uncle_walty

What else other than ammo can cause this out of battery issue? I've experienced this failure a few times and it usually happens after at least a 100 or so rounds and the gun is dirty. Clean it and no failures for awhile. i was wondering if there was another cause because on my M3K when I ease the bolt into place until the extractor touches the barrel, without a shell, the bolt will not rotate into action. Is this normal? I can bump the butt stock and it'll rotate and lock up. If I pull the bolt handle back just enough to see the face of the bolt in the front of the port and let go, the bolt always rotates and lock up completely. Is my return spring too weak? Should it be strong enough to rotate and lock the bolt even if I ease the bolt handle forward until the extractor touches the barrel? Thanks.

I stick a thin blade screw driver between the aluminum buffer and the plastic end and pry around the circumference. After I get it separated about an 1/8" or so i can pull the plastic end out by hand.

To minimize possibility of having to buy another spring I backed the buffer tube out about 3 turns and clip 1/2 coil at a time. When the bolt finally does not lock up completely after stripping a round off a full mag (from releasing the bcg using the bolt release or from pulling the charging handle all the way back and releasing with muzzle pointing up), I then can basically screw the buffer tube back in the 3 turns to the locked position and gain about a coil of the recoil spring back. The bolt consistently locks stripping from a full mag however there is very little spring tension pushing the bcg forward and i have to be very careful when chambering a round by using the bolt release or making sure I have the CH fully pulled back and release cleanly. Otherwise the bolt may not lock and become a problem since the AIM light weight bcg I'm using does not have forward assist serrations.

I'm jamming on the second round also. The jam happens if the front crimp rim of second round rides over and gets caught on the back rim of the first round. The second round hits the top (actually underside of the shotgun since loading orientation is with shotgun upside down) of the loading port and the back rim of the first round that's in the tube wouldn't let the second round slide down to go into the tube no matter how hard I push on the back of second round. Have to release presssure and find a free finger to snap the front of the second round down. Can't seem to always be able to make sure the second round is allways following directly behind and not with the crimp above the first round. Is there a trick to that? Since I have an 11-87 and the top of the loading port is pretty flat and blunt, I decided to grind a nice chamfer there to see if that'll help guide the second round down over the back rim of the first round. Since I was grinding, I thought why stop there, a chamfer down each side should help. It wasn't helping with the second shell jamming much so I grinded some more. What a mistake. First I got to a point where if the back of the round went in high, which is most of the time since that is being pushed up by the carrier, the back rim of the shell would jam in the freshly ground larger port which apparently now has a slight keyhole or hour glass shape. Had to fix that by grinding the sides more to get rid of the hour glass. Then I got sporadic failure for the shell to get released since with a larger port, the shell can move around side to side more. Had to grind a little from the shell release (hopfully not too much) to fix that but that created sharp edges on the shell release that would cut into and catch the base of the shells preventing the release from retracting fully. Polish that. 11-87 finally running 100% again but the grinding I did didn't really help with the second round jamming problem. Maybe time for 930JM Pro if I can ever find one.

It's a Class 2 Misdemeanor. So is exceeding a 75 mph speed limit in Colorado. Effective date 1 July 2013.

My +4 Choate worked for about 2 years until it disassembled itself 1 week before this year's Johnson 3-Gun. I wasn't using a tube clamp. I tried brazing the tube back onto the nut with a braze paste I found at Home Depot and added the cheap clamp. It held up almost to the end of J3G. Luckily there was a Nordic 50% off coupon in the J3G goodie bag. +++ on Nordic.

First time at Johnson 3-Gun. Had an amazing time. I think our squad 9 was fastest in finishing our stages. No one ever had to wait for us to finish and we almost always got a chance to watch a few shooters shoot the next stage. It wasn't because we shot the stages the fastest, even though we had a couple of good 3-gunners, we just reset well and didn't need reshoots. Well maybe having only 7 shooters, great ROs and the 4H help reset had somthing to do with it. Big THANK YOU to Denise. I know she didn't do it alone but her leadership and hard work is key for such a fun well run and well sponsored match. I'm looking forward to next year. Please. I really like having the 4H kids (and their parents) help reset. Well worth the well deserved tips. Allows me to relax and soak in the match on those stages. I'm willing to pay higher entry or donations for matches if there is reset and taping by 4H, Boy Scouts, high school band or other kids who want to raise money. Much better than magazine subscriptions or wrapping paper, etc. fund raisers IMHO.

I just called CED today and Sue answered the phone on the 3rd ring. Very friendly and helpful.

Thanks for the Double Alpha link. Shooters Connection suggested I contact CED, the distributor for DAA. Everyone was very helpful. Unfortunately the pouches are still relatively new and they haven't had request for those parts yet. Sue did tell me they have the screws for the pouch belt clamp. She'll request my missing parts and let me know if they receive any in the next shipment. I'll see if I can find substitute parts at a hardware store in the mean time.

From what I've read in reloading manuals, over crimp on cartridges that head spaces on the case mouth like the 40 S&W and 9mm Para can cause over pressure if the crimp is tight enough so the round no longer head spaces against the case mouth. The over crimped round gets inserted deeper into the chamber and the bullet can become pinched by the case and chamber throat. Excessive pressures can develop if the round fires. If the round is still head spacing at the case mouth, the higher pressure caused by the tighter crimp should not be a problem unless the load was already at the limit. Deformation from excessive crimp may cause the bullet to tumble with certain calibers.

