bountyhunter

That's why I bought the G35 and a 9mm conversion barrel for $150. I can shoot either .40 or 9mm in it by changing only the barrel. I vote for the G35, I'm loving mine. so-so, G35 is pretty sweet out of the box. Bountyhunter, Where did you get the conversion barrel ? Travis F. Mine is EFK Firedragon. I believe Barsto also makes them, but EFK is about $60 cheaper. http://www.efkfiredragon.com/ It's $145 for a standard G-35 9mm conversion barrel. $185 for extended and ported version. All their barrels are polished stainless. I have three of theirs and all have been perfect.

I've gotten about five of these in the last week. here's the latest: Notice the errors in grammar: Another scam to get idenetity information from some third-world jerk wad.

That's why I bought the G35 and a 9mm conversion barrel for $150. I can shoot either .40 or 9mm in it by changing only the barrel. I vote for the G35, I'm loving mine.

I assume a titanium striker would be more brittle and prone to breakage than a steel one. The steel ones may vary on toughness depending upon steel type and if they are hardened or not. That narrow tip is sure a crappy design...... and it sure is an expensive part compared to a 1911 firing pin.

The moving slide forms a "recoil absorber" which spreads out the total recoil energy over time, thereby reducing the peak (maximum) recoil pulse your hand feels. A revo has no moving part so it is just one single THUMP of recoil, while an auto has the initial pulse and a sustained (increasing) pulse as the slide moves against the recoil spring, then a final pulse as the slide hits the frame. Changing to lighter recoil springs in an auto make felt recoil appear less because they allow the slide (which is the recoil absorbing element) to move more easily, at a lower initial recoil force level. The reason long barreled revos have less felt recoil (and less muzzle rise) is that they have more total mass and more mass out at the barrel end to keep the gun in place. The recoil pulse has to overcome the inertia of the gun's mass, so: more mass = less felt recoil. And let the inside of the gun fill up with crap.

Web site address on that?

I put an EFK Firedragon 9mm conversion barrel in my G35 and it shoots more like 1.5" groups at 15 yards. The stock .40 barrel is also quite accurate, I assume most of the error in either case is on my part. I would recommend shooting yours off a rest to verify accuracy before you hit the panic button. If it is as bad as it looks, send it back.

Can also be that the firing pin blocking safety is dragging on the striker a bit. Check the striker nose for any signs of dinging. I believe you will see a copper color area anywhere the hard chrome has been dinged off (that's what mine looked like). If the trigger is releasing the striker a shade too far forward, you can have this problem. Or interference with the motion of the striker in the channel.

Just got this, knew it was fake immediately because I have no account at Wells fargo. I regularly receive the same type of scam mail for e-bay and VISA, neither of which I have accounts for. The goal is to get you to enter user names and passwords so they can get credit cards in your name. BTW, how many corporations would have a moron who can't handle fifth-grade English composing mass-mail text? From above: Should be:"If this link doesn't work, try it after 3 to 5 hours." 1) Used "don't" instead of "doesn't". 2) No comma after the prpositional phrase "If this link doesn't work". 3) Capitalized the word "hours". These morons should hire somebody who made it past fifth grade.

That's the OEM magazine STI ships with their 9mm 1911. Quality is pretty good. It would be nice, but the CMC ten-round .38S mags work in most guns feeding 9mm. I have a total of eight "9 - round" Mecgars to which I added some "+1" followers and springs originally designed for .38S magazines. They do now hold ten rounds, they will feed standard 9mm reliably so long as you don't insert the mag on a closed slide as that will give the famous nosedive into the feedramp. The real problem is the stupid tapered case on the 9mm round which makes the nose tend to drop and makes it virtually impossible to get upward force on the front of the top round when all ten are in.

I'm getting those too. Imagine my surprise when I realize that I HAVE NO E-BAY ACCOUNT! Yes, it's true..... I admit it...... I'm the guy, the one person who does not buy things on e-bay. But my wife more than makes up for it. We have this little dog and she spends all her evenings looking for clothes to put on it..... At least she's not out drinking at bars. Which actually would be cheaper, and she'd probably come home horny, so I would be OK with that. BTW, the dog hates the clothes and runs when she sees my wife coming at her with them.

I hear you on that one, but just for the record: beware of USAA credit cards as well. My wife's was stolen and somebody ran up a ton of charges. We had a hell of a time getting them taken off. The AT+T Mastercard was no sweat, in fact their computer tracking was so slick it shut down the account after only a couple of charges was made (and they removed the charges from her bill no questions asked). If you get reamed by a credit card company, dump them like a hot rock: there are lot's more to choose from. Same thing happened to our home mortgage. It got sold to this shady bunch of crooks named: Meritor Mortgage and they later changed their name to: M-West Mortgage They hasseled us about our insurance company and at one point tried to cheat us out of money for "coverage" they claim they had provided through their subsidiary company that sells insurance. They are a pack of crooks.

