dave33

I have a P-09 in .40 and 9mm and they both prefer lighter weight bullets. Best load I have is 5.45 Autocomp under a 124gr Precision Delta JHP. About an inch at 25yds.

^^^^^This is true and very very soft shooting as well. At 5 yds everything should be accurate enough.

A big +1. The stock grip just doesnt work with my sweaty hands, but the sandpaper grip tape locks it in place very nicely. I recommend the PRP grip tape, mine has lasted very well.

Does the 9mm Expert have the same dual recoil spring type setup the .45 Expert does? My Expert in .45 will shoot some incredibly light target loads, I wouldnt think the 9mm version would have any trouble cycling 147gr minor PF ammo. I do get that same slow slide feeling you are talking about but since I dont run mine in any comps Ive never tried shooting it super fast. It is incredibly accurate though. If the 9mm is as accurate as the .45 version I wouldnt mind having one. With the right load and doing my part well my .45 Expert will shoot one ragged, pretty small hole at 25 yds from a rest.

That's a link to my P-09. I would say definitely go for it. I did mine as an experiment and am very pleased with the results. I use it to shoot NRA Action Pistol matches, my current load is mid 130's power factor, will do 1" groups at 25yds, shoots flat as a pancake, and is very soft. With a good grip the dot doesnt leave the glass while shooting. I have shot some major PF rounds while I was developing match ammo and while it wasnt real unpleasant, if I was to shoot major often I think a heavier steel gun would be a better choice. If you ever make it to Wilmington you are welcome to shoot mine.

I have shot all three of their new and improved offerings. The 124gr 9mm performed poorly in my XDM, but in all fairness this gun has never really liked coated or lead bullets in this weight range. The 147gr 9mm however performed as well as or better than any other coated 147gr round I have shot through the same gun. The 180gr .40cal was okay, would order them if they were price competitive but I generally prefer the 165gr bullet weight in that caliber.

Im doing something similar but with a different gun and a different gun game. Put a comp on my CZ P09, and a FF3 and plan to shoot Action pistol and steel challenge. If you can find some, I have had good luck with Autocomp, seems to burn pretty clean and is giving me better accuracy at lower PF than HS6. Im also having very good results with AA#7, but if it isnt loaded to pretty high levels it leaves unburned powder throughout the barrel, but accuracy is superb.

I have not used MG but the most accurate loads I have developed are with PD 124gr JHP, they will hold a 1" group from a rest at 25yds, fired from my CZ P09 with a red dot sight. Ive had good luck with Hornady's HAP, but still not quite as good as PD for whatever reason.

Ive shot lots of them but never recovered any in that state. The ones I have recovered after hitting steel look like this: I dont have any lead build up in my guns that I can tell, but I would think the coating should not strip off like that going down the barrel.

I dont suppose it would work for a polymer framed CZ P09 would it? Its hard making an open class Bianchi gun out of it but Im trying.

If you can find some Accurate #7 put 9 gr under a 100gr RN bullet. That is super soft, makes 135PF, and accurate. I dont think its loud, but I wear ear plugs and muffs, its definitely not loud through that.

I would guess the metering issue holds a lot of folks back rom trying it. That said I use an auto drum also and bet it would do a good job. Why don't you try a jug and let us know.

Definitely use the case feeder for both 9 and 40, it will speed your production way up. I mainly load those two calibers on my Loadmaster and changing between the two is only a 2 min job at most. Going from 9 to 40 only takes removing the bottom nut on the small case feeder and taking it off, 2-3 half turns to loosen the bolt that holds the case slider feed rod and remove it, replace the small case slider with the large case slider and tighten the case slider feed rod back up, then put on the large case feeder and tighten the bottom bolt up. Switch the top turret out, move the powder measure over and you are done. One thing you wont find in the directions for loading .40 on a Loadmaster, the small case slider is too small and the large is just a little too tall, the only way to make it work properly is to use a grinder and bevel a small V shaped channel in the top of the large case slider, once you do it works like a charm. I dont know why everyone has such a hard time priming on the press, its about my favorite part of using it, love the ability to adjust seating depth. If you will simply work the handle slowly and smoothly it will prime just fine. Do yourself a HUGE favor, get one of the new Lee Auto Drum powder measures and toss the pro auto disks. That will give you a measure that does not leak, is super accurate, far more adjustable, and easier to set up. When you set the press up make sure it is as stable as possible. I put a rod going from the bench to the floor under the press since all the pressure is on the down stroke, keeps everything very stable. When you set your dies up do so with a piece of brass in all stations, especially for the powder flair and bullet seating stations, but it will also effect the primer seating depth a little too. Also, the first 3-4 rounds and the last 3-4 rounds off the press will have a slightly shorter OAL since all the stations are not full, it may or may not matter depending on your load. Titan reloading is your best bet for parts as they usually have the best prices, reasonable and fast shipping. I keep on hand a couple extra index flippers, couple primer pin springs, crank slide assembly, and shell plate nut o-ring. I probably have some other extra stuff but thats what comes to mind. If you order from titan I would also highly recommend the new folding primer tray, way easier to use than the round ones. If you keep the press stable, clean and lubed properly it runs great, just dont get into a huge hurry loading and it will serve you well. Work the handle slowly on the downstroke as the wedge bar is pushing the primer into its pocket over the priming pin and it will prime well for you.

