Tuflehundon

tried the Vortex that last weekend and while it was nice, I really prefer the Trijocon. That's why I wasn't considering it. And to those who have recommended the MTAC. Why the MTAC over the Bushnell? Better glass, reticle, brighter illumination? 2nd focal plane of the MTAC vs 1st focal plane of the Bushnell? I ask because I haven't handled the Bushnell so I'm not sure.

I am looking for a decent low priced optic for my AR for 3gu and action rifle events. I have narrowed it down between the Burris MTAC which I used last Saturday, and the Bushnell AR223 throwdown PCL which I have not used. A friend that had the Burris was nice enough to let me use his rifle for a local action rifle hot this past weekend. And I was pretty much set on getting that scope until someone recommended the BUshnell scope to me. Price is pretty good and it has some nice features, but I have never handled one. I am trying to find a gun store near me that has one I can check out Between these 2 scopes, which would you get and why? Bushnell AR223 throwdown PCL http://swfa.com/Bushnell-1-4x24-AR-Optics-30mm-Rifle-Scope-Mount-Kit-P61988.aspx Burris MTAC http://swfa.com/Burris-1-4x24-MTAC-30mm-Rifle-Scope-Mount-Kit-P61993.aspx Also, FYI, I am not interested in a higher priced optic right now. I plan to get something inexpensive now so I will have one to use, and then will then start to save up and get a higher $$$ optic later, likely towards tax time next year. Maybe a Trijicon Accupoint. Then I will put the optic I get now on my S&W M&P15/22. Just can't shake the higher $$$ optic right now due to Christmas coming up.

It's a bad angle to be able to tell, but I generally bring my weal hand to the center of my chest on the draw. I can'ttell if I did that time or not, I'll check some other videos I have of me shooting.

What really helped me once I got my initial classifaction was knowing I could never go down a class. My initial rating was mid C class. been working on moving up to B class and am pretty close now. Waiting on 6 classifiers to post from early this month, and maybe I will move up. When I did my initial classifiers (did a classifier match were we had 6 stages and 5 were classifiers) I had a tendancy to want to shoot all A's and try to be as precise as possible. My hits were great, but my times suffered. Did a few more classifiers before I found out I couldn't go down in class. once I knew that, the pressure was off. If I wanted to give 100% and I screwed up, it didn't matter as much. Even if you blow your initial classifacation, you can only go up from there. There was also a time that I took my wife shooting. I was doing OK that day and right when my squad got to the last stage I get a call from my daughter, and we had to leave. Had the RO let me shoot 1st. Didn't have much time to overthink the stage, just looked at it quickly, came up with a plan and did it. Ran the stage no longer caring how well I did, and it was one of the best stages I have ever run. Steel was hit 1 for 1, almost all A zone hits, and my time was blazing fast for me.

Another option is to load some .40 minor loads. Tuned right with the right Minor PF loads, a .40 can shoot softer than a 9mm IMO. 9mm ammo is cheaper though

What division will you be shooting in IDPA, USPSA, Steel Challenge, or 3 gun? That would make a big difference in gear recommendations.

The fault lines are pretty close, but the main reason I was so close is it was the only way I could see all of the targets from one spot. If I had moved back I would have had to move to shoot the second string. Someone else on another forum mentioned my reloads. I am working on that more now. I'll look up the Burkett reloads.

I put a tooth lock washer on the cant screw and it doesn't budge any more.

Grapemiester seemed to cover things pretty well. You were shooting well, but those standing reloads hurt you.

A fellow shooter gave me his SJC thumb rest due to it doing the same thing with him. My hands are larger and it hits me right at the joint of the thumb. Works great for me. Can't wait for a better one to come out.

Shot a Classifer match today at Universal Shooting Academy in Frostproof, FL. They had 5 classifiers, and 3 stages from the Pro/Am last month. I am trying to move up to B. Was wondering if anyone might have some advice for me. This was my 1st stage of the day and was one of my better ones. Course of fire was gun loaded and holstered. Hands flat on X's. Draw and fire at the targets to the left. Perform mandatory reload and fire at the targets on the right. I am shooting a Limited Glock BTW. I did hit the 1nd steal popper with my 1st shot but it hit a little low and it didn't drop.

