diversmith

What about an IC to go with the LM?

Thanks for all of the info guys...very informative

I am looking to get a .22 pistol for steel challenge and cheap practice for 3 gun. I have a relatively new Brazos 2011 in .40 that I would like to be able to use a conversion on just to keep the exact same feel when using .22 ammo. What is the consensus on these STI/TacSol conversions? Do they run reliably and are they a true simple upper swap? Please offer up any advice/experience that you have on this kit. It looks like they make them for the double stack 2011 pistols. I was originally thinking of a Ruger 22/45 or a RIA complete .22 and then I saw the STI kits Thanks

I've been using the Dueck's for a couple of matches now and I like them a lot. I don't think the extremely short sight radius of the JP's would be better compared to the Duecks. The Duecks seem pretty quick to aquire and I have been pretty quick and accurate so far.

Really. When USPSA went to Time-Plus, several people went to minor. The only match major might help is Iron-Man for those pesky spinners. Only the Heavy/He-Man divisions require major. and then even then not all of them for the pistol. I saw the results for the 2012 Multi gun nationals, and every competitor in every division is listed as having shot Major PF? I'm still pretty new to all this, and no expert by any means. That is the default in the EZWinscore program (required to score USPSA mathces). Since Time-Plus does not recognize PF, not worth it to go change it. For USPSA, Time-Plus, just have to make minor in Tact, Lim and Open. It is okay, ask away. Just realize the answers won't be in concert because everyone has their own bias and there are a lot of matches, most with their own ruleset. Even if there is no "required PF" the round still has a PF Yup...I shot 9mm minor and it had me listed as shooting major. Lotsa guys shooting 9mm and tons of 9 mil brass on the ground. Still saw lotsa .38 and .40 though. I have identical Glock 34 & 35 so I just went with what was cheaper to shoot and the couple extra rounds helped a wee bit on a stage or two. I'm reloading 9 for 105.00 per 1000 so it was a $$$ factor for me to shoot the 9mm

I agree...very smooth running compared to last year. No prop troubles with delays in getting them back up and running, didn't hear about very many reshoots, no chrono to sit around at, and time plus scoring goes soooo much faster. Pete designed some really good stages as well. Can't believe there was only one vendor under the tent though. I really hope it stays in Vegas!

What is the actual part number of the small rifle primers? If they are not the 556M primers, you could be experiencing what others have said to be problematic. 223 & the 223M primers are reported to have issues with H335 but the 556M primers are said to work fine with H335 Let us know which exact primers you are using

Local ace hardware-light wand. about 30 LED's-tins of candlepower for $8. couple wire ties and yer in business. I'm assuming that is a plug-in model and not battery operated?

Just looking to mainly address the temp sensitive thing being that we deal with extreme temps here in Vegas. Being a little cleaner would be an added plus. I have been using TG in my 9mm minor loads and .40 major. I have also heard of guys with STI guns burning out barrels and losing significant velocity and missing power fact. I have a pretty good amount of TG on hand and I plan on using it still in my 9mm and .40 loads for my Glocks only and using something that addresses my 2 main concerns for my STI loads (Glock barrels are much cheaper than a match STI-type barrel is my reasoning). Thanks for all of the input so far

I specifically ruled out 320 in my OP due to the "twice-the-price" issue...don't want to almost double my powder cost!!! So far we have Solo 1000 suggested....any issues with temp sensitivity? What charges are you using for 9 & 40???

Hey all, I am looking to replace Titegroup for use in my Glocks and STI .40 pistols. Have been using Titegroup in 9 & .40 and am looking for the best combo of price, temp sensitivity, soft-shooting-ness, cleanliness and metering. I live in Vegas and we get pretty extreme temp swings (below freezing to 110+). I know 320 is the holy grail but for the volume I am loading on my 650 I want to stay as cheap as possible (it all adds up and I buy in big quantities to max out my savings)! What would you recommend that fits the bill for a 180gr load....I have seen lots of threads with this and that for suggestions but none that exactly spells out how one vs. the other really stacks up in all of my different categories of concern. Price temp sensitivity Soft shooting Cleanliness Metering As far as price goes, I am looking for something that will be in the ballpark of the Titegroup charges (4.8 for major loads) so the cost-per-round stays about the same or less...no powders wanted that require me to bump up over 4.8-5.0 grains and lose any initial savings because a bigger charge is needed. Don't get me wrong...I'm not "unhappy" with TG. It does seem a bit on the dirty side and does show temp swings when I chrony it during different weather....but, I am not really recoil-sensitive and don't really notice much difference in that department. It is priced good and seems to meter well. Thanks for any real-world experience that you can offer me help with and I appreciate your time

