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It must be the Major velocity/pressure. I have been shooting lead in compensated 9x21 and .38 Supers for several decades and never had any lead in the compensator. Over the last 5 years, I have shoot several thousand Precision "Black Bullets" at max load in my .38 Supers, still with no leading. Like most things in life, YMMV.

I like the consistency and accuracy of the swaged Precision "Black Bullets." However, for the money, I would stay with Precision Delta or Montana Gold.

I know this will be a shock to many but: 1) There are other presses besides Dillon 2) Dillons are not best for all Personally, except for my 1050s, my favorite press is the Hornady L-N-L. For a beginner, I would start with a much smaller investment and recommend a Lee Challenger single-stage or the Lee Classic Turret. For me, with the Hornady I never needed or wanted a case feeder. With the 650, you really must have a case feeder. Heck, from my time of a 550 (which I really did not like), I would need a case feeder on it also. A beginner does not NEED a $576 press and a $255 case feeder (not to mention any additional caliber conversion kits for $78. Even for an experienced reloader, that is a lot of money compared to the Hornady. Buy a couple of manuals and determine for yourself what you need and want.

Sounds like a Lee Pro 1000 is what you "need." Personally, I would have gotten a Super 1050 and been done with it.

Since I don't hear other people complaining, it can't be a design problem. It could be a bad shell plate, but the design of the Hornady is excellent. I found that whenever I call Hornady about any problem, they are more than happy to walk me through and send me parts that might be bad/broken. I am able to use old RCBS carbide sizing dies (that have almost NO chamfer) with no more than an occasional pushing on the case with a finger. Any of the modern sizing dies work great. Are you making this up and have you gone through Hornady yet? At the least, the should be willing to send out a new shell plate, though they might ask you to send the old one in before or after receipt of new shell plate.

History lesson: The hard alloy that Keith used for the .44 Magnum was about 12 BHN. Isn't if strange that we now need much harder alloys do the same job?

When you order the cast bullets, request 0.402" or larger. Somebody must have had this problem before. At least you slugged your barrel and didn't just blame the lead bullets. I have taken lead bullets that are groove diameter and given them a tumble lube or two in Lee Liquid Alox and successfully used the bullets. You might want to try that or Rooster Jacket or Recluse's 45/45/10.

I wouldn't call a 0.003" a semi-rim, I would call it a tapered case that continues the taper to the rim Got the 9mm MAK FCD. 9x19 cases go through it just fine, with the same difficulty as .40 S&W and .45 ACP. Looks like it works.

WST is popular, but none of my guns, whether 9x19, .38 Super, .40S&W, .38 Special, or .45 ACP have shot well with it. IF, and I mean IF, I wanted to use a fast powder with a 180gn bullet for specific action pistol events, I would look at AA2. Very well behaved, meters well, and shoots very small groups at target to mid-range velocity. If I wanted a powder for general use, I find AA5 is almost universally accurate in cartridges with a peak pressure in the 25-40ksi range. Another very good general use powder is WSF. If you want to get the most out of your gun with great accuracy, Silhouette seems to work very well in .38 Super and .40S&W. All of these powders meter very well. Power Pistol has not been consistently accurate and, at least the 1# I have, it clings to the powder measure and powder pan and clumps up in my measures. Based on others reactions, I "believe" that my 1# can may be unique. I can't believe how AA2, AA5, and AA7 seem to be ignored, yet they keep being among the very best powders, in terms of accuracy and performance, I have found--outside of Silhouette.

