lee blackman

I went with Netflix a couple years ago and never looked back. The hard part was realizing I actually got to choose what I wanted to see. Seriously it was weird having that kinda freedom. The TV all of at the sudden wasn't just background noise... $8 a month as opposed to the $150 I was spending before. So now I have more money to spend on gun stuff

I'd like to see something comparable to the Walther PPS and S&W Shield size/width, in both 9mm an 40sw models.

Start with a 170, finish with a 170, a spare 170 just in case.... I like consistency. I practice my reloads with a 170, so every time its the same. And 170's give you options, if you have to do a reload on the course. Maybe you wanna drop it during movement between arrays early, maybe late in the course. Just keep it simple, and the same, 170 to 170 from 170. If I were going to use 140+ size instead of 170, I would do it exactly the same. Just use only 140's, stick with 140's.

What do you like in a trigger? They are a lot of great triggers, but they are all apples to oranges. No one is necessarily better than the other. Hyperfire is probably the lightest, with shortest reset and overtravel, but maintaining fasted lock time, and has a solid robust design. Its single stage. You can get a straight or curved trigger (pending what you like, and if you ride the bottom, or are a straight puller). It has what I call a "dead" reset, so its not a trigger you ride the reset up on, but rather let your finger lift to reset and press again. Geissele has a whole lot of options. The key thing with their triggers is you don't really hear about them breaking. They are solid, robust, and high quality. They offer flat or curved triggers. You can get a high speed hammer. One or two stage. Their S3G trigger isn't adjustable, but is easy to drop in and run like a CMC or cassette trigger, yet is more robust. It has a very positive reset, you can ride forward, much like a Glock trigger. They are easy to bump fire with because of it. Geissele also offers an excellent 2-stage trigger, called the Super Tricon trigger with a flat trigger shoe. I don't like 2-stage for 3-gun, even those long shots, but its the only 2-stage trigger I would consider if I were to use one. They offer other two stage competition triggers with high speed hammers, that are better two stage trigger for precision rifle competitions. If you want a two stage trigger, geissele is your best choice. If you want a positive resetting single stage trigger, again your best choice. They really have a lot of options. CMC triggers are easy, fast, everything is set, and you don't have to worry if there is a slight tolerance difference in your lower's pin alignment. Every pull is just as consistent as the last. Its a good trigger, and I have one, but IMHO, it just doesn't compare to the hyperfire. I don't own, and haven't used an AR Gold, so I'm leaving comments to others. Same with Timney or Wilson. I have felt them in others peoples guns, and they are comparable to each other in different aspects. Eventually someone will also mention JP. JP is a great trigger, but only if you have someone who knows what they are doing install it. I have a JP in my JP from JP. Its kinda like an adjustable trigger with a similar feel to the S3G, with less positive reset, but more than the hyper touch. Its very smooth though. There is not crisp "jerk" in the crisp break to pull your shot. RRA makes a "decent" two stage, but its nothing to write home about. Its made for service rifle competition, so its over 4.5lbs overall. Its not worth the money, and doesn't even come close to a geissele two stage. Bushmaster actually has one of the best adjustable 2 stage triggers I've ever felt. It comes in their DCM rifle. The first stage takes up 4 pounds of the pull weight, and the last stage breaks the remaining half pound. I think with a reduced power spring kit, this would actually make an awesome trigger. Comparable with the geissele, but with a different stage weight ratio. More first and less second.

Wow, looks just like when I forget I put brass in the old tumbler, three days later....

JP is by far a cut above the rest. Its a whole different gun. Like not an AR-10, but something better. Its more than just accurate. Its everything else too. That said, GA Precision is a precision rifle... LaRue is a precise hitting battle rifle... I think putting any three of them in the hands of a good shooter, and you'd get spectacular results. Oh yea, nobody mentioned Hogan... they make a fine rifle. I believe they make the action for the GAP-10. If I'm not mistaken they used to make the action for POF, before POF bought their own equipment to make themselves. I wouldn't put them on level with the top three, but they are for sure a cut above the rest.

I'm not a fan of adding another division. We have a division for optics... called open.

My bet would be that your getting used to the trigger. I'd also be willing to bet, if you sent it off, had a trigger job done on it, around 2 pounds, as soon as you got it back, your groups would be even tighter.

Yea, thats what it is: http://world.guns.ru/assault/it/beretta-ar-70223-and-ar-7090-e.html

I think its an old Beretta AR-70 actually. You can see the lower is make of pressed sheet metal, not a forging.

I was looking at the PR 1 and PR 2 classes. It will be a while of saving money before I could take anymore. Wow, thanks for the responses guys, and good advise

Has anyone taken the Precision Rifle classes at the NRA Whittington center in New Mexico? I'm just curious as to what one would bring rifle wise, as to not be left wanting. I'm reading 400-800 yards, then 800-1200 yards. Known and unknown distance targets. Shooting from elevated positions, and using various methods of support. And it mentions shooting off a back pack, or bringing a back pack, and being in good enough physical condition to hike. So I'm assuming one would have to lug their rifle, ammo, and other stuff around all day. Starting from scratch where do you go?