But what case gauge are you using? If it is a Dillon gauge you could be fine, but if you were to stick it in an EGW gauge it might not pass. I don't have a Dillon .40 gauge (am using an EGW gauge) but there is a substantial difference between my 9mm gauges by EGW and Dillon. Anything that is too snug in the EGW drops right in and out of the Dillon 9mm gauge. All depends on what you plan on shooting it thru

I always laugh whenever I see a thread on any forum about getting cases stuck with "One-Stuck"...err..I mean one-shot There are always a couple of guys that swear they never got a stuck rifle case using one-shot but there are always loads of people saying they got them multiple times even after following the directions to the T. My brother-in-law (who is a factory Honda mech.) and I both got stuck .223 cases right outa the gate using one shot. I can honestly say we are both pretty damn good at reading comprehension and following directions. Bottom line is this....if you have already bought the one-shot, keep it and use it only for pistol cases...it makes your press really run smooth and eases wear and tear on your arm. Buy some Dillon lube and never look back for rifle cases. That's what I learned along the way

Just wanted to thank Brazos for making my Christmas.......my super awesome wife gave the green light on ordering up an SC model that was to be my Christmas present (I was a very good boy all year!!!). I placed the order with Bob & Ingi and mentioned this to them seeing if it would be ready in time and they said they would do their best to git 'er done. Lo and behold, just days before Santa's arrival, it showed up and my Christmas was made spectacular. The pistol looks and shoots just incredible....it is truly a masterpiece. It is my first custom-type pistol that I have ordered and was not disappointed....WORTH EVERY PENNY!! BRAZOS ROCKS!!!!!!!

Is that the new flared lower that Noveske is doing? I would think the the flared lowers would have no fitment issues.

I have just finished switching my 650 over to .40 and have gotten my case prep toolhead set up and running. I decided to run a separate toolhead for case prep and use the Dillon size die in the #1 station and an EGW U die in station 4. I have the casefeeder so running the brass thru and using a light dusting of One Shot makes it really crank along. I played with the dies until they were just about touching the shellplate with the press loaded with cases. Using an EGW 7 round case gauge, I adjusted until resized cases would fall in and out of the case gauge. They were not reliably fitting until I got both sizing dies adjusted all the way down. This is using Glocked brass for testing purposes. I am shooting both Glocks and a Brazos STI-type .40 so I need the cases sized for use in a tighter chamber. I'll report back once I get the loading toolhead up and running

I'm a local and might I suggest looking into the Red Rock Casino Resort??? Are you looking for strictly price range or looking at the big picture of travel time to and from the range each day and the associated gas money, plus the ease of just driving right down the street each day and not dealing with any strip traffic/delays/headaches/possibly being late??? Red Rock might be a few more bucks per day but you might save in the long run. It is super super close to the range if you didn't know that already (and really nice with good eats). I'm not sure about any motel type places that would be close...you would need to google places like that to see what might be close. Hope this helps you out

I wouldn't waste the money on the factory 3 gun version. Way overpriced for what you get. Buy a stock gun and do everything yourself except for the bolt and lifter...send those off to the usual suspects. Brownells is your friend and they are a great supporter of the shooting sports and the 2nd. It is very easy to add all of the recommended parts.

So what is the deal with the time plus scoring??? Is everyone going with 9mm to have higher capacity? Is PF totally nullified except to make minimum? I am relatively new to USPSA and do not know the ins-n-outs regarding how this will affect what caliber everyone will be using now that the scoring has been changed. Thanks for any insight and advice!

I am using this set-up with a standard carbine weight buffer....zero issues thru several thousand rounds of milspec and commercial ammo. You need to call JP

Speaking of an ugly stock ..........not that looks really matter, but part of what makes it ugly is the "zipper" where you get your cheekweld, it always snags any beard growth you might be sporting, starting at about 2 days worth for me personally. The Magpul stock felt really good at SHOT and I think the street price will be even more reasonable. Plus, the buttpad should be better (more ergonomic and non-slip) than the Vltor YMMV and just my .02 worth

Don't be scared of a 650....if you have some mechanical ability and "mechanical common sense", you'll get it figured out in no time. You will quickly learn the "feedback" you get from the press and how to quickly deal with any issues that might pop up, like upside-down cases from the casefeeder. I am so glad I went right to the 650 from a very short time on a single stage. The casefeeder is a dream!

I'm with you on just buying factory ammo by the case just to have a stockpile on hand, just because. Whatever range pick-ups I get over time I just use to load for lost brass matches. I toss anything that is even remotely questionable in the recycle bucket and I case gauge all my reloads so i know it "passes" and I should not have any issues on the range. All my brass I keep from the factory ammo is kept seperate so I know what is truly once fired and I keep that to reload for my practice ammo.

Jeff does great work and he is a really nice guy...great to do business with. I only have 4 of his triggers

I have to second the kudos to all involved in the set-up, re-set-up and the re-re-set-up. It was a really fun match and great stages. Thanks all!