Dirty Rod

Call CS. I lost a few and they had a couple out to me in a few days.

I'm still on the fence about my WFT. I've been trying it out on .223 but I can't get the consistent OAL that others seem to be able to get. Still working with it though.

Sizing die. As stated before its neck tension that holds the bullet. Using those same Berrys 115gr bullets I can seat the bullet and without crimping it push it against the bench and it doesn't move. With the lightest of crimp I can chamber 5-6 times with no measurable setback. When I pull bullets you can barely see any sign of a crimp.

There is a min for every caliber. I believe SAAMI specs a min of 1.190 for .45 ACP. As mentioned above, different vendors and loads can range from min to the max of 1.275 for .45. What's listed in the book is what was tested. Most factory cartridges are loaded shorter than max to ensure that they feed in all of the various pistol chambers. You may also find that a 1.275 round does not eject properly on some guns. If you do shorten the round pressure will increase so you shorten slowly and test until it functions reliably. A couple of thousandths won't be a problem unless you are close to the max charge. Most folks find the perfect OAL first and then work up their charges. If 1.275 works in all your guns then you don't HAVE to shorten it but you will probably gain some reliability if you do. As stated, just drop your charge back down some and work up slowly. Yup. With magazine fed cartridges you will probably find that most folks load to the max length that the mag will accept and stop there. Bolt guns and rounds for single fed AR's can be all over the range depending on who's book you use.

Definitely agree. My first pistol barrel wore out at 50k rounds and that was very short considering I've got friends with 125k rounds through some of their barrels. I'd definitely focus on the accuracy and feel of a load rather than barrel longevity. Compared to the cost of the components to put even 50k rounds through the barrel the replacement cost of the barrel is just not that significant.

Welcome from Phx and to something other than square range shooting.

Colt HBAR 7.62x39 Sporter with C-More on top. Parts SBR in .223 on the bottom (Spikes lower, PSA upper, Colt Barrel, RRA, LaRue, Aimpoint, Troy, etc)

We've been testing it for a while now but decided to forgo it and stick with Win7. I've got 43k workstations/laptops and there are still serious compatibility issues with I.E.9 for major apps and some of our major app vendors have no plans to certify their apps on it at this time. Another issue is driver stability issues across our standard devices especially with some of our mobile carts as well as a handful of security issues. Another big issue is training. Since the interface is so different, training for our 75k clinical users is huge. Maybe one day. A few pretty cool new features though.

Kinda depends on what you are loading and how much case prep you want to do. For pistol loading, most folks, especially those loading on a progressive, leave the primer in for cleaning. Some single stage folks remove them so the primer hole gets cleaned. Like John Wayne stated, I leave them in for pistol and for .223 but for loading precision rifle I tumble, remove and do brass prep, clean again with the primer removed, and then prime and load.

You can learn a lot about scope by cruising the vendor sites and looking through the tech sections. The Bushnell link below and the SWFA link are good for the learning the parts of a scope. The nightforce and Zeiss links can give you some general information on recticles and give you an idea on what the differences are. http://www.opticstalk.com/riflescope-school_topic5027.html http://www.bushnell.com/products/scopes/riflescopes/tech-talk/ http://nightforceoptics.com/reticle-detail/ http://www.zeiss.com/sports After that you can cruise the various vendor sites (Vortex, S&B, NF, Leupold, Ziess, etc) and see the various models and then check out the link below and you can see the various reviews. http://www.snipercentral.com/scopereviews.htm This was that path I followed and, by the end, I had a good idea of features that I would need/want plus an idea of what they all cost. In the end you will definitely need to define "long range". It's common for folks to buy a whole bunch of magnification that they will really never use. I, for instance, have a 22X scope but I'm usually 8-12X at 500 yards. Look into Shoot-N-Cs or other reflective targets for better visibility. Very easy to see your shots out to 300 yards when working up your loads. Hope that helps.

Might be a replacement turret or a factory mistake. I've seen that before.

Since the pics show side by side for me so I'll just say that the first one you mentioned looks like a 1/8 MOA adjustments and the second looks like a 1/4 MOA adjustments.

I've seen and experienced much worse. A resizing die will take that right out but I've had brass hit the case mouth or even get caught by the slide and tear the metal. No big deal especially if he doesn't reload otherwise tuning the extractor or ejector will most likely take care of although it might be little more challenging on that gun since I don't believe it has a lowered and flared ejection port.

