bountyhunter

Biggest "pro" for the 1911/2011 is the trigger. There is no other gun on earth that can give you the sharp breaking 1.5 pound trigger that a 1911 can.

Ditto, he did the same when he saw my post about getting light strikes on S+B ammo and is sending me a new striker spring. Nice to get such good service.

I'm confused... It still compresses the spring as the striker is drawn to the rear. How does cutting coils off a RP spring make it stronger? Do you stretch the spring after cutting to make it longer?

It's new factory Sellier + Belott ammo. The reluctant ones fired OK in a Sig 226 with a very light comp mainspring. I think the Glock spring is just a shade light. Lightening the striker is what also came to my mind: Any experts out there who have done this and know where and what to grind on..... and how much? I'll check it again, but the channel was squeaky clean and the striker tip looked OK.

I put the 2# trigger kit in my G35 and love the lighter trigger. I shot it today shooting new Sellier + Belott ammo which is pretty decent quality. Out of about 40 rounds, I had two light strike misfires. 1) Both had decent looking primer dimples (but did not fire). 2) I reloaded both for a second whack in the Glock, but no bang. 3) I put both in my SIG 226 and they fired on the first try. The SIG has a reduced power mainspring, so the ammo was not what could be considered "stubborn".... at least not too bad. On the G35: 1) the striker channel is very clean. 2) I polished the striker very smooth to get minimum drag. 3) The gun shoots a BIC pen out the bore and about six feet across the room, and seems to have a decent amount of strike force compared to other autos I have. Any Glock tricks to get a little more stricker whack?

There's also a "time" component. If you look at the shock graph from a "G" meter on an auto loader, there is an initial bump (from discharge) and a ramping upward line (recoil spring compressing) followed by the last bump (slide hits frame). The point is, the slide converts the recoil energy into motion (and spring energy in te recoil spring). If that process is spread out over a longer time, the peak energy (thus the felt recoil) will be less than if it is concentrated in a narrower window. A lighter mass slide will accelerate faster, and reach the end sooner so it does tend to make the event shorter in duration.

Actually, people in this thread are simply discussing the relative merits of the trigger safety. I appreciate all advice, sound or otherwise, but the only problem I have seen so far is a few people seem to get very offended if other people put up differing viewpoints. Just my personal opinion...... but, getting called stupid has never made me warm up to somebody else's point of view. Well, what is "right" is where the disconnect comes in. Personally, I did not plan to use the gun for IDPA, so I could not care less about their rules. As to the level of "unsafe" removing the trigger safety would cause? I have a couple of hair-trigger 1911's I would say are a lot more likely to ND than a Glock without it's trigger safety. I set them up that way specifically for a light trigger and they are exactly as required.... but at 2# break with only about 0.1" of trigger travel, they are definitely dangerous if handled carelessly. If you are going to throw me out for having a dangerous guns, I would give no argument on those. The point is, comp guns or guns for sport shooting often are set up "light" and many are far more dangerous than a Glock with a 3# trigger minus it's trigger safety. Which is why, the major over reaction received on the subject seems incongruous. OK

Not sure if this is due to "the change", but: I ordered the 2# kit from Triggerkit.com for my G35 which I recently bought used. I installed the kit in "stages", putting in the striker spring first leaving the other stock parts in. That probably dropped the pull weigh about a pound or more (down to maybe 4 pounds). Mine was pretty heavy when stock, close to 5# measured at the center of the trigger. I installed the new trigger bar and receiver piece and the trigger got heavy and crunchy feeling. Pull went up to about 6#. Stock parts worked well, new parts not. I traced it to the trigger bar 'wings" dragging on the top of the plastice housing block at the "ramp" section. I radiused off the leading edge of the underside of the "wings" to get clearance and that fixed it. I did not remove much or "shorten" the wing's length, just rounded over the underside of the edge. The final trigger pull numbers are about 2# at the bottom tip of the trigger, maybe 2.7# at the center. Much improved over stock. I shot 100 round with no light strikes or problems. Not sure if the "fitting" was necessary due to frame difference? At any rate, a real good result for such a low cost add on.

I don't know about an ND...seems like that is possible in any gun once we are running the stage (in bang mode) with the finger on the trigger. In the Glock... The trigger safety prevents the trigger bar from moving back unless the trigger is pressed. I guess it comes down to the definition of "safety", which I maintain a 1911 thumb safety is a safety because it makes the gun safe against the operator's miscue (ie, pulling the trigger accidentally) while a Glock trigger safety fails to prevent an ND in such a case.... which is by far, the most common reason for an ND. If that trigger safety was added because the internal safety was insufficient to allow it to pass the "drop test"... that kind of tells me the "drop safety" doesn't do it's job and the trigger safety is a crutch for it. In that case, the trigger safety may have some value to prevent an ND in such an extraordinarily unlikely scenario. Perhaps you should take another look at it. If you remove the trigger safety, all you have is spring tension to keep it from firing. I did not remove it, I just don't see it adds much safety. As I said, not having it really doesn't bother me one way or the other. I left it on mine, but I think it's basically a joke.

