Paule

Ones I have seen, and the one I bought, had sidesaddle, 3 chokes (one rifled), extra fiber optic rods for the front sight, and a choke wrench. That's pretty much it.

A weak mag spring or dirt inside the mag body can contribute as well. If the carrier goes full back but comes forward before the next cartridge can lift you will also get a short stroke symptom. If your gas adjustment screw is mostly inside the block it is doubtful you are getting too much gas, but depends on the length of the screw... The LMOS setups seem to like it best with everything very clean and well lubed.

Illumination makes it easier. Triggers your brain to soft focus on just the reticle instead of the moving image behind it. The clearer image in your off eye gets the nod and is combined with the lit-up reticle to give you a fast sight picture. With the TR21 you can actually see the reticle before you get a full field of view. This is the fastest up close as the combined image doesn't chnage even if you stop the gun. If you are looking through the scope, the magnified image will become dominant as soon as you stop the gun.

Benny, maybe we can put our heads together and come up with a spring loaded bloop tube so we can see the sights and still navigate the props! I can shoot irons great with a 36" barrel... well, maybe not great

The TR21's work great for close range, fast shooting. The eye relief is long, so you need room to mount it. Best mount position for shooting on the move is to get it low enough that you only see through the scope with a solid cheekweld, down firmly on the gun. Then, for close-in work, you can mount the gun "heads up", both eyes open, like you would with an Aimpoint. You will see target with your off eye and the triangle with your right eye. You won't actually be looking through the scope, so the reticle will float, unmagnified, on the target image seen on your binocular vision. It takes a little practice, most people I have shown it to pick it up quickly.

A little topic drift... I just finished cutting a M1 Field stock down for my wife. 3/4" was as far as i could go and still use the bottom pad screw. Shorter and the screw would try to exit the lower edge of the stock. She put 100 rds through it yesterday loosening it up. Proclaimed it good to go with 2-3/4 dram 1 ounce RIOs.

The TR21 is a great scope for 3-Gun. If they ever make it on a true 1x-4x, it will be unbeatable, IMHO. I have both the TR21 and TA11B (and TA31F). The TA11 is clearer for longer ranges, but only slightly. For close up the TR21 is faster by a little. The TA31 is slowest of the three.

The ARMS #39A2 works fine on an A1 or A2 carry handle, but won't fit if the gun has a removable carry handle. If that is a consideration, a safer bet is the PRI HR Gooseneck. It will fit virtually any carry handle, and clear the fatter M4 handguards, which the ARMS won't.

I have two 552's, one rev.C, one rev.F. Both have the same mount screw options. I'm using the thumbscrew on one, the hexhead screw on the other. Both have had the tendency to loosen up. Their instructions tell you not to use loctite. I believe this is to prevent wicking of loctite into the area when the clamp moves back and forth. Well, I finally disregarded that and used some on the thumbscrew version. End of the loosening problem. The one I have with the hex screw is mounted on a Larue Eotech mount. It puts the sight 1/4" higher, which is okay. It also makes remounting with a repeatable zero possible. THe hex screw still comes loose though... So I used loctite on that one too. Now both are solid, and the one in the Larue mount can come on and off without having to rezero, which is kinda like doin' the hokey pokey! Recommend that if you use loctite, consider the new stick form. Easier to keep it where you want it and out of places you don't want it.

If you don't want to weld up the bolt carrier, you can also mill or dremel off the section to the rear of the notch. Make that section flat and the same depth as the notch. I heard the JB idea too, but my little voice said "NO!". Thanks for confirming my fear, Kurt! I usually have to learn the hard way...

We sell stocks (in the interest of full disclosure), but also shoot a great deal. That said, here are my observations. The Vltor stocks are stronger and lighter than A1/A2 stocks. The weight savings is important to some. A list of features: 1- Excellent cheekweld (and adjustable) 2- Built-in sling mount point(s) 3- Dry storage tubes (batteries for some, NFA paperwork for others) 4- Adjustable length of pull (even their fixed stocks are adjustable on a carbine tube) 5- Standard or clubfoot butt. The CF is nice for offhand support or prone shooting IMHO, the A1 length is best for a fixed 3-gun stock. We sell more collapsibles generally but more fixed to 3-gunners. The A1 Clubfoot is the top seller. (Maybe because when I got Taran to try one, we ended up putting them on all of his guns and a lot of folks have seen them).

"word" - perfect illustration of the total failure of our public education system. not only can graduates no longer read or write correctly, now even basic speech skills are lost.

The more people I meet, the more I like my dog...

Cowboy Action is the stealth shooting sport. No tactical talk, no professed urge to go fast, just powderpuff loads and replicas of cute old guns from the wild west, (and the getups!). In California they will be the last guns left when the libs out there get through. But all these funny looking guys and gals have some very capable guns that are universally thought to be harmless. for some, there is a method to the madness...

One NO vote for Team America. While the lampooning of the Hollywood left was fun, the disrespect to American military folks was way over the top. The clear message was that patriotism is dumb and anyone who volunteers to serve our country is a fool (characterized by this trash as anyone who listens to country music). Also, the general theme was that America is a collective "big, dumb, out-of-control oaf" who blindly runs around the world blowing up everyone and everything it encounters. Add in a large dose of junior high vulgarity and you have possibly the most mindlessly stupid movie I have ever seen. Made Beavis and Butthead look like an Oscar contender. seeing Janeane Garofolo's head explode was satisfying though...

