diversmith

I have Mark Otto's and I really like them with the Tek-loks. Also something to consider is to have a velcro sidesaddle and/or a 2 round belt holder so you can grab a quick single round in case you go to slide-lock. Maybe one of the AP 4x4 to put on the side of your belt so it doesn't dig in in case you have to go prone......all things to think about and dicide what you want and what bases you might need to cover

Very interested to find out what caused the KB in the Glock??????

Your hands?!?!?!?!!??!! They are free and work really good! haha! Seriously, if you are going to give the cases a once over (like you should), why waste money on sorter trays? I pour out my brass on a big towel on my workbench. If doing range pickups, I run a magnet over the pile first, then I pick out the really ugly ones to toss in the recycle bucket, then I just start grabbing them by caliber. I put 5-6 cases on my fingers and look at the headstamp and to see if there are crimped primers, toss the "bad" brands i don't like in the recycle bucket...then i roll them back and forth on my fingers to check for damage and scrap those. What I am left with goes into a bin to be tumbled later. This system seems pretty fast to me and lets me look over each and every case before it gets to my press so I avoid dealing with BS issues while reloading. YMMV Might wanna wear some gloves when doing this. You are absorbing lead into your system. I do...latex gloves are great!

I have been using Lee 9mm dies in my 650 and they have been great....I have passed 6000 rounds now

Your hands?!?!?!?!!??!! They are free and work really good! haha! Seriously, if you are going to give the cases a once over (like you should), why waste money on sorter trays? I pour out my brass on a big towel on my workbench. If doing range pickups, I run a magnet over the pile first, then I pick out the really ugly ones to toss in the recycle bucket, then I just start grabbing them by caliber. I put 5-6 cases on my fingers and look at the headstamp and to see if there are crimped primers, toss the "bad" brands i don't like in the recycle bucket...then i roll them back and forth on my fingers to check for damage and scrap those. What I am left with goes into a bin to be tumbled later. This system seems pretty fast to me and lets me look over each and every case before it gets to my press so I avoid dealing with BS issues while reloading. YMMV

another vote for the Cabelas model. I like the closed top...I also take mine out the back door of the garage and do the empty/fill routine outside in order to keep the dust down inside my garage. I also put fresh, once-used dryer sheets in the batch when separating. This also helps to combat any dust and then I dump them on an old bath-size towel and roll them around....really keeps the brass dust-free. I then put those sheets in the tumbler for the next batch. Repeat as necessary

I've been very happy with all of my Crums lifters. He had a very quick turnaround for me

Short stroking is also very commonly used in the AR world. That's why you load single rounds in a mag when adjusting an adj gas block. To see if it short stroking and won't lock the bolt back

I think it is really easy to determine.....orient the mag so you can read the caliber designation on the top of the follower, then look to the right side of the follower at the generation designation #. You have your answer

I have recently loaded up just over 3500 rounds of 9mm on my 650 using all range pick ups. I save PMC, Fed, R-P, RWS, Speer, Top Brass, CCI, Win...I have had no issues so far with anything and I gauge all my reloads in a EGW block. I have had very few not gauge in the EGW but that have all gauged when I try them in my Dillon gauge. They have run frine thru my factory Glock barrels. I throw all other "off brands" in the scrap bucket to recycle i.e. Geco, S&B, NT marked brass

I recently posted some "findings" on another one of the Glocked brass threads. I have been reloading since the beginning of 2011 and have been cranking on my new 650 that I upgraded to a few months ago. I am about to switch my 650 over to .40 from 9mm and have tried out a few things on my single stage press just to do some experimenting with Glocked .40 brass. When resizing Glocked .40 brass, I tried just using the Dillon size die and the cases would NOT gauge in my EGW gauge. Using the EGW U-die as a follow-up to the Dillon, they WOULD gauge. I don't have a Dillon .40 gauge but I do have both brands in 9mm. My experience with 9mm has been that anything that doesn't quite guage in the EGW block DOES pass in the Dillon gauge and fires fine out of my stock 9mm Glocks. So, I guess the moral of the story here is that if you are shooting a stock Glock barrel you will have a lot of leeway. If you are shooting a KKM barrel or an STI (etc.) type pistol, you better live by the EGW gauge and should be using a U-die to nip the problem in the bud. I am in the process of setting up separate toolheads to reload .40 on my 650. One a caseprep toolhead with the Dillon sizer in station 1 and the U-die in station 4. My loading toolhead will have a universal decapper in station one to clear the flash hole (I will be using case lube and will polish after sizing in corncob to remove lube) and then the "normal" sequence of dies after that. Yes, I will be running brass thru twice, but with a casefeeder on a 650 I don't see it as being a big deal if my ammo runs perfect YMMV