Excellent point, I assumed a KB was anytime the round exploded in the chamber and blew back.... so, a case separation would be a KB. If nothing was damaged, it's a KB with no collateral damage. From what I've seen, the Glocks with stock barrels usually are damaged significantly. To be fair to Glock, documented KB's firing good quality NEW .40 ammo are about as rare as honest politicians. I believe it is primarily associated with reloads where the cases were weakened with use. No, but I disagree that it is just Glock prejudice: the photos posted show they really blow apart a lot worse than 1911's do, for obvious reasons (steel is stronger than plastic). I also shoot a Para 1640 which has as much "uncovered case area" at the feed ramp as the Glock does, but I suspect my hand will be in less danger if a KB goes off inside that tank.

The patches will always come out black when using JB or a product like it. When using JB you are actually removing metal. Not much, mind you but that is what is making the patches black. Kevin I don't think so. I used J+B paste to polish the plastic lense of a flashlight and it left no fine hazing at all. It is finer than even the finist plastic polish I have, so I guarantee you are not removing bore metal in this lifetime. I work J+B into the bristles of a nylon bore brush and go after it with gusto. Then patches with hoppes or the cleaner of your choice. Look down the bore to see if it's all clean.

For the record, I didn't remove the safety (yet). But, I still can not find any logic in this statement: "Don't give me this "drop safety" crap, as how many of you have heard of a dropped gun going off vs how many have seen and heard of AD's while holstering hot?" If a gun goes off while "holsetring hot", it means some idiot had his finger on the trigger as he holstered it. Exactly how will the Glock trigger safety prevent that ND since (by design) the safety is gone the minute a careless idiot places his finger on the trigger? As for: "When you remove the trigger safety on a Glock you are in essence doing the same thing as removing the thumb safety on a 1911, that has a pinned grip safety." NO, NO, NO.... and NO! The thumb safety on a 1911 (or HI-Power) is a sear blocking safety device. When activated, YOU CAN PULL THE TRIGGER AND THE GUN CAN NOT FIRE! Hence, it is an actual "safety" because it prevents an ND when a careless person does something stupid.... such as holstering the gun with his finger on the trigger. You can not compare that to the Glock trigger safety which is basically useless: if the user gets careless and touches the trigger, the gun will fire. If the trigger snags on something, it will also very likely fire. It is a safety which does not actually make the gun any safer in the types of situations where ND's occur. "Stupid things like "gluing" or removing the trigger safety as some have suggested is just dumb and I don't want to be on the same range as them." OK, if you want to try to defend the position that "no safety should ever be disabled", I guess you can. But the HP magazine disconnect is in the closet of millions of shooters. JMB believed the thumb safety was plenty for the original 1911. And as I have pointed out, the Glock "trigger safety" functions as a safety in every case except those where you actually need it to prevent the gun from firing. I don't have a huge problem with negating a useless safety, and I sure wouldn't bar people from a range for doing it. Especially since the guy in my PPC league just showed up with a very expensive (name brand) 1911 which started "drop firing" every time he slide dropped to load it..... A Glock with out it's "trigger safety" just doesn't put fear in my heart.... For the record: I never made any modifications to reduce pre travel or alter the trigger function or internal safeties. All I did was drop in the kit I got from Triggerkit.com.

I'd have her shoot both. I actually find the 9mm recoil to be more objectionable because it is "snappier", compared to .40. The .40 in my Glock 35 felt pretty tame and I sent about 100 rounds downrange saturday. Recoil is all perception and grip position.

Thanks for the advice, I will try that first. No confusion on that point, since I apparrently have voiced an unpopular opinion here and (so far) nobody has accused me of being an unpatriotic traitor or asked to see my service record. I was just trying to find out if the Glock trigger "safety" was akin to the Browning HI-Power magazine disconnect "safety", which resides in a small plastic bag in the closet of virtually every HP owner I have ever met or heard from. Cylinder and Slide makes the best aftermarket triggers for HP and they are not even machined to accept the parts of the magazine disconnect safety. So, the removal of superfluous safeties is hardly unprecedented, and since the trigger assembly in question for my G35 is an aftermarket setup specifically designed to give a 2.5# trigger pull, "keeping it stock" or "keeping it safe for carry" is not really relevant to my considerations for this particular gun. Thanks for the variety of information. Great minds think alike, that was the plan I had in mind as well.I also planned to smooth and round the trigger face just a bit as I like the feel of rounded triggers better than flat ones.

