PappaJ

Looks good brother! Gonna be time to make some chips pretty soon. I gotta get mine set up and start making some scrap.

So what happened? Oh.... wait..... nevermind. Damn-it! It was good though. Thanks.

* My boy Luke says he can eat 40 eggs, then he can eat 40 eggs * LOL......

Fantastic Job!!! I almost feel like a thief taking your design.... I'm going to get a few sheets of Kydex and make up a few for my SS. Thanks for all the info and pics....

Sorry, I didn't even think to post 'what' Springfield..... it's an older model Loaded. The reason I'm thinking about replacement is improved lock-up. It's not as tight as I'd like. Plus there's a couple of gnarly spots in the rifling and it looks like a little bit of throat erosion (could just be my eyes on that though). It still shoots ok but I have doubts that it's still holding as good as it used to..... Like I said, I'm still thinking about it.

Hey everyone. I just got back on the site a couple of days ago. Sorry if you are needing any of my CMore knobs. I've been out of commision for a while with a serious shoulder and neck problem. I am still in business and working on getting my lathe set up again (blew a control board). Feel free to PM me and I will stay on top of things and get parts out if you need them. Thanks, Joe

I'm contemplating a new barrel on my Springfield. I've dinked around and rebuilt everything else in the pistol and now I 'think' I want to put a new business tube in it. I guess I'm curious as to what everyone's personal preference is. I've been leaning towards a Kart with a Briley bushing but I'm not sure. Fitting it is no big deal, just looking for a somewhat economical solution. This is my main blaster. I shoot USPSA and IDPA with it. Thoughts? Ideas? Thanks, Joe

I have used several different Magwells and S&A are by far my favorite. I'm running one on my Springer build up with CMC Match Mags with no problem. I spend a lot of time blending in the magwell for a seamless finish. I also cut a radius opening in the front strap for quicker mag stripping (if needed) and round off some of the FS checkering (I cut mine at 20 LPI, pretty standard). The radiused cut also 'flows' into the magwell blending. I tend to be an asthetics freak, but if it's for a customer it's gotta be perfect....

I use KG Industries Gun Kote exclusively in my shop. You have to prep you parts correctly though. I'm not sure about the Brownells products, but with Gun Kote the parts have to be cleaned (degreased) blasted with aluminum oxide (120 grit) heated, phos-coated (spray on liquid phosphate coat), heated again then your color of choice applied. Once a nice uniform coverage is achieved you stick it in the 'oven' at 350 degrees for an hour. I've done a lot of firearms and they have held up great. Keep in mind any paint job is only as good as the prep work. You need to use a quality airbrush and don't cut corners otherwise you will be disappointed in the final results.

I have always used a dremel (on low speed) to polish feed ramps. I start out with red jewelers rouge and follow up with Simichrome. I use seperate pointed felt polishing bobs for each. If you have concerns with using a dremel tool (getting too agressive) use a battery powered one. They don't have the RPMs or 'little ponies' to have any concerns about going too far. I use the knuckle of my index finger to 'pad down' my electric dremel and I have never had any ill effects from it. Just my $.02

Looks good man!!

I'm still sore Chris. It actually wasn't that bad. I really thought it was going to be a lot tougher than it was. Let me know when you're ready to reassemble that bad boy!! I'll get her wired up for ya and you're gonna be in heaven Brother!!!

Now THAT'S funny

I got a 29 first try (I'm 36) I'll try it again later.

Just to toss my $.02 in... When I work a hammer and sear I almost always 'cut' through the case hardening on the hammer. When I'm finished I use Kase-Nit (sp?) to redo the surface hardening. Most of the factory hammers are only surface hardened to .003 - .005 so when I cut the hooks to final dimension I'm way past that. I don't want the harder surface of the sear to wear away at the hammer hooks (bad news there) so re-hardening the hammer hooks gives me peace of mind that it won't fail. It's fairly simple to do (MAPP gas torch) if you follow the instructions. Otherwise definitly buy quality parts (A2 tool steel) and be at ease from the get go. Joe