Dirty Rod

Dillon, RCBS, and Hornady e-scales all worked well for me with RCBS being the preference. Make sure you get a good set of check weights with it.

+1. I have both beam and electronic and consider the scale the most important piece of reloading gear I have. Prefer electronic but occasionally use the beam for precision rifle. Dillon, RCBS, Hornady, etc all worked fine for me but I prefer RCBS. Going too cheap is just asking for trouble even with a good set of weights.

The more often someone shoots the less frequently they tend to clean. Fortunately, guns don't need to be super clean to run reliably as long as there is lube. When I was shooting 500 rounds a year, I cleaned my guns right after each trip. Now that it's 1000 rounds a month for me and my wife, it's every 3-4K rounds or when the springs need to be changed with just lube and a wipe down after the range. Only my carry stays clean. 10k rounds in a day? That would be exhausting. Even 1k would be a lot for me.

CFE or TAC for me with Hornady 55s.

I've had that issue on this forum for the past few weeks. Works fine on all the other forums I visit with Tapatalk.

I'd send it back and have SA look at it. It's on their dime so it won't cost you anything but time. My wife's 9mm RO is almost as accurate as my full custom. I assume you've verified your sights aren't moving. Simple but my wife's EMP had me scratching my head before I thought to check for something simple and found that the rear sight was loose.

Same here. I don't spray directly into the case mouth.

I have one of each on two presses. After 15k rounds or so on each, I actually prefer the factory ball handle.

Wow! .223 at 600+. You guys are better than I am. At 500 I was really lobbing them out there and even my 75gr bullets were pushed badly if there were any gusts. Very impressed.

I get the blue dot but, on mine, it's for threads that have new or unread posts in them.

Worked for me tonight. I deleted the account and recreated it on TT and it's working now.

Definitely want to check the map. Sedona is at least 2 hours from Rio. Rio puts on a good match but something in Flagstaff or around Sedona will save a lot of driving.

If you unload, remove the slide, and insert the mag slowly looking down from the top you can see where they could be binding. Often one brand of mag is a couple thousandths thicker so it could be the side of the mag catch, grip screws rubbing, etc. Just removing the mag catch will sometime quickly isolate it. On one or two guns, I've needed to relieve one side of the mag catch with a couple strokes of a file. One of my Baers is was just a little narrow in one spot so it needed a couple strokes inside the frame to work with my mags. Sometimes its a 2 minute fix.

Ammo cans for each caliber marked with the load on the outside. Since I use pretty much the same powders and the bullets I use don't vary much in accuracy or POI, I don't sort any further than that. For precision rifle, I use 50 round ammo ammo boxes marked with the load used.

Lots of tutorials on the process on YouTube however the ABCs of Reloading and the Lyman manual are good places to go to start learning the process of reloading.

Wow!

Been using them both for years. Can't really tell much difference and they both work well for me.

A lot of us have separate presses for large and small primers.

It looked and sounded like it was just brass to me.

Unless you don't have time to load, I would focus on components. Why pay twice as much per round

I had two factory Springfields that started loosing accuracy around 40k. I replaced the barrel on one but the other, around 65k now, is shooting about 8" groups at 25 yards. From the factory, it was around 4". My custom guns seem to lose accuracy at the same rate but just start around 2" versus 4".

Until you know what loads will run well in your guns I would not stock up on powder. Buying primers and maybe a few boxes of FMJ pistol rounds is OK but I'd stop there until you test a couple of different brands, bullet weights, and powders and figure out what works best in your guns. I'd also start with pistol and get that down before you start rifle. A can or two of 231 is a good place to start for pistol powder though. Just my suggestions.

"Best" is subjective but tends to be what works in your gun. Wilsons work well in my full size RO.

They still offer a lifetime warranty on their guns but you better get wallet out to pay for all that ammo. My carry only has about 16k through it but the LW Champion I traded my neighbor is closing in on 65k without any appreciable frame wear. Even if they didn't warranty it the cost of a new frame is small compared to the cost of all that ammo.

Not with Winchester but I use 26.5gr with the very popular 55gr Hornady FMJBT bullets. Very good accuracy out of all my ARs. I've only chrono'd one rifle but that gave me 2,563 fps out of my 11.5" SBR with an SD of 53 and an ES of 90.