bountyhunter

I'm not really qualified to answer, but I hate to see your question go unanswered. As long as the stop pops up before the lead in to the cylinder notch, I wouldn't fool with it. I'm qualified to answer. The most important thing to check is how far DOWN the cylinder stop goes into the frame as you slowly pull the trigger. It should go a bit below the top edge of the frame slot, but NOT so low that it goes below the lower (inside) edge of the frame slot because then it may hang up there. To reduce the amount that it "descends", you take a bit of metal off the nose of the stop that the trigger pushes against as it starts to pull. Go slow, it doesn't take much. If the stop drops smoothly, lowers to about the right depth, and pops back up...... that's all there is to it. FYI, if you look at the total rotation of the cylinder: I recall, the stop is "out of touch" with the cylinder for about the first 40% of the radial distance between the cylinder cuts that the stop locks into. In other words, it should pop back up and ride the cylinder a bit before the cylinder has turned half way to the next slot. First: the gunsmith's law is always screw around with the cheaper part... which is definitely the stop, not the trigger. You can round the nose of the stop and get it to come back up faster if that's your desire. IMHO, you don't need to. Second: all SW triggers are case hardened and have a brittle surface. I can not imagine bending one without heating it, and heating it would ruin the hardness. I don't recommend bending any part of a trigger or hammer. That's not how they were designed to work. That IS how they were designed to work.

As DD says, the striker spring is the "heart" of the trigger job determining the pull weight. Lightening it to the max requires removing mass from the striker to get most striking energy. Then, the "trigger spring" (which actually helps pull the trigger) is increased as much as possible while still having good trigger return. The striker spring pulls the trigger forward, so reducing it means you get less reset force. Other factors: 1) How far back the striker is pulled before release, which can be adjusted by shaping the trigger bar. Less distance = less pull weight, but may not fully depress the FP blocking safety plunger if you get too short. The "ultimate" trigger job for light weight would optimize all these things and get just enough to get good ignition. I don't doubt 2# is doable.

As a bit of heresy, the spring can actually be removed and replaced without even taking the slide off the gun. You apply thumb pressure on the MS housing and then force the pin out and let it slide off the frame. Lift the grip safety a bit and you can sneak the spring out. You can reassemble in a similar fashion except, normally you have to have the grip safety "up" a bit as the spring is situated into place and the MS housing is slid up just enough to hold the spring from moving. Then, lower the grip safety and slide the MS housing all the way and drive the pin in. As to why anybody would master this skill? To fine tune the spring by bending it to balance the forces on the disconnector and sear, and get the pull weight to a specific value. It takes a lot of spring tweaking and you can spend a lot of time at it if you take half the gun apart each time.... YMMV

My RS trigger breaks at 2# measured at the very tip of the trigger, close to 3# at the middle of the trigger.

I align the sights along the dominat eye sight line with BOTH eyes focused on the target. You get a "split" image of the gun, one off to the right side and one straight down the sights. The sights are in soft focus, unless you change the lense power in the right eye so you can sharpen the sight image and also have a sharp target image in the left eye with eye musles at relaxed (distance) focus.If you actually focus both eyes on the front sight, parallax will give a double image of the target and also a double image of the rear sight. Thanks for the clarification, that's what I have always done naturally, but especially since I started shooting precision air pistol, the constant "sights must be in focus!" made me doubt what seemed correct. H. Yeah, I am frequently reminded that it is the wrong way to shoot. But, I shoot much better with two eyes than the one-eyed squint method looking at the front sight. You definitely have to see the sights, and you must give them total "brain focus" when you align them, but you don't necessarily have to focus your eyes onto the sights to do this. One trick I would recommend to understand "brain focus" when sighting: Focus both eyes on a spot on the wall 50 feet away. maintain "eye muscle focus" on that point. Now, raise your left hand up directly in front of your left eye. Now, yue see the wall clearly and a fuzzy image of the hand at the same time. Just using mind awareness (don't shift eye focus) you can focus in on either the hand or the spot on the wall. As you focus awareness on the hand, it actually seems to become more solid (denser). It's an illusion, of course, because your brain is just becoming more aware of it. When the "ghost" sight image is in your sight line and you are seeing it as well as the sharp target image, you can shift brain focus back to the sights without changing eye focus at all.

