Carmoney

Hey Cliff, it appears that Sam Keen knows your password and has hijacked your BEnos account.

If I calculated it correctly, the 100% HHF for 06-04 is now right at 6.9000. So your Sunday run would be a 100%er either way. The only reason they would have changed the HHF is that they recognized they were giving out too many 100% scores on this one. I suspect Sedro has the computer rigged up to let them know when that's happening.

IDPA has a world championship? Seriously?

Well, Bill, I'm just tellin' ya, my 6.4725 HF at the Charity match (which won the stage, incidentally) would have previously been a 100% classifier. You can go back and check other shooters' scores and you'll see it's true. They obviously upped the HHF at some point because it's now only good for 93.8043.

The chamber throat issue affects the 25-5s and perhaps the 25-2s. In my experience, the 625s are all reasonably (but not incredibly) accurate.

They must have changed the high hit factor on 06-04. Classifiercalc.com shows my score at 100%+, but they only gave me a 93-something when the system updated. Do you suppose that USPSA has actually been listening to my complaints about the class inflation in Revolver Division??

I think if you run a search here on the term "floating" or "floating hand" you will find lengthy discussion on this topic. Quick answer--ridiculously tight chambers, floating hand.

I will second Bob's comments about the American Classic 1911 made by Metroarms. Very impressive pistols for the money. I replaced the slide stop and sights, slapped on an S&A magwell and did a bit of minor trigger tuning, and it runs and shoots great!

Any 5" 625 (if possible, avoid the very first year's production guns marked 625-2 "Model of 1988") or 25-2 will serve perfectly for USPSA Revolver Division.

Not necessary if they're set up from the start. This means (among other things) a drop of blue loctite on the yoke screw.

For every high-level revolver shooter who does it one way, there's a high-level shooter doing it the other. If you've ever watched Dan Carden or Bjorn Dietrich hit a good reload, you'll see that keeping the gun in the strong hand can be extremely fast also. I have used both methods personally, and am pretty well convinced that they are just about equally fast. The big advantage of the weak-hand reload is that the muzzle tends to stay in much better control, and the chance of breaking the 180 (either horizontal or vertical) is substantially reduced. This is a serious issue. Watch some of the top guys do the switch-hands version (including Jerry), and you'll see them come precariously close to the 180 line, particularly when moving to the left. I've witnessed two revolver shooters get DQ'd for this exact infraction at major matches, and I've seen a bunch more that probably should have been. Just sayin'....

Pull the plunger out of the yoke screw and remove the spring. Install a pin behind the plunger that is sized to the correct length. That's it. Now--that said--in my opinion, this measure is not necessary for most people. Let's be honest here--if you're ramming and jamming things so drastically with your reloads that you're driving the cylinder off the gun on any kind of regular basis, instead of changing the yoke screw you might want to seriously rethink your reload technique and execution.

I dunno about that. Bubber, the true master of the speedloader reload, keeps the gun in his strong hand the whole time. And he's fast. If you're really worried about shoving the cylinder assembly off the gun, you can always rebuild the yoke screw in a way that removes the spring plunger retention set-up and gives it a hard lock-up.

Jerry's no muscleman, he simply knows how to shoot. Every successful revolver action shooter has learned how to use a hard hold on the gun. Wheelguns don't reciprocate. There is nothing driving the front of the gun back down and forward. 100% of the recoil and muzzle flip has to be absorbed by the shooter's bone structure and musculature. You can't do well when you "pussy-hold" the gun. Now here's a secret, but don't let anybody else know......shhhhhhh....... A good hard hold works for auto-pistols, too!!

buckaroo: The reason (and in my view, the only reason) to get a V-Comp gun is that you have shot one and satisfied yourself that you like that heavier barrel and the slightly more muzzle-heavy feel it creates. You're correct that the actual factory comp is pretty much useless on one of those things with ICORE loads at 120 p.f. Hell, my own V-Comp I have set up for ICORE Open has the solid thread protector installed instead of the comp, if that tells you anything. Otherwise, you could mount a C-More on any 8-shot 627, even the value-priced 4" Pro Series version, and have an excellent gun for ICORE Open or steel shooting that will be just as accurate and just as shootable.

Grease season is definitely over where I live! For the next several months, the only guns that will be running reliably around these parts are those lubed with lighter lubricants that are designed to flow in colder temperatures. Year-round, Mobil 1 is wonderful stuff for guns.

Photos of confirmed cases of 1911 battering are going to be like confirmed sightings of Bigfoot and the Loch Ness Monster. Lots of people claim that the above creatures exist.....but nobody can ever really seem to prove it.

Heck I think everybody on my squad at Memphis was under 50....except that crotchety old Steve Irish, I guess.... From there, we ranged down to 17 (my son Sam). I have actually been thinking about how Revolver Division has felt younger over the past couple years. Our local club has several younger guys shooting the wheel. Nationally, we have Matt G. (30s) and Josh L. (20s) making a major impact on the game.

Goddang! I'd want to be wearing protective eyewear around those slot tracks.

I guess I need to remember that not every revolver shooter has my svelte physique. Sounds like Bob needs to complete the R&D on the North Mountain Shooting Glasses Extension Mirrors so you bigger fellas can see better down there.

The real key to fast speedloading with moonclips is to use your eyes! Don't reach around blindly. Bring the gun right down by the front of your belt, focus your eyes on the first moonclip that comes into view (it doesn't matter which one it is), watch your hand pluck the moonclip off the post and keep watching as it falls into the cylinder.

Yeah, you can also use a Dremel and a cutting wheel to make screwdriver slots.

I would advise against the Briley bushing after experiencing one of those disintegrate in the middle of a match. Also, I'm curious what you mean by "Fitting it is no big deal." A proper fit is everything, and is not something that the average tinkerer or general gunsmith knows how to do properly.

Nah, that gimmick has already been done. Maybe a batman mask and cape?

The way I figure it, J-frames are for fairly deep concealment, which generally means pockets and ankle rigs. If I'm going to use a holster, I might as well strap on something a little more substantial than a snubby. For those deeper concealment applications, lighter weight and corrosion resistance are big advantages. Thus my J-frames are the airweight and airlight models, and I generally load them from my old stash of Winchester +P+ Treasury loads, which I find to be the best compromise between performance and reasonable levels of recoil.