^ This. I have shot thousands of Ibejiheads over the years and never waited more than a couple days to get a shipping notice. I may of had to wait a week once on a case of 100gr SWC that I wanted sized to a nonstandard size, but otherwise I have always had excellent service from them. That said, the Blue Bullets are fine quality coated lead projectiles. Couple things I dont like about them though. Their bullet profiles dont work well in my CZ in .40 cal at least, and I dont care for all the blue coating that rubs off on my fingers while reloading them. For these reasons I shoot other coated lead, usually Ibejiheads, but also Acme, Bayou, SNS, there are plenty others as well.

Im definitely looking for soft and flat but in my mind a little flatter may be better than a little softer. Power factor means nothing for what Im doing at this point so if what I need makes a 125PF or a 160PF thats fine. When shooting Bianchi matches you only have a certain amount of time to shoot your string, but they need to be as accurate as possible so I figure shooting flatter will give me more time to be more deliberate with my aim. Super fast splits are not important right now, I want to use the full allotment of time per string to break the most accurate shot I possibly can. If you dont mind sharing I would be interested in some of your loads using faster powder, or at least a general range you are loading in. I have at least 18 different powders on hand, most would be considered on the fast to very fast side so if I can use something I already have, that would be great. Thankfully my local powder store is pretty well stocked so I can definitely get my hands on other stuff as well. Thanks for the advice.

I know HS-6 is pretty popular and maybe autocomp, any others I should be on the lookout for to try out? Thanks for the help.

project poor man open shooter

I just added a 3 port Springer Precision comp to my CZ P09 and am looking for a little advise on getting the most out of the comp. I will be shooting Bianchi Cup/Action pistol matches which only has a 120PF, and steel challenge matches with no power factor so I dont necessarily need major loads, just optimal for my setup. I understand using slower burning powders to make more gas but I figure a 3 port comp is only going to do so much anyway, so not sure on how far to go with it. Would really light bullets with lots of gas work better than medium weight bullets and less gas, given what Im working with? The slowest powder I have on hand is Accurate #7 but have a pretty well stocked store so can get many other powders to work with. Appreciate any insight y'all can provide.

I would recommend shooting it stock for a bit before you spend a ton of money. I have a .40cal P09 that I put a lighter hammer spring in, bent the trigger bar spring down a little bit in, and then shot a ton, and its actually very smooth. Ive thought about getting all the CGW parts but dont know if I could really see that making it shoot better enough to justify the cost.

The best combination I have found over the last several months of trying to find a soft shooting AND accurate load out of my .40 cal CZ P09 was 3.7gr titegroup under a 165 Bayou NLG FP, or 4.3gr N320 under a 170gr Precision swaged lead FP. Both loads are soft and accurate. I tried probably a dozen or more different powders under everything from 140gr to 180gr bullets and settled on the 165gr as the best solution. In my limited CZ experience it seems they like faster moving bullets to get the best accuracy and the 165gr-170gr seemed to be the best of all worlds. If there is a load you are thinking of trying let me know, I may have some data for you.

No. Expect to pay about $43/ea. I have heard rumors of them being sold once in a 3 for $100 sale but have never seen it myself.

With only one case in the press at a time all the torque is on only one point, driving the bullet a little deeper in the case. With a case in all the stations the force is spread out more evenly, thus not seating the bullet quite as deep. I bet if you look close you get a little bit more case flair with only one case in that station and the rest empty vs. having a case in all stations at the same time. Either use a case in every station during setup or toss the first 3-4 rounds and the last 3-4 rounds in the practice bucket, if that amount of difference matters in your loads.

Ordered on the 12th, came in today's mail. Pretty neat little kit. Believe I will give it a try tonight.

I have a fastfire 3 on a springer mount on top of my .40 cal CZ P09 and it has been flawless for many many thousands of rounds, many of those being pretty stout. No problems with the mount or the optic. Don't let that concern slow you down.

I would check your setup, I can load WST all day long and not spill a flake. Mine will run AA#2, which is even finer powder without leaking also. Where are you seeing the grains of powder? Its not powder that has splashed out of a case as you run the press, or possibly some flakes you might of splashed out while checking a powder charge on your scale is it? Thanks for the info. Good to hear this isn't the norm, although not sure why it's happening for me. I can try tightening the screw more I guess, but I think I already had it the right tightness, same way I was doing it for the N320 I was using before. I'm hoping maybe the drum is just breaking in as I used a new drum for the WST. It's definitely leaking, not spilled powder. I see it coming out all along the edge of the drum and it's falling all over the toolhead, shellplate, bullet tray, bench...pretty much everywhere Dont know if this will help or not but its what I would do. Take the drum out and make sure its clean, also make sure the drum housing is clean, including the channel that runs around the outer edge of the drum thats designed to catch stray powder flakes. Also, inspect the drum housing to make sure there are no nicks or damage to the metal. Before you put the drum back in take a marker and make a mark of where both the holes are so you know when your drum is making a full rotation. When you put the drum back in tighten it up so it doesnt make a full rotation, then start slowly loosening it in very small steps until it does. Go slow moving the back screw in very small steps. I believe there is a fine line between being too tight to move enough, and too loose, and when you get there I bet it doesnt leak any powder.