Does that mean revolvers are illegal? A Glock without the trigger safety is exactly like a revo: the safety is the long trigger pull (and hopefully, the user's brain). My plan was to use Crazy Glue and cement the center portion in the rear position (apply glue, clamp with a hemostat). Then, trim the protruding portion and smooth the trigger face. I figured if I did the "flush fit" trim job and left it "free" it might not disengage reliably. Then you don't spend much time on internet forums. It's a comp gun. The only gun that can defend my life must have .357 stamped on the barrel and a big "SW" on the side plate. I do, but a Glock without a trigger safety (if the word even applies to that thing) still has two more safeties than any of the 12 revolvers I own. For the record, I actually have said the 1911 grip safety was superfluous and I was in the company of JM Browning when I said it. His original design did not have it (he did not believe it necessary) , neither does the HI Power which he considered to be his masterpiece design. The grip sagety was added by customer request. As for: "like if you drop it for example. Having a safety that prevents accidental discharge of the gun when dropped, like I imagine the Glock trigger safety does, yet allows the gun to be fired without manipulation of an external safety (one less thing " The Glock has a firing pin blocking safety to prevent drop discharge, the trigger safety has NOTHING to do with it since a drop discharge is caused by firing pin inertia, not accidental movement of the trigger. The grip safety on a 1911 also does nothing in this case, which is why the Series 80 safety system was added to the 1911. The HI Power also added a firing pin blocking safety (by using the sear lever) for such cases. I still think the trigger "safety" is strictly lawyer proofing.

I have to admit that little blade in the middle of the trigger on my G35 bugs me. It does not drop flush even when pulled, so it bugs my trigger finger. Anybody ever yank it out? It always seemed like the dumbest "safety" ever put on a gun, since it only works as long as you follow proper gun safety and don't touch the trigger. The minute you touch the trigger, the "safety" is history. Anyway, I hate the feel of the sharp edge on my finger and wondered if anybody else had neutered theirs.

Thanks for all the replies. Reloading myself is not an option. I have serious neck and spine problems. When I spend any significant time sitting with my head leaned forward, I get severe upper back pain and numbness across my back and into my hands. Don't get old and DON'T ever fall off a motorcycle. As for Miwall being crappy: Yes and no. I have shot a ton of their .40 FMJ in my Para and Trojan and have had very few problems. The bullets will "set back" past the crimp when slammed into a vertical feedramp from slide drop..... step forward Para 1640 and confess your sins. But in reality, that was a gun problem as the ramp was too flat and not cut properly (I fixed it). Never saw a case bulge noticably even though the Para barrel has about the same unsupported profile as the stock Glock barrel. I shot those "set back" rounds with no noticable difference at all. Thanks again for the opinions.

I am getting a G35 in a few days. It has the stock barrel. Is it "safe" to shoot good quality reloads? I am currently shooting Miwall .40 FMJ reloads by the case and have never had a problem. I have read Glock warns only to shoot new ammo. I have heard it's only a problem in bad reloads with weak brass. Please weigh in on the safety of me shooting Miwall reloads in my G35. I am fond of my right hand and would not like to injure it...... (married 25 years, so it is my primary source of gratification). I realize this KB thing is a hot topic and I'm not looking for a guarantee, just common sense advice based on experience. EDITED TO ASK: What's the worst case scenario for a kaboom? Barrel and slide are toast, mag blows out the bottom, grips off sideways......... what's the chance of hand injury?

Thanks for the info.

Just bought a G35 to try an adventure on the darkside with some combat tupperware. Are there any websites with detailed pictures showing assembly and disassembly? I am planning to install the 2# trigger kit from Triggerkit.com and would like to learn Glock smithing the easy way as opposed to the hard way (swearing and combing the shag rug for parts with a flashlight in my mouth). Thanks.

You can buy a 40 and add and aftermarket "9mm conversion barrel" for about $150 and then you can shoot either caliber just with a barrel swap. Barsto and Firedragon both sell 9mm conversion barrels for many Glock models.

And if it's not heavy enough, I can supply him with some bad gunsmithing.....

Out here in kalifornia, some of us were forced to amass some gunsmithing ability because the lead times of getting work done by smiths around here extends beyond the life span of ordinary mortals. The first thing I had to learn was how to do trigger jobs on my guns. The second thing I learned from reading various posts is to never do a trigger job on anybody else's guns..... because the general consensus among many is that all trigger jobs are alike, you can lighten a trigger by a huge amount and still fire WWII surplus ammo, etc.... And then there was the lady complaining about the "bad" Fiocchi ammo making her gun jam.... the .32 Walther that hadn't been cleaned in five years and had siezed up from the gunk inside it. I think earning a living fixing other people's guns would require patience beyond my supply. The guns are fairly straightforward, but the people..... Me too. I remember blueprinting this like new model 14 SW target masterpiece I bought.... Like new? Like Rosie O'Donnel is like Angelina Jolie. But since it was mine, it had to be perfect ..... I rememeber thinking: "It's a good thing I can't send myself a bill, because I could never afford all the work I did on this stupid gun."

Thanks for all the information. Very enlightening.

It's the beautiful weather! Napa, Sonoma, mendicino and about eight other north bay counties have received a full year's rainfall from two storms a few days apart. The Russian river went about 15 feet above flood level and stayed above flood level for about 5 days. Today is the first time we have had a sunny day in quite a while. I saw somebody sacrificing a virgin to the sun god. You wouldn't believe how tough it is to find a virgin out here.