thompsoncustom

Ya the second one would be in combo with the first just to reduce overall mass. I don't think there is a way to get any higher and still be production legal. What about this? This amuses that hammer down is how the gun is few for production legal. So in this one you have a narrow hollowing on the inside and holes on both sides of the hammer to reduce overall weight. Also added drilling the top out from the firing pin side back that way with the hammer down at least under my comp sights it is not visible. This would also reduce mass on the top the only thing I worry about with someone like this is the hammer breaking/cracking.

Good question and I don't know the answer. But you could just order the extended firing pin for CGW it's just a little longer and you can go down to a 8.5lb hammer spring instead of a 13. http://cajungunworks.com/ultra-lite.html

I guess that depends on if the weight needs to be removed from the top of the hammer to be effective or if just reducing the over all mass of the hammer will work? If you were to drill up the center like this you would not be able to see it from the outside You could also remove some mass by drilling hole in the side of the hammer also shouldn't be visible. I've never reduced a hammer before so I guess my biggest question is does it matter where the weight is removed? If it has to be removed from the top then ya none of this will work for production.

Had a quick question for people that compete in produce in IDPA and/or USPSA. Has anyone tired lightening there comp hammer? If I under stand it right a lighter hammer is faster and snappier so it requires less lb's hammer spring to set off the same primers. Now in IDPA SSP there is no external modifications but is that with the hammer down? If so would removing weight from the bottom of the hammer impact the speed? is it overall weight or just the weight towards the top of the hammer. Also could probably drill from the bottom of the hammer up toward the top without being visible. Anyone done anything like this? Thoughts are welcome. Thanks Dan

anyone know what pressure range mag primer don't seal at? Would a primer sealer help build pressure quicker in the cup and help with sealing at lower pressures?

After reading that it looking like it was more of a brass problem then a problem with using mag primers with a minor load. I would say just run them and inspect a handful of brass around the primer pocket after firing.

The 173gr I cast and it's for a .357. I would have no problem running a jacketed 357 bullet through my CZ if it's not going to cause problems. I'll have to check out berry's bullets.

Any one reload 158ish grain bullets in 9mm? Whats the longest OAL you are able to run?

I'm looking to load some 158-160gr RN fmj bullets for 9mm and was wondering what bullet you recommend that will feed with a long OAL. The longer the better 1.145 is what I load my 173gr SWC at and I have great luck with that length would like to be close to it. Is there a bullet anyone recommends?

I've had the SRS installed since the first of the year and it cut the reset in half for me but I didn't follow the directions I guess I was just wondering if everyone else had the same experience as me.

Did the SRS cut the reset in half for you?

You thinking more like this? Not mine.

Loading my SWC's I can't go over 1.145 before the mag causes problems but it has no problems chambering them all the way out to 1.175. It really just depends on the bullet and shape your using.

Ya same reason I did it as I don't compete as of now but I got bored and did this right after I stabilized my sear cage which is kind of funny. I think I can fell a little difference but it could just be in my head to . I did end up ordering a digital grain scale so hopefully I can get it weighted. Anyone have the weight of a stock trigger bar? Sear cage: Pretty easy to do with a little time just order some tool steel drill rods in .086 for a new #19 pin and some .116 for a new #13 pin then they need to be fitted and that's it.

Well finally got around to trying my hand at lightening the trigger bar, never found any drill bits that would go through it and didn't want to anneal it so I ended up grinding my way through it. Project turned out alright went a little thin in some spots but as long as it holds i guess, haven't tested it yet so we will see.

Ya his new SRS cuts the reset in half. I think if you where using the gun as a competition only you could push the reset back even further but the FPBL would have to pop under the FPB and you run the risk of flipping it backwards and locking up the gun. Tho he modified the lifter angle so it looks like an upside down U and you can ride the FPB. Now if CZ custom would release there disconnector they use in the SRTS I would love you see if you could combine them both.

This should get you started. http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=14688.0 http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=14690.0 http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=14685.0 http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=42537.0 And like said above a lighter hammer spring and comp hammer. Also a lighter trigger return spring helps some.

I'm not sure how much extra fixing would be required with CGW new FPBL hes working on. Here's a pic The only thing u wouldn't be able to do is change the angle because it uses a set screw. I would love you throw this SRT mod by CZC on my 75B but not sure if it can be done at this point.

I talk to a gunsmith at CZC and it sounds like they mod the disconnector but I'm not sure what else they are doing. What I want to know is Why this can't be used on the guns with firing pin blocks I would guess it's because of the long reset but CGW should have a part out to fix that at the beginning of next month. I wonder if you could combine the Two and have the best of both worlds? Also sounds like after they have some time under there belts with this mod they might release a drop in part/parts.

That looks more impressive then the picture on there website. Any pics/idea's of which parts where modified?

Any updates on this? I love love you see some pictures on the modified parts sounds like a great mod.