This stuff ain't rocket science. A slight rearward bend on the left leg of the sear spring will probably give you what you're trying to accomplish. Try it, test-fire it, adjust it again if need be. //// Remember, you can't learn to do stuff yourself if you don't dig in and try. Being able to perform simple gun work is an extremely valuable commodity to the high-volume shooter. Take a word of advice: if you are going to screw around with the trigger on a series 70 gun, load the magazine with TWO ROUNDS only just in case you have succeeded in finding the formula for full automatic fire. For the record, I "sort of" agree a PROPERLY SET UP trigger and sear can usually be lightened up a bit by manipulating the sear spring. That said, I also know that many a buggered trigger job has been sanitized by cranking up the sear spring return force until the hammer follow or other misbehavior subsided. If this is an "off-the-rack" production gun, I wouldn't trust that the trigger group is properly cut. In fact, I would assume that it wasn't. Just my opinion. Then I'd ask that guy over there..........

I just got an e-mail titled: Notice: Your VISA account has been suspended. Well, I have no account with VISA, so that is not much of a threat. But if you do, you might open it and do what it says: they say they can't "unlock" your account until you go to "their" site and "update" some information. It's a scam to get personal info so they can create fake accounts using your identity.

just remember, that means you are inhaling less lead vapor than the guys laughing at you. That means their collective IQ's will drop faster than the rest of us breath-holders.

Tilting your head is.

Not only light recoil springs, but the "variable rate" springs that get progressively stiffer as they are compressed. They supposedly reduce recoil because they are light coming out of battery, but protect the frame as the spring gets stiffer as it loads up. I bought a G35 with an aftermarket recoil spring assy and I noticed it did not always stay in battery with it. The stock spring works fine so I am staying with it.

For us cheapskates: Is the Ti $80 better? What exactly does it do: allow less striker spring force to be used?

It sounds like you are saying that it is possible to release the striker before the trigger bar has moved far enough to fully lift the firing pin blocking plunger? That sucks. It seems like the plunger shoud be "UP" before the trigger bar can release the striker. Even with the overtravel "relaxed", it would follow it might be possible to get some drag on the firing pin from that plunger with a very slow trigger pull where the striker is released gently? Not good.

Is that a reduced mass striker, or just polished?

From Wolff springs website: They seem to think that stock-heavy recoil springs should be used with extra power striker springs. Conversely, I assume that means light recoil with light striker is OK.

In my G35, that kit dropped the pull weight to about 3# (measured center of trigger). I did something else to get a shorter take-up and sharper break, but I know I am going to get yelled at if I tell you how:I installed the 2# trigger kit and also: 1) Mirror finish the face of the striker foot that engages the trigger bar "hook" 2) Mirror finish the face of the trigger bar hook that engages the striker foot, very slightly radius the top edge so it is not dead sharp. 3) OPTIONAL: I increased (slightly) the strength of the trigger spring (the little one at the end of the trigger bar) and that changed the action slightly. I cut exactly one turn off it and reformed the end loop. When I fire and the slide cycles with the trigger to the rear, as I release the trigger it resets rather crisply but does not go as far forward. The next pull does not have the long mushy take up it does when pulling from all the way forward. If I cycle the slide with my finger off the trigger, the trigger snaps all the way forward to the normal position. Flame suit on..... For the record, I never bought a Glock because I absolutely HATED the trigger feel, but I am liking this one and I am shooting it very well with little practice. Who knows? Try it and see. Personally, I will never go back to a lightened striker spring again, in my Glocks. I may try a test, and see what clipping a few coils will do, but no time soon. There's a much easier way. use a cleaning rod and give the striker spring a tiny stretch. Put the spring on the rod and mark the free length with a Sharpie. Grab the ends and stretch and recheck. Apply enough stretch to increase the free length about 1/4". The light strikes should disappear.

The standard magazine that came with my 9mm Trojan was the Mecgar factory 9mm 1911 mag (standard capacity is 9 rounds, not 8). As for ten rounds: the Chip McCormick ten round mags for .38 super will usually work (they work in mine). Some folks load their 9mm rounds long to the .38S length to make sure they feed right from that magazine. The mag sits a bit high in the Trojan frame and a full magazine will usually feed the first round OK if you drop the slide from OPEN. If you shove a full mag into the gun with the slide closed, the first round may nosedive into the ramp.

Interesting, might try it..... I was more enthusiastic before I found out replacement strikers are about $40. BTW, I ran across a Titanium striker they claim weighs 40% less than the stock one.... a bargain at about $80.

I have been trigger tuning on my G35. It's the easiest gun I have ever seen to take apart and put together. You can take the trigger bar out in about 30 seconds once you have the frame in hand. You need a 1/16" puch to push out the pins (no hammer needed on mine). Push out the pin above the trigger pin. wiggle the slide release lever and push out the trigger pin. Use a screwdriver to lever out the slide "catch block" piece. push out the rear pin that holds the striker assy in and it all lifts out (trigger stays attached to the trigger bar). There's a thread around here somewhere that directed me to the sites with illustrated info. I think Glockmeister.com is one of them.