What recoil reducer did you use on your M1S90? I just finished a new one for my wife and after cutting the stock a 3" mercury cylinder is too long to fit. (I cut the stock down by 0.75"). I did put a limbsaver pad on it but it still pushes her around some, even the 2-3/4 dram 1 oz. loads.

The change varies with different scopes. The main variable is related to the range the scope is set to be parallax-free versus the range you happen to be shooting. Some scopes have parallax adjustment to minimize this. Others are preset at 100 - 150 yards (or some other distance depending on the intended use, e.g. shotgun scopes are sometimes set at 50 yards.) Easy to check if you have a solid padded vise for your shooting bench. Or you can bag heavily and do the same thing. Just position the gun with the reticle on a target at a known distance, say 300 yards. Lock the gun down, or pad it in so it won't move. Carefully look through the scope and move your head around, watching the reticle move from the target. You will be able to see how far off a "good hold" can be if you eye position is different from the one used to zero the gun. Always makes me want to practice more...

Sphinx started importing their 2000 and 3000 series pistols a couple years ago. Same design as the Tanfogs, well made. Not cheap, but the design still opints as well as any made, IMHO. I have three Tanfog Limited 9-paras though, so I am a believer. Great steel guns.

All the YHM extensions I have seen had the same issue. They tighten down, but are under stress, and shoot loose. Squeezing them in a vise until tight, then whacking the vise (not the mount or receiver!) a couple times will stress relieve the mount so it will "remember" the tight position. Careful though, easy to get it too tight, where it won't come off the receiver.

Sorry, no pics yet. Still waiting on the working prototypes to be finished. Like most new projects, estimates seem to fade into the mist when the deadlines approach. We just got in our first full shipment of lightened hardchrome carriers, (that were ordered in March for early June delivery). Yep, it's October... At least they finally got here. I'll post pics of the mounts here as soon as I have them.

I wish they were 8 ounces, instead of 17 (I actually think they will be between 15 & 16 ounces, the 2.5-10x is 17 and it's an inch longer). They are the same weight as a Leupold LR-M3. Hard to make they much lighter and still be as strong. You can pound nails with them, but it messes up the anodizing... MSRP is $1057, and their minimum advertised price is $1004.15.

For all of you who are Leupold illuminated reticle owners (me included), I can thankfully say that the NXS illumination is nothing like the designs that Leupold builds. As to the 1-4 and 2.5-10 models, they depart from the bigger NXS scopes in that they have external brightness adjustments, from very dim to daylight bright. All NXS reticles are etched-glass, so the whole reticle lights up, not just the center, as many of the Leupolds do. The controls are very positive, no worry whether you actually got it turned off either. The FC-2 and NP-1 reticles are the two most suitable for close-up, fast shooting. The standard mildot is not available in the 1-4 and 2.5-10, a "close range" mildot reticle is offered. The bars are smaller and the center section (with the mil graduations) is etched to appear finer. The NP-R2 is the same reticle, but appears to be smaller and takes up a smaller portion of the FOV. For mid-long range tactical shooting the NP-R2 is a terrific reticle. Not too fast up close and personal however. It is my favorite by far in the 3.5-15x and 5.5-22x scopes.

I don't have pics of the mount yet, but will within a few days. The scope will come with a choice of four reticles. The best of the lot for 3-Gun will likely be the FC-2. I'll get a pic of it and post it as soon as I can. It's a 1.5 moa dot in the center of a 10 moa circle. Horizon lines left and right with a half-height post under the circle. The reticle is fully lit (unless you turn it off). With a fresh battery it is visible in sunlight. Not sure what the effective battery life will be on full power, but it is supposed to be 700 hours at "normal" settings. I expect less using it lit during sunny conditions. The scope itself is typical NXS, 17 oz. but able to withstand all of Mother Nature's fury and her Marine Corps brethren. 30mm tube, straight to front with slightly larger occular lens housing. Around 9" overall length. Besides the reticle, these are actual 1x at the low setting, so they work just like any reflex sight for close-up work, and a quick twist gets you a bright, clear 4x. One of our good customers, an admitted glass freak, has sent his new Schmidt & Bender 1-4x back for warranty service after he told them it was not as good as the 2.5-10x NXS he got. S-B decided this was impossible, must be something wrong with their scope! Glad to provide more detail as soon as I get the mounts, and more scopes. The word on the 2.5-10x is out now and we can't seem to get enough of them.

The new mount is nearly done. 150 are supposed to come back from finishing by Friday. Still will need to be gauged and assembled, but I should have them for sale within a couple weeks. I have three of Taran's uppers here right now, waiting for the mounts. (We built the uppers for him too). He has been using the YHM mount but having many problems with them holding zero. We designed the new mount with the Accupoint in mind, but it will also work well with the other 1-4x scopes that are in the marketplace. The new Nightforce NXS 1-4 is one we are planning to test extensively when they are available (around January 1 is the latest prediction). It is supposed to be a true 1-4x, like the SN-4 only a lb. lighter! The Larue M4/SR25 mount will work with an A2 or fully extended Crane stock, but the eye relief on the TR21 is long. The rear of the occular lens housing has to be about even with the trigger for most folks. Not quite a scout, but out there looking for one...

The large pin CMC triggers do not fit receivers with a sear block. Has to be milled out first. A machinist you trust can do it for $25-35, typically. Take the trigger along so he can see what is needed. The milling is very straightforward.