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For general 9x19 loading (not playing games), look to Silhouette and N330. AA5 is a very accurate powder and AA2 is excellent for light target loads.

Competition is very good, but Ramshot seems to only want to market it for shotguns. Zip, so far, is too much like HP38/231 and not nearly enough like N320. Silhouette is a very accurate powder in many different cartridges, and is truly SUPER in .38 Super and .40S&W. True Blue is very good for "high performance" .38 Super and 10mm Auto loads.

Excellent bullets. However, for my hard-earned dollars, I am buying only jacketed bullets from Montana Gold, Zero Bullets, or Precision Delta in .355, .356, and .357". Most cast and all the moly-kote bullets in these sizes are just too close in price NOT to take advantage of a jacketed bullet. All I am buying are JHPs currently. When market forces adjust to either raise jacketed or lower lead prices, I will probably switch back. In the mean time, I have about 10k and don't feel like that is nearly enough. Whether Precison (moly-kote) or MG, buy in bulk--3k or more per order.

You don't need a caliper. Again, did you read "ABCs of Reloading" and another manual? What did they say to do? I'll bet a caliper was never mentioned. Use a factory round and turn the crimp down until it just contacts the factory round. This will give you the same crimp that the factory determined was best for "all" guns of that caliber Or, Look at the case mouth and SEE if there is still a flare/bell remaining Or, Look at the case mouth and SEE if there is a shiny ring around it from the crimp Or, Feel along the bullet ogive to the case mouth. There should be a relatively smooth transition and your finger should not feel the case mouth flare Or, Remove your barrel and drop in the round. Does it go "CLUNK" and the case head is flush or just below where the barrel contacts the breech? Turn the barrel over. Does the round fall into your hand? If so, things are good to go. Or, mark the bullet ogive and around the case mouth with a Magic Marker. Drop into barrel and rotate back-and-forth. Scraps will show if the flare/bell is rubbing against the chamber.

Congratulations. How can I get Brian to give me one for Christmas? I just got my new Dillon 650 (from Brian) and got it together. This is my first time loading. Have you read a couple of manuals? I am starting with 147g plated Montana Gold's, Winchester small pistol primers, and a pound of titegroup. Montana Gold does not make cheap plated bullets. You have premium jacketed bullets and a very good price. My starting load is 3.2 gr titegroup. I read on one of the posts here where they were using 1.125 OAL and I just ran off 30 rounds and wanted to verify the OAL. To verify the COL, make up 2 inert (no powder or primer) rounds and cycle them in your gun. For most efficiency, have just the barrel at the bench while you set up your dies and establish what COL is best for YOUR pistol while you make up the two dummy rounds. I also purchased a chronograph and will try to measure velocity tomorrow, as I can't shhot at my house. I will be shooting these in a Springfield XDM 5.25 9mm. I would like to try some N320 but can't find it locally so I will order some after I finish up the titegroup. Go to Powder Valley for powder and primers. Make a large enough order to cover the hazmat or you will be better asking your local gun store/reloading supply store to order some for you. I don't like TiteGroup (it does not give decent accuracy in any of my guns). For a fast powder that is accurate, I like AA2 for minor and 3N37 or N350 for major. YMMV.

What is a bullet "head?" Is the bullet separating? Can you see rifling marks on the bullet part that was stuck in the barrel? Dropping an inert round in the barrel to determine appropriate COL has worked for at least 60+ years. The round should drop in the barrel and the case head should be flush to just below where the breech will contact the barrel. Then, the inert round should just fall out of the barrel when the barrel in inverted. Does the bullet have a very round nose (rather than a more typical parabolic-curve ogive)? If the bullet is jammed in the lede/rifling, then your COL is too long. If the bullet isn't jammed in the lede/rifling, then you probably have not removed enough of the case mouth flare/bell. If you didn't start with enough case mouth flare/bell, you could have scrapped some lead off the bullet and it is jammed around the case mouth. Look at your round's profile and be sure that the flare is gone and there is no lead sort of "packed" around the case mouth. If your round, at 1.100", is jammed in the lede/rifling, then your chamber is too tight and you should contact LW. In all my 9x19s, a L-RN is generally good to go at 1.150". I generally have a COL of 1.080" for L-RNFP bullets.

