promod1385

Let me ask this: "Why is this important". Your post is an opinion and many people would disagree with you, staking is not essential. Lots of guys dont want staked carrier key screws for reasons that have been covered here on BEnos before.

What type of front sight base is that? I searched for Lipinski as referenced above and came up with nothing.

I am confused... the BCG's you talk about are all mil spec, most people would consider them to be "name brand mil spec" and thus a cut above average. Bear in mind the prices on AR parts are way out of line right now. BCG's are one of those major components that seem to be most effected by the current post election madness and inflated prices. I have owned three AR's in my life and all of them have had Bravo Company BCG's these are mil spec components construted out of a certain mil spec steel. I am confident that these bolts have been the reason all of my "parts" guns have been very reliable.

Been doing some clicking around on ther interwebs and dug out my tape measure too. Current ACS-L in shortest position: 7 3/4" (at top of stock) PRS - is a mininum of 10 1/4" I dont have an A1 or A2 stock to measure but I found this info online: A1- 10 1/4" A2- 10 3/4" I am going to go with the ACE in the entry size and put the 1/2" pad on it.

I received a PRS as a gift and it seems a bit long for me. I am 5'6" (32-33 sleeve length) and currently run a Magpul ACS-L, I generally run the ACS on the shortest setting or one click out. I am wondering what shooters of similar size are using? I was hoping to use the PRS on my next three gun build but I fear it will be too long for me to comfortably manipulate. I might have to return it to midway and pick up a shorter stock, anyone have a recommendation?

+1 Surely there is a smith here who could facilitate this group buy. I would like some spare parts too!

What distances are you shooting out to? How big are the targets? Most of my local events are under 100yds. I shot one event last year with shots out to 400. Standard 3gun targets (MGM flashers, etc...).

Even if you get the Original you are still going to want anti walk pins. If you call JP they are going to try and sell you an easy kit (that was my experience any way). If you have some skills and the tools I am sure you can do it yourself (lots of good videos from JP on the topic). I know they give a discount on parts if you mess up. Best of luck, let us know how it goes.

Ugh... thats not what I wanted to hear. I have a NM size post in my current gun and like it. I am just looking for a little more edge in low light situations. Why do you feel its harder to shoot? Too big?

Anyone running a Sampson Sightlink? If so what size and how is the sight picture beyond 200yds? http://www.samson-mfg.com/ar-15_html/product/FOS-0XX.html

24.5gr of TAC under a 55gr MG its been a good 200 yd combo for me in both my 16" Dissipator and my 20" Hbar

Yes I have seen a couple of top level MN guys doing this. I believe both Chris W and Jon H from MN have rigged up something similar. I can see how it would speed the draw for a lot of folks with "unusual" body types.

I shot target archery for a number of years and the NFAA Worlds in Las Vegas every year is split in to a "Pro division" and an "Am division" the Am's are set up on a Lewis type system after two days of competition, on day three you are broken up in to flights of 30 based on your previous two days scores. Prizes are awarded by flight. Its a nice system and works well perhaps you could do something similar.

Someone please explain the "Lewis" system. I have only shot one major 3G match so I presume I am still an eligiable amateur.

Will there be a range available the day before the match to verify zeros? If not is there a public rifle range near by that you would recommend? If I make it to this match it will be my first time flying to a match and I want to make sure my rifle is good after the plane ride.

I have done two 80-70 conv's. Both of mine were of the "Schwartz" variety. IDK what type of series 80 is in a Sig1911. I raised the lever from the frame, marked where the frame was flush (sharpie), removed the lever from the frame, ground/filed it flat and reinserted it to be used as a spacer (also drifted out the rear sight to removed the bits from the slide).

Do these have the new McCormick followers? Not that I think they really make a difference (I have both and they both work great). Perhaps calls CMC and see if they will send you some of the new followers. Also did you try any different mag springs?

My 3gun pistol is a Sig 226X5 and my carry gun is a Commander size 1911, both have a manual safety so I guess they are similar in that regard. I started out shooting Singlestack and now primarily shoot USPSA Production with an XD Tactical dont care much for the striker fired guns. I intend to have my XD trigger worked over and see if I can sqeeze a bit more shootability out of it.

I like TJ's: http://www.tjconevera.com/brass.html

I am a double plugger. I like to use the rope type rubber plug, cut the rope in 1/2 and tie a plug to each side of my Leight low profile muffs. I wear the muffs on my head and the plugs in my ears until its my turn to shoot I then put the muffs on as soon as I hear the "make ready" command.

Shillen Heavy varmint in stainless/threaded for a break and later for suppressed use is my plan, I like the prairie dog stock from Stockade (my buddy the body man will be laying down some paint on it for me). I am only left to decide if I want the savage single shot action with the target accutrigger or a regular magazine fed configuration. I am leaning toward the mag set up as this will be primarily a hunting rifle and its a lot less money (more for ammo and reloading gear/components) I was looking at the Redding stuff today and while the bushing style neck sizing dies sound sweet the $34 extra per bushing really drives the price up! I am thinking a set of the Hornady competition dies will be more than enough for me with the addition of a 6.5mm neck sizer. What dies are you using to reform 22-250 brass for 6.5Creedmoor?

I did some clicking around on the interwebs last night. You guys got me all twisted now! I had my heart set on a 308 and now I am trying to decide between a 6.5Creedmor and a 260! 243 is out as I plan on shooting this rifle quite a bit and the 243 is the worst on barrel life. I plan on handloading for the rifle so the availability of factory ammo is really a moot point for me. I was clicking around on the SnipersHide forum last night and it seems the Creedmor maybe just a bit cheaper to reload (.15-20 per/round depending on projectile). Graham - why would you say the 10 is better suited as a target rifle and the 12 as a hunting rifle?

@ DW Fan- How does one go about finding a bare action to buy? I have seen them on gun broker but beyond that what is the best option? I am not trying to spend a fortune, I need to keep the base rifle under $1000 so I didnt think building a gun from scratch as you suggested was an option. @ Redial - I am not overly attached to the 308. It would just make the most sense for me at this time. I have had a .243 and I agree its a great long range caliber. I just dont think it has the knockdown power that a 308 does for Elk hunting (yes we do have elk here in SD and yes I am putting in for tags to hunt them). I dont know anything about the .260 I know its the bees knees for long range shooting but I would have to do some research to see if it will fill my needs from a hunting standpoint.

I moved to MN for my college years and took up shotgun deer hunting. I liquidated all of my bolt guns to fund my pistol habit. Long story short I have moved back to my native land of SD and its times to get some bolt guns going again! I want something in 308 as I already have the dies and brass for this caliber, ammo is easy to get a hold of and it will do all of the hunting I need to do here in SD. I am looking at Savage rifles as I like the accu trigger set up and it will allow me to build a rifle around the trigger as funds allow. I am torn between two guns: Savage Model: 12 FVSS 26" stainless varmint barrel Savage Model: 10 FCP-K 24" blued fluted threaded barrel. I plan on painting it myself and doing a straight out of the mold stockade stock in the P-dog configuration right away and shooting the barrel until its worn out. At that time I will replace the barrel and add an aftermarket trigger if I feel the need. I can save a few bucks by going with the 12 but I will inevitably turn around and spend that money to have it threaded so I can add a brake and a suppressor in the spring (the suppressor is going to be my wedding gift from my fiance). What are the pros and cons of these two guns and which would be a better base to start building a rifle off of?

A chunk of shotshell hull inserted up river of the spring has worked well for me. I can see how a piece of wooden dowel (or cut from a bush) would work just as well.