HOGRIDER

My recommendation exactly! Could forget about case feed problems after installing the DAA plate/wedge.........

Agree 100%! IMO, especially when using mixed range brass, a simple taper crimp die should be all that's needed as long as sizing and expansion are done correctly.

Then you need to invest in a gage set to do random primer pocket checks prior to processing. https://ballistictools.com/store/small-and-large-primer-pocket-gauges I think your going to be shocked at the results!

DS9 Hybrid! https://masterpiecearms.com/cat/ds9-accessories/ds9-pistols/general-purpose-pistols/

Definitely going LO!

With the primer orientation sensor being so popular, do you think they wouldn't include the option to use one?

Definitely recommend contacting Dawson Precision!

This might help............

Page 67 of the Owner's Manual.............. Check screw #62213 that holds the "brass" roller in place to see if the screw has backed out a bit and is catching the slide channel? As @ddcmentioned above, there should be practically zero resistance in the channel!

https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=3363128230601762&external_log_id=cf70c5f3-8ee2-437d-9f9f-90cbe134347c&q=mbx extreme magazines

IMO, having owned the RL1100 and now an Apex 10, I would definitely prefer the digital belt driven Mark7 automation unit. If using the 8 station RL1100/S1050 with the Mark7 unit, and you later want to upgrade to say the 10 station Apex 10, then for an additional $250, you can use the same automation unit! And your S1050/RL1100 would still be un-modified in case you decided to sell or re-purpose.

@clw42I just took my OEM dropper out of the spare parts box; and it appears the only thing joining the clear tube to the bottom weight and top switch unit is some form of clear adhesive. And I can easily see how it could appear as an o-ring if there was a slight separation of of the tube from either end! Glad you finally got to the cause of all your aggravation!

I think the consensus "for USPSA shooting" will show Blue Bullets being the most used! https://www.dropbox.com/s/type21fkflns7zr/2020_Survey_Results.pdf?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/jwcv6hjxssyt9ct/2021Survey_Results.pdf?dl=0 https://thebluebullets.com/

Understand! I had disassembled the pro dropper assembly for a good cleaning when moving the MBF over to the Apex 10, and don't remember seeing any "o-rings" in the brass tube assembly. But I wasn't looking for anything either; just a good swab with an alcohol patch and thorough cleaning of the dropper assembly. I'll definitely file this thread for future reference!

Great to hear you finally found the problem! Any detail pics to share with others?

LOL! I wish! Unfortunately I'm still operating in "manual" mode..............for now. But automation is definitely in my future plans!

Yes, your right, as it was indeed the spring doing it's thing. But with my unfamiliarity of the Apex10 in "manual" operation, and the strong resistance of the spring, it felt just like earlier experiences of cam over in the old XL650 days......... Sorry for my confusion............

Yes Sir! My point is since I was using same headstamp, fully pre process brass I didn't really need the additional "dynamic" spring hold down with every cycle of the press handle. Again, the die's spring is pretty stout and was producing resistance I didn't really need........... It's an excellent product and works exactly as designed. IMO, it's benefits really shine when processing large quantities of mixed range brass! Sorry for any confusion............

@HesedTechI can definitely relate to your reasons for using the spring loaded FW Arms and Level10 dies! IMO, they definitely stabilize the shellplate/process producing far more consistency! I also appreciate my situation that uses same headstamp brass where I can set the hold down and swage to produce little to no shell plate deflection while directly seeing this effect the consistency at the seating and crimping stations. I will interject that for me, this has been much easier to setup on the Apex10 than with the RL1100....... Always good to hear of your knowledge and experience!

Prior to purchasing the Dynamic Hold Down die, I watched the "official" setup video a couple of times: https://youtu.be/AaxgLSKF6qk If you've seen the video, it's easy to understand that when setting up the hold down "foot" you run the die body down to where it touches the inner case head with the tool head down. Then after raising the tool head, the die body is rotated CW (down) an additional 320*. My understanding is this applies the "dynamic" spring loaded foot to provide a solid hold down while having enough spring variation to also accept different thickness headstamp brass. And, btw, the self centering part of the die is also a big plus when dealing with mixed range brass. As for my symptoms, I'm sure you can imagine setting the hold down foot to intercept and solidly hold the case at the exact bottom of the stroke; then when I ran the die body down an additional 320*, this caused the foot to contact the same headstamp, basically same thickness brass "before" the toolhead had bottomed out in it's stroke travel. So, continuing to intercept the stop of the press handle required the foot to compress the dynamic spring for 320* of travel which I relate to as "cam over"......... Sorry if this is TMI.........but just how I interpret this die is supposed to work with a simplified explanation.

Had one I started out with on the Apex10, and found the 320* beyond "touching" was causing a cam-over for press operation. Then backed it off to 1/8" turn past touching, and had much better performance. IMO, that Dynamic die uses a very strong spring! But it is a top quality, premium product! @HesedTechdid you experience any issues setting up for your 1050? Since I was strictly using WIN same headstamp, fully pre-processed brass, I decided to try the "included" Lyman Pro hold down die and so far it's worked flawlessly. The urethane insert does provide just a bit of "give" and I feel confident it would stop the process if a stray slipped though......

@clw42Something came to mind where another user was pulling his hair out experiencing a very rare situation. The Pro Dropper you have now, was it purchased as an original 9mm dropper with the yellow zip tie up top? Reason I ask is the other user having difficulties was using a different caliber dropper and decided to load 9mm with it. Ended up he had forgot to change out the dropper ball bearings to the correct size for the caliber he was swapping to. Installed the correct size bearings and fixed his completely! 9mm should be using 4.5mm balls. Just thinking out loud............

IMO, the weight of the necessary recoil spring is determined by the PF of your load (slide speed) and how quickly your sights return to zero. I installed the tungsten guide rod and did not feel or experience the need to change recoil spring weight. It's more about balancing the weight distribution of the pistol..........