1) on the Hornady L-N-L and the Dillon 1050, the most I have ever needed with a Lee lock-ring was to remove the nut, remove the o-ring, and re-install the lock ring upside down. 2) don't bother reading the Dillon manual. If it is like the 1050 manual, it will only confuse you. Everyone needs to write a manual that first goes step-by-step to set-up and get the equipment running properly, then a section describing each individual section and how to keep it functioning and trouble-shooting. I simply couldn't read the 1050 manual and bought the DVD. 3) It is amazing that perfectly functional tools, particularly when significantly less expensive, are condemned for not meeting some OCD "requirement" that some operator thinks should be met. Basic engineering requirements aren't enough, they want things to "look" right so their need for total control/satisfaction is met, and they shouldn't have to spend a fortune for it. God forbid that there is any flaw in the paint of their press!

I sort, inspect, and deprime prior to case cleaning. All I use is 20/40 corn. Never had any pack in the primer pocket or lodge in the flash hole. Tumbling for 30 minutes will remove any powder in the primer pocket, but not the black ash/stain. Tumbling for longer does not get the cases any "cleaner" or shinier.

The use of a non-Dillon sizing die fixes the spent primer retention issue. When the primer slide goes all the way back, there needs to be a "rubber" tube on the roll pin at the rear. It is VERY easy to mangle the plastic primer tip on the primer tube by tightening the nut too much. Too many people feel that all nuts need to very tight and the smash the plastic tip. Some people have needed to put a very light bevel on the primer cup on the slider so the primer drops in. Some sliders seem to be just a little too small for some of the primers at the high end of the range for primer cup diameter. As far as I know, Dillon still offers a 1050 cleaning/refurbishment service for about $100. Well worth it.

If the powder was contaminated, you should have unburned powder in the action and the barrel. If the primer was at fault, you would notice a definite lag in ignition. The other unlikely cause would be a contaminant in only that particular case. With near 100% certainty, you missed a no powder/light charge case. This is why inspection and the use of an RCBS Lock-Out die is recommended. The scary thing about squibs is NOT noticing and firing the next round. S1k should be easily visibly in the case.

I believe the load you found was the max load, with a note to reduce all loads by 10% for a starting load. I have found AA2 to be about the most accurate powder in all my .45s. Here is the load data I have for 200gn lead and AA5: .45 ACP Bullet Weight Powder Weight Velocity Note Power Factor COL L-RN, L-SWC 200 AA5 5.8 Start 0 L-SWC: Target 200 AA5 6.3 720 Start/Accurate 144 L-SWC 200 AA5 6.4 686 Start 137 L-SWC, L-RN 200 AA5 7.0 818 Max/Accurate 164 L-SWC 200 AA5 7.0 697 Start 139 L-SWC 200 AA5 7.7 0 1.270 SWC 200 AA5 7.8 902 Start 180 1.190 L-SWC 200 AA5 8.0 970 Max 194 L-SWC 200 AA5 8.5 927 Max 185 L-SWC, L-RN 200 AA5 8.5 968 194 SWC 200 AA5 8.7 1025 Max 205 1.190-1.275 Bullet Designation Nominal Bullet Weight Actual Bullet Weight Bullet Type Powder Powder Weight Primer COL Gun Accuracy National Bullet Co. 200 193 L-SWCBB AA5 6.0 WLP 1.248 Colt GC w/PDP5 3.000 National Bullet Co. 200 193 L-SWCBB AA5 6.5 WLP 1.254 Colt GC w/PDP5 2.250 National Bullet Co. 200 193 L-SWCBB AA5 6.5 WLP 1.254 Colt GC Commander 3.531 National Bullet Co. 200 193 L-SWCBB AA5 7.0 WLP 1.252 Colt GC w/PDP5 1.000 National Bullet Co. 200 193 L-SWCBB AA5 7.0 WLP 1.252 Springfield w/Fire Point 2.313 Penn 45/200 SWC 200 201 L-SWCBB AA5 5.7 WLP Colt GC w/PDP5 2.375 Penn 45/200 SWC 200 201 L-SWCBB AA5 5.7 WLP Springfield w/Fire Point 4.875 Penn 45/200 SWC 200 201 L-SWCBB AA5 6.2 WLP Springfield w/Fire Point 2.219 Penn 45/200 SWC 200 201 L-SWCBB AA5 6.2 WLP Colt GC w/PDP5 2.250 Penn 45/200 SWC 200 201 L-SWCBB AA5 6.7 WLP Colt GC w/PDP5 1.875 Penn 45/200 SWC 200 201 L-SWCBB AA5 6.7 WLP Colt GC w/PDP5 2.531 Precision 45-200-SWC 200 199 L-SWC "Black Bullet" AA5 6.2 WLP Colt GC w/PDP5 1.938 Precision 45-200-SWC 200 199 L-SWC "Black Bullet" AA5 6.2 WLP Colt GC w/PDP5 3.250 Precision 45-200-SWC 200 199 L-SWC "Black Bullet" AA5 6.5 WLP Colt GC w/PDP5 4.375 Precision 45-200-SWC 200 199 L-SWC "Black Bullet" AA5 6.5 WLP Colt GC w/PDP5 3.125 Precision 45-200-SWC 200 199 L-SWC "Black Bullet" AA5 6.8 WLP Colt GC w/PDP5 1.938 Precision 45-200-SWC 200 199 L-SWC "Black Bullet" AA5 6.8 WLP Colt GC w/PDP5 2.719

