slavex

was just at my buddies work, a high end CNC shop. sitting outside polishing parts was a giant freakin tumbler. I mean huge the bowl had to be 3 ft across and the whole unit sat about 3.5 ft high. Speed control and timer on the unit and everything. no lid, as they don't bother with it (it's long lost I think). I asked how much and his boss told me new they go for around $1200 CDN. I figure a person could easily put 5000 9mm cases in there if not twice that. We are going to try it out in a few weeks if we can, as we both have a few 5 gallon pails of brass sitting around, and I have a ton of corn cob media sitting at the farm. anyone ever seen one of these things before? they litterally use chunks of rocks to debur and polish parts they've machined (not sure what kind of parts, as some would just get wrecked in there).

take your powder measure apart and start all over again with the powder bar. you'll need to reloctite it.

we've been using a micro on a buds TP9 for a couple weeks now, zero issues with it. steel Bzones at 100ys are easy hits, and he's damn fast with it, either as a pistol or carbine. I'd love to mount one on my Desert Eagle just for shits and giggles, but I'll need to make a new mount to do so, or take the front sight off and use the front slot, don't want to do that though. I think it would make a decent Open gun optic, though the small dot might not be so good. Having limited experience with Cmores, but tons with full size Aimpoints (on AR's), I think I can see where you guys are coming from in relation to the dot size. I think the Cmore also has a bit larger of a glass area, giving you a little more leeway in finding the dot. But the thing Micro seems indestructible so far. It's also been mounted on a couple shotguns, AR's, etc. to no ill effect.

I'll call the guys and see what they have. I can't remember if it was straight or curved. They (and their boss) were quite impressed with the setup, and the speed at which it'll operate. Too bad all the scenes it was in ended up on the cutting room floor. Apparently they filmed a great deal of reloading type stuff for the movie.

anyone have any photos of the revisions?

So yesterday I got to setup a newer 1050 for a company that supplies guns and such to the movie/tv industry. The press had been sent to them for the movie Shooter last year (it's scenes were cut unfortunately) and had been sitting unused since. there were 5 powder measures, 4 toolheads, 3 shell holders and 4 case plates for the case feeder. I ended up tearing the press completely apart as the props guys hadn't really put it together right the first time. It had the 45 shell holder, but with 9mm Dillon dies (included I guess) and one RCBS die as well. 9mm cases in the case feeder tube and all the bolts were loose. Kinda funny really, but I guess it looked good for the film. after some .45 dies were found I installed them (RCBS) and got everything tuned up. So now the questions. It seemed that the actual handle stroke is shorter than on my old RL, not having both presses together I am only guessing at this? And how do you slow down the advancing of the shell plate? it seems to really snap around, quickly. A lot faster than my old RL does at least. I tried adjusting the screw that the pawl hits, but that allowed the case plate to overshoot the next position if you came up too quick with the handle. I tried searching for the above but couldn't really find anything to answer the questions.

I'll post a pic when I get home next week. At the Canadian IPSC Nats this week and am staying at a friends to avoid the rush hour drive in the morning. But it's almost emarassing how rough the Dremel job is. My Dremel Foo is weak.

so I finally had it, I broke a ton of primer punches last week due to .22 cases being in my 9mm cases when running the 1050. Never had such a bad run of luck with .22 cases. I guess that's what happens when you have people shooting .22 on your Skills and Drills nights and you just sweep up the brass and take it home. So what did I do? well I attacked my Midway brass separator (you know the thing that you use to get rid of the media after tumbling) and opened up all the slots to about 7mm. Now when I get home with brass and quickly run it through the separator to get rid of all the dust and wood and crap, the .22 cases fall out as well. Did a test run by dumping in a known amount of .22 cases and within 10 revolutions all were in the bottom of the bucket. my Dremeling job looks a bit rough, as I tried a few different bits, but it works and it works great.

I will be buying the complete Wilson/Sinclair setup by the end of the year. as well as a cordless screwdriver to power it. If I could I'd get a Giraurd, but it's too much money. The Sinclair one is just so much more accurate than the RCBS or any of the other ones that hold the case by the rim. It might be a tad slower, but it does a much better job if you are truly trying to get the best accuracy.

God I've pinched my fingers enough times with manual indexing presses, let alone auto indexing. I can only imagine how many people would lose fingers with a totally automated 1050 without a bullet feeder. as mentioned above you'd need all sorts of safeties in place for when bullets don't fall in the case right, primer punches break, etc etc. one would likely have to have a pressure switch so if the press encountered too much resistance the guage would spike and shut down the hydraulics. But why go to all that work when one could just buy a fully automatic press already?

we have something similar happening up here. the first time our explosives guys came up with some ideas, we hammered them with snail mail and emails. you guys have to do the same. this is how they'll take your guns without a fight.

