bountyhunter

Must be a terrorist spy...... no real USPS worker would ever act in uch a suspicious manner!

Here's the latest scam: Here's how you know it's a scam. There's a grammar error indicative of a non-English speaking author: no-reply@citibank.com Dear Citibank Valued Customer, One of our highest priorities is to ensure your privacy and peace of mind by employing some of the most advanced online security measures in the industry. The recent changes in your account gives us reasons to believe that your Citibank account may have been accessed by an unauthorized third party. We are asking you to immediately login, provide requested information to ensure you are the owner of the account, check your account profile to make sure no changes have been made and report any unnoticed password changes, unauthorized withdrawals or deposits. In case you are not enrolled for Citibank Account Online, after verification process click 'Register Now' and you will be redirected to complete the enrollement. Once you are done, you will be able to use your own Login Name and Password to check your Citibank account history. You can also ensure the security of your information by following these steps: Never reveal your Login Name and Password to anyone. Always log off before leaving your computer or accessing other Web sites. Please click Sign on button to start: We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause, and appreciate your assistance in helping us maintaining the integrity of the entire Citibank Account Online system. Please login as soon as possible and please do not reply to this email. This mailbox is not monitored and you will not receive a response.

Well, here's another e-mail scam. I actually do have a Chase credit card, so at least they are not sending me phoney e-mails for cards I don't even own (like VISA). This one shows Asian dialect syntax and the originator needs to hire somebody who is fluent in English: "We honestly ask you"? As opposed to, we lie when we ask you? I'd flunk a fifth grader who couldn't write any better than that.

Because I actually do have an American Express account and I could not be sure from the title that it was fake.

You have to let them in..... IF AND ONLY IF they have a search warrant! An inspection by a city official is like a talk with your girlfriend..... you know it's going to be painful and nothing good will come of it! We had a kitchen remodel done and each time we had to get a signoff the bozo inspector would wander through the house (scuffing up our floors with his work boots) just to make sure he found something to write us up for each time. The last one absolutely made me want to kill him: he wrote us up because the stairs in the back of the house going to the top room didn't have a banister..... which was not even required when that addition was put on 40 years ago!

I couldn't make up anything this stupid...... the sad part is, thousands of people will fall for it:

I got a large box that had ammo and other stuff in it which looked like they had backed a truck over it. One end was all torn up and re-taped. A couple of ammo boxes were open and loose ammo was rattling around in the big box.By my count about 25 rounds were lost somewhere en route.

I'd let him have 20 cents worth of unleaded on his shoes and then casually pull out a cigarette......

Since it was a factory built gun bought from Dawson Precision, documenting "worth" was easy. Replacing it in CA, at any price, will be a bit more difficult. Just what I was thinking. Those guns are now made out of "unobtainium" in this state.......

I bought C+S pins when they first became available and they were crap. They were either cast or MIM, they had "mold line flash" on the sides and two of the three would bind in the FP channel. Two also sat so far forward (hammer in rest position) that the cylinder would not close and I had to fix that. I agree the C+S pin restores the forwrd extension to match the old hammer mounted pin. My gripe was two fold: 1) The quality was so crappy I thought the parts were junk. 2) There was aboslutely no change in ignition energy delivered on my two model 66's or 14. No advantage, just a new part that was junky and had to be fitted. Maybe the new ones are better quality? Doesn't sound like it based on the above post. I believe you'll find that when firing an actual round with a new primer, the end of the FP contacting the primer face will occur well before the hammer gets to the frame. If you do an empty chamber pull, you will see how far the head of the FP protrudes. Although it is a shade less than the old hammer-mounted pins, it is still well into the area which will be occupied by the primer face. Ergo, when shooting real ammo, the primer stops the hammer/pin assembly, not the frame. If you have a firing pin so short that the hammer is on the frame and the pin is NOT that far forward, it's a defective part. YMMV. Don't think so. The SW system has the head of the FP sticking out when the hammer is in the forward most position, well into where it will bo compressing the primer face. In an inertia system (like a Glock) the head of the FP does not stick through the breech face due to pressure from the hammer, it "flies" through by inertia from being hit and promptly goes back into the FP channel. I don't think SW is trying for that here.

(Karl Marx)

The DA sears have to be fitted.

The FP doesn't hit the frame when shooting because the primer stops it well before that. I know because I am cheap and use fired brass as "snap caps" for dry firing. Compare the depth of the primer hole with a round just fired and one you have dry fired a couple of hundred times. The latter will have the hole beaten in considerably farther into the primer face as the FP continues to try to get to full forward extension.... something it can not do when firing a live round because the primer stops it. I think that filing the FP head to a point increases both the probability of ignition and the probability of piercing the primer.

I was told the law requires ammo to be labeled ORM-D. Also, you are legally required to truthfully advise them of the contents. UPS has no problem shipping ammo. I have received about 50,000 rounds of it in the last ten yaers all shipped by UPS.

But, at least you can use it. Patanol gave me the worst migraines of my life. When my allergies are revved up, my eyes produce a green slime so thick you could use it to hang wall paper. Some days they are so swollen when I wake up, my vision is blurred out for hours.

You must have gotten one of the good ones. The end of mine appeared to have been cut using a chain saw.