A Short Diatribe: I see all loading trends in IDPA/IPSC/etc. to be disposable-case driven. It is too difficult and time consuming to have the competitors pick up their brass, so all brass must be cheap enough to be "disposable." 9x19 and .40 cases are relatively inexpensive. You shoot 9x19 major and leave the cheap cases behind. Of course, some poor range rat is going to pick up the cases and try them for 9x19 regular and possibly have a case failure. To shoot a "safe and sane" cartridge like the .38 Super or 10mm Auto would involve using much more expensive brass that the competitor would NOT want to leave behind--but must, except maybe at the local level. Thus, competition is being driven to use the wrong tool and this is leading to down-grading the major PF to make the poor tool work. No action pistol shooter really sees any thing practical in the loads being shot--it is all gamemanship. Even the stock classes are NOT shooting loads recommended by any loading company, except for minor (and those are too light to be "practical"). Personally, I would prefer the elimination of minor and have two main classes: a class for PF of 150 minimum (.38 and up) possibly for all "stock" gun classes and PF of 175 minimum (.40 and up) for all tricked-out "open" gun classes. This would eliminate trying to push major with a cartridge that is NOT capable of shooting major in any "stock" gun. There are simply too many KBs with the current rules. If youth/women need a lighter PF, then let them work to a 135 PF in .38 and up, in their own sub-division.

What is the problem with lead and comps? I have been shooting only lead in all my compensated guns for the last 25 years and have never seen any build up of lead on the comp. Does it hide at the bottom of the comp? Does it supposedly plate around the bullet holes in the comp? Really, do we have pictures of this lead build-up?

I'm sorry. I was responding to the use of the Hornady Powder Measure and not the Bullet Feed. The bullet feed has a spring for a tube so you can site the collator where it will fit. I believe there are some YouTube vids showing it being used.

Given the number of different cartridges, I would buy a Hornady L-N-L. Caliber conversions are inexpensive and very quick. If you get a 650XL, get the case feeder. I consider a 4-station, non-auto-indexing press to be a crippled press and I wouldn't buy one. It is too limited compared to a 5-station press. The 550 is attractive to those with control issues who must control every aspect of their lives. If you only want 1 press for the rest of your life, and are willing to buy a case feeder and pay through the nose for cartridge conversions and spend about 10-15 minutes making the switch-over, then get a 650. The "problem" with Hornady has been the lack of continued support for older presses. They support until they are out of parts and then your stuck. Dillon has been much better at continued support for older presses, but I wonder how long they will be able to do so. OF course, if you want one press for the rest of your life, you really need a press with few or no moving parts and might want a single-stage or turret.

Some real inner ballistics for load develop. There are already lots of external ballistics software, some built into the sight.

I can stand for about 5 minutes, max., before my back starts to cramp.

For minor, I prefer AA2 and Solo 1000. AA5 and Silhouette are better for hotter loads. Have not tried N320.

On the 1050, the Dillon powder measure can get in the way. Sometimes I just want to put the powder measure in station 6 so everything clears the primer tube. Oh, to have one additional station after the powder die!!! I don't exactly remember now, so I am probably wrong, but I think I mounted the Hornady backwards so the linkage was on the left side making room from the Primer tube.

One of the best bullets I have found for 9x19, 9x21, and 38 Super is the Zero 121gn 0.356" JHP. It has a RN ogive. Excellent bullet. Feeds in everything. So good, they priced it out of reach of my budget. I will pay the small price difference for JHPs as they always seem to be more accurate than FMJ-RN bullets. I just wish that Montana Gold offered JHPs and FMJ-FPs in 0.356". For jacketed bullets, if you only need 1000, order from Precision Delta. If you need more than 2000, order a case or two from Montana Gold. I shoot lots of 0.357" lead bullets in 9x19, etc.

