bountyhunter

France offered to send water filtration equipment, but King george was afraid that the peasants might get uppity if they got used to the taste of Evian.... a revolution would surely follow.

Good luck.

The 9mm/.38S slide stop is different than the .40/.45 slide stop. I believe the "foot" that engages the magazine follower has to be shorter on the .40/.45 so the nose of the round won't engage it. I am not dead sure if Para's slide stop is "1911 standard", because their guide rod in my 1640 definitely is not. I am sure Para could sell you a slide stop. Mr Wedge (Para's parts meister) might give you one, he is very nice about replacing parts.

Bob Hunter of Hunter Customs built mine. He did a very good job on it and I thought for a reasonable price.

Low left hits are almost always caused by yanking the trigger or "milking" (clenching) the grip with the right hand.... or both. I've done it so many times that section of the "pie chart" may be officially re-named in my honor.

You're a pig? My buddy and I use to cruise Lucky's for groceries. If there were any fine women not wearing bras, we would skip aisles as required to time it for a passing view right next to the freezer section. If women knew how completely disgusting we are they would all move to another planet.

I have to admit I am starting to watch the reruns of Fear factor, purely for the oogling quality. They always have smokin' hot babes with gymnast's bodies and they are required to get into microscopic bikinis and get soaking wet as part of every program. The segment where they have to eat something disgusting gives you a chance to clean up the kitchen or get ready for bed.

The explanation is that the barrel throat could be tight out of spec causing the brass to hang and the extractor just "slips" past the rim.Or, it could be a screwed up extractor.

Yes. The temp coefficient of expansion is different and it is possible to get binding when the cylinder gets very hot.

I think your post contains the answer. If you shoot a 1911 better, I'd wager it's because of the trigger. Sifgt radius difference between a standard Glock and the longer one is only a slight difference. A crisp breaking trigger makes most shooters accuracy improve markedly, and Glock's have the mushiest triggers I've ever pulled. Some people can shoot them accurately, but IMO it is more dificult compared to a gun with a sharper trigger.

The "oversize nail" trick works as well. It will never come loose, in fact it takes some doing to get it in. Then you just file the ends off flush. I did that on my Trojan .40 and it has never moved.

If it is like the Bomar clone on my Trojan, you MUST file a groove in the center for the spring to snap into (the internal spring that puts prssure on the elevation screw detent holding pin). That spring locking into the slot in the pin is also what keeps it from walking out. FYI, you can find a nail a couple of thou oversized of the pin and you will definitely not need Loctite. In fact, it has to be tapped in with a punch.

Truly a Freudian slip there, we know what you meant.

Most likely the head of the extractor is getting battered by the barrel when it goes into battery. It may be a shade too long. If not that, maybe the throat is tight and putting excessive loaf on the extractor when it pulls. Please don't say you are shooting steel case ammo....? That is notorious for breaking extractors.

That book is completely wrong. The Army tested them shooting hot +p+ 124gr ammo and found an average MTBF (mean time before failure) of about 30,000 rounds over a very large sample size. That was with the older design locking blocks which were weaker and have now been beefed up. I have 20 - 25K rounds on my 92 with zero part breakage. I don't dispute that the 96 design may be ashade weak for the .40 round, since it is identical to the 92.

I wouldn't ream anything. I took the broken pin and my calipers to Home Depot and found a bright steel finish nail that was about .002" wider diam than the pin. I cut a piece and filed the ends, then filed the "center notch" for the spring to snap into and drove the "nail pin" in and it is dead tight and rock solid. Nails are made of much tougher steel (also softer) but will last forever.

The good thing about being a slave is that you can never be fired.... you have to be sold.

I never understood why they make those pins out of such brittle material. I went to Home Depot with my calipers and found some bright steel finishing nails which were only a couple of thou thicher than the pins and made replacements from that stock (which is much softer). It will NEVER break.

A very wise man once said to me: "Everybody is philosophical about death until they have to look it in the eyeball." My dad was right about that. I always remember that, like when some dufus was telling me how he wouldn't let his family "bum him out" at his father's funeral because "we are all just worm food in the great cosmic scheme of things". Exactly... that's what everybody says right up until they have to look at Death and see their own face. Some dipwad on another forum was waxing philosophical and was saying how he knew all about death because he worked at an old folks home..... I answered: really? Wait until your heart stops and you hit the floor stone dead and (by luck or the grace of God) it gets going again.... then get back to me on what you know about death. Until then, you're just another tourist shooting off your mouth about a place you've never been. everybody will be scared when the time comes. Some people just don't know it yet.

IMHO, it is not a problem unique to STI. I have three .40's and they all had a feed ramp that was too steep. The Para was by far the worst. The "unsupported case" issue with .40 cases blowing out back by the rim forces the barrel maker's hand. If you want to keep the case fully covered, the ramp comes up pretty steep. None of mine would feed correctly until I re-worked the ramps to reduce the steepness and slightly lower the "entry area" which has an angle at the bottom. This results in "uncovering" maybe an added .060" of brass case at the rear where the shallower ramp enters the thraot. GOOD TRADE. Guns feed smoothly, function perfectly, and (as long as you shoot good ammo) will have no problems. I suspect the rework I put on my ramps is basically what Mr Tripp does. Bottom line, you have to reduce the steepness and make sure the area that the nose of the round drives into has some upward angle.... or you will get the previously mentioned "hard jams". In some of mine, it would drive the bullets back into the case past the crimp anywhere from .020 to .050". Not good, but that was reload ammo.

Understand, the hammer and sear only work properly if the boss pins in the frame are "in spec" as to where they are located. If not, they do not engage properly.If the gunsmith installed new parts to fix it and you went home with the same problem: why don't you go back and beat on him? If he doesn't know what he's doing, you need a better gunsmith. BTW: you can almost always get a gun to stop following the hammer if you crank up the sear spring far enough, but it may be masking a real problem. 1911 triggers are nothing to screw around with.

Some guy named Todd Jarrett shoots one. He does pretty well. Pros on LDA: they are a blast to shoot when they work right. Cons on LDA: with respect to complexity of design, they are the space shuttle and the standard 1911 is a paper airplane.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/n...terarchive.aspx Decent article on triggers here. Select the one called "2 1/2 pound trigger pull".

Thanks axray...would you know whats wrong with the sear spring? is it because the sear spring has the wrong tension in respect with the disconnector? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> If this is a true 1911 (I am not sure about Para's internals on their wide bodies): the sear spring has three leafs. One is for the grip safety (right most leaf) and the other two are for the sear, disconnector and trigger return functions. Increasing that pressure (bend the leaf a bit) pushing against the sear will make it less likely to have a hammer follow. That's the left most leaf of the spring. Smiths recommend about equal pressure on the "trigger return" leaf (center leaf) and the "sear pressure" leaf (left leaf). On mine, about ten ounces on each (measured at the trigger) is sufficient and the total trigger pull weight is about 2 pounds. If your pull is less than 2#, you may want to crank up the pressure on those two leafs a bit. If you are wondering why increasing the tension the "trigger" leaf of the spring could affect a hammer follow problem, it's because of something called an inertia trip. As the slide bangs into battery, that jolts the gun forward. The trigger's inertaia tends to keep it stationary, and the net result is a slight rearward force on the disconnector (sear) from the trigger even though your finger did not touch it.

My shooting glasses have a half-moon shaped gouge right in the center of the right lense dead on line with my cornea. A fired brass came back hard enough to take that chunk out of polycarbonate. God knows what it would have done to my eye.