shooterbenedetto

extreme trigger kits are great...just got one and building a race gun backup. I manage to lighten it down to 2.0 from 2.5 ill buy them in a heat beat.

limcat didnt really take off.. buy some cr speed..they are great you wont regret it. BUY IT ONCE ONLY...and never look back..thats what the big boys shoot with. check out ERIC GRaufel's gear.

really COOL SLIDE!!! i really like that. looks like a lot of fun. thanks for the videos. just a tip/// when shooting on the barricade, you can save time by getting on take off position to run!! that way, after youshoot, you dont have to bend your knees down and take off running..SAVE TIME ON TAKING OFF!! hop this tip helps.. good shooting MICAH.

my gunsmith built me my race gun 2 years ago and i learned at 1lb trigger?? its just that im building a back up race gun for myself and want to avoid spending $$$. i like the idea of the triglide sear..i think i might try it. i just inspected my original race gun that is at 1lbs. i noticed that the sear has a nothch filed in the middle?? does thishelp engage the trigger with this kind of light pull???

micah b i did the same thing last week?? but i only dry fire every other day for 15min. after reading this forum especially with you posting 1hr of dryfiring? i belive you should be close to GM by now or atleast top 20 in your class. I im top 17 on a class open and i hope the get my master card on friday when they update the scores in uspsa. What do you average percentage wise on you last 5 matches? im curious?im lucky to squad with jojo vidanes in norco,ca every weekend.and im on top 5 to top10 on week end matches.

any secret to balancing your springs? what kind of sear and main spring is used? and what pondage? 18 or 15? i bought an extreme drop in trigger and i think i got it down to about 2.0.

check jvdynamics.com he make extended magrelease how ever long you want it. then you can grind it down to yor liking....

I have a recoil master that I found and it is heavy duty. I bought it last when I was C class open shooter. does anybody try this on their open gun?

Where are the plasting bags on those TARGETs???? learning to shoot in the rain is part of the game...but you have to be prepared for the weather..othwise you just screw up the scores?

i like to push myself in club shoot but out of 10 times i do,1 will work and other times i feel that i'm shooting bad habits.( extra shots more time...) an example,a simple stage and 5 evenly out 25m steel poppers. i usually will hose and shoot one at each taget and hopes it hits it and come out with a blazing time. or 10 out of 10 times, I can hit the poppers if i take enough time to hit and move to the next popper. question is should i see what i need to see or should i practice fast shooting and hopefully one day it will cath up on me.? I feel that when I miss, i'm practicing bad shooting habit.

Here is my respond to this. Pick up and buy all the DVD instuctional from Matt Burkett. and dryfire daily 30 min. a day. guaranteed that you will at least be c class or better. Set your goal!!a,master shooter etc..! then shoot major matches so you can compare your skills against other class shooters. If you win your class, then the system will bump you up to the next class. so ..foth and so... on. by the time you are on A class, it is a matter of mental skills and shooting your game at the Big shoots that will really win you the Big prizes... REMEMBER do not push your self in big matches..it will not work (rob leatham) Push your self in practice and club shoot with perfect points and good times. then on the big match, see all A" and just shoot.. the ranking will put you where you need to be. as for the shooters that are trying to push them selves. 95% they will fall out of the rankings and loose. good luck.. P.S. if you become a top shooter of YOUR CLASS!!do not get sponsor. it will take the fun out of shooting and you will hate it because it becomes a job and it is not deserving. we all shoot because we love to do it.

I was thinkin about putting a sand paper on a glass and file down the slide? and this time, I will file the first front rails on the frame first! so that I can correct any play on the last rails if there was any play.. AMAZING WHAT EXPIRIENCE CAN DO!!!what do you guys think? I just really think that file can work instead of the machine..I'm looking into the Harbor freight 3 in 1 milling? still expensive about $800.00.

Thanks Merlin but if thats the case the please SOMEONE tell me how they use to fit frame and slide in the old days with out a machine.. file has to work... but I think it must be done very slowwwwly.

Thanks, BoB and all of your response, i will call EGW and have it done correctly. in the mean time I will order another frame and do it again!!! this time I will measure 5x and cut once! and of course I will still use my good OLD FILE!!! MANY THANKS TO ALL OF YOU....

AGI is good but as a novice gun builder, like all of us would like to do, I LEARNED THE HARD WAY. take the AGI course.****my tip is that do not cut the frame!!! if you do, take .005 off the most and cut very slowly. MEASURE TWICE AND CUT ONCE!! The only down side about being gunsmithing ON agi is that HE USES A mACHINE.. I would like to buy tools and do it manually..cheaper tools. at the beggining, it makes me think twice to buy a lathe and milling but it is so expensive. so I decided to do it manually with simple tools from Brownells and GOOD OLD FILE!!! take your time good luck!

Joed and hsmith is right...I will never cut on the frame ever again!!! if I do, it will only be the most .005 thousands. I can always replace a good SLIDE but not the frame!!! this would be my gun and a keeper. I noticed that after shooting for 2 years, a gun needs a new slide every time? is it worth PINCHING or should I have EGW weld the frame and refit? if so, how much does EGW charge and what is the turn around? I figured after 2 years, I would have to Pinch another slide on the frame? but if I had EGW weld and refit, it would be easier to fit a new slide in 2 years?

Thanks Dave but my frame is brand new... I think i will call my gun smith and have him fix it. it only off by 5 to 10thousands of an inch. as for the accurail, i really dont like that stuff. Say HSMITH the answer is yes I did narrow the frame (rail part of it) that is the 5 to 10thousands of an inch off compared to my other open gun frame?

Thanks, smith it is an sti 2011 frame and slide. my first time building a race gun. so your sugestion is to squeze on the vise? lap and squeeze? will it be accurate gun or should I just accurail it?

I cut the frame down and slide now that it is in about 75% into the frame i noticed theres a side by side play. how do i get that out?

I got awhole bunch of STI parts to build my RACE gun!!! hehehe CHECK OUT THE PICTURE!!

I believe Taran Butler made GM in shooting GLock!!

+1 on that you would need that 10x power for 400yrds..

I have 2 digital cameras and it all takes AA BATTERIES IT SUCKS.... BUY ONE AND MAKE SURE IT IS RECHARGABLE!!!!

A few recomendations...HOW ABOUT LIGHTENING SLIDE ON THAT SUCKER!!! check out JVdynamics steel gun. I have one but in 5.0in. I bet if it was done in your stinger it would be a hell of an Ultra light gun and sweet for STEEL CHALLENGE. James Ong need feed back!!you are one hell of a steel shooter.

I shot US olympic Recurve 10yrs ago. I have an Eolla yamaha recurve in a COFFIN? havent taken out since. I Love that compound bow!!