I REALLY think you should try as-cast bullets and tumble-lube first before sizing your bullets. Sizing does not make a more accurate bullet. The only reason I would run my Lubrisizer, which I haven't since maybe 1982?, would be to use a lube like Carnaube Red of BAC from White Label. Even then, I always used a sizing die the same diameter as the cast bullet or 0.001" larger. As-cast always was as accurate or more accurate than the bullets I sized down on the LubriSizer. Just recommend starting simply and complicate things as and if you need to.

I did all my load testing using an RL1050. A great gun deserves a great press. I shot Winchester white box that J&G Sales had about 4-5 years ago. Previously (about 10 years ago), I shot a cheap off-brand (Wolf or some such) and I believe Remington. That was when I decided that matching accuracy against any factory load would take some real time and a lot of testing. The gun was never a problem. You can get 2000 Remington Match Bullets 38 Caliber (358 Diameter) 148 Grain Lead Hollow Base Wadcutter from MidwayUSA for $120.99--that is $60.50/1000. Precision Delta with the match lube is $74/1000. Both are darn inexpensive for what you are getting. Now, if I could just find someone with the Remington bullets with free shipping.

I love the M52. I gave one each to my son and daughter. Everyone should have at least one. Reloading: Get the SDB only if that is all the press you can see ever needing. I prefer a minimum of 5 stations and really like the Hornady L-N-L. The only presses that might be better are the 650XL WITH case feeder or the Super 1050. If your gun is as temperamental as the three I have, you will have a long way to go to load any rounds as accurate as the factory ammunition. I tested every bullet I could find, every combination of dies, powder and charge weight, and every brand of cases. After about a year of playing with all the variables, I settled on the following: RP brass (thinnest walls and the least likely to swage the bullet down)--ordered 1000 after I had worked with every other brand of brass. Station 1: empty, no sizing (I decap before tumbling). This is where you can use a Lee FCD, without the crimp innards, to assure yourself that your brass will chamber. The loads you will be firing will not expand the cases much, so you only need to do this at the beginning. My loads do not fit in most revolver cylinders, but the force of the slide chambers them just fine. Station 2: RCBS expander die Station 3: Dillon powder measure with .38 powder funnel (the Hornady measure works just as well or better, but that powder measure went to my son when my wife suggested I give my Hornady to my son) Station 4: Lee seating die with custom seating stem or Hornady seating die Station 5: Redding Profile Crimp Die or Lee FCD You REALLY want an expander die that expands the case to within 0.001" of the bullet diameter the full length that the bullet will be seated. I found my OLD RCBS expander die was the only one that expanded far enough down the case. A Lyman M-die with a longer expanding section might be as good or better, but that would be a custom made expander. Whatever crimp die you use, use a factory round to establish the amount of crimp. I assume they have done the work and I am just taking advantage of their findings. The Redding Profile was a surprise with just how perfect the crimp was and how much group sizes shrunk with it. I was very surprised that the Lee FCD was close to being just as good. All I cared about was accuracy at 25 yards, so I never worried about dirty guns or cases or smoke or anything else. The Remington bullets were leaps ahead of any other bullet for accuracy and, as I said, they are so cheap. They come packaged in a cardboard box. No liner or anything. Just all these bullets coated with what looks and feels like grease with graphite. Found that you could actually wipe off some of the lube with no ill effects, though I never made that a part of my loading regimen.

I shoot as-cast and tumble-lubed. I would stick with L-SWCs if you gun handles them. Never got very results with L-RN. This won't work for action shooting, but Lee's 145gn SWC is very accurate in my .40s. You could look at SAECO's 4-cavity #047 200gn L-TC mold. One thing about action shooting, about all you need from a cast bullet is for the base to be completely filled out. A whole lot of the fussiness one goes through for 25yd and 50yd Bullseye-type shooting is of no consequence in action shooting.

9mm is no harder to cast than .45. I use almost pure WW with just a little solder if the mold isn't filling out nicely. You REALLY have to slug your barrel and determine what the groove diameter is. Groove diameters can range from 0.355 to 0.362 I shot as-cast and tumble-lubed. I prefer 115gn or 125gn L-SWCs. You may prefer L-RN Exactly what part of casting for a 9mm has you concerned?