Clint-M

No, the barrel diameters are different. CM

Loki Weapon Systems, cheaper than most others, available from 12" to 18", and uses mil-spec barrel nut. CM

Yes, stainless steel is rust resistant but rust proof it is not. I'm just looking for advice on how concerned I need to be. My plan was to just keep a good coat of oil on it but I'm now leaning more toward a good thin film of grease since oil by its nature is going to drip off, especially when hot. Great suggestions so far, keep them coming! CM

I had a SS ar-15 barrel blasted recently and I want to make sure I don't start seeing surface rust on it. The guy I had blast it said it would rust right away and got me nervous about it so I want to hear what people with actual experience have to say about preserving the finish, what oils to use, or if I need to paint it to protect it. Thanks in advance, CM

If the SLP has ghost ring sights I'd pick up the JM Pro. CM

The back of my Otto shotshell caddies have Velcro to keep the front of my belt secure and I bought a keeper from Dawson Precision a while back but I never feel the need to use it with the extra Velcro. CM

Surprised this took so long to be answered. Here's a picture from Larue's website that should help you decide. Stag uses mil-spec buffer tubes/receiver extensions, but I'd check just to be safe. Good luck, CM

I would save up more and wait or change my tactics. Buying or building a budget rifle for $600 is just going to be a pain. You're going to see the shortcomings in the rifle pretty quickly and end up losing more money upgrading the parts or not have a functioning, reliable rifle. If you insist on your list being put into the gun as soon as you build it I'd just focus on another aspect of the game and slowly save up the money for your rifle. That is if you're set on what you have in your 'want list' from the start. If I had $1,700 to spend on a rifle I would probably build the rifle first, or have it built if you can't, and upgrade the small parts as I go. For instance: Loki's most basic 3 gun rifle options: $1249 Your scope and mount: $475 Total: $1724 You're started just over budget, but you have enough sans ammo to get used to the rifle and start working on basic skills. From there I would start looking at your want list and putting parts in as I go. First, brake and trigger, then the other parts that won't really improve function as much. Hope that helps some, CM

Cardboard box with a side cut off, or a hole big enough to put light through and see the reading. CM

Search function will turn up with results for the same discussion with Benelli's. CM

Syrac only offers the set screw for pencil thin barrels. CM

Did he remember to press the repeating button? You know, so all shots hit within a half inch of the first one. CM

So long as your put some proper sights on it you should be fine with the 22. With stock sights I shot my 17 and 34 the same, never updated the 17 but with Dawson sights on my 34 I am much more accurate than I was with either before. CM

Looks like a shell casing. The bullet would be farther away by the time the slide has cycled. CM

it is only money. I'm a student with very limited funds at times. "It's only money" doesn't really apply for me most of the time. Especially after paying for a semester of school and books. I'm blessed in that I can keep life simple. I don't smoke, rarely drink (read as never), don't go out, I cook at home, etc. I shoot as much as I can and go to school when I have to . Don't get me wrong, I'm going to take one of these classes as funds and timing allow. I just have to save a little harder than some others but I know it's worth it for me. CM

I rarely contribute a thought that has not been regurgitated from someone more knowledgable than myself but I'll still gladly take credit and welcome you to the boards. Where are you from and what kind of shooting do you do? CM

Cat tail, Shootersconnectionstore.com or 3gunstuff.com...or from Charles Drissel.. All forum sponsors. CM

I really wanted to make the class in OK but couldn't justify it financially after just paying off my summer classes. Anyone teach a class closer to Central, TX? Benny, Kurt, etc? CM

One thing to make sure you look at before buying is what ejector the Glock has. Apparently the problem most of them are having are caused by some ejector issues and if you can get the 30274 ejector, not the 336, you have a better chance of not experiencing the FTE's. I'd also suggest getting the Lone Wolf extractor, those two things are what I attribute my Glock's performance to. CM

I can't leave well enough alone. I am putting together a 16" middy upper with a pencil barrel, Syrac Ordnance adjustable gas block, Samson evolution 15" handguard I had custom anodized green. There are a few local maches that only shoot 100 yards as well as the Pro Series so I'm gonna mess around with shorter and lighter. Pics when finished. I want to see that HG. I'm surprised that the new Seekins brake has not entered the discussion, for a while it seemed like it was the end all be all of brakes and now I don't see anyone mentioning it. CM

Says having a FA bolt carrier is fine in a non-NFA rifle. CM

As a flawless generation 4 owner I'd say gen 4 is the easy answer, but I've heard about a lot of people having trouble with them having FTE's and similar issues so I don't know which way I'd suggest. It seems like a bit of a gamble until the issues have been worked out. CM

Wow, that looks fantastic. Do you have a website? CM

No personal experience but I watched Burkett's Practical Shooting recently and remember him saying to do everything the same but keep your right arm a little straighter to shift the pistol to the left... I'm sure there is more to it but that's all I remember. CM

Entirely possible, I didn't see him remove a lock, but I've never wasted the time to look at a pistol at Academy. I prefer the small shops run by knowledgable and courteous people...even if I have to spend a few more bucks for good CS. CM