I usually shoot over 2k rounds of 200gn L-SWC and 6.0gn of Unique without the gun choking or needing any cleaning. Most of my 1911s are custom and tight. I find AA2 to be a lot more accurate. From my experience, each gun is different and my major load could be a minor load for you. Here is some of my compiled data and you will see that PF varies more by gun/barrel than by just charge weight. Bullet Weight Powder Weight Velocity Notes Power Factor COL Bull-X L-SWC 200 231/HP38 4.2 748 Target 150 Bull-X L-SWC 200 231/HP38 4.2 748 150 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 4.4 771 Start 154 1.225 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 4.4 798 50 yd 160 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 4.4 718 25 yd 144 Cast L-SWC 200 231/HP38 4.5 808 Start/Accurate 162 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 4.5 808 Start 162 Cast L-SWC 200 231/HP38 4.5 719 Start 144 Hdy lead C/T 200 231/HP38 4.6 760 V. Acc. 152 swaged L-SWC 200 231/HP38 4.6 739 Start/Accurate 148 1.185 Case L-SWC 200 231/HP38 4.6 Basic Bullseye/Practice 0 Hdy lead C/T 200 231/HP38 4.6 760 152 Hdy lead C/T 200 231/HP38 4.6 745 149 Hdy lead C/T 200 231/HP38 4.6 714 143 1.202 Lead 200 231/HP38 4.8 804 Start 161 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 4.8 800 Start 160 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 4.8 796 Start 159 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 4.8 796 50 yd 159 swaged L-SWC 200 231/HP38 4.8 650 4.8-5.3gn 130 Carroll L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.0 787 V. Acc. 157 Cast L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.0 892 Max 178 Cast L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.0 811 Max 162 swaged L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.0 803 Max 161 1.185 RCBS 45-201-KT SWC 200 231/HP38 5.0 810 162 1.240 Lyman 452460 200 231/HP38 5.0 805 161 1.161 RCBS #45-201K L-SWC 201 231/HP38 5.0 800 161 LS L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.0 797 159 1.240 Hdy lead C/T 200 231/HP38 5.0 766 153 1.202 Montana LBT-RFN 200 231/HP38 5.0 739 148 1.241 Hdy L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.0 714 143 1.225 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.1 Target 0 1.224 L-SWC, L-C/T 200 231/HP38 5.2 800 Start 160 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.2 739 Start 148 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.2 850 Max/Favorite 170 1.250 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.3 Target-Accurate 0 Hdy L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.3 Accurate 0 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.3 Accurate 0 Hdy L-SWC, L-C/T 200 231/HP38 5.4 800 Start 160 1.200–1.225 Hdy L-SWC, L-C/T 200 231/HP38 5.4 800 Start 160 1.200–1.225 Lyman 452630 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.4 769 Start 154 1.235 Lyman #452630 200 231/HP38 5.4 769 Start 154 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.4 Favorite 0 Hdy lead C/T 200 231/HP38 5.4 857 171 Hdy lead C/T 200 231/HP38 5.4 821 164 1.202 Hdy lead C/T 200 231/HP38 5.4 814 163 L-SWC, L-RN 200 231/HP38 5.5 910 Max 182 Bull-X L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.5 865 Acc 173 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.5 908 182 RCBS 45-201-KT SWC 200 231/HP38 5.5 880 176 1.240 LS L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.5 865 173 1.240 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.5 850 170 Carroll L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.5 850 170 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.5 841 168 1.263 Bull-X L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.5 840 168 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.6 920 Max 184 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.6 914 Max 183 1.225 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.6 854 171 L-SWC 195 231/HP38 5.7 962 Max 188 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.7 918 184 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.8 914 Max 183 Carroll L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.8 838 168 Bull-X L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.9 899 USPSA/IPSC 180 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.9 920 184 1.250 Bull-X L-SWC 200 231/HP38 5.9 899 180 Bull-X L-SWC 200 231/HP38 6.0 902 USPSA/IPSC 180 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 6.0 987 Max 197 Lyman 452460 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 6.0 987 Max 197 1.161 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 6.0 850 Hardball load 170 1.160 Lyman #452460 200 231/HP38 6.0 987 Acc 197 RCBS #45-201K L-SWC 201 231/HP38 6.0 955 192 LS L-SWC 200 231/HP38 6.0 945 189 1.240 Bull-X L-SWC 200 231/HP38 6.0 902 180 Hdy L-SWC 200 231/HP38 6.0 880 176 1.225 Lyman 452630 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 6.1 885 Max 177 1.235 Lyman #452630 200 231/HP38 6.1 885 Max 177 swaged L-SWC 200 231/HP38 6.1 850 Max 170 Hdy L-SWC, L-C/T 200 231/HP38 6.2 900 Max 180 1.200–1.225 L-SWC, L-C/T 200 231/HP38 6.5 950 Max 190 Hdy L-SWC, L-C/T 200 231/HP38 6.5 950 Max 190 1.200–1.225 L-SWC 200 231/HP38 6.5 923 Max 185 Lyman 452460 200 231/HP38 6.5 1035 207 1.161 RCBS 45-201-KT SWC 200 231/HP38 6.5 1035 207 1.240 LS L-SWC 200 231/HP38 6.5 1026 205 1.240 Montana LBT-RFN 200 231/HP38 6.5 953 191 Montana LBT-RFN 200 231/HP38 6.5 953 191 1.241

I like the RCBS. It has a lid to keep the dust from blowing all over. There really isn't much to say for one over another, other than the big Dillon (I have never tried the smaller Dillon) has a lock pin to keep the drum open when you empty it, but it gets in the way, for me at least, when rotating the drum. What is needed is a design that lets you easily empty to drum, rather than picking up the cases by hand. That gets tedious real fast.

I have never had a bushing move, except the powder die. If you look at it, there is a lot of weight up high, so that bushing takes more of a beating then the others. This is particularly true if you load 9x19 and don't use any case lube. I simply looked for a bushing that was tighter (possibly a slightly larger O-ring) and have had no problems in several 1000 rounds. I say, give Hornady a call for the shim, so they know that there is a recurring problem. Also, I agree with CocoBolo--when you tighten the lock ring down, it automatically tightens the bushing also. Then, the die and bushing are as one. Always have a dummy round in the die when you tighten the lock ring. This goes along with those who worry about COL exactness--have the shell plate full of cases when setting up the dies--with a bullet in the seating die. Maybe Lee has the right idea with their "lock" for their bushings.

I had no problem, but then I always fiddle with my dies any way, whether on the Forster Co-Ax, the Hdy L-N-L APs, or the Dillon 1050s--it's just me. Once I get a press set-up and going with a certain powder and bullet, I hate to change it.

