promod1385

Your comparing apples to apples to apples here, all of them will get the job done in a similar way and will likely satisfy your needs. I am a BCM fan boy and my uncle (a fed and the person I know who has put the most rounds down range in the platform swears by stuff from DD). Buy what you can get your hands on (or can get the best deal on). You wont be disappointed.

Slip 2k EWL!

I had am m223 and my buddy has the tac30, for the money the glass of the tac30 is about a million times better. I wouldnt consider them to be in the same ball park. Get the Tac30!

In my experience Gray guns always wants to do "packages" when it comes to modding a Sig. You can save quite a bit of money looking at someone like: http://www.totalautomation.us/ I only want two minor things done to my X5 and I can save about $300 going with Total Automation.

I have not cleaned mine since new. I have been "running it till it malfunctions" and have not had one yet (35** rounds). I put a couple small drops of RemOil or Slip 2k (whatever is handy) on the rails and that is it! Do not put any lube in the striker channel and you should be gtg.

I would look at a Bladetech or a CompTac. I have a Safariland kydex with the suede and I find it to much more abrasive than a regular kydex holster. The XD's have the toughest finish going for a factory gun right now. Kydex is not going to hurt it.

I presume this is a joke... You are comparing apples to oranges, you are comparing a top fuel dragster to a stock mustang. They are both very nice but the Bear is a hand built purpose built absolute dream of a 1911. The Ruger is a production line gun and nothing more, you might be a good one but then again you might get a Friday gun!

Trigger time, its all about trigger time! I have read the book and it helped me learn a lot about the mental aspect of the game, deveoloping a sight picture, etc... However the bottom line is that trigger time is what its all about! GET SOME!

A wise old 3gunner onece recommended that I use locksmith graphite in my high capacity magazines. The little bit of dry lube can really help these mags work better.

Most 3gun shoots require the use of 5.56 or larger for the rifle portion. My local club hosts outlaw 3gun matches where they allow the use of pistol caliber carbines for the rifle, typically they make those guy shoot "open" class if they want to go that route.

I had a Cooley comp on my 1st 3gun rifle. It did a nice job. I have the Nordic Corevette on my current gun and its a bit louder but I think i feel it does a better job of controlling rise.

Yep all three of mine fit the gauge (they work good too!)

My Toreass required a different hammer as the stock part is a MIM part and one of the hammer hooks fell off while we were stoning it. I added a new hammer and a EdBrown Hardcore sear spring, it ran like a top! Great gun for the money, I learned alot about USPSA using it, liquidated that gun along with a few others to upgrade to a higher end limited gun. Its the only one I regret selling.

Watch Summitgunbroker website. He regularly sells trade in and CPO Sigs.

I have a 24" turkey I built up before the JM hit the market. I waited as long as I could and eventually bought a 24" turkey model. I have about the same amount of money in it as I would buying a 930JM. No need to cut the barrel, I added a Nordic clamp and some sheet metal covers to cover the ports and make me legal for Tac, it works well. I have shot one major event and my gun was inspected by the RM, he didnt have a problem with the covered ports as they give no advantage when covered.

I missed out on the last run by less than 3 hours. I would love to buy a well equipped .40SS gun without having to got he custom route. I have been waiting for a .40 MAXX Sig too and my dealer has seen none.

The giggle factor of shooting 10mm is what I would want. I dont think there is any advantage to competing with a 10mm gun, but they are fun to shoot!

Most COF are set up for 8rounds. Very rarely is SS minor an advantage.

There is nothing wrong with squading yourself away from someone if it will make your day more enjoyable, on the flip side of that coin everyone pays the same entry fee and thus is entitled to do there own thing when the buzzer goes beep. Anything beyond that is just good or bad manners and BS (dont take the BS personally and dont let those guys under your skin, they get off on getting a rise from people). There are only a couple shooters here in the MN scene who I squad myself away from. Most of that comes from my rookie season of shoooting and the way they treated me as a noobie (I finally explained to the one guy "I may be young and I may be a new shooter but it doesnt mean I am unsafe or dont understand wtf is going on") he probably thought he was coaching or being helpful and I really interpreted it as him talking down to me because of my age. We havent had a cross word since and I still squad myself away from him when possible because he tends to be the guy demanding a re-shoot or throwing a fit about something insignificant. It tends to slow a squad down and I dont care for that. Anyone who shoots with me will tell you I like to bust balls and dish out just as much BS as I am given. Its part of taking off the competitive edge and its just part of my personality. I work construction and on a jobsite no one gives a damn about hurting someones feelings or offending someone, I was raised in the trades and its just how my world works. If someone is sitting in the shade and not working I am not afraid to hand a string of pasters to someone and tell them to lend a hand. If someone wants to be a show up 15minutes late and leave as soon as THEY are done shooting kinda guy I usually pick up on this after the first time I shoot with them and I then try to work them like a rented mule in the future. If they wont set up or tear down you can be damn well sure I will have them pasting and setting steel at every opportunity.

I am running a true Dissipator set up (16" barrel with rifle length gas system). People who talk about dwell time and reliability need to test out a few different buffer weights before they jump to the conclusion these systems dont work. I have a standard carbine weight buffer in my rifle and it runs like a top!

Slip 2000 EWL. its the best lube I have found for my AR's.

Slip 2000 EWL. its the best lube I have found for my AR's.

I would look at it like this. Which gun are you going to use the most? Do you plan on shooting sniper matches? Are you planning on taking up USPSA? I would look at a nice pistol if you plan on shooting USPSA and I would spend no more than $1000-1500 to build my first rifle (I had exactly $958 invested in my first 3gun rifle and optics). It taught me that I enjoy shooting irons a lot more and at most 3gun distances optics are just as fast or faster than a scoped rifle. Shotguns are shotguns in my opinion. I have a 930 I reworked for 3gun and its a lot of gun for the money. You will get a lot more out of learning to reload the shotgun than spending money on a fancy 3gun shottie. Get some dummy rounds and start learning to stuff that tube! Reloading is the time sink in 3gun and matches are often won and lost based on the shotgun skills.

Just because they are in the same price point doesnt mean these two optics are in the same leagues. I had an M223 and my buddy has a Mtac. The Mtac is a much better optic! Its illuminated and the glass is much better in my opinion. I would never consider another m223, it was just too dark.

Your running crap ammo through a quality barrel and wondering why your not getting better results? It makes little to no sense. I would scrub the throat as described above. Is the ammo your using a laquer case? If so there maybe build up somewhere. Have you scrubbed the bolt face?