klee

This happened to me twice in 9 major and once in 38 super. It's just a weak case that burst especially on super because we pickup and reuse the brass.

Also, you may want to seat and crimp with 2 separate dies.

Are you sizing the case down far enough?

9mm should be light.

You shouldn't use red in any part of the gun. Blue is sufficient without being permanent.

Recoil master or guide rod? If you are using guide rod, what # spring are you using. How is the extractor tension? Is the extractor tunnel dirty? AFTEC maybe your solution but you may want to check everything else 1st.

I'm just shooting a 38S Turbor, no holes for the past 4 months with MG 124s. I finally ran out but had 1k of 115s laying around. I loaded about 100 to see if I like it and I have to say I can track the dot a lot better than 124s. Also the gun doesn't seem as "sluggish". I shot a match with the 115s last Sunday and really liked it. I'm using 8.6gr of N350 but i haven't chrony it yet. I'm sticking with 115s from now on.

Agreed. I just went from 124mg to 115mg and I like it a lot. Plus you get an extra 250 bullets (compared to 124s). Coated bullets are cheaper, but I'm just too lazy to clean the comp after every match.

I use Federal SR primers in everything. No problems even in Glocks. Very little difference, if any between Fed SP & SR as far as fps.

I just got the pivothead and I like it so far(also since the 100 price drop). Very easy to use from the get-go. Get the airsync too so its easier to down load on to your smart phone. Picture quality is very good.

9 lbs should be good. You can order different weights from 8-10 and see since springs are cheap. I'm running #9 on my 38S Trubor at 173pf.

Case neck tension is what holds the bullet. The crimp is just to remove the bell. If you rely on the crimp to prevent bullet set-back, you are not sizing properly.

I just tumble the finished rounds for about 10-15 minutes to get rid of the lube. I know some frown upon this but I never had an issue.

Stupid question, did you tumble or clean the brass before this?

It's a lot easier since 9 is a tapered case. 9major especially, a lot of powder spill without lube.

You are fine. Too much takes a lot longer to dry.

Nice, just think how much faster in another 5 years! Sucks I couldn't practice with you guys today.

I use clear RTV to bond the metal spacer in the tube (make sure the mating surface is clean). Then I stuff twisted magazine paper inside the tube for 24 hours so the metal spacer makes a strong bond to the tube. It's been working fine for me with the same guts you got and the SNL pad.

I went from a shorty 9 major to a trubor 38 super. I seem to feel the super is a bit flatter than my 9. The trubor doesn't have any holes but seems to really flatten out and move the least at around 175-178 pf. I heard from a friend who shot one of akai's stroked 9 and said it's the softest and flattest gun he have ever shot. I cant wait to try it.

After reading this thread makes me realize I've been slacking off. I used to dry fire in the morning for 20 min 3-4 times a week. Now I'm lucky if I do it once a week.

Federal, never has a problem. I did get a few CCIs(for pistol) that didn't light up.

Get the EGW "u" die.

Not that I know of unless you buy them "tuned" from someone like Akai, Dawson, etc. All 9mm mags start from 38super mag tubes and you add parts from there.

I zero off-hand at around 15-20 yards, seems to work fine.

I've only shot about 30 rounds with the RTS2 and I have to say I like it a lot. I seem to pickup the dot faster than my regular c-more. My only problem is the cheely mount's noticeable offset to the left. I guess I'm going to use the Arredondo like Supermoto until someone else makes one that's more centered.