Whats the reasoning behind using a slower powder? A faster powder will give you less felt recoil when fixed with a heavy bullet I use 2.9grs of AA#2 behind a lead 168gr SWC and it's the lowest recoil most accurate bullet I got.

Yup this might help. Thanks to cublazer over at the czforums for the pic.