The hard part is that I never have anywhere near 8" groups with the others. Looks like I need to sell a Berretta. (This is not a classified ad for the sale of a handgun) Stock Berettas have abominable triggers. You wouldn't believe how much work I have put into mine, and it still is vastly inferior to a 1911. I'd wager trigger control is the culprit. BTW, most Berettas shoot low out of the box because those idiots who make them use the "combat sight" method. If you don't know all about that, it means the guns hit about 3" low at 25 yards when aimed using the normal method of sighting. My Ber 92 also shot about 3" left, and I ended up having adjustable rear sight installed.

I used to dry fire my Beretta a lot and the finger on my left hand that wedged under the trigger guard gradually developed a numb spot on it from pressure. It's cause by pressure on a nerve. It will go away eventually.

I should sticky this as a cautionary tale for the frequent threads on various forums where some genius is advising people to lie to UPS or FedEx about shipping a gun so they can save $20 and not have to ship it second day air...... because if it gets lost, NO REFUND.

I align the sights along the dominat eye sight line with BOTH eyes focused on the target. You get a "split" image of the gun, one off to the right side and one straight down the sights. The sights are in soft focus, unless you change the lense power in the right eye so you can sharpen the sight image and also have a sharp target image in the left eye with eye musles at relaxed (distance) focus.If you actually focus both eyes on the front sight, parallax will give a double image of the target and also a double image of the rear sight.

Okay, you posted that while I was composing the missive above. The perfect place is under the license plate in back like the '59 Impala I learned to drive in. My 63 Ford falcon had it back there.... and they had to put a "bend" (kink) in the filler tube to keep it out of the trunk area. Every time you filled, half the gas went down the car and onto the ground.

Same thing happened to me. The first Browning Hi-Power I bought (still have it) was the biggest turd I ever owned. I posted some of the many things wrong with it a while and some dipstick started calling me a liar and then used me for target practice everytime I made a post. That's probably the single most obnoxious thing on the internet: people who have a "lovesfest" or ""hatefest" for a specific gun type and make it their hobby 24/7 to assault anybody who doesn't agree with their opinion. The funny thing is, the quality and fit is so inconsistent on production guns I would believe it if one guy told me his $600 Springfield was a match-grade jewel and I'd also believe the guy who bought the one sitting next to it in the case who said his wouldn't run.

I wonder how many people realize that the legal limts here in the US for being drunk (.1% a lot of places, .08% minimum) are too high and represent a severely impaired driver. In most countries, .05% is the limit. 0.09% is achieved if an average person chugs three mixed drinks straight down and lets the alcohol "hit" (you get about .03% from a single drink or beer). For most people, that is pretty drunk. In kali, you can be written for "under the influence" if you fail the sobriety tests even if you are not over the .08% legal limit. MANY people will fail without going over .08%.

Me too, but I hate most of all hearing about they deserve sympathy because they have a "dependency" problem and it's hereditary and they aren't responsible.........Anybody who drives a car drunk is responsible. And they do a staggering amount of damage. The CHP compiles stats on it, and I recall that something like 60% of all accidents where a fatality occurs involve at least one operator who was impaired by drugs or alcohol. In Kali, there are some cities with mandatory jail time for the first conviction, which it should be. I guess that's good, but what I've noticed is it means rich people get to plead it down to a lesser charge like reckless driving or something. At least the intent is good.

If you have good trigger function with the stock striker, I'd leave the parts alone. Adjusting the release point is done by shaving a bit of material off the upper curved surface of the trigger bar where it engages the lip of the disconnector. That means the trigger bar doesn't drop as fast as the trigger is pulled, delaying striker release. It only takes a slight adjustment there. You measure how much change occurred by measuring where the trigger is when the striker releases.It's possible that you have the right release point using the stock striker and the RS kit parts. If the striker tip is hitting the safety plunger, you will see dings on the striker and you may get some light strike misfires.

OK, got it. FYI, that blocking safety plunger (button) is made out of the hardest metal I've ever seen. I tried to trim it a bit and wore out three files. One thing I discovered is that you can very easily get a striker release when the trigger has not come back quite far enough to lift the safety plunger completely out of the way. If the striker hits it coming forward, it will beat up the striker. Mine was doing exactly that. I ended up reshaping the end of the trigger bar so it allowed the trigger to go a shade farther back before it released the striker. Another point: the plunger that comes with the RS kit is curved on top and consequently does not rise as fast as the stock one, so it may be a shade low when the striker fires. Bottom line, if you see any "dings" on the striker in the area that mates with the safety plunger, the trigger bar needs to be adjusted.

I think you found the problem. Me thinks a wannabe gunsmith went after that area with a file to get a "smoother pull" and took off too much. hard to imagine titanium "wearing" away that much riding against a steel trigger bar. FYI, I suspect that Ti striker would work fine if somebody "squared up" the front face that you say has wear on it.