I checked all the rounds that were in the ammo bin when this occured, no high primers or weirdly seated ones. The crack is in the top of the shell plate right around where the case is held, a piece of the shell plate just chipped off. I can't figure out why, unless something dented it somehow. Maybe something got in between the die and the shellplate at the resizing station? But then why would it make a poping noise at the last station when the loaded round was ejected? I am planning on doing a tear down this week when I hit days off, I'll try and take a photo. I should note that while it does function fine most of the time, if there is a hangup at the case feeder it's on this position, something grabs the case funny or something, I guess a small bur as a result of the crack?

I have an old Midway one I love and a newer Dillon one. Using the same media, polish and similar amounts of brass, the Midway does a better job. Sorry to say. I was quite excited to get the Dillon due to it's larger capacity, but it just doesn't polish the same. I now preclean in the Dillon and secondary clean/polish in the Midway one.

Dillon- I'd agree with you if any of those things caused this. No changes have been made to the press (before or after this occurence), and it still functions fine. the "pop" sound when it cracked was on the kicking out of the loaded round. Everything else is fine, no other positions have had this happen to them. So as far as I can tell it's not from the swaging tool or any other tools on the press. Unless that particular spot encountered something I don't know about, I don't understand how it could have broken like it did. I'll keep using it as is I guess.

My 9mm shell plate on my 1050 cracked around one of the case positions recently. I phoned Dillon to replace it and it's almost $100 to get it, including shipping. Now I understand the 1050 doesn't have the lifetime warranty like the other presses, and for wear parts I can understand this, but for something like a crack in a case plate I disagree. Nothing abnormal was done, at least as far as I can tell, as the plate rotated and a loaded round kicked out, I heard a pop, and saw a piece of metal jump. from there I saw looked closer and saw the cracked case position. It still works, but sometimes cases do hang up and have to get a little finger nudge to move them in. anyone got an old used 9mm shell plate they aren't using anymore and want to sell for cheap?

you could always just use a combo seat/crimp die instead of separate ones.

nicely done dude. and yeah your setup is wobbly as all getout eh?

I like the RCBS APS bench mounted. In fact I like everything about their primer strips. A great way to keep track of how many rounds you've loaded, and also to store primers in between loading sessions. you also don't have to worry about tubes blowing up, or single feeding one primer at a time.

So Saturday and Sunday (April 7th and 8th) I shot two matches here in BC. Since I will not be making many matches this year due to work, and unfortunately this includes not shooting our Provincial champs, I decided to really work on stuff from Beyond Fundamentals. WOW, is he ever right on. When I managed to get into a nice relaxed state I shot better than I normally do. I made a point of going slow most of the time, taking it nice and easy and not being stressed out. So while my times were not as quick as I might've done normally, the stages flowed much much better, and my hits were much much higher. One stage in particular I only dropped 2 C's (near targets!) and got my 6 A's at 25m. In fact I won that stage in PD, as my time was good too. Watching that front sight works, as does letting the gun return on it's own. I am looking forward to the next set of matches as I am going to do this again, not try, just let things happen. Thanks again Brian,

I too have left rounds overnight, in the tumbler. 9mm, .40, .45, .308 you name it. never had any problems with pressure, difference in velocity or accuracy. I'm not saying you should leave them that long, but long enough to remove lube is no big deal.

oh when it's empty it has two speeds, but with even just 100 cases in it, it only has one speed. The slow speed won't turn, probably need a new motor or something. This is an old RL1050 afterall. if I start going crazy again, after my attempt at a fix above, I'll contact Dillon and see about getting a new motor.

so I tore the whole thing apart after discovering that I don't really have a slow setting on my collator. even with only 100 cases in it, it barely moves on slow. So I took it apart and stuck washers between the gear box and the collator bin. this makes the plate have less movement up and down as the drive shaft is not so high up. seems to be working pretty good now. Except suddenly I am getting some upside down cases, but not a big deal, I think maybe I need to bend the little knocker tab a little more. It probably got straightened when I took the case plate out.

I've been adding water to my media for awhile now. Works ok for keeping the dust down. I also double tumble my brass. once in the "not so clean" media, and then once in the "cleaner" media. Once the "cleaner" media starts to darken a bit it becomes the "no so clean" media and the other stuff gets tossed. This has helped me get my cases super clean, like new really, and no dust to speak of. I usually tumble 5000-10000 brass in a go (not all at once, but over a week or two).

yup, that won't help me Pete, my problem happens where that piece of nylon doesn't make it to. I am trying the slow setting. I don't remember why I was using the high speed one before. I think maybe the clutch was adjusted wrong when I got it or something and the slow didn't do anything.

hmm hadn't tried slow speed to be honest. Is there a way to shim the motor so that the case feed plate is almost dragging all the way around the hopper? when it reaches the top of it's arc it has a lot of play. oh and the feeder is plumb. thanks for all the help guys!