Sounds like this especially if the mags were dropping free prior. Did you replace the standard grip screws with the shorter screws made for thin grips? Easy test. Back out the grip screws and see if it stops. You should also be able to remove the slide and see where the mag is binding.

You can go crazy on brass prep but the benefits of certain steps are debatable and the benefits really depend on what you are loading, shooting distance, and your skill as a shooter. For .223 and x39 my brass prep is pretty much just trimming when they need it. Precision rifle can require a little more but I know really good shooters that regularly shoot out to 1200 yards that do little more than just trim their brass. I do clean the primer pocket and uniform it using Lyman hand tools on .308 but I couldn't tell you if it makes a difference. I also use a Hornady Concentricity Gauge but I can't seem to see any difference shooting steel at 500 yards between rounds that have .001-.002" of runout versus .004-.005". There was a guy on Snipers Hide recently that added runout on purpose and shot some groups and the groups were not significantly different. I don't own a bullet comparator or an OAL gauge because I load to mag length and headspace using fired cases so they won't benefit me much. Not sure I agree on your plan to only reload your brass twice. I don't anneal either but I'm at 5-6 loads so far with .308 but I'm not loading hot. Considering how expensive good brass is I would rethink that one. I'm assuming that you already reload pistol and understand the basics. If you have the ABCs of Reloading on your bench it has pretty good explanations of the steps involved with rifle loading. If you are just getting into rifle shooting then some of those tools like the centricity gauge can probably wait until you have a load and can consistently shoot under an inch with it. Similarly, if you are not using crimped brass you don't need a swager.

Welcome from Phoenix.

I shot my second IDPA match today and actually did pretty well both times. The one thing I did before I actually shot a match was to watch a few matches and when I shot I tried to relax and to just focus on putting the sights on target and not rushing through any of the stages. As a result I ended up first in the CDP unclassified group, only dropped 8 points, and ended up only 20 seconds off the CDP Expert winner today. I did some steel matches as well over the last couple of weeks and the more I tried to slow down and just focus on the sites the accuracy went up and the scores got better. I think what is helping me is that I'm trying not to rush and watching and talking to the other shooters. I'm sure the experienced guys can offer all kinds of advice but those two things seem to be helping me.

Federal, Speer, Blazer, and that other ATK companies have been making small primer .45 brass for over a year. Lots of folks believe that eventually all .45 brass will be small primer since it will allow ammo companies to eventually stock just one primer size for handgun ammo.

Edit: Oops .... I didn't realize that he had brought back a thread from the grave.

If you want to crank out ammo faster then I think you need to pick a progressive and forget about the whole single stage priming process. Just the fact that you are processing each case twice is going to cut your time in half and as long as the press is set up correctly there is no advantage in priming on a single stage press over a progressive.

+1 on the dremmel followed up with paint in the groove. Over the years I've tried sharpies, labels, fingernail polish, model paint, etc by themselves and they all eventually peeled or chipped off.

How does that load shoot? Very well. 4.5gr is actually more consistent on the chrono though. Here is the data for them. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?/topic/152558-New-loads-and-a-couple-questions Sorry, DR ... the link doesn't do anything. Must be something missing. Strange. Takes me right to the thread. Anyway here is the chrono data for the load. 4.4 gr of 231, OAL 1.135 +/- .003 Berrys plated 115gr FMJ Ave - 1026, High - 1057, Low - 994, ES - 62.68, SD 18.41 1020, 1024, 1044, 1023, 1022, 1057, 1026, 944 (Tossed out 1) 4.4 gr of 231, OAL 1.135 +/- .003 Berrys plated 115gr FMJ Ave - 1022, High - 1055, Low - 998, ES - 57.89, SD 21.21 1006, 1023, 1055, 1037, 1045, 1006, 998, 1009 (Tossed out 1) 4.5 gr of 231, OAL 1.135 +/- .003 Berrys plated 115gr FMJ Ave - 1036, High - 1043, Low - 1027, ES - 16.44, SD 5.83 1040,1036,1043,1030,1040,1033,1027 (Tossed out 2)

How does that load shoot? Very well. 4.5gr is actually more consistent on the chrono though. Here is the data for them. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?/topic/152558-New-loads-and-a-couple-questions

I'm using 4.4gr of 231 @ 1.140 for Berrys 115gr RN.

Naw. Just make sure you don't stand too close to the decapper ...