promod1385

BCM light weight. My roomie just got a 14.5 pinned with all the BCM goodness, its a nice piece of kit, very handy little rifle.

I run a Nordic Corvette comp, its a nice piece and easy on the pocket book!

Black Hole will do you a very thin profile for about $275, also BCM is a good option. My roomate just got a light BCM 14.5, its a very nice handling little rifle.

I have a 16" "dissipator" style gun, rifle gas and 16" barrel with a rifle weight buffer, it works well.

I have a Springer in my 3gun/production gun. Its been a good part.

I have a scandium framed S&W in commander size. Its been a great gun, I run CMC Power+ Mags and it is extremely reliable! The only change has been the addition of a 23lb Wolff spring. I like to think the heavier spring helps buffer the frame a bit, as it is scandium it will eventually fatigue and fail.

CR speed was my reco, buy once/cry once. It will change your game for the better!

Well I look at it like this... You plan on running a longer tube? YES! You plan on running a clamp with longer tube? YES! Use a beer can or some light weight sheet metal (I bought a roll of aluminum flashing at Menards for $8) and make a small strip to go under the clamp and cover the ports. You will be legal then.

Mossberg 930 Turkey model is a great base for a 3gun shottie.

Shooting is like motor sports and the old saying goes "speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?" How much do you want to spend is all relative to what your trying to achieve. I spent less than $1000 to get in to 3gun and used an old 870 I have, I didnt feel out gunned in the least and it took me a few events to learn what I liked/didnt like and I made informed decisions from there. What do you already have? What division do you want to shoot in? Do you plan on traveling to any major events? All of these quesitons need to be answered but the bottom line is you need trigger time! All the bells and whistles arent going to mean much to you at this point, get out and shoot some events spend your money on ammo and practice, practice, practice!

Happy I snagged a couple stripped lowers in a group buy last year. Working on building up the last one right now. I wish I had 10 and then I might be done for life worrying about this BS.

Walmart here in my area is already starting to bounce back, the media blitz on gun control coupled with the holidays just cleaned them out some local sporting goods stores were the same way (mostly for .223) handgun ammo was still readily available here at Scheels in the midwest they did however impose a two box per/person limit (I am sure if I had explained I needed the ammo to attend XY or Z competition) they would have made an exception.

I shoot a dissipator as its the best of both worlds. Very soft shooting (with a Nordic Corvette comp there is little to no muzzle rise) and I get the little extra bit of sight radius which is absolutely clutch when shooting irons. Most of our local events are shot on pistol bays so there is no need for anything longer, I think my next rifle will be a 20" Blackhole in the LRT profile with a Lipinsky front sight base and a globe

I know Benelli makes a higher capacity version they sell in Europe, I am sure they are not importing it for some sort of legal reason. I wouldnt be surprised if you never see one come out of the aftermarket there just isnt much demand as this gun is not very popular I suppose that could change if Benelli sells a few thousand more here in the US.

I know some guys (I believe PE Kelly as a good example of a top tier pro) wear a glove for just this reason. Watch some youtube videos.

Plum crazy has there own fire control group and its likely what your seeing. I dont know if they have a "low mass hammer" but I do know the trigger in the ones I have handled is a cut above a standard AR trigger. That being said everyone poo poos on the plum crazy stuff because they are cheap and plastic. I certainly wouldnt sink a bunch of money in to a competition gun based on a plum crazy. If you want to talk optics I presume you plan on shooting in the tac optics division, I suggest you do a search on here and do some reading. The question of "what optic for a 3gun newb" gets posted here weekly, no need to go down that road. Same with load data, If you want load data go look in the reloading section of this forum. At most 3gun distances just about any cheap ammo will be good enough (better ammo is more consistent and thus more accurate, however you wont see that untill past 2-300yds). I look at AR's like this: better barrels and triggers will give accuracy, bolts will make it strike and eject as they should , good magazines and ammo are necessary for it to be reliable. Dont get hung up on having all of the best stuff for starting out in 3gun, get out and shoot! Trigger time will make you better, not fancy guns.

Yep barrel vise and a propane torch should get the job done. I have used a large screwdriver between the slats on the flash hider or a large set of channel locks if your not worried about scratching the flash hider. When you install the new compensator you will want to use a crush washer and if necessary use a piece of sand paper on a flat surface to adjust the thickness of the washer so the compensator is clocked properly.

I bought a bunch of chokes for mine and IC was the only one i ended up using. If you want to shoot 3gun that ported barrel is going to push you in to Open class. If you want to shoot tactical make some small strips of sheet metal to cover the ports and put the nordic clamp over them. Also use emery cloth or scotchbrite to clean the mag tube where the piston rides and make sure to lube the piston with a carbon blocking lube such as Slip 2k or FireClean. I would also split the two piston rings and scrub them clean as well. I build up a 3gun shottie last year on the same gun, my cousin welded the lifter up and I used a dremel to hog out the loading port. You can send it to Crums and have the same work done for a fee. Other than that you should be GTG, if you have questions shoot me a PM.

Get a local FFL to order one for you, wait times have been very reasonable. Yall complaining that you cant walk in to your local gun shop and get one is laughable. Shops cant keep everythinig we want in stock all the time, its just the nature of doing business.

I use TAC in my 69gr and 55gr loads. Its the cleanest powder I have tried and I have tried several. Varget is one I have not tried but one of the manuals I have recommends it as the most accurate powder for 223. I know lots of guys who would agree, I would recommend either.

The price is way high! You can buy loaded ammo for that price.

Get out and shoot a few events! All of this crap isnt going to do you any good until you learn to game a stage, reload the gun, etc... Shooting IDPA or USPSA is about much more than what bells and whistles your gun has and all of this extra stuff is not going to make a difference in where you place. If you have never shot in competition you need trigger time, not a fancy gun. Spend your money on ammo, compenents, and reloading equipment. Learn what you like/dislike about your current gun and make educated moves from there. Adding a bunch of stuff to your gun right now is not going to make you any better. Its been said here a million times but I will rehash it for you again: "its the indian not the arrow". You could give a $150 Hi-point pistol to a top level shooter and a $3000 open gun to you 99.9 times out of 100 that top tier shooter is going to mop the floor with you its all about trigger time, spending more money is not going to help your cause any right now.

Yep! Thats great advice. Run what ya brung and learn to load the shotgun! Thats the first thing most guys need to focus on in 3gun.

I would want to know the manufacture of most of these components (particularly the barrel). Regardless of the price if they are all crap the gun it not going to satisfy your needs.

Let me ask this: "Why is this important". Your post is an opinion and many people would disagree with you, staking is not essential. Lots of guys dont want staked carrier key screws for reasons that have been covered here on BEnos before. I don't know that I've ever seen anyone advocate specifically "not staking"...including on this forum (post links as I'd be interested is seeing the logic used)...of course many have suggested it isn't essential, and correctly so, but then again, neither is getting your car brakes replaced...maybe you can get away with it for a long time, but eventually, something might go horribly wrong. I've seen the effects of a poorly secured/staked key, and I don't want to see it again. In an area where there is little difference from one brand to another in terms of quality, proper staking can be one of the more important differences between carriers. I dont have the links off the top of my head but if I recall correctly the logic was "if one of the bolts were to break you would never know it as the head would be held in place by the staking, the gun would have a gas leak and would not run" if the bolts arent staked the head can fall out and alert you to the problem.