Carmoney

Here you go, boys.....feast your eyes on my Lew Horton 24-3 .44 Spl. all slicked up with a duty action job, brushed hard chrome plating, and Craig Spegel cocobolo grips. Holster by DeSantis. (Merlin, drop me a PM or email if you're serious....)

Might be worth a try sending back just the frame. On the other hand, since it's a high-mileage unit (300-500K dry clicks? Yikes!) the best solution might be to just leave everything in place and shoot it the way it is. As long as it's supported on both sides and not causing any trouble, it'll probably be fine.

Six of one, half-dozen of the other.

I just sent a customer's gun back to S&W to have a hammer nose bushing pressed in, and they sent me a Fedex return ticket and so far have been treating it like a warranty claim. I like Bubber's idea of sending them just the stripped frame, BUT I don't believe they will work on anything except a complete gun. My solution for my customer's gun was to temporarily install stock guts from another gun. Once the gun is back here I will reinstall the good stuff. Personally, I would do a factory return on a broken stud. Usually when a general gunsmith tries the fix, it winds up looking like shit. This is a good time to remind people that unless they have a really good reason to go inside the gun, leave the sideplates on. Trigger and hammer studs usually break because people are dicking with the actions with the sideplate off, leaving the studs supported on only one side. You almost never see one broken on a stock gun. It's always on the guns that have been....how did Granderojo phrase it?...."heavily massaged."

All I'm getting from this thread is that you got screwed out of shooting the 20th Anniversary IRC match. Sure this doesn't belong in the Hate category?

Taylor Throating....yeah....probably should send the bullets off to be cryo-treated, too.

I'm not Mike but I like the speer 230s in my 625-8 for everything but the cost in a high volume game. I was getting them for 90 a 1k or something like that. They shot really well. I never tried them in a 1911 much but the five or ten I did put through hit where the sights lifted. I was running 4.0 of clays with an OAL of stands as tall as a remington 230 fmj factory load. I've always felt that most 625s shoot cast lead bullets pretty well. Not sure about swaged lead bullets, not sure I've ever tried any.

Yes, but you're just a little whore.

Sorry for being dense, but I'm missing something: If 25-2 throats are often oversized, why do they shoot jacketed bullets better? Aren't jacketed smaller than cast? Why wouldn't the larger cast bullets shoot better? Tom I'm not convinced the accuracy problems known to exist with the 25-2s and cast bullets is caused by oversized throats. There have been lots of internet postings regarding throat problems on 25-5s, but that's a different gun altogether. I think at least part of the problem with the 25-2s lies with the rifling in the factory barrels. Not exactly sure, but it has always appeared to me that the rifling in 25-2 barrels can get a decent "bite" on jacketed bullets, but allows lead bullets to strip a little. We've discussed this a lot in the past. Most 25-2s don't like lead. Sometimes you can run oversized (.454") or unsized cast lead bullets and have good results.

Keep in mind that 25-2s usually shoot fine--as long as you stick with jacketed bullets. I've reached the point where I don't really want to deal with the smoke and mess from cast lead bullets anyway. I might feel different if I were a high-volume shooter, but those days are in the past for me also.

Good job Tim! The first semester is the hardest. After that you get used to the routine and the fear of failure pretty much goes away. Looking back on it, I really enjoyed those three years. Lotsa work, lotsa stress, but well worth it in the end.

Funny to see this old thread resurface! Since that conversation back in 2006, there's no question that the new generation of moonclip holders (and particularly the North Mountain product) has changed the face of the division. With the North Mountain holder, I like having everything in a more compact space on the belt, and I like the kydex tension that keeps the moonclips nicely in place even when running or jumping, yet allows them to freely slip right off into the loading hand.

Merry Christmas to you as well, Clifford, and everyone else who happens to tune in here. When I started shooting competitively, I never would have dreamed I would experience anything quite like our group of dedicated wheelgunners from all over the world. Wouldn't have it any other way!

Excellent post.

Yes, that was Ned Christianson who did that. Years later, Patrick Sweeney reported on it in one of his excellent 1911 books.

This has been my experience also. I currently own five 25-2s, and I've never seen one that does well with "normal-sized" cast bullets. Some will do OK with unsized bullets, or bullets sized to .454". They shoot fine with jacketed bullets.

That little extra jump in leade would not be enough to cause the bullets to tumble. If nothing else has changed, it almost has to be a sizing issue.

I shot back-to-back Production and Revolver at the 2009 Nationals in Vegas. It was not a good idea. I was getting pretty tired by the time I finally got to the Revolver match. I won't make that mistake again.

Here are some interesting videos featuring the champ: http://www.mefeedia.com/tags/uspsa

Be very careful or you'll strip those threads. If it doesn't turn on easily, back off and start again.

Only the fact that Ruger has never made revolvers that are useful for competition (except perhaps ISPA SSR). They have never made a .45 or 10mm that utilizes moonclips, and they have never offered an 8-shot .357. Too bad, really. It would be good for S&W to have some competition in that area.

Lugnut: The old-style yoke screw looks like any other sideplate screw. Merlin: I'm not aware of any downside to the modification I discussed.

Not anymore. Read post #6 above.

Just goes to show, unless you really know what you're doing, you can create tons of problems dicking with extractors: broken extractors and bent/buggered extractor rods (minor problems), stripped threads (major problem), broken yoke barrels from overtightening (factory repair problem), etc., etc., etc. There is no reason for the average shooter/hobbyist to take apart the extractor assembly. Hell, the only time I ever do it is to do a chamfer job or to replace a bent rod.

Yeah, take out the yoke screw and use pliers to pull out the plunger. Take out the spring and replace it with a small piece of drill rod (or whatever) that is cut to the correct length to create a "solid" yoke screw system that allows the crane to pivot but not come out. It's a trial and error process, but not a difficult thing to do.