I have the SJC one on my G22 and like it. It was given to me by a fellow shooter that tried it and didn't like it. All depends on the size of your hands. It works for me fine. I have let a few others try it and about 1/2 liked it, and the other 1/2 didn't. The ones who didn't like it, generally had smaller hands. I have heard rumors that a couple of other companies are working on better versions. Nice to see Zev come here and say they are working on it. Most of my parts are from Zev.

I used one today at a Friday fun shoot and did fairly well. Was not competitive in open, but it was interesting and fun. Came in last in open, but 5th overall. I have a light laser combo that I use on my home defense gun, so I put it on my Limited gun just to try it out and get a feel for it. I think it's useful on a home defense or self defense gun, but an optic is better for sport shooting. It really made me want an Open gun though. I am trying to work out a deal with another shooter at my range for a used Open gun now. During the day I thing it would only work on close targets, which you really don't need it for.

The range I go to has action bays, which are walled on 3 sides. Sides have railroad ties, and the back has the railroad ties and a dirt burm in front of them. There are concrete slabs on top to prevent ricochets since we are in town and not in the booneys. The rear of the bays are open to the elements. There are lights that can be turned on at night, but some spots can get kinda dark at times.

I prefer the Arredondos for this. It may take a tool, but no others are as fast to come apart and go back together. To prove a point I took my Arredondos, my friends had Taylor Freelance, Taran's, and Dawsons. I was able to take apart, clean, and put back together 3 of mine before they could do the same to 1 of there's. I actually did 4 of mine before the friend with the Taylors did 1. Dawsons were the closest, but I still was able to do 3 before his 1.

I've seen guys run 1911's in Limited 10 using the longer single stack mags. So I see no reason you couldn't use a G21. You holster options may be a little limited, but you'd be fine with it.

I use a Ghost holster with my Limited Glock. To me it seems just as secure as a DAA. There are 4 adjustment screws used to set the holster as tight, or as loose as you want it. I think the Ghost Holster fits the polymer guns (Glock, XD, & M&P) better than the DAA's. The DAA works better with the 2011's IMO. It's almost like the Glock's, M&P, & XD's were an after thought for DAA. You order a mag pouch from them and it comes with 2 inserts to "fit most magazines". They don't fit Glock mags without modifaction. I also like the ability to be able to lock the lever in the up or down position.

It's the striker spring. The lightened spring works with some guns fine, but not others. You have 2 options. 1: go back to a normal spring weight for the striker. 2: get a lightened striker. The lightened striker solves the problem, but isn't exactly cheap. They range from $50 up to $80. I use the Zev lightened extended striker in mine ($80) and have never had any issues with light strikes no matter what ammo I use.

This is why I use them for carry use to. No one who has been in a gun fight has ever said they had to much ammo.

I would love a ledge style pedal thumb rest for my Glock. This is the only option I have seen so far, but thing more will come out as time goes on and people see the usefulness of them.

That would be sweet. Only problem is it wouldn't be stable due to only having 1 attachment point. I have heard rumors that someone is working on a Limited Glock thumbrest that has a pin that replaced the locking block pin, and then has a threaded screw that replaces the trigger pin. It's more of a "*thumb rest [generic]*" style similar to the carver one or the Arredondo one for 2011's. Not sure of it's true or not, but I hope it is. If it's not, maybe Bobby can run with that idea and figure something out.

No problem. Got a slide racker for it today to. Just found out those are legal for Limited as well.

Thanks for the detailed range report. So when you are gripping it where is your thumb resting on it? Is it resting on the first joint closest to the tip of your thumb or more towards the pad of your thumb? It was resting on the first joint of the thumb, so that the pad of my thumb was forward of the rest. If I put the pad of my thumb on the rest it tended to force my follow up shots to the right. That's what was happening to the guy who gave it to me, and was why he didn't like it. He had much smaller hands than me and wasn't able to grip it the way I do.I have huge meat hooks for hands, but a few other guys at the range tried it out that had more "normal" sized hands and they were fine with it.

Those sideways mounts are made specifically to get the optic as close to the slide as possible. From the angle of your pics, it looks normal to me.

I would agree that your issue is has a lot to do with using factory loads. That comp is made to be used with Major PF loads. Carver does make a comp for factory (minor PF) loads and a comp for Major PF loads. You should get your ejection port lowered as well as that can cause lots of issues.