From what I have seen, Dillon tend to have the most chamfer. This does affect how low the sizing goes on the case. When I come back from the range, I inspect, sort, and deprime all the cases. 30 minutes in 20/40 corn cob and the cases are a lot than I need them to be--and, no, I don't get any media stuck in the flash hole or the primer pocket. If you are having primer flow problems, you may just want to consider the safety of the rounds and the beating you might be putting your gun under.

From the OPs question, I think a little more reading of reloading manuals is needed. The bullets you bought are cast lead with a poly-kote. As such, you would use data for lead bullets only. With lead bullets, 121-125gn bullets are really the same. I do not have any action pistol loads, but here is my compiled list of loads for you: Bullet Weight Powder Weight Velocity Note Power Factor COL L-RN 124 WSF 4.0 945 Start 117 1.169 Bayou Bullet 124 WSF 4.0 953 118 1.100 Lead 124 WSF 4.2 Start 0 1.150 Bayou Bullet 124 WSF 4.2 1007 125 1.100 Bayou Bullet 124 WSF 4.4 1023 127 1.100 L-Con 121 WSF 4.6 1126 Accurate 136 L-RN 125 WSF 4.6 1070 Accurate 134 Bayou Bullet 124 WSF 4.6 1084 134 1.100 L-RN 124 WSF 4.7 1055 Max 131 1.169 Lead 124 WSF 4.7 1055 Max 131 1.150 L-RN 125 WSF 5.0 1119 Start 140 L-RN 125 WSF 5.5 1231 Max 154

I can only assume that CZ isn't chambering these guns the same as my CZ75s (not Bs). I load fairly long in the CZs. There is no greater justification for a change in COL than "it feeds better." You will note that my referenced loads were no listed as start or max. These are loads from magazines (at least one is probably a Handloader load).

Bullet Weight Powder Weight Velocity Note Power Factor COL Hdy HP-XTP 180 WST 3.9 830 Start 149 1.125 JHP 180 WST 4.0 780 Start 140 1.135 Hdy HP-XTP 180 WST 4.3 888 Max 160 1.125 JHP 180 WST 4.5 0 JHP 180 WST 5.0 900 Max 162 1.135 JHP 180 WST 5.0 970 Max 175

If you can find any 1050 for less than $1000, buy it. A total refurb. will run about $150 and you will get practically a new press. Was the press abused with an Auto-Drive? Does the seller have the "missing" parts and "saving" them for another, maybe new, 1050?

One of the biggest problems with any progressive press is the shell plate getting loose. On my 1050, I have the shell plate tight enough that it does not jump or move quickly. Put a little marine grease on shell plate to slow it down if needed. I find that 9x19, .380 Auto, and .223 Rem rims seem to get more banged up than any other calibers.

I find that I need the short tab on station 3. The full-size tab interferes with the handle. I chop off one side of a tab for station 5 and keep the tab at the extreme clockwise position to get it out of the way. I had a REAL hard time finding a pencil that would go through the bolt holes and each press had one hole that had to be expanded. However, I don't see that as any weakness for the installation, just not the nice precision that one might wish for.

How can anyone load on a 650 without a case feeder? You either have to reach back with your right hand to drop a case in where the tube would go (I have done this with a friend's new 650) or get up every 20-25 rounds to fill the tube (I tried this and didn't like it). It took about 30 minutes for my friend to decide to get the case feeder ASAP.

Does it come with ANY caliber set-up or just a bare tool head and no shell plate? Does it come with a small rifle case-feed plate? Be sure to download the manual or call Dillon for a hard copy. You may want to buy the DVD and WATCH EXACTLY what the presenter does (even more than what he says). Are you sure you want to load .223 on the 1050 instead of the 650? My 1050 doesn't seem to be all that more vertically open than my RL 1050s (which can load .223, but it is a tight fit). I see the 1050 as a high volume pistol loader.

TiteGroup is such a lousy powder (in my guns). It does behave a bit better than Clays, however. It burns HOT. It smokes. Lead+TG=more smoke. It is not very accurate with lead bullets. I have not fired any jacketed bullets in any of my .40s, so I can't really say if it works better with j-bullets. All I know is that it "sucks" with j-bullets in my 9x19 and .38 Super. It may be great in your gun. If I was going .40 Major, I would use a slower powder. If I HAD to use a fast powder, I would use AA2 or Solo 1000. FWIW, AA5 and Silhouette are far-and-away the MOST accurate powders I have found for .40, for light and heavy loads.

I have had no problems shooting lead or moly-koted bullets in any of my compensated guns. Some say they get lead build-up on the compensator. It is one of those things you will have to try out. However, for the cost of Precision Bullets, why not stock up on a LOT of jacketed bullets from Montana Gold or Precision Delta? Buy at least a case from MG for best savings--their cost/case is general close or slightly less than PDs price for 1000 (and you need to order a total of 6000 to get a small discount).

Bullet Weight Powder Weight Velocity Note Power Factor COL J-all 124 Zip 4.2 990 Accurate 123 1.169 Zero FMJ 124 Zip 4.5 1201 149