retarmyaviator

I have never competed with a HP but it is a fine weapon. I carried one when I was stationed in El Salvador in the late 80s. I still think highly of them enough so that one stays on my nightstand.

Trial lawyers and honorable people generally are contradicting terms.

I returned my M&P 9mm Pro to S&W in October to have them check the barrel for accuracy problems. It was returned within ten days with a new barrel at no charge.

It isn't just Soviet, the US Army used bi-metal bullets in M2 30 cal and 7.62 NATO. Winchester .308 FMJs are also bi-metal, item # WB762147N.

Actually that does make me feel a lot better, only hoping there is another similar facility slam full of lawyers.

Call Dillon they will give you the part numbers. You are correct that the shell plate and pins will be the same as for 8X57 Mauser. The 8X57 powder funnel will not work due to its length. You will receive a 7.62X39 powder funnel that you will have to modify the neck area to use with the Kurz cases. Dillon can provide the information for that modification. I have used this with a 550B and a 650, works fine. If you have any problems feel free to contact me via PM. You may want to check out machinegunboards.com for additional information, that site is much more in tune with reloading for full autos than this one.

The Tula primers I have been shooting are at least four to five years old. I bought them two years ago from a Glock shooter that was having reliability problems with them and had let them sit for a few years. As I said above they have worked fine in my M&Ps.

For over a year I have had 100% reliability with Tula primers using a M&P 9mm Pro, M&P 40 FS and a M&P45. All used reloads reloaded on a Dillon 650 using Tula small pistol primers. The only modification to the pistols was the addition of Apex trigger kits to the 40 and 45.

I used a hardwood plywood for my most recent bench. After staining I applied several coats of satin polyurethane and was very pleased with the results.

I keep the original Dillon handle by the back door to pop my neighbor's dog with. Only good use I ever found for it.

Works well for me.

He just gave more ammunition to those calling for more control, that's all. His writing is very typical of the Fudd mentality.

Of late from just reading posts on this forum, mainly in the Dillon section, there seems to be a growing aversion to reading the instructions before starting to reload.

I ran into that with some Federal NT 40 S&W. Do not know for sure it was crimped but after I ran it through a Dillon 600 swagger the problem of crushing primers disappeared.

Well, at our club your attitude would be the one to fall into the inconsiderate category. We all help to assist in resetting stages and picking up the last shooters brass between shooters. Does not slow the process one bit. My match is a very friendly place to shoot. I just don't tolerate inconsiderate people very well. It doesn't have to be about brass either.

Military brass will normally have as a head stamp a two letter code and the last two digits of the year it was produced. Example LC 85. Be sure to check your brass for Berdan primers, these will have two off center holes in the primer pocket rather than a single hole such as you find with boxer primed brass.

Sounds like a friendly place to shoot. If that had been my introduction to USPSA I would have told them to stick it where the sun didn't shine.

My local club has the standard that in each squad some score, some reset / tape targets and some pickup the brass to return to the shooter. Works well and no one fusses.

I would highly recommend you review the instructions, refer to page 27 for instructions on the primer system. The tubes with the brass ends go inside the black vertical tube, they convert it to either small or large primers. Those tubes with the pin holes are used to fill the brass tipped tubes once they are inserted in the black steel tube. http://www.dillonhelp.com/manuals/english/Dillon-XL650-Manual-May-2007.pdf

SOF was a much better magazine in the 70s and 80s than the current neutered version.

Probably so, some folks only buy 100 at a time.

I switched to SP 45 cases and found the added benefit of other shooters being happy to turn them over to you after picking up brass.

Not that much of a good deal. 1000 blemished 115 gr JHP from Midway would cost you $118.90 plus shipping, 1000 FMJ 115 grain from Precision Delta would be $93 which includes shipping.

Why not buy separate tool heads for the 550? With dedicated tool heads for each caliber the changes are nothing more than pulling two pins, replacing the tool head and changing the shell plate. No adjustments, no messing with the powder measure.

I recently sent my M&P 9mm Pro back to S&W to have the barrel checked due to grouping issues. Original test fire date was 23 May 12. Pistol was returned last week with a single dot replacement barrel. Very much improved performance to say the least.