And wear your vest.

The striker spring is what forces the trigger bar forward to reset the trigger (against the force of the lower trigger bar spring). It may be that there is some mechanical drag somewhere causing a problem if you need the heavier striker spring to reset.You could remove the lower trigger bar spring and install the trigger parts in the frame only and then move the trigger manually and see if anything is dragging on the frame. Mine was dragging and it caused a heavy trigger pull. I suspect that 2# is the pull weight measured near the trigger's tip. Toward the center of the trigger, mine is more like 3# and I have the same kit tweaked down pretty light.

Just like golf. As you start your downswing, you hear the voice: "Whatever you do, don't:"1) Hook it into the water 2) Push it over the road and you do whatever the last thing was you said not to do. You should never let your mind think any shot is beyond your abilities. Assume you will align and fire and it will go where aimed. Doubt is universally destructive because it fosters "compensating" behavior. If you actually believe it's beyond your abilities, you shouldn't shoot. If you shoot, you need to believe it will go where aimed. I like to make sure the voice is saying: "OK, done this a thousand times. You already know how."Then you don't have to worry about technique, just focus on doing one thing at a time (not how to do that thing, you already know how). 1) AIM. Alignment OK? 2) Sqeeze

I don't know if it was. The base boards under this recent "big rally" look pretty suspicious long term. The spiraling cost of energy is already causing inflation all through various sectors and it now looks like the present price levels for fuel will be permanent. Add the massive deficit spending by the government, and that will soon force a short money situation. And like any commodity, when money gets tight, the cost goes up. The FED will have to raise interest rates to control it. I am old and still remember the "bad old days" of the 70's which saw inflationary recession. That was also triggered by fuel gouging which rippled out inflation through the economy. I don't know if this one is going to be as bad as that one, but when fuel goes up as fast and far as it has, most of the probable near-term scenarios are not good ones. Just my humble opinion. For the record, I'm not one of those who dump their stock the minute the market tanks. I held at the last big crash, and because of that: this old dinosaur's retirement date has been postponed for a number of years.

That makes me feel much better.

when i guage them in the barrel itself their are some bullets that would not go in all the way, only 3/4 of the way, when i seperate them and shoot only the bullets that chambered during guaging, i dont have any problems....... w/c means some of my brass are already too beat up???? the bullets that did not pass the test, a friend of mine tried inserting them in the chamber primer end first, they went in!! w/c means my friend said the problem is not the bulging of the shells/brass at the bottom end (i.e. 6 o'clock part). "when i guage them in the barrel itself their are some bullets that would not go in all the way, only 3/4 of the way, when i seperate them and shoot only the bullets that chambered during guaging, i dont have any problems....... " Match grade barrels are usually made tight to spec for accuracy. Your round diameter may be a shade on the high side. It only takes a couple of thou interference fit to hang it right there.

I noticed when I was polishing that tip that the steel is very soft. Against titanium, the steel is going to lose pretty badly. The Glock striker is also fairly soft steel (really soft compared to Ti). It dings up pretty nasty when it bumps the firing pin safety plunger coming forward. That plunger is harder than kryptonite.

yeah just broke the gun down and went back over that area. the spring appears to be in straight and still occasionally firing as i reset the trigger. maybe its too lite of a firing pin spring. the kit came with one and i have a titanium striker installed. any more help from the public would be greatly appreciated. Sounds like a mechanical fit issue between the trigger bar and the striker "tab". When the trigger is pulled to release the striker, the trigger bar gradually descends because the curved egde is pushed down by the lip on the connector edge, eventually getting low eneough to release the striker tab. When if fires and the slide cycles, it releases the trigger bar and it pops back up. The striker tab is then behind the tip of the trigger bar as the slide comes forward to battery. Then as you release the trigger to let it reset, the trigger bar should stay in front of the tab. The spring load of the striker spring (held behind the trigger bar) is what resets the trigger to the forward position. If your striker is releasing on the forward stroke of the trigger, either: the trigger bar gets to a point where it is too low, letting the tab slip off. OR the tab is too short. OR maybe: The tab is curved allowing the tab to "slip by" the tip of the trigger bar? The fact that changing the striker spring fixed it is interesting. I would think a lighter spring would make it LESS likely to "snap past" the trigger bar lip.

The stock spring for a 5" .40SW 1911 is 18#, a .45 is about #15, and a 9mm is 12#. Not sure about .38 super.