Which STI did you get? Getting a new gun always involves a learning curve. Different trigger, manual safety, different grip angle, all these things can make a difference.

T2 = -5 points (2.5 seconds) for the miss + an FTN (5 seconds) + down 3 (1.5 sec) for a total of 9.0 7.5 seconds. Ooops thanks for the correction, I totally forgot about the minus three, even though I just typed it. I think I need to stop posting so late, lolz.

How would you score the following two targets? (Not Limited Vickers) T1 = One -0 Hit and One Miss T2 = One -3 Hit and One Miss How I read the rules, scoring is as follows: T1 = -5 points (2.5 seconds) for the miss T2 = -5 points (2.5 seconds) for the miss + an FTN (5 seconds) for a total of 7.5 seconds.

I always bitch at the managers when I come across crap like that... It angers me more than the smell of patchouli and a bama '08 sticker on the back of a prius.

Hey I didn't notice this before. Now I know camera angles and focal lengths can kinda distort things in a picture, but from what I'm seeing the nose of the snap cap is already clear of the ramp. So the ramp isn't whats stopping the bullet. Now I can't see the back of the case from the picture but it doesn't look like the rim of the case head is moving up the breech face. If this is the actual picture of the issue, and resolving it actually requires forward pressure on the slide, then the issue is not with the magazine or feed ramp. If you can apply forward pressure and it moves into place, its clear to move in. If it was being blocked by the feed ramp, you wouldn't be able to hit the back of the slide to make it feed. The jam pictured is an over tight extractor. The rim cannot get under the extractor, and is being held down seizing the slide from moving forward.

WST for Lead or Plated 200gr SWC's Clays for Berry's 185 RN HB's VV N320 for 185 MG JHP's I'm curious to try Solo 1000, maybe one day, when its available again

Mic out your powder depth, subtract that value from the OAL of the bullet, then add that number to your case length. That will give you a good idea of your minimum before you start compressing the powder. I run 7.4gr Autocomp, which leaves me roughly .21" of room on top of the powder. I've load 124gr MG JHP's at 1.120" without problems. I don't know about true blue though.

Up = right, down = left, then right = down and left = up... I think i typed that right.

I'm using 1.125" with 124gr MG JHP's with 7.4gr Autocomp in STI mags with spacer and SVI mags. Running the same load thru both my IMM Open and my Steelmaster.

Running major pf thru a steel master is brutal... I've dropped the gun too... yet to loose zero thus far. Loosing zero doesn't have anything to do with the mount. I saw two shooters loose zero at the river city shooters summer shootout, and both had traditional mounts. That just happens for various reason. I chose the setback because the Steelmaster is short, and I wanted to get the lens as far away from the comp as I could. It works fine. I'm assuming the regular non-setback would be fine on a trubor or something with a 5" barrel and comp.

I put a 90 degree Cheely setback on my Steelmaster, along with a DAA thumb rest. Its probably the best thing I ever did. I'm wanting to put on on my IMM Open now too. Advantages: -It improves reliability... no more of those occasional cases bouncing back into the ejection port. -It put the dot lower to the barrel axis. I like how your not looking over the gun as high, which has been great for me. Cause I also shoot IDPA and carry with iron sighted guns. I also find with shooting over low walls, or thru weird ports, or over those wonderful blue plastic barrels that your bullets like to bounce off of, its easier to deal with. -It cured my issue where powder blast was hitting the top 1/3rd of my lens, no NO powder residue gets on the lens... -Its way easier to get under your gun on barrel and table starts... -Myths busted....I don't feel any difference in "balance." I was told by several people (non who ever shot with one, ironically) that it would block my view left of the gun. That turned out to be untrue. Actually I don't see the mount or the sight body itself at all. All I see when I press out are targets and a dot. Disadvantages: -Its not "traditional" so people look at you funny and say things behind your back..... not really, that was actually a joke. -It may have issues on guns with popples close to the optic, but I don't have any way to test that. -It may or may not work with your slide racker... so you might have to move it to the right side of your gun.

Salient and Vanek are the only two I go with, if I don't do the trigger myself. Salient by far has the best trigger I've ever felt in a Glock. I like Vaneks master GSSF for anything I carry, because they are 100% reliable, and all the polish and tune work (manual labor) is already done. The Salient trigger gets light primer strikes on hard primers, so your stuck loading with federals. There are ton's of aftermarket triggers out there. There is also ton's of information on BE forums about the various ones. The same question gets asked probably monthly by someone new. I'd recommend doing a search. Not that much has changed in the way of Glock triggers, so even information thats a couple years old on here is pretty good.