I guess I'm the only one careless enough to have lost these parts. Anyone have contact info for Double Alpha? The website I find appears to be in the U.K. I'll try calling Shooters Connection to see what they might have.

Anyone know where I can get replacment parts for Double Alpha mag pouches? Just started practicing with my new DAA mag pouches couple of months ago and after one session at the range, I noticed the top adjustment knob, roller and screw missing from one of the pouches. None of the sites that carry the pouches show spare parts for them. I haven't called any of them yet but was hoping someone knows who carries them so I wouldn't have to call them all. If I'm the first to have lost these parts, what does everyone do to keep the tightening knobs from coming loose? I didn't put any Loctite on the threads yet since I was still playing around with the tightness and grip of the pouches. Not sure if Loctite would be enough. I really like the adjustability of these pouches. Anyone discovered equivalent parts that would work for replacements like from Home Depot or Lowes, etc.? Thanks.

Short version: Get a UpLula mag loader and mash down as hard as you can. Long Version: I've searched the threads looking for the secret and even bought some used G22 mags from CDNN to get the older generation untapered mags to get 15+5 with DP basepads. I had to radius the back "legs" of the #2 and #5 followers that came with the old mags so they'd ride over the small lip at the DP basepad interface with the glock mag when 17 or 18 rounds have been loaded. Out of 4 mags and bases, I only got one to load 20 and still lock into the G22 with the slide forward. 2 mags only took 19. And this was after mashing down so hard with the UpLula to dent the brass on the top round. But these used mags had trouble dropping free when empty. Some would drop free with the slide farward but not with the slide locked back. And this was after I'd sanded and polished the mags to get more clearance and silicone lube the mags and well. So ordered some new latest gen G22 mags from OMB Expres. Received mags with #8 followers and mags with the taper and center mag catch. The #8 followers already have well radiused back leg which is also a little shorter than the older followers. No mod needed. Put on DP basepads with + spring. When loading the 18th round just push a little harder with the UpLula to pop the follower over the slight lip and get 20 WWB 180 gr FMJ 40 S&W into the mag. 3 out of the 4 mag had 20 rounds in but absolutly no room left. After mashing the rounds down as hard as I can, I can see the mag spread open slightly as I do this but it seems to settle things in there. Afterwards there is at least 1/8" give pushing down the top round only with my thumb and all 4 loaded mags locks into a slide forward G22 with a forceful reload. Slide hand racks to allow chambering round with not much trouble. Mags function fires fine with 20+1. I don't know why this happened since the older mags do look like they might have more internal volume without the long taper but this is my experience. I tried the #8 followers in the old mags and couldn't get any more rounds to fit. Give it a try. Good luck.

Are the stages posted somewhere? Thanks

Got my DMS-1 from Midway today. The pluses: -Scope now comes with flip up scope covers. -Illumination at 11 is much brighter than the DMS-1 I got in June. I could actually see the illumination come on even at the 1 setting where with the older scope I don't notice it come on until #3. Looks like it has a different illumination circuit board. i notice the difference even after I swap the batteries. -The optics appear clearer out to the edges. Both are generation 2 scopes with the illumination at the turrets. -The magnification ring turns smoother and easier. Also the illumination knob turns smoother and have more positive click. The minus: -A biggie, the field of view is noticibly narrower. At ~9' away, 1X, the new scope has ~31" wide field of view compared to ~34" with the old scope. This translates to ~8' less field of view at 100 yards. Adjusting the eye piece didn't help. Still appears to be true 1X. -The little knob on the magnification ring is located where 0.5X power would be instead of in the middle at 2.5X like the old scope. Goes under the scope when adjusting to 4X. The eye relief might be a little shorter or more sensitive. When viewing through both scopes from about 2 feet away to compare the illumination side by side, the view port or the area you can see through is much smaller in the new scope than the old. Maybe there is a smaller aperture in the new scope. So either the design was changed or this latest lot has a different manufacturer. There are slight cosmetic differences between the gen 2 and 2.x. The Millett name was in this funky green color that I think you can wipe off to get white letters. The gen 2.1 has tan colored letters.

Works great for the money. Don't understand the issue with the illuminaton washing out in bright outdoors since the reticle is nice and clear then. Bought it from Midway 7 months ago for $230. Missed getting a second one for $199 in October but just ordered one from Midway for $199. Deal runs through Jan. Looks like a price increase after this sale since the regular price is now $252.99.

Here's a number for tim at Nordic 320-234-6015 .

Check with Nordic Components. They are the only ones I know that makes an extension for the BPS and someone had indicated that Browning A-5 extensions fits a BPS. Tim at Nordic probably can tell you if their BPS extension nut will fit the Auto 5.

Yendor, What length barrel do you have there with that 8+1 extension and what is the overall length of that extension? I have a BPS where there is 11" from the end of the barrel to the forward surface of the barrel lug where the cap contacts and I'm wondering what length extension would work best. I PM'd Tim but I think he's on a trip and hasn't answered. Thanks.

Thanks Joe. I ordered their last one in stock for $75.95 minus the $10 Google discount with free shipping. Better than Midway's on sale price and they are out of stock. Seems the snobs will have a lot of these Bushnells to sneer at.

Can you tell me where you found it for $65 please. Thanks.

Golden West usually has a small ad in Shotgun News. Daniel is their only distributor that I know of and he's very helpful. Here's his email: Dnaenterprizs@aol.com

Will PACT still honor their warranty after the volume control mod?