Arlin

joelh: Do you have a weight of some type on the plastic rod going down the primer tube? I have found putting a 1/2" nut on top of the plastic rod will insure feeding through the plastic tip on the primer tube. The other thing to look at is to see if the stroke on the primer feed is far enough back to allow the primer to drop. Just my 2 cents Arlin

Krazykj03: I have tried both and prefer the larger dot size. I'm able to acquire the dot much faster. Just my two cents. Arlin

Mike: I don't think you would be happy with he micrometer powder bar change. My experience is you will set the powder bar at one location and never change unless you have to change powders. I have separate tool heads for each caliber I load and duplicates in 38 super and 9mm depending on whether I shoot major or minor. I've been using the same camming pin assembly since I've owned the machine and have kept a little grease on he surface of the insert slide, so far fifteen years now, no problems. #2 don't bother see below. I suggest the needle bearing modification. It will eliminate the jump associated with the original design and seems to negate the problem with the spring and detent ball. I have the regular roller handles on my machines but the one you show may be an improvement. I highly recommend the primer shoot kit. You won't be sorry you purchased this one. Tool head lights, in my opinion, are good but I rely on my powder check system exclusively and have never had a problem. Just my two cents. Arlin

Runnin2live: If you change the main spring you might want to get an extended firing pin. It will help the problem with light strikes. Arlin

Bigarm: The dark colored bar was a corrective measure (they thought) might correct gaulding of the aluminum pieces in the primer assembly. Dillon went back to the standard aluminum a year or so later. The dark coloring seams to wear off, some what, after much use but both appear to work now. I've been using both types on my 550 and 650 for the past ten years. Arlin

Steve: Thanks for the information however this looks more like the C&H type earlier in the magazine. Brassaholic13: Not in perfect condition. Missing the primer installation system and the screw that appears to secure the die into the threaded portion. No rust and functions smooth. If you still think it's worth something I'm OK with an adjustment of your price. Arlin

I have a reloading press with the marking Schissel Cherokee Iowa. The press is a "C" type that appears to use standard thread dies. The press uses the up stroke to remove/decap brass. Can anybody tell me anything about this press?

Obsessive: Have you ever looked at the Caspian line? I've been shooting the high capacity style for over ten years with no regrets. I have two open 38 supers and one 9mm set up for IDPA/limited minor. Arlin

I would suggest getting on the USPSA site and review the rule book. The Safety rules are there and you need to know what they are before getting to the match. Arlin

I found the JHP did not feed well in my single stack nine so I went with the round nose version and haven't looked back. I still use the JHP in my super. Arlin

Heychris: I use the wipes before I leave the reloading room to get most of the grime off. Then wash well with plain soap and water when I get into the house. Arlin

Ihocky2 The springs are special and should be replaced with OEM parts. I get mine from Brownells. Arlin

If you use the vinegar and hydrogen peroxide be sure you don't get it on any blued portion of the firearm. It will remove the blueing. Arlin

I have spent the last four months in Florida trying to get away from winter conditions in New Mexico. During my time here I was fortunate to shoot with a very professionally run club, Flagler Gun and Archery Range. The IDPA club president, Steve Canfield put on several professional matches that followed the founding principals of IDPA and followed the new rules. There were no Tribal rules in these matches which was a delight to see. If you ever get to Northern Florida I suggest you put Flagler on your list of places to go. Arlin

It was a great surprise to see Toran Manard was selected as our new AC. I could not have picked a better person for the job. Arlin

remark: The new rule is the same as the old. If you have a round left in the chamber you have to retain the magazine. The only time you can dump an empty magazine is when you have gone to slide lock. Arlin

Gentlemen: Here is a site I use regularly. http://cofexchange.com/Cof/index.action Arlin

SHTR3: Here is data directly from the 13th edition of my Winchester loading catalog For WST: 170 gr, Lead charge weight (grs.) Velocity Pressure (psi) 4.0 870 22,800 5.0 970 30,000 180 gr, jhp charge weight (grs.) Velocity Pressure (psi) 4.0 780 21,800 5.0 900 28,100 Arlin

Dawgfish: Why not trim the rim of 38 super cases? Arlin

Blind Bat The SOIs that were chosen to be new SOI have been tested and are posted in the IDPA website. Arlin

The title says it all. I guess I was not one of the chosen to participate. Arlin

Mikelindsey: The ports on my machine look like small holes along the left side of the machine and on the pivot points. I use the grease supplied by Dillon, which comes with their maintenance kit, but could not tell you what brand they use. The grease is pretty thick and clear like Vaseline. Arlin

Youngeyes: Yes it is the small primer tube. Been loading Winchester and Wolf in the tube for the last five years. Thanks for your comment. Arlin

Youngeyes: What powder bar are you using? Some folks have had problems using the small powder bar with large grain or tubular powders. Changing to the larger powder bar has helped. I was using the small powder bar with N350 trying to throw 7 grains and was getting a lot of spillage onto the turret. I changed to the large powder bar and the spillage problem disappeared but the large bar is limited to the larger capacities or volumes of powders. Hope this helps. Arlin

Readers: I experienced a major problem using Tula small pistol primers in my Dillon RF100 Primer filler. The primers appeared to turn sideways in the filler tube which completely blocked the tube and could not be easily dislodged. I attempted to remove the primers by first rendering them harmless by soaking the tube in WD40. I then tried to dislodge them with the plastic rod from the Dillon priming system, this worked somewhat but was not very successful, the rod bent and was completely distorted. After much cussing and working with the plastic rod I finally cleared the primers from the tube but found the thin aluminum tube disfigured and not usable. I ordered a new tube from Dillon today. By the way I am using the Tula primers and the original manual filler tubes to fill the 650 without any problems with the 650 and Tula primers. Hope this prevents further damaged equipment. Arlin