chp5

I've not seen this product, but it looks silly to me. I bevel the sharp edges of the slide on my Glocks, especially on the rear serrations. How does the Glock chew on you?

I'm In. Cy

If you use two optics on the rifle, then you're in Open class - not just for rifle but for the match (i.e., you're in Open for rifle, shotgun AND pistol). If you want to be competative, and you don't have an Open pistol and shotgun, then don't use two optics on your rifle. Stick with the Eotech or a low powered variable scope and shoot Tactical division.

Love the one hand long arm shooting

BTW - you can put a rifle length tube on a 16" upper if you use a low profile gas block.

I really like the new JP FF tube.

7 of the top 10 in Standard (LTD), including the HOA, were US shooters. Well done! How about TGO - he never stops. I don't know the whole story, but looking at the Prod scores, it looks like Dave likely had some type of trouble (ammo, gun, or just a really bad stage) that put him into the pack - instead of above the pack where he usaully resides.

I still don't see any final standings. I see the final stage results, but that's it. Am I missing something?

Oh I don't know, I think you may have just INCREASED your fan base So, you lost the $100 arbitration fee?

Thanks for the replies and advice! Cy

OK – it’s not a competition revolver, but here’s my question. I have a line on an older S&W J frame M37 Airweight (1967 vintage). The owner wants $149 for it. The blueing is worn, but not terrible. For that price, I’m considering picking it up. However, I’d want to bob the hammer. Can I get this job done with my trusty Dremel and a file – or is it a bigger job than that? Any help appreciated. BTW – are these older Airweights as durable (e.g., can take +p ammo) and as light as the newer Airweights? Thanks for your thoughts.

Any updated scores?

So what language do they read the stage description in . . . ?

+1 . . . as well as 1911's

I just can't believe that development of a practical alternative fuel is so far out of reach Even with some advancments on hybrids, there're still no great alternatives. I have some conspiracy theories . . .

Mine too, but the stock ones don't.

The mag base pads don't touch the bottom of the mag well, so the bottom of the mag well does not really guard against over insertion anyway. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I am suprised that Glock doesn't do a better job of flaring the bottom of the mag well on their frames. A little bit of flare would go a long way IMO. Could you just heat up the bottom the mag well and slightly flare the very bottom of it? I'm almost sure it's not allowed in Prod, but I think it's fine for LTD. Regardless of the rules issues, has anyone tried this? Would it work?

That is good news. I like the Wolf .223 for plinking and short range stages, but it will occasionally short stroke my 17" upper (full length gas system) because their underloaded. How would a buyer tell it's the new and improved hotter ammo?

Craig, I found mine on Gunbroker, the seller was Military Gun Supply (I believe). It was the best price I found at $260 + shipping.

+1

My #6 followers seem to be made of softer plastic then the #5's. My #6's have fairly deep wear marks on them - with not a lot of use.

I recently picked up the CZ V22 upper. I've shot about 1,000 rounds out of it and only had one malfunction (a light strike). It likes the Win Dynapoint 40 grain rounds. It's huge fun and very quiet as well. It's so quiet that you can shoot it without hearing protection, but I only did it for about 20 rounds. I've only shot it in the pistol bay at 2 - 30 yards. I slapped my Aimpoint on the flat top and it hit at the point of aim without adjustment. I had an extra rifle length FF tube that I put on it as well. It accepts standard one piece FF tubes. All I need now are some hi cap mags!!!! Kurt . . .

Eric - is that the brass THE magwell? I would guess a tunston mag well would be far heavier, but maybe I'm off base.

Very true! Kevin - I also agree with your comments on the grip angle. Like I said, putting a brick on the bottom of a Glock seems like defeating the one of the strengths of the initial design IN MY OPINION. If you guys want to spend $200+ (which will likely be the cost given the materials and machining) to add that amount of weight - then go for it.