I concur....I have one on my JP 18" rifle and it feels great

Hello all...I am on the fence about just going all in and getting a 1050 to go next to my 650. I am looking for a little input from actual users. I am thinking of getting the 1050 just to load 223 on and keep my 650 to load 9 and 40 in large batches to keep the switchovers to a minimum. I bought all of the 223 accessories for my 650 and the 600 swager, but I will just list them for sale here if I get the 1050 and put the money towards the 1050. My questions are as follows: 1. Can you run the 1200 trimmer on the 1050 and be able to just dump cleaned brass into the casefeeder and have all aspects of caseprep done and have finished rounds pop out in one pass? Is there enough room on the toolhead to have all the dies and the trimmer too? 2. With the primer swager on the 1050, what happens when you run commercial brass thru it with no primer crimp? Does it just leave it unaffected? I am really thinking of doing the 1050 to save time and handle brass as little as possible. Being married with a baby, I actually have more money than time and am looking to maximize my time reloading. And yes, I shoot a pretty good volume per year to justify all the reloading gear so it will pay for itself. Thanks for any help and insight you can offer

Sorry bud...I think you misunderstood...I was talking about marking the brass itself so it is easily identified amongst other brass that was not yours. Easy to know it's yours and helps you keep batches separate when you are keeping track of # of firings.

I just did a little experimenting in the garage today with my Dillon resizing die and the EGW Udie on glocked and non-glocked cases. I had some range pickups that I ran thru the dillon first and the glocked ones would not case gauge in my EGW 7 round block. Non-glocked cases dropped in and out freely. The glocked cases that wouldn't gauge were then run thru the EGW Udie and they then gauged and dropped out freely. I do not have a Dillon .40 single case gauge so I do not know if the cases sized thru the Dillon die only would pass in the Dillon gauge. I know the 9mm EGW gauge runs a little tighter than the Dillon 9mm gauge. My 9mm ammo that is just shy of gauging in the EGW drops in and out freely in the Dillon 9mm gauge. Those same rounds drop in and out of my Glock 9mm barrels and have fired perfect so far. I am getting my new Brazos .40 pistol in a few weeks so we will see how the .40 ammo does in the chamber of the Brazos. I will load some dummy rounds once I switch over my 650 to .40 and try it both ways and see if the Dillon sized ammo fits the tighter chamber of the Brazos gun or if they will have to be run thru the Udie. I have to say, the brass that is run thru the Udie really seems to have a bit of a "waist" appearance...I wonder if that is going to be hard on the brass long term???

Just recently got up and running with my 650 and am wondering if all you reloaders use magic markers/sharpies to mark your reloaded ammo. I got the idea after picking up some range brass and it always seems to be marked on the case head in the color of choice. Any other clever ideas for marking your ammo? I thought instead of using a common color i.e. black/blue, I would use a bright red or light green sharpie. Any other suggestions? I figure the litle time spent might be worth it in the long run making things easier to sort after trips to the range Thanks for any tips/advice

This is the same thing I gathered when making my decision between the two....more people said get the 650 because of the casefeeder and auto index if you really want higher volume. You will realize you want it down the road. As a pretty new reloader, I started on single stage to "learn the ropes" and start slow. I soon realized single stage was painstakingly slow for the volume I shoot and I had to decide on the 550 or 650. I went 650 just for the casefeeder mainly. If doing any decent type of volume, the casefeeder is priceless to me. Especially so when you reload 5.56/223 and you want/need to do separate case prep. Pour cases and get to rockin!!! The only thing I really need to focus intently on is looking in the case before I set a bullet just to have a for sure powder check. YMMV

How much did you spend on the light? I have to wait until Monday to get a quote back from them Got the quote back...YIKES!!!! 62 bucks plus shipping! No thanks...I will just stick with my cheapo led flashlight until I find something else

How much did you spend on the light? I have to wait until Monday to get a quote back from them

Looking for any others that use or have used this holster...thanks

Just to clarify, I'm looking to fit hi-cap sti .40s into the bladetech glock 9/40 mag pouches....anybody know for sure? Thanks

I am going to be getting my Brazos SC delivered next month and am wondering if the STI mags will work in the BladeTech Glock mag holders since I already have those. Has anyone tried this? I would love to not have to purchase another set just for the STI mags if I could get by with just adjusting the tension screws. Thanks for any advice you can offer

I just asked this over in the Glock forum because I am debating one for my new 24 & 17L. It looks to be a little more secure than a full-on race holster but faster to get out of the holster for the longer slide Glocks. I am looking to hear from people that have used the Speed Rig before I drop coin

I have recently picked up both the 17L and 24 to shoot outlaw & USPSA limited and need to get a new holster that will hold them. It looks like they would be more secure than a race holster but faster then the stingray, especially with the longer slides on these 2 pistols. Anyone using this holster and if so, how do you like it? I have been very happy with all of my other Bladetech gear so I am figuring the speed rig should be good to go. Thanks for any insight

This is my experience as well with the Arredondos... I have at least 10 set up like that