Brother, down here in "sunny" California, we had 25 days of rain in March and we have had rain every day except one so far this month. The guy on the news now gives rainfall totals for the North bay counties in FEET not inches..... I am not kidding. They have had somewhere between four and six feet of rainfall this year. I've ridden my motorcycle a total of two times in the last four months.

The trigger spring pulls back and up on the trigger bar. As far as trigger pull goes, it works against the striker spring...which means it assists in pulling (making lighter) the trigger back. So, for a lighter trigger, that trigger spring need to be stronger (all other things being equal). Yep, and if you get trigger spring too strong, the trigger doesn't reset all the way because the striker spring isn't strong enough to overcome it and force the trigger all the way forward.

I wonder if it's like the SLIP 2000 orange cleaner they sell for gun cleaning. Tried it, and it wouldn't take off the burned on carbon, just the loose stuff.

When you are young, you have to get your wisdom teeth pulled. Now that I'm old (and have five root canals and nine crowns under my belt), I long for those happy days............ I had to drive my buddy home after his. Prior to it, he was whining about how he knew he'd be able to drive, yadda, yadda, yadda.... So, after the surgery, I still rmember them leading him out of the place staggering and glassy eyed, stumbling along mumbling incoherently. His shirt was buttoned wrong and his jacket only had one arm in a sleeve. They dumped him in my car and he immediately passed out. I had to go to a pharmacy and get his scrip. I just left him in the car and he never knew I was gone. I dumped him on the beanbag chair in my place and went out side and tore down and rebuilt the carburetor on my old Plymouth. I worked outside for three hours and he never knew I was gone. Sure, Chris: I can picture you driving home!

BIC pen: about six feet straight up, but the plastic end gets beaten in pretty fast and you have to add tape layers to it.

Never make the mistake of 'cleaning" dirty glasses by just rubbing them with a cloth... the dirt on the lense grinds scratches into it. As said by others, best practice is to use fast running warm water to rinse off as much crap as possible. Then, a mild soap and light finger pressure followed by rinsing to get them really clean. Once the lenses are free of dirt, wipe clean with a soft cotton cloth (old T shirt is perfect). BTW: if you do get polycarb lenses, scratch coating is a must. That material is softer than regular plastic and scratches easier. It's more resistant to shattering (because it's softer... duh!). I screwed up and forgot to order scratch coat on a pair and that was dumb... already seeing fine lines on the lenses (a whole two weeks old). BTW, one of the best cleaners for glasses (both lenses and frames) is MPRO cleaner. It's basically concentrated soap. When you get that cruddy green junk built up around the frame and nose pieces, just hose the whole glasses with MPRO 7 and then use a soft toothbrush on the frame and rinse the glasses. Works really well.

You may need to remind him the gun you lost wasn't the only one you own.

To get more forward extension on the tip, you want to remove material on the rear most face of the notch in the FP (the one that the retaining pin hits as the FP comes forward). If I recall, it's machined with "flat faces" so you can get more forward extension just by rounding the rear face cut to match the curve of the retaining pin. That spring definitely eats up some striking energy. I am 99.999% sure moving the "rest" position" of the FP slightly closer to the hammer will accomplish nothing. The FP compresses that spring when you install it, the difference in compression distance by moving the rest position back .015" is virtually nothing compared to how far the spring is already compresed and how far it has to be driven to engage the primer. As for penetration depth: I saw no difference in required hammer force between the shorter SW and longer C+S. I think the main factor is energy, not depth since the primer is stopping the motion of the pin anyway, it never reaches it's farthest point of extension as it does when there is no round there. I'm not convinced having the hammer contact the FP head sooner in it's stroke would deliver more energy, I suspect it would deliver less. The collision of the hammer and FP is a highly ELASTIC collision where the two metal pieces transfer energy pretty efficiently. The FP head is compressed and "bounces off" the hammer face. The hammer's velocity is higher nearer the frame, so I suspect maximum energy transfer would occur as close as possible to the frame because energy is proportional to the velocity (squared).

The Sprinco system (like most similar) uses dual springs. The larger main spring is lighter than a stock recoil spring, the second spring that engages later in the slide stroke is stiffer and prevents the slide from reaching the frame. It "reduces" recoil (actually it spreads the recoil energy out which only reduces peak amplitude of recoil) because at firing, the lighter spring allows the slide to "get moving" with less driving energy so the slides motion (which is absorbing recoil energy by storing it in the spring) startes to occur after less of an initial recoil drive backwards. The down side of the weaker spring is this: at a slide positon getting close to battery, there is less spring force to close the slide. On my Beretta 92, I put a sprinco in a gun which had NEVER had a single jam in thousands of rounds and it started to hang sometimes short of battery. On my G35, I bought it with some kind of tungsten guide rod assy (not sure the brand) and when I cycled the slide by hand it would leave the slide about 0.1" short of battery. When firing, it had feed jams and problems I didn't see with the stock spring setup. Bottom line, I read on some internet sites that aftermarket recoil products are notorious for making Glocks jam. If they work in yours, that's good. Didn't work in mine. Check the "wings" on the trigger bar where they go by the plastic trigger housing.